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|Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Automotive Discussion > The SpazEvo IX|
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 13 2014, 09:33 PM|
| Alright, so as many of you probably have noticed, I picked up an Evo IX a week ago.
I'll start with chassis history, which is actually interesting!
I am the 4th owner. The car was a southern car up until March of last year, and is basically free of notable rust as a result. It has only seen salt for the past month while the 3rd owner was driving it to ensure no issues and then the few times I drove it.
The car was stock with some basic bolt-ons when the 2nd owner, a friend of mine, purchased the car. He was in the Army at the time, and was stationed at various bases in Alabama, Georgia, and Florida when he wasn't deployed. When his time was up, he applied for and got a contractor job, and went overseas again. During that period of time, he had the car, which was then further from stock, sent to Buschur Racing. his instructions? For David to clone the Bad Bish, their 700+whp shop car:
The chassis, following that, made numbers anywhere from mid 700s all the way up to 870hp AT THE WHEELS on E98. it was taken down to TX2K last year and whooped up on some stuff, spun on the dyno, and was all around very good at looking stock but being anything but.
This was with 800lbs of dude in the car:
I had a chance to ride in the car shortly after that, and that much power is really eye opening. Changes your perspective on the whole game.
At some point prior to the insane build, the car was backed into a ditch at speed, the wing broken and removed, and some body panels a bit messed up. The panels were replaced and the whole car was repainted, so the paint is fresh as of two years ago and has never been buffed or polished, it saw a clay bar out of the body shop and nothing but sealers since. A nice, fresh canvas for me.
Anyway, the 2nd owner got bored of the car (yeah, you read that right) because it just didn't try to kill him enough. He tried to sell it for a month and a half as it sat, and with no buyers, he bit the bullet and parted it out.
That's where the 3rd owner comes in, also a buddy of mine. He purchased the shell, rebuilt the car as near to stock as possible, and then sold it (to me) for a solid profit. The motor and t-case came from a IX MR that had its trunk pushed back into the rear seats and have 46k on them. The t-case, as a result, houses the more aggressive MR/RS helical front diff. The trans was rebuilt 3k ago, with the ever-desirable Evo VIII 4th gear, so it has the same driveline ratios as my old VIII. The only mods are a test pipe and Apex'i N1 coilovers with Swift springs, specifically the setup referenced in the video above on Buschur's car right down to the spring rates and damper settings.
But you guys really just want pics:
Image size reduced, original size: 800 x 534. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2887/11941183064_7f08d16789_c.jpg to view the image in its original dimension.
Image size reduced, original size: 800 x 534. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3707/11941587056_fe8a6579b6_c.jpg to view the image in its original dimension.
So yeah, that's the new SpazEvo.
|Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Jan 13 2014, 10:04 PM|
|Congrats on the new car Spaz! It looks wonderful! I love how the first thing you do when you get the car is just to run it through detailing. Are you planning on repainting again? And what exactly are your plans now?|
|Posted by: Banken Jan 14 2014, 05:09 AM|
| No offense, but buying a car that has been previously heavily modified, wrecked, repaired, and then detuned back to stock is not my idea of a good idea. If you're going to do that, you might as well buy the car with 800 hp, if only because of the extra metal fatigue that 800 hp does to the shell.
I assume it cost less than a similar stock or near-stock car in the same condition.
I've got N1 dampers too... how's the handling with yours?
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 14 2014, 09:59 AM|
The paint's in great shape outside of the front bumper, and I have no plans to take any part (or the whole thing) in for paint again if I can help it. I didn't detail it, just gave it a good wash so I could throw the cover on it for the next 2-3 months and not have any major contaminants on the paint.
I paid $18,500. A similarly clean, no accident, never modded IX with the same mileage recently sold locally for $25k.
The wreck was really minor, body damage came from bushes and a tree branch, nothing was compromised. The car left the ditch and made it 30 miles home under its own power. It needed a door, and fender, both skirts, and the wing was trashed.
The power on the other hand, it saw maybe 2000 miles total with that kind of power before the part out, and was towed from Buschur to Florida, from Florida to here, and from here down and back to TX2K. I plan to do a lot of the bolt-in bracing available, and will start with a 6-pt ladder brace just to see how bad it really is...
Anyway, outside of bracing, the car will get the injectors and clutch out of the black car, one of the Walbro 255 high pressure fuel pumps that previously came out of it, and then an E85 tune. Then it's more suspension mods and some cosmetic stuff.
I like the N1s so far, but the car is set up for high power and highway pulls, the rear end is soft so it squats hard on throttle and understeers a bit toward the limit. Buschur has a lot of time and effort into getting this setup perfect for the drag strip, so I may hold onto it as it sits to try to run some solid times before I do some "napkin math" and balance out the setup. I'd like to run an 11.49 or faster on fuel system alone, stock intake and exhaust included. The understeer can be driven around for the time being and it'll likely train my right foot more anyway.
|Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jan 14 2014, 12:15 PM|
|Nice to see you driving an Evo again (:|
|Posted by: sideways Jan 14 2014, 01:11 PM|
|Looks like youll have something to bring to socal this summer when i make it back out|
|Posted by: Fast Jan 14 2014, 02:23 PM|
| Awesome car Spaz. It's got a cool backstory to boot!
There's just something special (coy, if you will) about a big power, wingless Apex Silver Evo.
|Posted by: Phantom_R32 Jan 14 2014, 03:16 PM|
|I have a soft spot for Spoilerless Evos. Especially the IX. Looks great!|
|Posted by: Banken Jan 14 2014, 03:37 PM|
That's a pretty good deal, then.
It's unfortunate that the dampers are set up for going straight. A rebuild and revalving of alll four dampers will probably cost you well over $1000. I had to pay over $600 just to get my rear dampers rebuilt, and that's not with a revalving. And that&s not counting springs, either.
|Posted by: Grappler Jan 14 2014, 04:13 PM|
|"It only made 800" you and I both know that the 2nd owner was making way more than that. Spinning all of the tires on the dyno making silly loops on the dynograph|
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 14 2014, 04:44 PM|
| For the posts that I didn't quote, thanks for the compliments!
Hells yes! I'll have two weeks of vacation this year so it's game on.
If there's one thing you should know about me, I'm a complete sucker for cars with numbers and cars with awesome backstories.
I really like the wingless look on this car, it's fucking sexy. Especially that last photo.
I'm super happy, having been the one to spend the money. I don't think they've been revalved, but the rear springs are super soft and as a result so is the damper setting. I can do more research and report back.
1000hp at the crank, easy. It never got a decent full boost pull on anything other than Buschur's heartbreaker.
|Posted by: Banken Jan 14 2014, 11:51 PM|
| If they're more than 2 kg softer than the ones that originally came with the N1s, or were order made, than they were probably revalved or custom valved for the springs.
The fact that they're Swift springs makes me think they're probably not order-made, though (but that's just an assumption).
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 15 2014, 09:18 AM|
|They were not revalved, I just asked.|
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Jan 15 2014, 10:43 AM|
|It's so weird... apex silver is one of the colors where I rarely see a wingless one. Does your trunk have holes still? Or were they plugged with something or actually professionally done and repainted? Or was it just a painted Lancer/RS trunk?|
|Posted by: Bubs Jan 15 2014, 12:11 PM|
|That's really cool! I was following the acquisition outside of IDW but didn't realize the car had such an interesting history! Pretty cool to have a car that's rather famous! I'm not a fan of highway racing but it was still pretty cool to watch it brush off that Audi R8 V10 with ease.|
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 15 2014, 01:05 PM|
| Deez, filled and repainted with the rest of the car.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Jan 15 2014, 06:05 PM|
|You should try to hunt down an SE lip.|
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 15 2014, 07:56 PM|
It's getting a lip of some sort in black, that's for sure.
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 28 2014, 08:48 PM|
| Parts off the black car!
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|Posted by: Spaz Feb 3 2014, 03:27 PM|
| Wally 255HP and body plugs for the trunk!
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|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Feb 4 2014, 01:25 AM|
| ^Jeeze, what are those, 1984 Golf GTI seats!?! Sorry to hear about your wreck, glad your OK. Nice to see your back in the saddle again, some people just never learn.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 4 2014, 09:40 AM|
| Learning is for pussies.
Seriously though, my back won't take another one. Another similar situation will likely put me in a wheelchair. I've done a lot of re-thinking, and getting out of the game just isn't a viable option, so a different approach to building this car was the inevitable answer.
And LOL, my new DD is a base Mk5 GLI, so it comes (properly) with the GTI tartan seats. There's just something about plaid... Something about falling for character? Haha.
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 12 2014, 08:22 PM|
| So, I'm finding out tonight that there are new pointless E85 regulations that basically renders most local stations (and I'd guess most stations period) unable to sell the fuel, with the requirement that holding tanks must have been only used for E85 for the entirety of their installation. For stations that store it in tanks previously used for gasoline, this means the tank must be removed and disposed of, and a new tank installed, which costs upwards of $200,000, a figure that in the grand scheme of things will never pay itself off.
Worse, the station in Baxter, MN, the only station near to BIR, is using a repurposed tank. As of right now they have stopped selling the fuel and while the owners are lobbying for the regulations to be changed, if they are not they will be forced to cease sales indefinitely.
On top of that, I can say that the only bad tanks of E85 I ran in the original SpazEvo came from a station that meets these requirements, further solidifying how bullshit they truly are, and that regulation needs to be upon the station itself and the quality of the fuel pumped there, and not the tank itself.
As of right now, the build direction of the car is up in the air since it looks like I will be forced to run an inferior fuel for my application.
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Feb 12 2014, 09:08 PM|
| Time to switch to nitro-methane?
Welcome to the Peoples Republic of Minnesota, where government can solve all your problems, and create twice as many in the proccess.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 13 2014, 09:36 AM|
| Yep, fuck this state.
I'm thinking an Aquamist kit is in order, run 50/50 water/meth in a fogger config and call it good. It's not a perfect replacement but it'll work.
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Feb 13 2014, 11:22 AM|
Only pussys run nitro meth
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 13 2014, 01:46 PM|
| Oh you guys.
There are a couple stations that still have it within 20 minutes of the track, hopefully they will be able to continue to carry it, but my breath is far from held. I'll run it if the have it, but if they drop it too I'm switching. There're a couple guys up there who're keeping tabs on it and I don't have to commit one way or the other until the end of March.
|Posted by: MetalMan777 Feb 13 2014, 02:14 PM|
Yes, I like my hydrocarbons. The only lubricity alcohol offers is of the social sort. None of my cars need that much anti-knock anyway.
Methanol carries more oxygen than ethanol, switch to methanol. Burn more fuel, make more power.
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Feb 14 2014, 02:37 AM|
| ....Or you could get a Mr. Fusion and run on garbage (banana peels and piss warm flat Miller High Life), just sayin'.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: RalliKai Feb 14 2014, 05:54 AM|
Even those will be banned soon.
We'll be driving cars powered by miniture wind farms built on the hoods.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Feb 14 2014, 08:30 AM|
| I prefer being powered by snails under the hood
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 14 2014, 11:10 AM|
It would be a 50/50 mix of water and methanol in a secondary injection system. That gets you the best of both worlds, and in fact due to the combination of cooling and knock-quench will make more power than any other mixture of the two, or either by themselves.
That's the worst idea I've ever heard!
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Feb 14 2014, 03:02 PM|
|Zero problems... you should've seen my smog test results from last month. Clean as a whistle.|
|Posted by: MetalMan777 Feb 14 2014, 08:14 PM|
Tuned right, pure methanol should make you more power than anything else. Except nitromethane. Expensive and your mpgs go to absolute shit, but you make a lot of power that way.
You could buy a Nitrous Oxide kit a lot cheaper than a bunch of turbo mods.
|Posted by: sideways Feb 14 2014, 10:40 PM|
|Ive actually always been a fan of water/meth injection kits over e85. E85 is great if you can find it- But its not a viable option for everyone. Its nice being able to fill up *anywhere* with anyones gas, instead of having to revolve your cars life around a very small handfull of stations. Just so much more "practical" to me.|
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 15 2014, 11:45 AM|
This! So much this.
I don't MIND being tethered to a few stations, hell, I tend to be very business loyal so that works out just fine. But leaving the Midwest turns into a pretty big hassle for fuel when E is all you can run. I had a pump gas map for my VIII that would allow me to limp the car without boost to the next station with E, but overall that was a horrible way to go about it and would drag a very low E content mixture out for 3 or 4 tanks before numbers get back to acceptable ranges.
An alky kit definitely fixes that kind of issue.
|Posted by: sideways Feb 15 2014, 08:53 PM|
| Haha sounds about right to me! I can only imagine how much of a pain in the ass it must be trying to actually plan a trip, plotting out appropriate gas stations along the way and budgeting your gas.
With a water/alcohol injection setup all you need to do is find a home depot or the similar. Cant find pure methanol there? Ef it. Run denatured alcohol. Cant find either of these (because say, theyre out, or you cant find a home depot or the like)? Ef them too- Run to an autoparts store (or anywhere that has generic autopart stuff, its pretty common- gas station, grocery store, etc) and buy yourself a bottle of "Heet" (or similar). Its an additive that stops your lines from freezing over- How? Because its basically a bottle of meth. Dilute that 50/50 with some water and youre golden. Cant find THAT??! Dont fret! Buy yourself some low temp windshield washing (rated for below freezing) fluid for a couple bucks per gallon, as these will basically be a mix of meth/water (Watch out for hippie friendly brands though that dont use meth). Cant find THAT? Ef em again! Run pure water. Not ideal- But itll get the job done. Whats that? No watter? Screw it, turn your boost down to knock friendly level- Still fill up with gas anywhere, and be just fine. The options are plentiful.
