Close Topic Options

Hello,

Here's my 06' Subaru track car.

*********************************

Suspension:
Nasa / FIA roll cage
BC Racing BR Coilovers
BC Racing rear camber plates
Cobb Rear Sway Bar
Whiteline Anti-roll kit
Whiteline Ball joint
Whiteline Tie rods
Whiteline Trailing arms
Whiteline Control arms
Whiteline Front end links
Whiteline Rear end links

Brakes/Wheels/Tires:
DBA T-slot s
Stop Tech stainless steel lines
Brembo BBK
Reybestos ST47 brake pads
Amsoil racing brake fluid
Enkei RPF-1's - 18x9.5 +38
GforceR1 Slicks 245/45/18


Engine:
Ziptie Dynowerks tune
Cosworth Short block
Manley H-Beams
Cosworth Pistons
VF39 Turbo PnP
Tomei 3" turbo inlet
Cobb Short Ram Intake
Cobb down pipe
Cobb up pipe PnP
Invidia N1 mid-pipe
Invidia N1 exhaust
MAP head studs
TGV Deletes
AEM Fuel pressure Regulator (FPR)
Cobb boost Solenoid
Grimmspeed Cross pipe
STI TMIC

Couple of pictures that I have so you can get an idea of how she looks like and what not. These pictures are pretty old, when I have time available i'll post new pictures.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 717 x 717. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 768 x 1024. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 768. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 960 x 960. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 768 x 1024. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 768. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 768 x 1024. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Had to change my axles for the next track day event.

Image size reduced, original size: 954 x 954. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 768 x 1024. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 768 x 1024. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 1024 x 576. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 717 x 960. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 960 x 640. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: 900 x 600. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Thanks everyone and hope you enjoy!

This post has been edited by RedsunsF1 on Nov 29 2019, 11:28 PM

Cool-ass car man.

Is that Crystal Gray or Steel Gray. Hard to tell sometimes...

Judging by all those bushings and suspension mods, the car appears to be properly dialed in. Continue doing good work!

Can you just actually put the pictures in hyperlinks so they just show up without having to click through all 20 of them?

Cool project though.

Yes, sorry about that. This forum is a little different to the ones I am on and when I get home from school i'll have more time to mess around with this and try to have it all fixed.

This post has been edited by FFstrife on Nov 13 2012, 06:56 PM

Very nice! Let me know if you ever venture south for some track days.

Nice job man - looks like those tires will be fun in the summer

btw



This post has been edited by backalleyracer on Nov 14 2012, 01:54 AM

This was how it looked when I bought it so I never really had an option. It was riding on Perrin springs for that winter and when spring arrived this year I installed the coilovers and new wheels (Glad I got rid of those ugly drag dr11 wheels Lol). It not being driven any more since it will become a track car, I have a lexus for a DD now.

This post has been edited by FFstrife on Nov 14 2012, 08:04 AM

It looks like CGM, the color I'd have wanted if I could've picked up a new 2005 model.

Sorry for the delay, Its a CGM

(USER WAS VERBALLY WARNED FOR THIS POST)
  - Details: Verbal warning has been issued to this post by kyonpalm on Nov 14 2012, 03:54 PM.
  - Reasons: All-emoticon post.

This is win. I've always fiended the eagle eye Impreza. Definitely following this, by the way, we got the same brakes!

Anyways, sexy ass track car man.

Thanks man, I really like these 4/2 pot calipers they are really good. I hopefully will be upgrading to Stop Tech ST40's in the near future only will be upgrading my fronts.

This post has been edited by FFstrife on Nov 29 2012, 12:48 PM

If you haven't even stripped the interior and installed a bucket seat and harnesses, it's not a track car.

The FIRST mods you should always do when want to drive on the track are a seat, harnesses, and steering wheel (with appropriate spacer if necessary). Everything else can come afterwards. It's important to have oil and water temperature gauges, and ideally you want a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge too. For hard use an oil cooler is a must, especially on turbo cars.

Upgrading the brakes (besides pads and hoses) before you've so much as upgraded the engine significantly past stock STi power is a huge waste of time and money.

Also, a shift knob and shifter mods, and BOVs don't count as performance mods. Neither does changing the tail lights. And honestly, no one cares that you have a seatbelt cover. Point is, listing individual mods is a waste of time. The only thing that matter is a few major specs.

FWIW, an upgraded rear (and front, ideally) LSD would go a long way... it's not really a true track car until it has a mechanical LSD.

