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Holy fuck Falbere you are funny as fuck sometimes. Yes, they are the same fuckin' thing. "but n1 you retard it's a componentized version of--" Yes, finish that sentence. Windows XP.

They're the same fuckin' thing. Carry on, then.

Yeah I think we've met

but n1 you retard it's a componentized version of windows x-
n-nani!
O-ok I am s-sorry

This post has been edited by Falbere on Jul 13 2017, 06:06 AM

I'm bad at explaining so here is a video of me using my xbox360 controller instead. (Sorry for the bad webcam quality)

my control mappings are
LT (brake)
RT (accel)
Left Analog (steering)
Shift up ( X )
Shift down ( A )

you would actually understand how the game works if you have played the arcade one once. but reading what you said. I can only say it is really different from Ver 3.

in this game BC (the term some people use to describe brake-tap and then accel) super important.

I don't know about other courses but on Akina it is easier to get gold drifts by feint steering before the corner. rather than turning from 0 degrees angle.

normally you'd do this in a short 1 second

-feint turn + release accel
-full turn and brake-tap then accel at the same time-
-keep the wheel fully turned until you reach the right section in the corner to slowly retract it to 0 degrees-

nailing down the timing right in each step is IMPORTANT
time some steps wrongly and you either fly straight into the wall or scrape the guardrail on the way out.

the key is to try getting gold drift while minimizing speed loss. and of course avoid scrapping the walls


This post has been edited by jon360x on Jul 13 2017, 06:40 AM

Looks like I got rekt lol. You were right Falbere.

Thanks for the vid Jon. I'll keep practicing more

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

I fucking finally got the game to run! I have to say Im impressed with how smooth it is to use a controller.

I have moved on to a wheel now but something really weird was happening when I was using the controller.

Basically whenever I hit 4th gear my power drops a lot. I can't even reach 5th gear cos my car doesn't have the power to reach those speeds. Prior to 4th gear, the acceleration and power were he same as a full tune car.

Weird thing is, when i switched to the wheel, everything was fine. I'm no longer seeing the power loss after 4th gear despite the fact that I have made zero changes or editing to the car profiles after the switch.

For whatever reason my controller can't accel fully and I know it works fine.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 14 2017, 07:02 AM

Both that problem and the problem Falbere was having are echoes of the issues I had playing Need for Speed with the Xbox 360 controller--which was a result of having the game not interpret the X360's single-axis triggers correctly. You end up with half the potential range on each trigger (so, essentially, an accelerator and brake that only go halfway), and they're linked so that you can't use both at the same time correctly.

Sounds like Teknoparrot (or the controller driver) is doing the same thing.

for me, in 0.71, they added a specific "xinput" option in the controls menu. it solved all my previous controller issues.

on an unrelated note
link removed
somebody need to teach me how to play the game. i can't believe i am so bad

This post has been edited by Falbere on Nov 26 2017, 09:50 AM

Ah last time I tried the controller I was using 0.7. I'm guessing that probable has been fixed in 0.71 it seems, which is good to hear.

Really good job by the developers for this - and making D6 emulation possible in the first place.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 14 2017, 09:36 AM

I'm no pro at this game, but is that 86 really at full spec? Because any 5 gear car at Akina when full speced will shift into 5th gear at 144 km/h but you are at 5th by 130 km/h already. That's going to cost you a lot of time on Akina due to the long straights.

You are turning the wheel too much, considering the slow speeds. I never owned a proper racing wheel, but you probably need to increase the steering resistance to suit you. I don't know how the arcade cab was, but try setting the wheel so that it turns 90° either way and increase the freedom of rotation as you get more comfortable. If you find the 86 to oversteer too much, try the EK9 or the R32. The EK9 loses less speed when you turn the wheel compared to FR's and 4WDs, but the tradeoff is you will have a hard time getting the car to drift like a FR. But the car can still maintain a high speed at a low drift angle so no worries there.

The way I corner right now is to tap the brake quickly and step on the gas (This is a BC, I think) as I turn the car into the corner to get it sideways. Then, I shift down to the right gear and accelerate out of the corner using very minute countersteer. That will lead you to a 3'12''xxx on Akina easily if you don't hit any walls. Similarly, I get a 2'33'' on Akagi, a 2'57" on Tsukuba, a 3'02" on Iro and a 2'39" on Myogi. My controllers's analogue sticks have a huge deadzone so I think that's the best I can do till I upgrade to a better one.