Another nice perk to the injection kits? You get *normal* gas mileage, and not e85 gas mileage. Its only a 15% difference or so for most people depending on tuning, and arguing for "gas mileage" on your "racer" is kind of silly, but hey anything that saves me money is a nice perk to me.
Have i mentioned i prefer injection kits
|Posted by: MetalMan777 Feb 15 2014, 09:19 PM|
|IsoHeet (as if the name doesn't give it away) is isopropyl. Similar enough to methanol that it'll do the same job, but don't spend money on that when you can go to CVS (make sure it's CVS, because I don't own Walgreens stock) and buy isopropyl in a quart at 70 or 91% concentration for less than the Heet. The balance of the % is pure water, since you're gonna mix it with that anyway.|
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 16 2014, 01:03 PM|
| Worst case is even simpler than shopping around... Can't find alky supplies? Just leave the system off!
The setup on the Aquamist systems is amazing. the controller has a a trigger wire that you run to the ECU and use for map switching. With the system off, it runs your standard pump gas fuel, timing, and boost maps. One press of the button to power the system, and it throws voltage at the trigger pin and all of a sudden you're on alky maps, with notably more aggressive timing and boost curves. Flow is controlled by injector duty cycle, so you set the onset of boost and flow caps, and it runs and tunes no differently than if you were running a secondary set of injectors like on a rotary.
It's an ideal, but even with the failsafes there's always the risks.
|Posted by: sideways Feb 16 2014, 02:36 PM|
|I havent looked at kits in awhile- May I inquire which kit that is, and if i may be so bold, ask how much the retail is on it?|
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Feb 16 2014, 02:49 PM|
More than you can afford pal.
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 16 2014, 10:35 PM|
It's a lot, but so are injectors for E85, around $500 for a set. So all things considered it's not bad. Once you talk lines, mounting hardware, extra wiring, etc, it's best to figure about $1000 for a filled and functional system.
|Posted by: sideways Feb 17 2014, 12:37 AM|
|Im too used to being here in australia. That sounds appropriately affordable to me|
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 17 2014, 08:24 AM|
Well, even in USD I agree that it's appropriately priced.
Still, I'll be considering it for a while. I'm thinking for the first few events I'll rock the car mostly as it sits; drop the fuel pump in, fix the rear spring rates, tune, and call it good.
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 23 2014, 07:25 AM|
| Well, I let on that I may be able to be convinced to pull the car out of storage, and my buddy at https://www.facebook.com/trussphotography knew just how to bribe me.
We made some photo magic happen last night, and here's the first one.
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|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Feb 23 2014, 09:05 PM|
| Looking good Spaz, can't wait to see it in person!
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Feb 24 2014, 09:31 AM|
That's a great shot! And that reminds me...
How times have changed! Hehehe
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 24 2014, 10:39 AM|
Can't help buying a car without it!
Either way, I'll probably pick up a winged trunk at some point.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Feb 24 2014, 11:22 AM|
| Would you trade your wingless trunk for one, or would you want to have both trunks?
As you probably remember, I went wingless (authentic carbon-fiber Do-Luck trunk) for around eight months, and while it was cool to have all of that visibility and be even less worried about being pulled over, once I put the stock trunk with the wing back on, I realized how much I missed it.
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 24 2014, 06:07 PM|
|I'd keep both trunks, use the winged one for shows and track days, and rock the wingless look on the street. I don't need anything drawing attention with the lack of front plate and blatantly illegal tint.|
|Posted by: Grappler Feb 25 2014, 10:50 AM|
|gt wing for the track do it naow|
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 27 2014, 07:53 PM|
Wheels are lined up. CE28 Time Attacks (Yay limited production things!) in 17x9 currently wrapped in 245 Z1*. I should be able to get a few events out of them still.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Feb 28 2014, 08:45 AM|
|When those tires are done, what would you replace them with? I'd assume ZIIs now, and perhaps in a wider size? While the Z1s do run a little wide in general, I'd assume a 9" tire can fit something a lot bigger than that, since people were even putting on Z1s in 255 on the stock 8" OEM Evo wheels.|
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 28 2014, 11:23 AM|
| I ran 255s on stock Enkeis on my VIII, never again. The increase in grip was nice in a straight line (last summer was the first I couldn't light up all 4 off the limiter), but having the sidewall angled the wrong way really caused some wallow-y-ness in hard cornering, and a reduced feel as well. Even at 38psi on the track it was notable. On the flip side, it did make them very snap-resistant. I liked them, but it just wasn't a good setup overall.
I'll probably go with 255s on these, and at this point will have to discuss tires with those who've run most of the current market stuff. I'm between ZIIs (* specs maybe if they're out), Rivals, or RS3s. I liked the RE11As but they were pretty compromise-y and since the coilovers already throw ride comfort out the window there's no need for that anymore.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Feb 28 2014, 03:25 PM|
| When I had Z1* tires, I ran 235s, and they ran a tad wider than the OEM Advan A046s, though the Hankooks I have right now are a tad narrower than even the OEM tires but not by much. (But the fact that most non-Mom and Pop tire places won't install 255s on an 8" wheel even though it will fit kind of made the decision easy for me to just stick with 235s.)
I'll probably switch to ZIIs when my Hankooks are toast, though I've had them on for about 19k miles and there's hardly any wear on them haha... so it might be at least another year before I do make the switch.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 4 2014, 09:25 AM|
Your wear problem can be fixed.
I forget, are you on RS3s or V12s?
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Mar 4 2014, 10:00 AM|
|V12s. The last tire rotation I had (at 15k miles on them), the shop said that there was hardly any wear. But at the same time, putting wear on these tires in particular the fun way is alright... once you go past maybe 6/10ths, the tires start struggling haha.|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 4 2014, 08:38 PM|
|Yeah, no kidding... Those tires were fine on the street but completely worthless for anything really hard. Sidewalls are too squishy and they break away too easily. They did hook up really well at the line with 25psi in them though! They did last a while too, I got two seasons out of mine, unfortunately. I was ready to be done after one.|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 9 2014, 07:49 PM|
| Oh dear...
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So yeah, 40 degrees today and I said fuck it, pulled the car out of storage for some ice shenanigans. Went really well, the track was a bare sheet of ice to start, but as the day progressed it got slushy and FAST. I can safely say I've never been 50mph before on ice, and probably never will again, but holy shit was there grip out there. There were certain corners I couldn't even slide unless I was going faster than 30.
But anyway, a couple issues, pretty fixable... The first, early on, I hit a huge pothole in the ice that I found unavoidable while sideways with no traction (I cranked the wheel so the tire passed through it straight) and immediately after found that the steering wheel was off by a notable amount. I checked for damage and found none, then popped the hood... The strut had SLIPPED down the camber plate, adding camber, toe in, and shifting the steering angle. So commenced an operation to source a jack, tools, and fix the issue, which turned out to be that the camber plate screws were not as tight as they should have been, very thankful I found that out now and not down the road.
Second, I found a snowbank pretty solidly with the front end while sideways doing about 30 when the car caught traction and snapped before I could catch it. Pushed the driver's side quick disconnect halfway out (a design flaw, and I should be able to fix and band aid it) and ripped the previously cracked part of the lip off. No big deal, needs a new lip and bumper needed paint anyway. I'll call it motivation.
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Was super awesome and fun, I'll post more pics and post and video I find, plus the event vid once that gets finished.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Mar 11 2014, 03:43 AM|
|Time for the SE lip!|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 11 2014, 08:18 AM|
Indeed! My thoughts exactly.
I had it apart yesterday and noted some cracking on the fender as well at a couple weak points, the retainer for the bumper screw is broken too so that doesn't stay in, So I'll probably pull that off too and see if I can at least get the retainer to stay in.
|Posted by: Grappler Mar 11 2014, 10:27 AM|
|screw it time to tube frame the front end|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 11 2014, 11:46 AM|
Because street car!
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 12 2014, 04:21 AM|
| More pics!
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I seriously can't wait for the video these were clipped from!
|Posted by: RalliKai Mar 12 2014, 05:41 AM|
|Those shots remind me of Chamonix. Sorry for nerding off alittle. Great pictures though.|
|Posted by: sideways Mar 12 2014, 09:46 PM|
|So if I may be nosey- whats the story about where those pictures were taken? Is that an actual event of sorts or something else? Looks intriguing|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 13 2014, 09:11 AM|
Kind of. A bunch of buddies of mine decided last year that they were going to do ice events. We had to drive the track in ourselves back then, now we pay a plow guy to come out and plow the track.
Basically, it's a private, invite only event we do a few times each winter on a public lake. A bunch of photographer friends come out, we've got a buddy with a quadcopter that comes out too, and overall we get a ton of media of us fucking around with our cars on ice.
And it's awesome.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 15 2014, 05:53 AM|
| Small update, but the car has an aftermarket head unit now, so things actually sound good.
And with the Infinity package, it sounds DAMN good.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Mar 15 2014, 06:54 AM|
Yeah, the stock speakers are more than decent, even in the "regular" Evo (meaning without the SSL package). I've always been trying to hunt down the SSL subwoofer since it fits neatly in the trunk, but they always get snatched up fast or sell for more than what I'd want to pay.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 15 2014, 03:30 PM|
Not anything I'd try too hard for, because I agree, the OE Mitsubishi Electric speakers in the non-SSL cars are pretty decent. I mean, I dealt with them for 3.5 years before this.
My bonus check comes this week, so wheels and tires are happening!
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 18 2014, 06:42 PM|
| Yum, wheels...
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Volk CE28 Time Attacks in 17x9 +35 wrapped in 245 Z1 Star Specs. Now the weather just needs to get nice...
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Mar 21 2014, 07:11 PM|
| Ahh, bagged up tires in a basement, takes me back. Scored a nice set of slightly used Perilli's (195/60 r15's) back in the day. I can still hear my Mom bitching to "Get those fucking tires out of my laundry room already!"
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 27 2014, 05:05 PM|
Those're old. I should donate them to drifters. Actually, fuck it, they're going up to Proving Grounds with me this year and are getting a sign that says "Will trade for ride in drift car", that should make them disappear.
I didn't get a whole lot of screen time, likely because I had issues catching people and couldn't go fast enough to keep it sideways... The winter rubber is simply too new and grippy to work well in traffic, the WRX was the only car I could really have a bunch of fun with out there.
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Mar 28 2014, 07:12 AM|
| hey atleast we got to see where you stuffed it! lol
that G37 looks like a good time as well.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 28 2014, 12:56 PM|
| Dude, he had NO issue stuffing that thing. The second February event (when I took the Jetta) he was all up in those snow banks.
BTW, I was sent ALL of the footage that includes my car today, 15 FUCKING GB of it. I'll be downloading it and starting to go through it tonight, eventually putting together a video of just me. Apparently there's TONS of footage of me on the technical course (that got basically no time in this video) so I'm super excited to see all that.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 28 2014, 08:51 PM|
| And here's what I threw together quick tonight.
|Posted by: kyonpalm Mar 28 2014, 09:57 PM|
http://puu.sh/7NE0v/7809bcc5c8.mp3 Good stuff.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 29 2014, 04:06 AM|
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Mar 29 2014, 02:14 PM|
| So is there a point system for throwing snow balls into hood scoops/sunroofs?
Also, that UAV is fucking awsome!
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 29 2014, 07:06 PM|
If there is there should also be a point system for how many pounds of snow you scrape off your back seat and rear windscreen deck!
The quadcopter is a DJI Phantom II, they're pretty damn expensive but are awesome, the Gopro is on a gimbal mount!
Speaking of things that're pretty damn expensive, I just bolted up some sexiness! It's going to be 60 degrees tomorrow so I figured what the hell, it's not like I have to drive it every day to care if the summers are on.
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|Posted by: Spaz Apr 6 2014, 07:59 AM|
| 60 Degrees today, it's coming back out! I have an appointment on the 15th to have the cracked windshield replaced, too.
So, right now, my list of necessities between now and season start is pretty short:
Brake pads, Hawk HP+ (picking up tomorrow)
Boost controller (picking up tomorrow)
Brake master cylinder brace (picking up tomorrow)
Wally 255 fuel pump that's sitting in the basement
Tune (before the end of the month, shakedown is May 2nd)
Spring rate adjustment I'll address after a shakedown, but I need to measure them to see where they're at right now so I can get some "napkin math" done to see if I can go stiffer and keep the same balance, etc. The front is soft but it's definitely got plenty of grip, the rear is what I'd want to mess with to start, hard on-throttle off-camber corners get it hopping pretty good, though it doesn't break loose. I can also stand on the brake pedal mid-corner, and as long as it's not too cold for competition tires, it won't let go. When it is too cold (36 degrees when tested) it breaks away smoothly and predictably, definitely can be caught with plenty of leeway (Grappler and I are still alive, anyway. ), even when it's clearly tripodding.
This is going to be a fun season, since I'm going to be learning suspension setup while trying to be class competitive at the same time. I'm gunning for hardware at Proving Grounds!
|Posted by: Grappler Apr 7 2014, 02:22 PM|
Hurah for errand day!
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 7 2014, 08:45 PM|
| Oh, and harnesses happened too.
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Schroth Rallye 4s with the ASM strap. And I know that a few people will jump on me for a lack of harness bar, and the harness is simply not designed to be used with one. These are DOT approved as currently installed.
The car itself is washed and back in my own garage, and I'll be trying to get the master cylinder brace installed tomorrow. Pads will be installed when I get them so they can be bedded in.