This post has been edited by Banken on Dec 4 2012, 06:34 AM

Thanks for your point of view. I understand some of the items listed above have no modification purpose I just put it on the list because I can . All I want to say is "Work and progress" I cannot just go and nor do I have the money to make a track car in 2 days and expect me to have a list of mods and what not, again (work and progress) I already have started stripping it down to lose weight and have started doing purchases for the car such as Racing seat, steering wheel, Defi gauges, Mocal oil cooler/power steering, and Mishimoto radiator etc. I honestly careless for what people think about my car because in the end i'm the one putting my time and money to enjoy her. It's slowly getting to where I want it to be at but surely will be becoming my track car

This post has been edited by FFstrife on Dec 4 2012, 10:44 AM

Enkei RPF1s are my favorite wheels BTW

Nice, there good wheels. Strong and very light weight.

Oh shit, Johnny Tapia is a Sube fan??



"He shoot himself, mother..."

Bad Boys 4 Life.

This is definitely some of my inspiration for me right now to get a track car. Unfortunately, it'll take forever though.

Oh and I have a question Banken, since you seem to know a lot about track racing, does a steering wheel have to be an aftermarket one or one that just have at least an airbag? I would love to have the airbag to function work regardless if I get a bucket seat with the harness...

It is not required to have an aftermarket steering wheel you can stay with OEM with the airbag. Reason why you see people going with after market is to get more grip when wearing gloves and they feel more comfortable with size/feel compared the the stock one.

This post has been edited by FC_spec on Dec 19 2012, 10:16 AM

I feel like Mitsubishi got that one right, contracting out to Momo (More recently, at least. I don't remember who they had make the earlier ones).

The primary reason to get an aftermarket wheel IMO is because you can use spacers or a deep-dish cone to adjust your driving position to fit your arm length and leg length. Most Japanese sports cars have the steering WAY too far away for me because I have long legs and short arms. They were designed for people with short legs who are around 5'7" on average.

The second reason is because you can choose a different size and shape (D-shape for more legroom). The FD3S (and base trims of the FC3S) doesn't have a tilting steering column and has very limited leg room, which is one reason that D-shape wheels seem to be popular with FD drivers.

The third reason is because you can change the material of the wheel (I prefer suede because my hands sweat like mad) and pick spokes one that fits your hands. Also, leather feels better than vinyl...

The fourth reason is because airbags on a track car are a bad idea IMO. You don't want an explosive going off in your face if you bump someone accidentally or you hit something... Even if you disable the bag, it's still a bomb strapped in front of your chest.

The fifth reason is because stock steering wheels usually look lame, whereas (a few) aftermarket steering wheels look awesome. Of course, if it's not a Momo racing model (most of their street wheels are rice), a Nardi, or a Sparco, it probably looks dumb...


For that matter, a heavier shift knob can also improve shifting feel, and a bigger (wider) gas pedal makes heel and toe shifting easier. The brake pedal and clutch do not actually matter.

Proper driving shoes help, too.

Also, 10 and 2 is bullshit. It's 9 and 3 or nothing at all.

who's john tapia?

Very well said
I wouldn't want an airbag blowing up in my face either if I were to crash(knock on wood) I think with my race seat/harness i'll be properly safe. Thanks for jotting it all down, i learned a thing or 2

Since I am a short guy (5'4") my problem was the after market seat. When you sit in a bucket seat you drop a lot compared to a stock seat and I was barely able to see over the steering wheel an reach the pedals. ( I needed a booster seat lol)
I sat in different seats in different cars to see what I would need to do once I get my own seat. It looks like I will be needing to pick up these rails to have the seat raised http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Sparco-004...ack-Competition

I might have to move the seat rails from where they go a further up and have them welded onto the floor so I can reach the pedals. This all will be a pain in the ass to have done but i got to do it haha

This post has been edited by FC_spec on Dec 20 2012, 07:41 AM

You shouldn't have problems at 5'4"... Being shorter gives you more room to work with. At 5'11" I absolutely have to have a bucket seat for extra headroom. Especially with a helmet on. So I have to put the seat to the floor and use a huge spacer so I can keep my brake leg reasonably straight. The clutch becomes an issue though...

Even if you can't raise a fixed steering column, you can lower it with washers on the
mounting bolts. The more you know. A smaller steering wheel gives you more response at the trade off of heavier steering and sometimes they block the gauges if you are tall.

BTW, you can adjust the pedals a little bit! Just make sure to do it right or the brakes will drag, or you will ruin your clutch.

This post has been edited by Banken on Dec 23 2012, 12:47 AM

Damn thanks for the helpful in-depth tip Banken!
Especially about the steering wheel diameters, something that I've never really thought of.

This post has been edited by VileFCboy on Dec 23 2012, 09:04 PM