Or do what Jon does since you can steer and use the pedals with more precision. You can be way more faster that way. Hope I helped a little.

@ID6 pros: Can you take a look at this video?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c5Z1hPELqHM

On what basis is a gold drift decided? Is it the speed or the angle? This guy steers so little (like on the first left hairpin) yet he gets a gold drift. I have to get crazy angles to get the Drift indicator flashing in gold. How do you handle tracks like Happo and Tsuchisaka?

@Falbere

Actually Gunman is onto something. but Falbere controls are quite fine. and it does sound like he's flooring it based on the sound. Its his max speed shifting point between the gears.

your 5th gear shifting point is at 130. which is suppose to be from 3 to 4th gear

normally max speeds at 3rd gear is 129. 4th to 5th gear at 145

Something is wrong with your file settings maybe?

even on stock it doesn't shift up to 5th at 130.

I've tested to see if a half depressed pedal changes the max speed shifting point. Nope. still goes at 129 max at 3rd gear

It looks like your tachometer is showing 13k but at the start of first gear you got up to 12k above. Its like your 13k meter is actually a 8k meter just visually wrong. showing you a wrong red zone. The real 13k meter wont let you rev past 12k. And your ae86 sounds like an 8k meter. its not as high pitch as mine was in my video
Its just like how takumi is losing power right after shifting from the red zone because of a wrong tachometer xD LOL

Btw since most logitech wheels have a 900 degree turning range. and from falbere's video it does seem to lock at where the arcade wheel does. I guess its possible to see your max wheel turn range?

here is a comparison with your rev point with mine

Image size reduced, original size: 771 x 346. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

This post has been edited by jon360x on Jul 14 2017, 12:08 PM

Maybe he needs to rev all the way to 13,000 RPM for each gear? My 86 redlines at 11,500 RPM.

BTW, how do you handle Nagao and Happiness?

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Yeah he needs to max it out because its actually an 8k rev point meter


Im not really good with Nagao cant really advise you on that course.

"Happiness"?

wat.

Lol autocorrect at its​ finest

I meant Happogahara, where Takumi raced the pro racer

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Try to look for D6 videos on youtube

might help

happogara

nagao

lol~ something is definitely wrong with your 86 setting~ Mine dont rev pass 12k rpm and one more thing~ i thought rev limit for 4th gear is 14x~ why are you in 5th gear on 130 @@?


cornering wise i think we are both the same~ i can only do silver ranking time on a wheel~ still figuring out the best steering rotation degree~ still raping the wall by the moment~

I'm going to just reset all my files to default, in case something is wrong somewhere.

Man it's been ages since I played D6 (prior to the emulation), but I'll try.

I don't know how gold drifrs decided but I do "feel" them. Best I can say is that a combination of angle and super fast timing of execution. Basically you need to turn your wheel really really fast while doing BC (which is release accel, tap brake, and press accel again - under half a second).

Also I think wider angles also make the gold drift longer if memory serves.

Car speed isn't much of a factor I think, I can do them even in low speeds although prefably you want to do them at high speeds without hitting the wall.

As for Nagao, I used to be good at it in D6 but having played D7 and D8 afterwards kind made me forget how to play it in D6 because he gameplay of those two games are radically different.

But I think the best advice I can give is that countersteering is massively important to stabilize yourself after gold drifts in Nagao. But yes like pretty much other courses, even in Nagao you need to go for as many gold drifts as possible.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 14 2017, 08:34 PM

Is it possible to link drifts like they do in D1GP? Like I am drifting to left but if I step off the gas pedal turn to the right, the car changes direction?

Thanks for the help, I will try again once i had fixed the config files which i think i messed up modifying.

Edit:

Issue had been resolved, thanks everybody!

Edit2: Interesting detail had been found.
When the real racing engine is used, the car's license plate changed to a series 3 plate.

Image size reduced, original size: 831 x 298. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

this possibly implies that the racing engine is above 2000cc in displacement, as 5 series plates were issued to cars below 2000cc while 3 series is issued to cars above 2000cc.

This post has been edited by Falbere on Jul 15 2017, 03:36 AM

Nice find.

In the same info_csv folder, there is also a DAIHATSU_car_info.txt. But it is blank, so it seems the manufacturer was scrapped during development.

If you switch the car IDs in <manufacturer>_car_info.txt, the cars also switch even if the game shows the same model. Like if I swap the ID's for the R32 and the R35, the R32 behaves just like the R35 (it gets 6 gears) even if it looks like a regular R32.