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Apr 8 2014, 04:31 PM|
| Are those 4 or 5 point harnesses?
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 8 2014, 06:42 PM|
4-point. With the Anti-SubMarining strap, that's just fine. They had to be crash tested to pass the DOT cert and obviously passed. As I said, I expect the skepticism, but I bought these from my previous tuner, who ran them for years at the track, and were recommended to me by one of the most talented and active drivers I personally know. People wouldn't recommend and run these, nor would there be a DOT cert number on the strap if they weren't safe.
On another note, I installed the master cylinder brace today, but have yet to drive the car more than 4 feet with it to know how much of a difference in feel it makes.
I also may have scored a co-driver for Proving Grounds who will lend a set of Raybestos ST43 track pads in exchange for the drive, which will match quite nicely with the Motul RBF600 racing fluid I picked up yesterday.
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Apr 9 2014, 08:13 PM|
| Nice choice on the 4 point, my buddy deleted the crotch strap on his 5 points in his Meyers Manx, no point in living after your junk is junked.
Also, Chevrolet Cobalts were DOT certified, = good luck with that. :/ not to rip on your crash harnesses, just to love to rip on GM.
Also also, master cylinder brace, wahhh? Necessary? What kind of G-forces are you achieving in the corners, or is the factory unit held in place with duct tape, zip ties and good intentions?
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: sideways Apr 10 2014, 02:38 AM|
Nah, its not about the g-forces Its more to do with how much force is exerted on the firewall when you use the brakes hard, and how much the firewall deflects because of those forces- Which (can) results in exaggerated braking effort. Older cars can easily see a good half an inch or more of deflection depending on how flexy things are. Bracing the master cylinder to reduce this deflection can reduce the amount of push you need on the pedal for a given amount of braking, and increase "pedal feel" (make it a bit more firm, less squishy, get a bit more feedback on the pedal when using the brakes, etc)
Is it "necessary"? Eennhhh, on modern street cars with power brakes? Imo- Not in the slightest. The "pedal feel" difference on any car id classify as being "semi decent" was little more than nil (Though it can be nice on some older "flexy" cars.. kind of makes me wonder how my Z is honestly lol). But race cars? It can be quite nice. Biggest difference though, is its not uncommon for a race car to delete the power assist, and just run straight up manual brakes, with multiple cylinders (one for the front, one for the rear). These require a *lot* of braking effort in comparison to a car with a brake booster, and the amount of flex you can see on these setups is startling.
Just for reference: Brz/Frs?Gt86 master cylinder flex
Thats about a 1/3rd of an inch of flex, and thats on a new car with a fairly decent chassis.
|Posted by: Banken Apr 10 2014, 06:40 AM|
| My MR2's firewall flexes like mad. You can see it flexing.
But sadly, they don't still make any stoppers for cars with ABS (the pump and hoses are in the way) any more... So it's either convert to manual brakes (my ABS doesn't work anyway) or have a custom brace made.
I installed teflon hoses and that make a huge difference, but it still leaves a bit to be desired.
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 10 2014, 08:20 AM|
|The change in feel is equivalent to adding stainless lines, but unfortunately I have no good benchmark since the pads that are on this car are parts store specials right now (came with the car) and I can get them pretty stinky after a single hard triple digit stop. I should have a better idea once I get a proper set of pads on it, but I do feel like there's a little less pedal travel to get to the lockup point.|
|Posted by: MetalMan777 Apr 10 2014, 08:28 AM|
|I don't think much of that harness design, but plenty of E36 M3 drivers use them on the track. Schroth is a good company. I'd rather risk my nads with a 5 point than use a 4, though. My MG has a 4 point from Corbeau, I don't care much for it.|
|Posted by: Banken Apr 11 2014, 04:00 PM|
|Don't buy a five-point. It's only one more hole to install a six-point and they are VASTLY safer than five-points. It's been proven.|
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Apr 11 2014, 05:54 PM|
|I did steel braided brake lines on my legacy, I wasnt too impressed as it didnt really help the pedal feel but once I did the Grimmspeed master cylinder brace it was night and day difference.|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 13 2014, 08:32 AM|
| The brace with the Hawk pads was amazing. I've driven Evos with HP+ pads without the brace, and this feels way better. The pedal is rock solid all the way through the travel range and is very confidence inspiring, on top of the ridiculous limits the tires and suspension are already giving the car.
I'll go ahead and say it: I need to clear off some shelf space, because this car will bring home hardware.
Now, onto the bad... After bedding the pads in, I did a U-turn at the end of the street (necessary to keep from scraping at the end of the driveway), and as I approached steering lock that car got really tough to move, started jerking and bucking, and I could hear a tire scuffing pretty bad. So I checked the brakes and all seemed fine, figured something in the driveline was binding. So yesterday I borrowed my dad and drove circles around him. Sure as shit, the rear inside tire, no matter which way I turn, locks and scuffs. So either the rear diff fluid is shot or the diff itself is done for. I'm going outside right now to drain the fluid and we'll see where that leads.
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Apr 13 2014, 11:50 AM|
| ^Shitty, hope it's just fluid, but given the history of the car I wouldn't be surprised if it's internal diff issues (assuming it's never been replaced).
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 13 2014, 12:38 PM|
| Diff has 97k, fluid had 20k including the 3k of 1000hp.
The fluid change didn't fix it, and I'm left a bit more confused. The fluid was clearly old, but didn't seem to be in terrible shape. There was some glitter in it, but for 20k fluid that's pretty normal. The drain plug had very little metal on it. However, I did notice the front left area clicking under right hand turns, but the rear is clearly what is scuffing the tires. I'm pretty lost, so I'm going to take it down to my tuner tomorrow morning and have him at least go for a ride to see what he thinks. I almost want to see if he'll be willing to roll it onto the dyno and see how it behaves with the rollers unlocked front to rear, see if there are clues there. Maybe the whole rear axle or the prop shaft is binding? Who knows at this point.
|Posted by: Banken Apr 14 2014, 05:14 AM|
| IIRC, mechanical diffs simply turn into to open diffs when the oil is old.
Sounds like something worse to me.
At 97k you need to rebuild it, if it's a clutch pack diff.
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 14 2014, 05:06 PM|
| Mitsu doesn't list a rebuild as standard maintenance on the rear diff, and it's nothing I've ever seen done at any specific interval on these cars normally.
However, my tuner is now completely head over heels in love with my brakes (he seriously could not shut up about them), but is nearly as confused as I about the binding. He's guessing it's something in the front end, but no matter what combination of wheel rotation we tried on the lift, it simply would not bind up, so it only does so under load, making it hard as hell to pinpoint.
It's probably the front diff, but the driver's side axle has a small tear in the outer boot. It's nothing that's spewing grease yet, but since it does need to be addressed, I'm going to use the principles of Occam's Razor and replace it first. if that fails to correct the issue, the front diff is pretty easy to remove from the t-case so that'll be the next step following the axle.
|Posted by: Banken Apr 15 2014, 01:44 AM|
|Does your front diff have an LSD? I mean, didn't the car used to have 900 HP?|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 15 2014, 08:22 AM|
T-case came fully assembled, front diff included, from a bone stock MR in Chicago. It's a helical unit, so it's entirely possible that an axle locking up could cause it to bind. I'm going to swap the axle and go from there.
|Posted by: Banken Apr 16 2014, 03:13 PM|
|Helical units don't lock up, though, so it's probably something else. Helical units don't need to be rebuilt, either.|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 19 2014, 06:32 AM|
|It doesn't need to lock up if the wheel is locked up. It will transfer torque to the slower spinning wheel. I mean, I'm not crazy, right? That is how it works?|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 20 2014, 08:59 AM|
| We confirmed last night that the center diff is fucked. With the rear on the ground and the front in the air, spinning both fronts the same direction will yield a lockup once the driveline slop is gone, even though the center diff is fully open under no throttle conditions (such as ignition off), but once the prop shaft locks up the whole thing stops.
The spiders looked good when the trans was rebuilt, so who knows. I'll just have to do another rebuild and throw the Exedy in while it's out.
|Posted by: Banken Apr 21 2014, 07:03 AM|
They don't really transfer torque so much as keep one tire from spinning faster than the other, which effectively transfers torque to the tire with traction.Clutch pack diffs (traditional diffs) hey do this by locking the wheels together with cams and clutches. Helical diffs do it with gears.
Effectively speaking they do the same thing (they limit slip, hence the name), but helical diffs sacrifice response, absolute traction, and the ability to function when one wheel is off the ground for better drivability, no noise, and low maintenance.
A clutch pack won't work if it isn't locking, which is why they need frequent oil changes and rebuilds. It eventually just turns into an open diff.
A helical diff never locks up, which makes it easier to turn.
|Posted by: sideways Apr 22 2014, 12:02 AM|
I thought this might help. Or make it worse. But it might help
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 22 2014, 11:05 AM|
|The clutch pack is locking, trust me. I can hear it doing so when everything binds up. I could also feel it under hard on-throttle cornering previous to this issue. Regardless, the center diff is locked up. We confirmed this and the trans will come out shortly.|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 30 2014, 08:47 AM|
| Well, we were wrong. The center diff was fine.
The transfer case was torn into next, and the front diff was for sure bad, leaning on a shaft would force one of the helical gears into the housing, causing it to skip. The diff was replaced and all is good there. My old Exedy, however, needed a rebuild thanks to damaged discs from the accident, and the rear end still scuffs the tires... So the issue in front likely damaged the rear, which we knew had plenty of abuse anyway. So that'll be rebuilt here as well.
Alignment is scheduled for Thursday evening, shakedown is Friday. Here's hoping there aren't any more snags since this is already forcing me to pull out of the USCA event at Gateway in July.
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Apr 30 2014, 05:49 PM|
|Might as well throw in a straight cut gear box while you're in there|
|Posted by: Grappler Apr 30 2014, 07:06 PM|
THIS THIS THIS THIS!!!
|Posted by: Spaz May 1 2014, 08:28 AM|
| I'm about ready to...
Hasn't even left the shop and it's binding again, trans is going to come back out. And I'm also about ready to put it in storage for the rest of the summer and cancel my racing weekends.
|Posted by: Spaz May 3 2014, 07:43 AM|
| Went to a track day last night, drove a couple others' cars, and came out having learned a lot. My goal was to learn to be smooth and precise, not jerky, not tossing the car around, and I was making notable improvements.
One of my instructors summed me up very well: "You have good instincts to go fast, and you know know where the lines are, you just need to apply smooth inputs and patience to that." That's a bit of a paraphrase since I don't remember exact words but that was the gist of it.
Also got a ride in the car that my wheels and tires came off of, and it reaffirmed that my build strategy with this one is sound; He's got a bunch of suspension stuff, stock boost with a clean up tune, and the car just tears up tracks. Talked to him about some alignment numbers and should be good to go once we figure out the driveline.
|Posted by: Spaz May 9 2014, 09:39 AM|
| So, I'm planning to pick the car up tonight from the shop. The ACD is the culprit, it's not relieving pressure so the system is 100% locked 100% of the time. Disabling the pump and depressurizing the system solved the issue.
So the car has a 100% open center diff at the moment but I can at least drive it while I search for parts, probably just a solenoid.
|Posted by: MetalMan777 May 9 2014, 01:35 PM|
|You'd think they'd have some kind of diagnostic tool to find out exactly where the fault is, or something. Lock out the shaft to the front, rwd ftw. Not that an open center diff is going to ruin your life.|
|Posted by: Banken May 9 2014, 03:06 PM|
So does that mean all the power to the rear or all the power to the front when disabled?
Did changing the setting with the Snow/Gravel/Tarmac switch change anything?
|Posted by: MetalMan777 May 9 2014, 03:08 PM|
|It means it sends more power to whichever side has less traction. Exactly the opposite of what you want.|
|Posted by: Spaz May 9 2014, 07:47 PM|
Exactly. So the solution is to toss it really hard into a corner to get the ass out, then stand on the throttle. Instant drift machine!
I kid, I kid.
Changing the ACD setting did nothing because the system was literally at max pressure 100% of the time. Lock is achieved at about 16bar, and the safety valve opens at 18bar. The system had tons of pressure even with the car off, which was right away an indication that something isn't right. We left the system depressurized and disabled it entirely; I have no mode selection lights at all on the dash.
I'm in the process of sourcing a new solenoid, but it'll be tough. Not exactly a common part and not something Mitsu sells without the pump.
|Posted by: Banken May 10 2014, 01:56 AM|
| Speaking of diffs... I think the spare transmission I have in my house has an aftermarket LSD in it. I hope. The gear oil change interval is a bitch on the wallet, though.
Ever notice how a lot of times the manufacturer won't sell the parts most likely to break by themselves? Things like that ~$50 solenoid always end up coming with a $1,500 pump. Or the ball joints of the front arm of a post-89 FC, which only come with a new arm.
I could look online here if you want... Evo parts are probably a lot easier to come by, and I assume something like this would be universal between JDM/USDM/etc.
|Posted by: Spaz May 11 2014, 07:10 PM|
| 8/9/10 all use the same solenoid, and the 10 has two. I would assume that 4/5/6/7 use the same as well, I've been around Mitsus long enough to know how they build these things.
I may end up needing the whole pump though, at least I'll pick one up, then try the solenoid. If it works, done deal, and I sell the pump sans solenoid for $100 less. if not, I throw the whole thing in, still no big deal. Problem gets solved regardless.
In other news, I got an alignment... And this is where things get REALLY interesting:
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The passenger rear is AS GOOD AS IT GETS. Those numbers are with the camber eccentric MAXED negative, and the toe eccentric binds and won't go further toward zero. Now, here's the kicker; the camber eccentric on the driver's side is maxed POSITIVE. It will not go any more positive than -0.8. Toe is fine on that side. So I've come to the conclusion that the subframe needs to be realigned to the unibody. Only explanation as to why it would be like it is considering the unibody is straight... At least straight enough to not cause nearly half an inch of variation in bolt position, that would be pretty darn visible.
So it's more fun to come, but I'm not pulling my hair out wanting to sell the thing anymore now that the driveline is figured out. Put 715 miles on it since Friday (yay cruises!) and am right back head over heels for it.
|Posted by: Banken May 12 2014, 03:11 AM|
| The solution would be adding more negative to the right rear... -0.8 is more than a reasonable amount for a car that sees track duty.
I just got my rears set to -2.2 the other day (with camber bolts)...and I could probably use a little bit more (but would need to slot my struts for that).
I'm pretty sure the 4/5/6 don't use the same pump since apparently the 7+ AYC has twice as much power transferability.
Also, CT9A pumps go for about $400-500 on Yahoo Auctions...just FYI.
|Posted by: Spaz May 12 2014, 06:59 AM|
I'm aware of both the pricing and pump differences, but I'm speaking specifically of the solenoid being the same between them. As I said, it wouldn't surprise me. This would have to be verified, however.
Regardless, maybe reread what I wrote about the rear end alignment? SOMETHING is definitely off, I can take some pics of the camber eccentrics if you need me to. The driver's side is maxed out positive, the passenger side maxed negative. The upper arms bolt to the unibody so the subframe being offset perfectly explains what I'm seeing. Regardless, I need to fix it, 200 or less treadwear tires won't last with that much toe, and I'm nearly due for new ones, so it needs to be in spec by then.
|Posted by: Banken May 13 2014, 02:11 AM|
|Use some string and plumb bobs to measure the center of the sub frame compared to the centerline of the chassis. It's a technique listed in How to Make Your Car Handle.|
|Posted by: Spaz May 13 2014, 08:15 AM|
|I'll have to do that. I'll get in contact with a buddy with a lift.|
|Posted by: RedsunsF1 May 13 2014, 10:14 AM|
|I miss this Forum. I got some reading to do so I can see what you have done to your IX|
|Posted by: Spaz May 14 2014, 08:24 AM|
Auto section FTW!
On the IX, not much, yet. Just spent way too much on diagnostics and need to drop more still on actual fixes. Pay day is Friday so I plan to get an ACD pump assembly on the way to have the driveline at near 100%. My next shake down is the 23rd. The alignment stuff can hold off but I do need to have a solid picture of how the car acts on these springs in a controlled environment with the driveline transferring power properly.
Based on the wallowy feel in hard fast corners from this past weekend, I'm guessing I'll want to go stiffer, which means revalving too... I've heard that the N1 EXVs don't handle more than 8k without modification.
|Posted by: Grappler May 15 2014, 05:29 AM|
|This was also with a wonky alignment why don't you get that fixed and re-evaluate?|
|Posted by: Spaz May 15 2014, 08:49 AM|
That's part of it, but I'm mainly concerned with body roll and how that specifically is affecting grip.
|Posted by: Banken May 16 2014, 04:35 AM|
Body roll is irrelevant... it's camber change you need to worry about...which you fix by reducing body roll. Hmm...
It's also a good idea to put some zipties on your suspension to measure the compression and rebound stroke of your suspension (well, when you've got aftermarket parts) to make sure you've got enough stroke.
|Posted by: Spaz May 16 2014, 09:08 AM|
LOL, that's exactly my body roll concern, I just tend to jump all the way across the page instead of textually connecting dots, haha. Finding out how much it's rolling and how much it's affecting camber is going to be the key, and I'll look into the ziptie trick too.
Right now the main concerns are still the rear end and the ACD pump, but I did have a small victory last night in adjusting the brake light switch so I'm not nearly brake-checking people to get the lights to come on... These pads and pressure-bled system are no joke!
Also, with the Jetta in the body shop for the fender rust (VW is picking up the tab), this is my 5th day daily driving this car, plus the two days from the cruise... Seriously, fuck my life with the brake noise. It's funny a couple times a week, but every day is just nerve wracking.
|Posted by: Spaz May 24 2014, 07:02 AM|
| Race car stuff.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 May 24 2014, 07:08 AM|
What brakes do you have?
My OEM ones never made a noise, but when I replaced them at 40k miles, I just went with Girodisc pads, but those also make a lot of noise at low speed braking on hot days after driving for a while.
|Posted by: Spaz May 24 2014, 10:28 AM|
| Hawk HP Plus.
You can't hear them in the video since there was an unintentional cooldown lap (someone lost it under braking coming up the hill) so they weren't completely up to temp, but they're noisy on the track and downright ear-piercing when cold on the street, with a silent midrange.
The track performance makes it all worth it though, they are seriously incredible, and once the tires (currently Z1*s) have heat too they'll try near successfully to remove your face with notable braking.
|Posted by: Banken May 27 2014, 04:51 AM|
|Speaking of the zip ties again, I am SO glad I put them on my car, since I finally learned why my car isn't handling properly... because I'm bottoming my front shocks, which ruins my low and high speed cornering and my braking. Now I know what I can do to fix this problem, which is get stiffer, longer springs and add some preload (I can't add any because my front springs are too short).|
|Posted by: sideways May 28 2014, 01:24 AM|
|How much suspension travel do you have on compression? Sorry if I missed it, but what kind of suspension are you running? Im personally not a huge fan of spring preload, unless youre setting the car up pretty specifically for a particular track- imo all you end up doing is diminish the springs ability to absorb bumps, making the car bounce until the force exceeds the preload.|
|Posted by: Banken May 28 2014, 04:56 AM|
| Hmm, I'd say roughly seven or eight inches (possibly less) on my Apex'i coilovers from full droop (with stabilizers on) to the end of the cylinder (they're inverted monotube shocks).
IIRC the only problem with too much preload is that it limits rebound stroke, right?
These coilovers originally came with 175 mm 4 kg springs. They're so short I can't use any preload at all, and they're so soft my tires hit the frame on sharp or bumpy turns.
I'm hoping the 200 mm 5 kg springs I ordered will at least keep me off the bump rubbers.
My rear shocks were rebuilt a little over a year ago, but the fronts are...unknown. I think I will get the fronts rebuilt and revalved for stiffer springs.
|Posted by: Spaz May 28 2014, 06:34 AM|
| Pretty sure I have a bad inner tie rod now. With the car up in the air, it pops turning the wheel to the right. Hard to tell where the sound is coming from, but it sounds like it might be the driver's side. Makes sense since that's the side that sees the most side load between cloverleaves and BIR.
I also cleaned the gravel off the spring perches and greased them to help keep spring noise down, they catch as they settle coming out of the driveway so it needed to be done.
I'll have to mess around with this zip tie trick here eventually.
|Posted by: Banken May 28 2014, 06:40 AM|
| Cleaning the perches is an exercise in futility if you daily drive your car...
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz May 28 2014, 06:51 AM|
I don't DD it, but it does get street driven a couple times a week. I'll just keep an eye (or ear) on them. It at least has the Swift inserts so it's not metal on metal, but if 5 minutes every couple of weeks will keep things from getting ground on too much that's acceptable to me.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 2 2014, 09:35 AM|
| ACD is fixed! Put the replacement pump assembly in yesterday and everything's good to go!
Messed with the bumper too, so the quick disconnect lines up way better and with less gap, allowing me to actually rely on it instead of screws on the driver's side. Things are coming along!
|Posted by: sideways Jun 3 2014, 01:57 AM|
One of these days we need to get a "+1" feature. Awesome news.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 3 2014, 08:34 AM|
I could deal with some +1s, haha.
Last thing between now and Proving Grounds is the frame and a finalized alignment, and maybe tires. Other than that the car should be good to go!
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 5 2014, 08:40 AM|
| The car got photo'd last night. Yay!
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|Posted by: Spaz Jun 8 2014, 07:25 PM|
| Holy. Shit. I love this car.
Still getting used to the ACD working properly, in fact I mentioned it feeling weird 30 seconds into my first session on Friday night... It was a completely different car from two weeks ago. Completely. No similarities. This week was nothing short of impressive... I'm so glad I picked this car up, this setup is nearly perfect as it sits and I really can't wait for Proving Grounds. I'll get video of a couple runs up here in the next day or so, but I'm just so super happy with the car right now.
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Also, I learned that I'm faster than the 2nd place finisher in my class last year at PG... So here's hoping the field doesn't change too much.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 18 2014, 11:35 AM|
| Realigned the car again, added some camber so it's up to -2.5 in front now, hopefully that will help account for the mild understeer toward the limit. The car is incredibly confidence inspiring going into this weekend, so I have my fingers crossed that I'll come home with some hardware.
Unofficial goal is to keep my right foot flat through turn 2, but we'll see if I can pull that off. Worst case there, I end up in the marsh, haha.
Did a boost leak test last night as well, found that the throttle body shaft seals are leaking. Typical Evo IX stuff. I picked up seals and a spare TB today on my lunch break, I'll be prepping that to go into the car just in case. It's a minor leak but if I can keep the turbo speed down it'll keep heat and therefore knock down.
Also through on Grappler's Hallman Pro boost controller and got it set to a very stock 20-21 psi. Boost hits harder and is way more consistent, which is all I could have hoped to gain.
Overall, things are coming together quite nicely.
|Posted by: Banken Jun 20 2014, 03:24 AM|
| So approx. how much power are you making now?
On another thread hijacking note, I got my front dampers rebuilt and revalved, and you should have seen the old parts they sent back. They were NASTY. The bump stops had basically fallen apart. Totally worth the $500... (ouch). Except now with the stiffer, longer spring in the front the ride height got knocked up about an inch and a half...grr...
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 23 2014, 02:18 PM|
| After Proving Grounds this past weekend, my front driver's coilover is making some fun noises, lots of creaking and popping, so I'll probably have them rebuilt in August.
For power, I'm making probably 250 or so at the wheels. Still stock tune at stock boost.
As for results from this weekend...
Y'all have seen my drag passes before, so no real need for video. I got out of the hole with a 1.9 60' and ran a 13.2 @ 103mph. Not bad for stock! Hell, better than they are rated at off the lot! Best part is with more traction the car'll run 12s. AS IT SITS. Still in 4th before the 1/8th mile in typical Spaz fashion, hammering those gears like a boss.
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Autox, I did alright. The car isn't really set up for it, I need way more camber both front and rear and some toe up front as well. I coned my fastest run so I had to settle for 3 tenths slower... Which cost me 20 points in the final.
This concluded Saturday, and I was sitting comfortably in 4th with 14 points between myself and 3rd.
Sunday morning, I started out by exchanging pleasantries with an old friend:
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After that, it was game on. I knew I had to get myself confident in the car, the course, and myself, so I set out to do just that. I signed up for 4 sessions in the morning and hammered those out uneventfully, getting faster and more confident as the morning progressed.
Afternoon came around, and it was finally the moment of truth for me... The standing start time attack. This is what the car is set up for, so I was super ready to get some numbers with how good the setup felt. I ended up turning a solid 1:48 around the 2.5 mile Competition Course.
That time allowed me to leapfrog into 3rd in class, 13th overall, a solid result for a first event with the car. Unfortunately, that cone you remember me mentioning above that cost me 20 points? I missed 2nd by 10, so it's a bit of a disappointing 3rd, coupled with the fact that only 1st and 2nd got trophies (don't even get me started). Oh well, time to make some adjustments and come back stronger in the fall!
|Posted by: RalliKai Jun 23 2014, 04:27 PM|
|Preaching to the obvious but that's some nice grip in the corners.|
|Posted by: sideways Jun 23 2014, 06:24 PM|
|Mucho praise for your driving my friend. its been enjoyable seeing your driving improve. Youve stated before you wanted to make an effort to drive more smoothly, and it is showing- big time. You can readily see that youve slowed down and smoothed out your inputs on the wheel, and the results are very obvious. keep it up good sir.|
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 23 2014, 08:31 PM|
| Thanks guys! The alignment settings were all my concoction, minus some tweaking in the back so it would track a straight line, but the damper settings and spring rates I have to credit to others, who did an equally good job in the choices made in those areas. The car holds on like crazy, the limiting factor was definitely the old tires, which get greasy as they heat up, though admittedly the new alignment mostly took care of that in higher speed corners. I'm starting to get this whole car setup thing now and I'm loving it.
The thing that bugs me is that I'm limited on turn-in. That's where the center and rear diffs are open, the front is helical but it won't really do much without load either. The second I apex and roll into the throttle the car just digs in, to the point where tracking out feels like a waste of time, that it's actually adding to the distance the car travels to the next corner because I'm only reaching the limits of the car when off-throttle. Something else that will need to be addressed to go faster.
And of course, bettering myself as a driver is still top priority.
|Posted by: Grappler Jun 24 2014, 05:59 AM|
|You only took 2nd loser|
|Posted by: Tessou Jun 24 2014, 06:13 AM|
|I'm loving the tire squeal. Don't stop improving, Spaz.|
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 24 2014, 08:26 AM|
Nothing like room to improve for motivation. Stronger car and stronger me for next time!
Thanks, I don't plan on it! If I had new tires already I'd be headed to Wisconsin to USAIR this coming weekend for more, too much fun.
|Posted by: Grappler Jun 24 2014, 10:25 AM|
Haha you know I'm only giving you a hard time.