Image size reduced, original size: 2560 x 1080. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

But if an in game character happens to use the R32 in this example (like Nakazato), he will use an actual R35 GT-R.

Image size reduced, original size: 2560 x 1080. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Someone travelled to the future, eh?

If you set the number at the end of a line to 8 in <manufacturer>_car_info.txt, and try to select said car, it will use the model and textures of the next car.

Still need to figure out how to actually enable the Prius, FT86 and the R35 though. Someone had uploaded the modded files to MediaFire, but it has been taken down. If anyone has those files can you please upload them again?

This post has been edited by GoodOldGunman on Jul 15 2017, 12:29 AM

aye
download link
credits go to Uchi#5371 from TeknoGods discord and WhiteCharisma

Edit: you only need to add the lines of the (car manufacturer)_car_info.txt, the rest of the files is to unlock all colors and full spec

This post has been edited by Falbere on Jul 15 2017, 12:09 AM

All this talk of the racing engine got me thinking.

How do you get the real "full tune" versions of other cars anyways? Will changing the values of the manufacturer.txt to 6 be enough?

Recently I just got the racing engine for my AE86T by modifying the parameter file to the racing engine number and experienced a massive speed boost, around 8-10 seconds on Akina DH. Prior to that I had a "full tune" AE86T (basically going to Toyota.txt and then set 6 to the AE86T) but it isn't nearly as fast.

Granted this "full tuned" AE86T doesn't have a supercharger/turbo/engine, it's just had setting to 6. I played enough D6 and other cross testing AE86T final parts in various IDAS games to know it isn't a placebo effect. The acceleration and speed effect is too huge for it.

In the normal version of D6, there isn't supposed to be a huge difference between supercharger, turbocharger and racing engine versions of the AE86T. I know because I experimented with it in the arcades back in the day and so did many others.

So does that mean to get the real full time version of other cars, you will also have to equip their "final" parts individually onto their parameter txt files?

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 15 2017, 12:07 AM

The only relevance this could possibly have is that it proves you've still got the hacking wrong. If the game really does use correct plates based on engine displacement, then this is the wrong engine, plain and simple. It should be 55, just like it is in-series.

Lo and behold, googling for actual videos of the arcade cab with someone using Takumi's 86 shows you this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEP91YgqdL0

So I'd say ya dun gouf'd.

[QUOTE=Falbere,32 minutes, 41 seconds ago] aye
download link
credits go to Uchi#5371 from TeknoGods discord and WhiteCharisma

Edit: you only need to add the lines of the (car manufacturer)_car_info.txt, the rest of the files is to unlock all colors and full spec [/QUOTE]
Thanks a lot, really appreciate it.

[QUOTE = SonicSP]So does that mean to get the real full time version of other cars, you will also have to equip their "final" parts individually onto their parameter txt files?[/QUOTE]

Changing the number to six doesn't give us the true fullspec. Someone earlier said we need to change more parameters and he seems to be right. Look at this video's description.

[QUOTE]
Tuning List
機械式LSD
タワーバー
レーシングブレーキパッド
アーシング
エアクリーナー
軽量フライホイール
強化ダクト
メッシュホース
フロントラダーバー
レーシングプラグ
強化クラッチ
高性能サスペンション
スポーツ触媒
スポーツ触媒所持
ハイリフトカムシャフト
ドライバッテリー
オイルクーラー
リアラダーバー
軽量化（LV１）
強化スタビライザー
ポート研磨
ROM書き換え
ロールバー
EXマニホールド
サブコンピューター
強化サスアーム
ビッグキャリパー
軽量化（LV２）
イグニッションコイル
ボアアップ
大容量ラジエター
フルコンピューター
レーシングキャブレター
大口径ブレーキローター
スポット増し
パワーSPチューン[/QUOTE]

He has added a limited slip differential and a modified ECU. Can someone understand what the others mean and how to add them?

This post has been edited by GoodOldGunman on Jul 15 2017, 12:45 AM

I am using RIT_ninja's racing engine value.

One possible explanation that I have is that since we are all using GUEST accounts, the license plate is generated based on the modded full-spec car, while the guy playing on the arcade cab had the car upgraded to full-spec through the normal card saving process, which might've meant that the license plate is generated when the car had the normal engine. It is possible that the game uses 5 series plates for racing engine, because the developers might not actually care what displacement the car is.

Or I am doing something wrong again, it could happen /shrug.

Or the license plate is completely random and it is just pure coincidence that a "3" came out of nowhere, although I do not think this is the case.