Seriously though congrats
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 26 2014, 08:33 AM|
I know you were, but it really is a motivating situation. 10 points? Going to have to step up the setup for next time. I'm going to try to dial in some different damper settings as well for different events instead of leaving the car unchanged all weekend.
I really do have a ton of new knowledge of the car to review in the coming months.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 28 2014, 05:25 PM|
|Hankook Ventus R-S3 V2s will be on order shortly. They were the tires I got beat by, might as well join them. The cars running on them this past weekend all took top honors in their classes and I've heard nothing but good things about the V1s.|
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Jun 28 2014, 11:22 PM|
|What did you have before?|
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 29 2014, 08:02 AM|
The car is currently on 3 year old damn-near-corded Z1*s.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 3 2014, 09:23 AM|
| Figured I'd post up the drag pass for you guys.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Jul 4 2014, 09:42 PM|
| Do you think you can break into the 12s bone stock?
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 6 2014, 09:55 AM|
| I do. The fastest I've left the line on street tires was with a 1.69 60', 2 tenths faster than on this pass. Each tenth in the first 60 is worth two at the other end, I could hit a 12.8 with an equivalent launch, hitting the ~1.60 limit on street tires at around 12.6.
The problem I ran into this round was the tires. I was on bald, old, and rock hard Z1s that didn't want to hook up at the line. If you turn up the volume you can hear them spin in that pass. The R-S3s (which are going on the car tomorrow most likely), like all Hankooks, have a softer sidewall that should greatly improve the launch, outside of being a general all-around improvement over the current rubber on the road course.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 6 2014, 01:47 PM|
| Also, I shall provide for you some shiny.
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|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Jul 6 2014, 09:42 PM|
|You should make a road trip to MOD 2014 this coming Saturday haha|
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 7 2014, 02:45 PM|
If only... The car is certainly ready for it, I'd just need to give it a good once-over once arriving. I'd really love to make it but I'm already having trouble getting Saturday off to go race in Iowa.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 18 2014, 11:49 AM|
| Wait, I didn't post tires? Weird.
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Hankook R-S3 V2s, so far I like them, but I will have to run higher tire pressures to keep the sidewalls stiffer. I'll probably end up with stiffer springs if I stick with these tires for next season due to how softly "sprung" the sidewalls are, they really don't compliment my 8k spring rates. Bumping up from 32 to 35psi for some spirited driving this weekend to see where that gets me and I can go from there.
Overall though, they do have a ton of grip, driving the car on the street, even hard, is pretty boring. I'm ready for more track time.
|Posted by: Banken Jul 18 2014, 11:57 PM|
| Buy a pyrometer. Don't leave tire pressure up to guesswork and subjective feel. Optimize them for maximum grip and then make small adjustments for response and balance.
You also need a pyrometer to dial in camber.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 19 2014, 05:51 AM|
It's on the list of track supplies I need to buy, along with an air tank.
I can band-aid a lack thereof through feel, times, and watching shoulder wear, but when it comes down to it, I'll swing from the nuts of cold hard data... Anything less is a guess.
Did you watch my lap at all BTW? I'd like to get some feedback from you if you have any for me.
And I did figure out my pre-apex traction issue... My lines are bad, I'm waiting too long and late apexing corners that shouldn't be late apexed, so I'm turning more before the apex. This is a result of my abundance of low speed experience from autox and DCTC, where those lines tend to be faster in the tighter corners so you spend more time on-throttle. The goal for PG2 is to keep the same braking points, but move my release points AWAY from the corner so I can turn in earlier on corners that don't require a next-corner-setup line.
GOALS AND THINGS!
|Posted by: Mazda ina Ford guy Jul 19 2014, 12:14 PM|
| ....Well I see you're pimping out your trunk lid.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: sideways Jul 19 2014, 08:09 PM|
Apologies if you know this already my friend- If not maybe I could offer a hand in helping you decide what lines to use in a scienmuhtific manner and what have you.
First and biggest thing to do is prioritize the corners. Now while there are always exceptions to the rule- generally speaking, this is actually a pretty easy/straight forward thing to do on mooost tracks. The best (general) way to prioritize the corners, is to look at the length of the straights. The longer the straight after a corner, the more important the corner- The most important corner being the one just before the longest straight.
Start by taking a map of the track, break down the lengths of the straights (For some tracks you can even find maps with the length of the straights broken down already- which makes this super handy!), and number the corners by their "importance" in this fashion. From here you can start looking at the map, and begin to discern which corners are corners youll be fine to take "conventionally", and which corners are appropriate to "cotton ball".
For example if you have a low-priority corner, followed by a high priority corner, you might be best off to fudge the line through the low priority corner, taking a later apex and sacrificing some exit speed- So that you can get on the line that lets you apex through the following higher priority corner with the highest exit speed you can get.
Use common sense from here and we start to flesh it out! For example, with the previous two hypothetical corners, if that second corner is followed by an even higher priority corner- Scrub the exit a bit to get a better line into that 3rd corner. But if the 3rd corner is far enough away from the second corner, that you can easily hit the line at full speed no matter what exit you take from corner two, then concentrate on getting as high of an exit speed as you can from that second corner.
Also be mindful of "full throttle" corners. Theres 2 types to consider here, one is a corner that is simply so wide that you can floor it the whole way through no matter what line you take, and two, is the kind of corner you can floor it through from entry to exit, but only on a specific line. If you need a specific line to go through it, then plot your previous corner appropriately, if not, i wouldnt really count this corner on your "priority" list, and would simply view it as a "straight", so to speak.
Once youve got this going- You can really start to map the track out. I find it easiest to work backwards, but whatever works best for you.
Once youve got your line- start practicing it. This is where a good GPS can REALLY come in handy. But to simplify things to begin with, you can simply think of it as weather or not you should take an early, mid, or late apex until you really "know" the line and how it sits on the track- but youll want to refine it from there. Once youve got this down, do your best not to deviate from it when not necessary, and start increasing your speed on the line.
Youll know when youre at your "critical" speeds on this line based on how much turn in you have left in the corners when youre by your apexes. If you turn in the wheel and the car still darts in hard, youve got room to enter faster. If youve got room to turn in on the exit, youve got room to exit faster. I cant emphasize enoguh: this is where things get dangerous (I know you know this, but feel obligated to say it again for my own sake and for anyone who may be reading this).
Ive said it before and Ill say it again Mr Spaz- In the years Ive known you Ive watched you grow a lot as a driver. I would genuinely like to meet up with you on the tracks one day!
|Posted by: Banken Jul 20 2014, 03:27 AM|
All I noticed just now was that you could afford to be a bit more aggressive on the apexes of a few of the corners. You seemed to be leaving a foot or two of track between you and the curbing...you paid for it, use the whole track.
And I found it interesting that your tires only squealed in one corner, but I have no idea what consequences that might have for lap times.
You might shave off a second or two if you had a bucket seat and belts, if you don't already...simply because they make it easier to carry more speed through the fast corners that aren't quite flat. At least, they make it easier to be consistent.
You don't really need an air tank... for small changes a bicycle pump will work. Unless you already have a compressor in which case, go to harbor freight and get a small tank. They're not that much. Might want to invest in a racing grade one, though.
|Posted by: sideways Jul 20 2014, 05:09 AM|
| Id also skip the air tank. if you want a bit of convenience might I suggest a small electric compressor? they make 12v air compressors that run off your battery for pretty cheap. Theyre not powerful (ie low cfm), so you wont be running air tools off of them, but they can still kick out near 100 psi over a respectable amount of time. Theyre more than adequate for pumping up tires. after my recent experiences with one first hand, I intend to pick one up purele for the convenience of it.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 20 2014, 08:13 AM|
We should definitely find a way to share some time on a track, would be a good time for sure!
I've never sat down and really analyzed the track at BIR, but I always seem to understand the general flow of a track, autox course, etc in order to get close to start. I should sit down and really look at the track and my lines nd figure out where to improve. Regardless, the problem on the track is that as I said, my low speed experience is still a point of issue I have to work around. I tend to turn in late because I'm still not used to the scale of everything. More seat time should start to fix this naturally but knowing what to look for and stop is always a plus. It's been noted by numerous instructors these past few months that if you tell me to fix something, a session or two later it's no longer an issue, so in September it'll be time to focus hard on my lines.
There were a few corners where the tires were vocal, but you have to turn it up to hear it over the wind noise. After watching it again, they actually were talking through most of them.
I'm running the stock seats with a Schroth 4-pt. I do still move a tiny bit on the leather, but I have the lap belt tight enough that I have to scoot all the way back and suck my gut in a bit to buckle it. I'm as stationary as I'm going to get without a racing bucket.
I have a small 12v compressor, but I'm impatient and find it super annoying to have to sit there for 10 minutes, especially at events where I'm running drags too and have the tires way low.
|Posted by: sideways Jul 20 2014, 01:14 PM|
Haha fair enough! Taking a few minutes per tire can indeed get old fast.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 22 2014, 08:40 AM|
| It certainly does.
So, I bumped the pressures up on the tires, and holy crap, what an improvement. I have to say at this point that these are beyond impressive. I hit a few familiar twisty ramps at my comfort level for street driving and the tires were simply silent. Not even close to the limit. Is it August 8th yet? I wanna go fast!
I'm also ready for September and clawing my way up another step on the podium at PG2.
Right now it's just settings, repair, and maintenance mode. No new parts if I can help it.
|Posted by: Wufei Jul 23 2014, 11:18 PM|
| Yeah, RS3s (and AD08s, which are pricier but last longer) have become the de-facto track tires short of R-compounds.
sideways had a lot of great points in his post. you can get a simple lap timer & data acquisition on your smartphone w/Harry's Lap Timer (iOS) and Trackmaster or RaceChrono (Android)
|Posted by: Banken Jul 24 2014, 01:36 AM|
|RS-Rs if you're poor like me (although I'm on AD08Rs at the moment).|
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 24 2014, 09:53 AM|
Dat contradiction doe.
I steered away from the AD08Rs simply due to the sub-200 treadwear rating. They were otherwise near the top of my list. Without knowing for sure what type of classing changes there will be next year, I wanted to stay safe in the 200+ group.
I already plan to pick up a "telemetry" app before BIR in September, too. I'll have to peek at RaceChrono or Trackmaster to see what they offer.
|Posted by: Banken Jul 25 2014, 07:44 AM|
| I got a 40% discount... lol.
The wet grip kicks the crap out of RS-Rs. The dry grip is...comparable, but definitely higher since they made my front shocks bottom out. They were freshly made when I got them, which is probably why the grip was so good.
Honestly I don't think a few tire wear points make much difference when you drive like this... its more about wear on the street.
That said, I will probably go back to 595SS (not RS-Rs) for the street, and buy (bigger) r-comps for the track since they might actually last longer if I don't drive them on the street...well, probably not with the way I drive on the track...hahah Just need to get some used wheels.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 25 2014, 11:59 AM|
| Yeah, treadwear doesn't really factor in for tire life, but for classing, I'd rather not be bumped up a class because my tires fall into 140-199 instead of 200+.
There's hopefully going to be a high speed autox series starting locally next year, and classing isn't defined yet so I'd rather be safe than sorry since treadwear has been mentioned in classing discussions. If this does get started, it will be the competition that my car gets build around.
|Posted by: WillDearborn Jul 26 2014, 08:18 AM|
I cannot state enough to stay away from the phone/tablet apps. All of the phone/tablet apps I've seen do metrics over time, which is good for "gee-wiz" data, but not good for analysis. You need a system that does metrics over distance, which is where you can do a comparison between runs and see what the time-gap is in sectors, while maintaining an awareness of location. In practical words, I dont care what I did on my faster lap in comparison to my slower lap at 26 seconds in (we're in different locations, and doing different things, our throttle maps are not going to be remotely in sync, nor are our lat/long data be close), I care about what we were both doing at 300 metres, 600 metres, and so forth.
Metrics over Distance (much better plots to read, they match up because they're negating time as a plotting factor and only as a variable, ala time-gap)
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Metrics over Time (hard to read as nothing syncs up, so you are left to guestimate a lot!)
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My simple advice on that whole matter, choke up and get a Traqmate (yea it's a bit of an investment, but it's worth it. It's a real data platform with a very good front end interface (very lightweight and doesn't bloat/crash like RaceStudio of AiM). If you have questions or would like some metrics to play around with (Traqview is free and I have tons of data from my Z06 that you're free to have to mess around with and get a feel for the applicaiton http://forum.traqmate.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=26 ), you know how to get a hold of me.
Which brings me to my last point... Folks, leave me the fuck alone (not you Spaz or Sideways). Stop contacting me, telling me I need to tell someone they're wrong. I had 5 people recently telling me that I needed to "come back and be an enforcer" or whatever... Hell, I logged in on some acct I forgot I made a long time ago and even tried to find what the heck you were talking about (just to satiate you to get you to leave me alone), and couldn't even find the post (or posts) you thought were stupid or out of line (so I figured I'd be productive while I was at least here). Look, you dicks thought it was a great idea to ban me, and that's fine, not really a huge deal. What this means, now, is that if you think someone is wrong, you gotta put your own big-boy pants on, sack up, and tell them, cause I'm not going to be here to play Daddy anymore.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 26 2014, 09:01 AM|
And this, right here, is why you should still be around... It's no secret I didn't want you gone in the first place. Didn't know people were trying to get you to come back though, there's a sad, unfortunate humor in that.
I'll definitely be in touch about this stuff though. Funny enough, I'm actually buying 1/8th of a Traqmnate right now as a joint gift for somebody, so I'm aware of the cost. Definitely something to think about for myself come bonus time beginning of Q1 since that's as of yet unallocated in the racing budget.
|Posted by: Banken Jul 27 2014, 07:07 PM|
| The DigSpice http://dig-spice.com/en/ is a reasonably priced, reasonably powerful data logging tool for track days. I'm pretty sure you can do data overlays with camera footage, too.
It's tiny so it fits anywhere.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 29 2014, 09:02 AM|
|Tiny, but it's simply a GPS logger with track data. While it would probably do the job, I'd just like something with more features, at least an accelerometer, and on top of that I really shy away from companies that don't have their products advertised for their international market in proper English.|
|Posted by: Banken Jul 29 2014, 02:03 PM|
|IIRC, it does have an accelerometer, since they do track G-forces. I have used one before.|
|Posted by: Grappler Jul 30 2014, 06:24 AM|
"Proper English" yeah because its so easy to translate things thats why everyone does it.
Looks like a decent product. Banken since you have actual first hand experience with it can you generate your own track instead of downloading from the select list that they have?
As cool as it would be run Laguna Seca, I think BIR Road America or my local driving school is way more likely to happen.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 30 2014, 08:33 AM|
"Important Notis!" There are companies that do translation... Last I checked we have a friend who works for one, unless he got a new job. Hell, last I checked our employer uses one. The only thing that stands to be lost in not doing so is professionalism. That's not important for a business, right?
Banken, at the end of the day, would you use one OVER a Traqmate for the $2-300 savings?
|Posted by: Banken Jul 30 2014, 03:18 PM|
| Possibly. I mean, it does cost nearly half as much less.
That said, I would buy a GoPro before I bought a logger.
On the other hand, would you use a Traqmate Basic when the HD provides vastly more real-time information, just to save $600? Having real-time lap timing with predictive lap times would be pretty sweet.
|Posted by: Spaz Jul 31 2014, 08:29 AM|
| I'll simply have to look at my non-racing car budget for next year and go from there.
I'll be back to two GoPros for the next event here, just ordered some replacement mounting hardware yesterday to replace what the black car destroyed.
|Posted by: Banken Aug 6 2014, 03:14 AM|
| Going back to the subject of tire pressures, I looked back at your comments about how increasing the pressure improved your handling, but then I realized that you were talking about street driving.
The pressure settings we generally talk about in are the cold settings (the sticker in your door jam is intended for cold tires), unless mentioned otherwise. I suspect that if the increased pressure at street temperatures (when the tires are just warm, not hot) improved your handling, you might find that when you're on the track your car might end up handling best when you start with a slightly lower cold pressure, since you'll end up with the slightly higher pressure that you like when the tires are hot (UHP tires perform best at "fresh pizza" temperatures).
One trick to use is to do a few laps to get the tires up to temperature, and then let some air out until you find the best balance of grip and response, and then wait for the tires to cool (ie, the next day). You've now found your baseline cold temperature (at least for that particular track and ambient temperature).
(Although I think you might already know that.)
|Posted by: Spaz Aug 6 2014, 08:19 AM|
Absolutely. That's one of the main focuses of my shakedown this Friday is getting the pressures dialed in when the tires are heated, seeing where they'll peak, etc, so I'm armed with that as a starting point when I go to the track for realsies.
|Posted by: Spaz Aug 10 2014, 05:04 PM|
| Tires are great, tons of grip and just LOVE to be pushed. 38psi seems to be about the sweet spot once heated, but if you let them get past 42 and push really, really hard, you'll get some pretty wicked snap understeer. Almost had my first off since last fall!
Got some pics, too, and will post video soon.
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And, a wave on the cooldown lap, lol.
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|Posted by: Spaz Aug 11 2014, 12:11 PM|
| And, video!
|Posted by: Spaz Aug 16 2014, 06:16 AM|
| Shiny bump.
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|Posted by: Banken Aug 17 2014, 10:15 PM|
|What, no dead cones? Then you aren't trying hard enough! Hehehe.|
|Posted by: Spaz Aug 18 2014, 08:31 AM|
Oh, I pissed off PLENTY of corner workers at that event. Hit 3 cones on the first lap alone in that session. I have stationary video from my last autox, and I was still too far from the cones, so I'm aiming to fix that... The wrong way apparently
Even after the hand wash before I shot that, there are still TONS of scuffs all over the bumper, skirt, and doors from probably 6 or 7 different hits. Race car problems.
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 9 2014, 08:55 AM|
| So, as I'm sure a few of you have heard, I went out this past weekend, drove the car hard, and brought it in 1st in class at MAPerformance Proving Grounds.
I'll get videos posted at some point, but I have a ton of them off two GoPros so it'll probably be a while. But for now, you'll have to do with this photo.
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|Posted by: RalliKai Sep 9 2014, 11:45 AM|
|Posted by: Meteor Sep 9 2014, 01:14 PM|
|Allow me to say congratulations as well, because I need to look at this thread more often and you've earned yourself all the present and upcoming praise too. Good job|
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 10 2014, 09:17 AM|
| Thanks, guys!
So... Proving Grounds update!
I showed up with fingers crossed on Friday morning that nothing would go wrong, partly because the 7th was a year to the day since I stuffed my VIII, and partly because I was an idiot and left my lug nut key at a buddy's so if the wheels had to come off I was fucked.
Thankfully nothing TERRIBLE happened, I ended up having to saw out part of a fender liner that attacked a tire and lost, but I did also have a little incident on the road course on what I decided was my last run, but I'll cover that later.
Saturday morning rolled around, and after a quick breakfast we hit up the driver's meeting and lined up for the drag strip. I've been fighting to get this car off the line the whole time I've owned it, and this was no exception. Being unable to cut better than a 1.9 second 60', I ran a best of 13.39, a tenth slower than previous attempts. Still great for a stock car, but still personally disappointing.
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That evening we autocrossed, and I have to say, this is where the car impressed me the most. Now, I got my start in autox, I've been doing it off and on for 7 years now... But this is the first time, hands down, that I've had a car I can say is competitive at it. I ran a 32.6 for a best recorded time, and at the end of the day was 1st in class by 120 points.
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The next morning I hit up the road course and ran my morning practice sessions uneventfully. The car was great out there, and both Ronnie and another buddy were timing my flying laps at around 1:51-2. I ended up running a 106.09 (1:46.09) in the standing start, good enough to hang onto 1st.
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On my last run, between a number of factors including fatigue, I missed my braking point into turn 2 and jerked the wheel to turn in on the racing line while off the throttle instead of easing it in along the outside... The rear end stepped out, and I almost caught it, then decided to let it go, resulting in a ~100mph 90 degree spin, and I came to rest on the grass between the infield wall and the tarmac with plenty of feet to spare. I'm unfortunately in this rut of learning the hard way, and I need to get more comfortable in my own skin above 100mph so I'm more prepared for my inevitable mistakes in the future.
As for the car itself, I feel like I'm at the limits of what the car can do. The body roll in the above images is alarmingly prevalent, and no matter what I tried that 106 second barrier just wasn't going to be broken. The tires were an immense improvement over the previous event, but at the end of the day the increase in grip has made it obvious that the suspension needs to be tighter to be able to use all of it.
I'll get videos posted in a few days as I work on them.
|Posted by: Seri Sep 20 2014, 08:17 PM|
|I've been curious, are you still planning to add an ALS like in the VIII?|
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 21 2014, 12:01 PM|
|I've still got everything for it, and it's plug and play on the IX from what I've read, but we'll see. It'll involve getting rid of the EGR so I dunno if I want to do it.|
|Posted by: Grappler Sep 22 2014, 05:48 AM|
You may also want to check with Andy with classing with that as well, I'm sure someone out there would raise a stink about it.
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 22 2014, 06:56 AM|
I can't see how, outside of adding a bung to the upper pipe (Okay, so I don't have EVERYTHING) every piece I'll be bolting on comes STOCK on the IX in other markets, hence why it's plug-and-play. I would assume it's an ASP bump for SCCA events, considering it involves modification of the intake past the compressor inlet, but there's no direct text anywhere involving factory equipment anti-lag systems. SP allowances include same-year component transfer without any region-specific qualifications.
It's really a set of supplementary components to a proper tune for it, which as I proved on my VIII, I can replicate, but without any airflow it does nothing but make noise and stress the turbine and exhaust valves, which is why I trashed that ROM. The other thing too is that the stock piping doesn't provide near enough airflow for the setup to work properly. The bore on the valve is substantial (think stock BOV), and you can do a minor throttle kick with the IAC, but at the end of the day the tiny holes in the manifold and the lack of enough metal to really drill them out without the risk of trashing a rare AND hard to source component is severely limiting. The guys who are serious about this project now are taking stock manifolds and putting -AN bungs in them.
The stock implementation is good for a negligible few psi at best once optimized, and more so a bunch of noise and light.
|Posted by: Banken Sep 22 2014, 07:39 AM|
|Methinks for these tires you need stiffer sways, especially in the rear.|
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 23 2014, 08:40 AM|
I need a stiffer something, for sure.
The front bar is impossible to change without basically dropping the front subframe, so the band-aid solution is to drill holes further up the flange as "adjustment" points to the stock bar. I will likely do this. For a rear bar, I'll have to do some shopping.
Also, my spring rates are STILL only 8k. The coilovers need to be rebuilt during the off season anyway, so the plan is to revalve them for higher rates so I can just toss a set of 10ks on when I make the jump... I just need to decide if I'm doing them immediately or not.
I went down to RS yesterday and spent like an hour and a half helping get the EvoX/Ralliart SST software working on Ron's computer, forcing us into a quick 30 minute lunch without much time to chat. He, and I agree with him, is telling me not to change too much. We haven't ever agreed on spring rates (square setups like mine are "undrivable" and "inconsistent" in his book) and he keeps pressuring me to do just the rear springs. I may start out the season on 8k/10k without other changes and go from there, as per his suggestion, and since this stuff is all cake to swap around I can't see it being a huge deal to start experimenting.
I can see myself sticking with these tires for the foreseeable future too, as they are, by far, the tire to beat when new compounds come out.
|Posted by: Grappler Sep 23 2014, 10:36 AM|
On a side note Ron would be the guy to ask. He's one of the few local guys who really pushes these cars to the limits.
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Sep 23 2014, 09:43 PM|
Which tires do you have on again?
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 24 2014, 08:22 AM|
The new compound Ventus R-S3.
I just can't look at it and agree with a more loose tail when I already don't like how loose it can get. unfortunately, I feel like I'll be compromising here... The car needs more usable front grip, which ultimately means I'm sacrificing rear grip. I'd really like to keep the setup as balanced as possible if I can.
|Posted by: RalliKai Sep 25 2014, 12:19 PM|
|While I doubt it's noticeable in normal day-to-day driving conditions, how does the lack of a wing affect you at trackdays if much at all?|
|Posted by: Meteor Sep 26 2014, 04:41 AM|
| He did say he didn't like how loose the car already feels, so I'm guessing (though not sure if correctly) the lack of a rear wing might be making the car feel less sure-footed when braking into corners.
The reduced aerodynamic drag might be increasing braking distances too, but maybe that's not as noticeable.
|Posted by: Banken Sep 26 2014, 05:20 AM|
| 90% of the serious track day people here in Japan have full-sized GT wings... It makes a big difference in stability. Apparently.
(...too poor to buy one)
I would suggest skipping the stock wing and getting a full-sized wing designed for the EVO and just taking it off when not at the track.
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 26 2014, 10:22 AM|
| That's the direction I'm leaning for sure when I do take the plunge, but aero needs to be balanced. I mean, it's an AWD car, it'll tend to understeer already as it sits as the chassis lifts at higher speeds, so more downforce on the rear only will only make that worse.
The other thing too is that I've run exclusively at BIR. There are only two corners that aero will do notable work in, and one of them is a no-lift corner for a stock Evo. I mean, a few more mph through 2 and down toward 3 won't hurt, but I don't feel like it's limiting me... Hell, napkin math says it's a difference of 15ft/sec if I'm 10mph faster by the #4 marker for 3 (which is generous for extra aero with stock power). Assuming 11 seconds through that sector, that's at most a 1 second difference.
Worth the money invested? Outside of MAYBE a safety factor, not at this point. I can gain more time over ALL 13 corners with less money invested.
|Posted by: Grappler Sep 26 2014, 10:36 AM|
You have no idea how many times a day I tell him this
|Posted by: Banken Sep 26 2014, 10:34 PM|
| If you're going fast enough for the wing to work, you'll likely better off with a bit of understeer. And as a rule of thumb, more rear downforce almost always means better lap times (at least, I read that in one of my racing books).
That said, there are a lot of front aero options for EVOs. A diffuser and some canards would be relatively inexpensive and would help balance out the rear wing. Lowering the front a bit would also help with understeer.
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 27 2014, 10:05 AM|
|I may just pick up a wing, canards, and some Alumalite over the winter... We'll see. Plenty of time to mull it over.|
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Sep 27 2014, 10:15 AM|
I went wingless for almost a year... I didn't really think I noticed much of a difference when the wing came off, but when I put it back on, it seemed noticeably more stable when accelerating hard through corners.
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 29 2014, 08:16 AM|
| Coilover rebuild
Rear sway bar
That should keep my parts budget under $1.5k and the latter two items should work together to keep a similar balance while simultaneously increasing both high speed stability and low speed rotation. The wing will dynamically decrease the effect of the rear bar as speed increases, reducing the chance of the tail getting loose.
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Sep 29 2014, 06:54 PM|
|Posted by: Spaz Sep 30 2014, 08:47 AM|
| That's awesome, but holy shit at the price...
And now Ronnie is telling me to just sell the current coilovers and do a set of Ohlins or KWv3s at 10k/12k for next season. God this is annoying.
And I know I need to figure out my setup for myself, but I just don't have the background and experience with this stuff at this point to make an informed enough decision as to what'll best fit my needs.
|Posted by: Banken Oct 1 2014, 06:16 PM|
|As long as they're rebuildable and can be revalved, I'd say upgrading would be a waste of money *at this stage.* Obviously it would be a good idea in the future if you've got cash and want better adjustability... but just dialing in the spring rates, bar rates, and alignment will make a bigger difference than buying better dampers, and for much less money.|
|Posted by: Spaz Oct 14 2014, 08:43 AM|
| I'm just going to start with a RSB and go from there, per conversations over the weekend with a few track buddies/instructors.
I can do coilovers mid-season next year if need be, probably going to use Robispec if he'll do them. I contacted Buschur today to see if he has the foggiest as to what was done to these other than springs, if anything. We'll see what he says.
|Posted by: Spaz Oct 15 2014, 08:16 AM|
| Oh, and here're some pretty colors.
|Posted by: Spaz Oct 16 2014, 08:35 AM|
| Hey guys, it's no secret that flohtingpoint and I chat occasionally. But please, whoever it is, PLEASE stop telling him that he needs to get in contact with me about stuff that's been posted here, ESPECIALLY if you're going to feed him blatant misinformation like the most recent time. I know how great of a resource he is, and if I feel the need to bounce ideas off of him, I'll totally do so on my own.
|Posted by: case Nov 5 2014, 08:21 PM|
| Just paying it forward...
PS: glad to see you're still rocking out!
|Posted by: Spaz Nov 6 2014, 09:52 AM|
The car is back on winter/storage rubber and will be going away this weekend, until the end of March at the earliest. Unfortunately there won't be any ice racing in the cards for this year after last year's issues with moisture and salt contamination on top of the water barrier in the garage. One or two days of fun isn't worth adding a full winter's worth of rust to the car once the ability to put it away dry disappears.
It just needs one last good wash, I'll need to spray down the coilovers with a lubricant, and it should be good to go. I'll be giving some love to the summer wheels too, they need some touch-up paint and lots of rubber and tar removed.
|Posted by: Rudy Nov 28 2014, 09:48 AM|
|I'm glad to see you back in the Evo game, spaz. I was very sad when you lost your viii but it looks like you saved enough to bounce back properly! Love the no wing/wiper equipped RS setup. Keep being awesome.|
|Posted by: Spaz Nov 29 2014, 05:03 PM|
Would be nice it it had no rear wiper, but that delete is something the previous owner never did. You can kinda see it in my sig, actually.
|Posted by: Alchem1st Nov 29 2014, 05:31 PM|
I have the answer!
|Posted by: Spaz Nov 29 2014, 06:06 PM|
I'd trash the motor and everything if I were to get rid of it, so that wouldn't work.
|Posted by: Alchem1st Nov 29 2014, 06:14 PM|
|I know lol; just trolling.|
|Posted by: Spaz Nov 29 2014, 06:31 PM|
Yeah, but I'd totally do it, that's the best part.
|Posted by: Rudy Nov 30 2014, 03:01 PM|
This be better imo
|Posted by: Alchem1st Dec 2 2014, 09:09 PM|
|Posted by: Spaz Dec 4 2014, 09:38 AM|
| So, I have a Rexspeed Type D lip spoiler lined up, it just has to come off of the car it's on right now, which is going to require a heated garage to make sure it's not too brittle for removal. It'll go on the car in the spring, and when I get around to getting a second trunk, it will stay on my street trunk.
Pics for example:
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Dec 4 2014, 10:27 AM|
| That one is okay. If it were the other Rexspeed one, I'd have made fun of you.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Grappler Dec 5 2014, 10:17 AM|
|You should probably pick up one of those JDM rear bumpers at the same time|
|Posted by: Spaz Dec 5 2014, 01:34 PM|
Maybe at the end of next season. Plenty of list to go through before expensive cosmetic stuff other than this and a new lip.
The Type-C looks terrible, you know I have better taste than that.
|Posted by: Rudy Dec 9 2014, 10:30 AM|
|The JDM and USDM bumpers aren't the same???|
|Posted by: Alchem1st Dec 9 2014, 10:33 AM|
|^Nope, the JDM one looks worlds better. Digging that trunk lip spoiler Spaz!|
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Dec 9 2014, 06:47 PM|
No. The JDM bumpers are a little shorter. The USDM ones need to accommodate the crash beams required here. But the JDM IX bumper is what most people go for, as it has the diffuser-looking portion. It's not a direct swap, but you'll either need to modify the rear crash beam (places sell them for $250-300, or you can pay someone to do it for $80-100) or just take yours out altogether (though I wouldn't do that).
|Posted by: Rudy Dec 9 2014, 08:34 PM|
|Wow, image searching these bumpers is hard. I can't tell which results are aftermarket and which are OEM. Can I get a side-by-side of USDM vs. JDM?|
|Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Dec 9 2014, 11:35 PM|
| JDM IX rear:
USDM VIII/IX rear:
And for kicks, the JDM VII/VIII rear:
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|Posted by: RedsunsF1 Dec 10 2014, 12:15 AM|
|The USDM rear bumper looks awesome to me. Spaz, I'm heading to California got Christmas and my friend is letting me borrow his Evo 9 for a couple of days, it should be fun!|
|Posted by: Rudy Dec 10 2014, 07:21 AM|
|Sheeeeeit, I actually thought the oem bumper was aftermarket. Looks sharp!|
|Posted by: Spaz Dec 24 2014, 10:06 AM|
| So, I'd only been sharing with individuals up to this point, but I think now that planning is officially underway that I'll share it here... But here only for now. Next year's planned livery:
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|Posted by: Falbere Dec 24 2014, 11:41 AM|
God it looks better without livery.
|Posted by: RalliKai Dec 24 2014, 05:13 PM|
|Think it looks much better without but that's me.|
|Posted by: Spaz Dec 24 2014, 09:02 PM|
|Everything but the RS Motors and Vision Speedworks logos will be required livery at any USCA event, of which I'm planning to attend a few next season. If it's going to get stickers for companies I really don't care about, I might as well add ones that I do.|
|Posted by: Banken Jan 7 2015, 04:13 PM|
|I hope they're throwing money at you instead of you throwing money at them|
|Posted by: Grappler Jan 8 2015, 06:03 AM|
|There is a lets just say slightly extravagent entry fee per event.|
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 8 2015, 09:50 AM|
| You still have to pay to play at this level. Amateur racing is still just that, even when you're on TV at regional and national events, and rules actually ban professional drivers from competing. In all honesty, this is no worse per weekend than usual, but with travel expenses on top.
That said, both RS and Vision do throw money at me, in the form of charging me less for goods and services. I have on a number of occasions left RS with no bill for some quick work or diagnostic, or for spare used parts, and have always had hours of time knocked off my bills otherwise. Affording this stuff would be a lot harder without these guys, I assure you.
|Posted by: Rudy Jan 10 2015, 01:12 PM|
| I like the look. Makes your car look like it's ready for an official...
Wait for it...
TIME ATTACK BRO!
|Posted by: Spaz Jan 11 2015, 07:58 AM|
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I just have to pick which ones I'm going to now... Outside of RA, that's happening for sure.
|Posted by: Spaz Feb 17 2015, 09:48 AM|
| Brake pads have been ordered, Hawk DTC70 fronts and DTC60 rears.
Also, a Whiteline solid 24mm rear sway bar will be finding its way into my basement tonight.
After that, I need to fix the front bumper and lip, have the frame issues addressed, and get the stock wing mounted.
And then we mess with Texas.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 1 2015, 10:04 PM|
| So, lake stuff happened. Action shots and video will be forthcoming.
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Also, one of my winter tires had a slow leak, probably bead or valve stem... Note the past tense there. Car came out of storage yesterday so I could get it ready to race by the end of this month, had to fill the tire before bringing it back to the house; it was flat. Put 29 psi in it with the 12v compressor to get it home, then once I got it home I fired up the 20 gallon and topped off all 4 to 36. Drove it last night to a buddy's and back, and it was fine. Drove it to the lake and it was fine. Drove it from the lake to dinner and it seemed fine. Left dinner and noticed the wheel was off center. Figured I'd knocked something off in the alignment in one of the rough spots on the lake and didn't notice it before, it happened last year and quite frankly an alignment is on my list so I couldn't give two shits if it's off now, it'll be addressed even if it's fine. So I jump on the highway and everything's fine, there are 'thunk' noises every little bit as chunks of snow and ice come free from the suspension, and then I hear one from the back of the car and get a hard wobble. Turn down the music, don't hear anything, but the car feels kinda weird and vague. get into the right lane and then I hear that telltale sound... Lost a tire. Pull off and sure as shit, it's the leaky one. Touch it and it's hot as hell, so it had been driven for quite some time with little air in it. So apparently my slow leak turned into a big leak, and now it's a massive leak because the sidewall isn't connected to the tread anymore. I'll have to check it closer to see if I picked anything up with it in the parking lot at dinner, because that to me seems more likely than it being fine all day on the lake and then magically depressurizing enough over an hour period to mess with wheel position and blow up. Or I can just throw it away, spend $120 on a new one, and not give any fucks.
Oh well, cheap as shit winter tires that have 500 miles on them, I can throw a single tire at it and be fine.
And since I'll need to lift the rear end up to put the new tire on, I might as well lift both sides and toss that new sway bar in.
|Posted by: Grappler Mar 3 2015, 07:34 AM|
|So what were you rolling around on this morning?|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 3 2015, 09:34 AM|
|I bit the bullet and went to Discount Tire, they had it in stock. And then they forgot to give me my center cap back and I had to drive back for it. I swear, I can't catch a break with them... I keep getting forced into giving them business, and every single time they make a point to do something to piss me off and make me want to never go back, especially with how lengthy the list has become.|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 4 2015, 09:33 AM|
| So... Bad news time.
I took the car into the body shop yesterday, and however bad I was expecting, it wasn't this. Banken called it on the risk of purchasing a car with a previous accident.
The chassis isn't square. One side is longer than the other and there's a spot on the frame under the driver's footwell that's pushed up a full inch and it's throwing everything off, effectively pulling that side of the car together. That's why it dog-tracks and why the rear eccentrics are maxed to try to get those wheels pointed forward. Even worse, it's pulling the rear mount of that front control arm up and messing with front suspension geometry, meaning the subframe is bent too. In order to resolve this, the interior (minus dash) and driveline need to be removed from the car.
This is something that was caused by a major accident, of which the car only has one... And it should have been totaled out based on the cost of this repair had the body shop done their due diligence.
I have some thinking to do, but at this point, I'm just going to rip it like last season. The car made its way onto two podiums as it sits, so at the end of the day it could be a lot worse for how things are. I may do a shell swap, I may fix the chassis and throw some goodies at it in the process, we'll see. Probably a next winter project if I do.
|Posted by: Kiroshino Mar 4 2015, 11:33 AM|
| Wow. That sounds bad.
Still, like you said, it got you pretty far without you knowing about this. So... yeah, I think you still have some time with it and to think about what you want to do.
|Posted by: Rudy Mar 4 2015, 11:47 AM|
| Wow, I can't believe they didn't use a frame straightener to get everything in order, and instead just compensated for the bent frame by using wonky suspension settings.
That sucks, man.
[ Post made via Mobile Device ]
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 4 2015, 01:15 PM|
| I CAN believe it, plenty of shady people out there in the body world. The shop that worked on my VIII twice was shady on my behalf, billing my insurance company to fix crap that wasn't accident related, but that they could work in to make more money off the job.
I think it may end up being a project for next winter, I may end up stripping it, removing the sound deadening, and overall using this as a chance to take a bunch of weight out and upgrade bracing.
|Posted by: Grappler Mar 5 2015, 07:02 AM|
|Sounds like some secret squirrel weight saving stuff.|
|Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 5 2015, 01:52 PM|
| I wouldn't necessarily get rid of it since it's a good car, i would for sure focus on getting it straightened out, hopefully it's not by much it needs to be straightened.
My friend Brendon crashed his evo to a wall at the track because brake reasons, he straightened it back and now it's a Time trial / Wheel to wheel champ. I'm not saying make it a all track car but i just know it can be straightened and with the right parts it can be a beast still
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|Posted by: Spaz Mar 6 2015, 10:43 AM|
| Ronnie told me to bring it by the shop on Monday and we'll go over it. He's got what I'd consider a questionable body shop as a neighbor who I'm sure would have no issue getting things closer to straight in a less than scientific manner if it came down to it.
Also I'm switching weight classes in the USCA to GTS and not pulling weight out, after strategy discussions with him and another fellow RS Motors driver. The best I could do in GTL would be 2nd, considering there's no way I'm beating the other guy I'm going down with, but if I'm in GTS we could possible get two Vegas invites out of 1 event depending on what the rest of my field looks like... Right now I'm guaranteed at least a 3rd place finish with there only being 3 cars in GTS, and both are in the Novice classing for the time attack. One is a Mk5 R32 that I'm not worried about, the other is a C7 Stingray that I'm afraid of simply because I've seen them take down ZR1s.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 18 2015, 08:56 AM|
| Plans changed as far as the frame is concerned, I'm going to be having it checked out across town at one of the best shops for it in the 'Cities... But I have to get it back on the ground first.
Brakes are done, the axle is free from the hub, just have to pull it from the trans and change the seal, started trying to tackle the sway bar but I think I'll have to cut the links off the car. One nut locked up about halfway out and the other won't budge... And they're allen-hold so I can't get any decent force on them. Might just swing the car down to RS and have them do it. Other than that though, it's good to go.
Me, on the other hand? I've been memorizing the road course at TMS and watching the registration fill up with people I know I can't beat unless they break. Oh well, I planned to get into the final on points over the course of the season, so here's to the start of that.
|Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 18 2015, 11:18 PM|
| Interesting, I did not know they are allen hold?
Memorization of the track will help out alot for sure so you can prep for the next turn.
Hopefully everything goes according to how you want everything to go at the shop, that's good they have a good reputation, let's see what the results are.
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 19 2015, 08:27 AM|
| Yeah, I'm hoping for good news, a buddy told me last night that "they do things different there" so I hope that means more efficiently for my sake.
I really feel like I'm running out of time to work on the car, and it's scary. I could technically button it up and let'r'buck, but I'd prefer not to if I can help it. I'll be attacking it hard tomorrow so hopefully I can have it back on the ground and ready to go with at least the axle seal done. I'll be at the sway links with the MAPP torch too to see if I can free them up that way, since I really don't want to pull the struts to get in there with a grinder if it can be avoided.
In other news, as of today I'll have been an Evo owner for 5 years. Time flies!
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 24 2015, 08:39 AM|
| Car is back on the ground, the next two nights are going to be the most hectic shit in the world. Reasons I'm freaking out:
1: I'm hauling my summer wheels and tires down there. They're clean and touched up and ready to go, but the temps up here aren't allowing me the liberty of mounting them.
2: I'm driving the car round-trip. We convinced the friend who was going to be trailering me to compete himself, so he's pulling his own car now.
3: Stickers aren't on the car yet.
4: Still need to change the oil.
5: Staying with Tessou on Thursday night.
|Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 24 2015, 10:55 PM|
| I would freak out if I was staying with Tessou as well.
What are the temps there?
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 25 2015, 08:52 AM|
| It's been in the high 30s in the garage in the mornings this past week, so the tires have been fine in there, but it'll be in the 20s outside overnight in Ames which means I don't want them on the car.
I need to get the oil changed tonight and am going to try to get the car washed so I can get stickers on. I found out on Monday that my tire guy is no longer local and therefore I can't get stickers from him, but yesterday I managed to fill that vacancy on the front fenders, scoring 20% off my new gloves in the process. You can bet I'll be making use of that to go pick up a suit and shoes in the near future as well.
|Posted by: Grappler Mar 25 2015, 10:26 AM|
|My FC has a rather large vacant space on you know the entire car I wonder if bigger stickers mean a bigger discount? It works with HP after all.|
|Posted by: Spaz Mar 26 2015, 08:57 AM|
| If only! Well, in some cases it does, but generally there are written agreements and all of that fun stuff going into it.
In any case, here it is in the wild.
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There're still a few stickers left to go on once I pick them up in Texas, basically the whole of the Optima package.
|Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 26 2015, 09:51 AM|
|Well Spaz, good luck this weekend!! Let me know how everything goes|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 10 2015, 09:30 AM|
| It's been much longer than I had wanted to post an update here, but here I am, finally. It's probably no secret by now but here's the breakdown of the standings:
2nd in autox
4th in speed stop
7th in design and engineering
Completed the road rally (this is all or nothing for points)
9th in hot lap (250hp FTL)
That was all good for 4th overall in class, I missed the podium by 2.2 points out of a 125 point field. If you want any idea of how the competition was at the event, the points record for a single event was broken not once, but TWICE (first was by my tuner, Ronnie). People came with their A-games and it showed. I'm exceptionally proud of how well I did, and that I stood on a regional-level podium in one of the competitive events.
Full results are viewable here: http://clubregistration.net/clients/usca/results/overall.cfm?eventID=6453
Now, here's the best part... All of this is good for 6th overall for the entire season. The top 5 in every class at the end of each season are handed invitations to the Vegas invitational. Now, here's the kicker; those who have won their class at an event already have invites, and are counted out of points contention, putting me currently in an effective 4th place for series points. Should I maintain that, I'll get my invite.
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 10 2015, 09:31 AM|
| So, the car was at Centerline in Vadnais Heights this week to look into the alignment and frame issues. Those guys deal with all sorts of cars, from everyday street cars to street rods to full on drag cars, and as I was told "however bad it is, you won't surprise us, we've seen it all." They were 100% confidence inspiring through the whole process and while it took them a few days to have a frame rack open, they took care of the job quickly and completely with my deadline of Friday in mind.
As it turned out, the frame is straight as an arrow. There were assumptions made by the previous shop based on the limited data they had, and they turned out to be wrong. The whole issue, as initially suspected, was in the rear subframe. So with some slight tweaking and modification, everything old is new again... Or at least well enough within spec to feel that way.
Cost me a couple hundred bucks and the car's driven the best it ever has. Bring on the track time!
|Posted by: Tessou Apr 10 2015, 09:34 AM|
|Extremely relieved to see that the frame isn't fucked up. Wouldn't want to think about you getting rid of that car.|
|Posted by: Grappler Apr 10 2015, 09:39 AM|
| moarrrrr camber
Just kidding excited to see this thing at the PDX need more ride alongs since my car is still in storage :/
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 10 2015, 08:40 PM|
| There will absolutely be ride alongs, since I'm just looking to shake down the car with the new alignment. Next competitive event isn't until June, so I'll have time to address things and go from there.
The car still needs the wing and rear sway bar installed, along with all of the front bumper stuff addressed. Also needs to get down to RS for a proper tune. Not much left!
|Posted by: Lonely_Driver Apr 13 2015, 04:46 AM|
| Really glad the frame is ok and all the issues are sorted out.
Can I get an autograph before you become a star?
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 14 2015, 08:17 AM|
I only sign boobs. It's a religious thing.
So, we ran counter-clockwise at the PDX on Sunday, and I messed up the front right tire pretty good... It's below the wear bars on the outside edge, inside edge still has half its rubber left, the remaining 3 all have half their rubber left... I'm kind of upset. I need to figure out why the car is leaning so hard on the outside front tire still, maybe it's time to drop the coilovers and stiffen the damping up, we'll see.
|Posted by: Kiroshino Apr 14 2015, 12:00 PM|
I'm sure that won't be a problem...
Stupid question: Have you tried over-inflating the tires?
|Posted by: Banken Apr 14 2015, 08:29 PM|
|Slightly disappointed that I was only half right, but glad the problem was an easy fix. Hehe.|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 15 2015, 09:03 AM|
In the past, yes, but I was only down 1-2psi from where I was tracking them at last year.
Yeah, I was expecting awful news. I got super lucky.
I have a couple weeks to get things more dialed in on the car before the next shakedown, I need to make note of where the dampers are set right now and then play with them. Might get around to lowering the front end too, and I'd really like to get the rear bar in and set.
Pretty sure I'm going to order a set of 2013 production Rivals at a big discount and might eventually get another RS-3 and shave it.
|Posted by: Kiroshino Apr 15 2015, 10:00 AM|
| If you're running counter-clockwise, can you increase the spring rate of the front passenger-side coilover so that it doesn't lean as much?
I don't really know much about this topic, but I'm guessing Nascar has some ideas you can try.
|Posted by: Banken Apr 16 2015, 07:52 AM|
|Usually on a road course braking power and stability is more important than maximum cornering power, so asymmetric setups are rare.|
|Posted by: Kiroshino Apr 16 2015, 08:10 AM|
|Oh, okay. When he said "counter-clockwise", I though he meant on a circular track. Forgot that also meant direction on a road course. My bad.|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 16 2015, 08:27 AM|
| Nope, all this car sees for tracks are road courses.
I ordered Rivals last night, and also summers for the Yedda too. My bank account is wounded.
|Posted by: Grappler Apr 16 2015, 10:40 AM|
| Its super effective...
Now I want to order tires and chase you lol
or I could just save the money for the other car and pass you
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 17 2015, 09:16 AM|
| Super effective indeed.
I took baselines of the coilovers last night, got the bumper off and removed the lip, and picked the new lip up from paint. Should get it back together tonight.
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 18 2015, 07:41 AM|
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|Posted by: Seri Apr 18 2015, 07:49 AM|
|Stop tempting me, Spaz. I'm already working towards an S30. I don't need an Evo, too.|
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 19 2015, 07:43 AM|
| I've got a tentatively scheduled shoot next week so I'd recommend opening this thread with caution if that's the case. He wants to do some rig stuff for sure, might do some light painting as well since he mentioned that previously.
I'll also probably be doing some of my own here shortly as well.
|Posted by: Spaz Apr 24 2015, 08:38 AM|
| My buddy has some parts for his rig on order, so we held off for now... Didn't stop me from getting a few of my own.
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|Posted by: Spaz May 7 2015, 04:14 PM|
| Nothing huge, but I attended a local autox on Sunday, haven't done that in FIVE YEARS. I realized I never got kicked out of Novice class when I was attending before, so I decided after a few people asked if I was going to just sign up and win the class to get the boot, which I did by 1.6 seconds. Had a great time, saw a ton of old friends, and played with the dampers a bit on the car. Didn't get much of a good read on anything though, since as you'll see in the video, the surface was AWFUL. That's not to say I didn't learn much though, because I found out I need to be a lot more flexible than I am as far as driving strategies, as pushing hard yielded horrible times, and conservative corner entry was faster but a combination of the two would have done wonders, and I just couldn't find that happy medium. Something to work on!
|Posted by: Spaz May 23 2015, 11:16 AM|
| Just some burning rotors from last night's track day.
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The case on the GoPro was actually warm after 12 minutes on track despite the falling ambient temp.
|Posted by: Spaz May 26 2015, 09:45 AM|
| A buddy's photos from the track:
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He does very good work, I'd recommend checking out his Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/124979639@N02/
|Posted by: Alchem1st May 31 2015, 08:39 PM|
|Caught a ride in the Spaz Evo today! Ya'll be jelly.|
|Posted by: Grappler Jun 2 2015, 06:11 AM|
Idk... I do see that car an awful lot.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 2 2015, 08:22 AM|
You see it under a cover at the house or in the garage with the wheels off more than you see it on the road.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 13 2015, 07:38 AM|
| Wow, it's only been a couple weeks, but holy shit do I have a bunch of updating to do here...
Two weeks ago, I went to the AWD Army meet/autox in Xenia, OH. I probably would have skipped it, but being a staff member and in charge of the car show my hands were a bit tied.
I left work at 4:30pm as per usual on Saturday, and hopped into the car to start the drive to the event. Between various stops and the weather, I ended up not getting to my buddy's in Indiana until the sun was coming up. From there, we drove to Kil-Kare Speedway in Ohio, where I unloaded the car, helped with some setup, tech'd the car, and then took a 2 hour nap in the back seat.
Woke up, walked the course, and ran into a couple other IDWers as well; MetalMan777 and Alchem1st. Both of whom are awesome dudes I wish I could have spent more time chatting with.
Can't of course forget about the actual racing. Didn't run the GoPro for some dumb reasons, mainly laziness, but I was happy with the performance of the car over the day. The rear end was loose enough with the sway bar off-throttle, but I would have appreciated more on-throttle rotation. Time to do the rear diff mod I guess. Ended up in 4th place in class.
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Now, last weekend was my second USCA event of the season, this time at National Corvette Museum Raceway in Bowling Green, KY. Took Friday off and drove down through the day, meeting up with other RS Motors guys along the way. Saturday morning rolled around and we headed to the track, via the car wash, and it was game time.
After registration and driver's meeting, I stopped by the Design & Engineering tent first, to get the judging out of the way... Which took forever to start, forcing me to wait for a while, but I heard it was a shitshow all day so in hindsight I'm not bothered at all. For a competitive event, I was to run the Speed Stop in the morning, which I headed to after D&E.
The Speed stop was not one that I appreciated. The last event was very handling-centric, as that type of event should generally be. This event used a couple slight corners on the road course with a chicane in the middle of them before the stop box... And it basically turned out to be a drag strip, so I did awful, a full second and a half off the top times, putting me 8th in class.
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With the afternoon came the autox, which in turn brought brutal heat and humidity to the everyone and everything... While I myself was pretty uncomfortable, the car was down on power due to the heat, and any attempts to resolve that were futile. water sprayed onto the radiator insta-boiled, the intercooler was a big box of heat soak, and any water sprayed onto the tires instantly evaporated off without doing much of anything. Tires were sprayed 3 times between runs, radiators twice. I finished 5th in class.
That evening we had the road rally and welcome party, which looped us out of and back into Bowling Green, finishing for the party at Holley Performance's facility there. Afterward we went back to the track for some final prep on some of the cars for the road course the following day, and then to bed from there.
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The road course... Man, I cannot say enough good things about this track. 10/10 will race every single year if I can help it. I have NEVER had this much fun pushing a car on a track. The day wasn't without its casualties, however, when a V8 S14 stopped on track and the driver got out, forcing us all to end the session early, then in the second session a pristine restored C2 Stingray found the wall, punctured the fuel tank, and went up in flames. Safety response was very quick and the chassis was saved, and thankfully the owner intends to restore it yet again. In the afternoon, I was able to get a few clean sessions in, including my 4th and final session (by choice) where I started in front and had nothing but clean air and no traffic the entire time. My times were pretty sad unfortunately, and the car needs a lot of attention to the suspension to be faster.
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I'll get video for the speed stop, autox, and road course posted here once I get it sorted and edited... Also I believe I never posted anything from TMS, I'll have to get on that as well.
|Posted by: Spaz Jun 29 2015, 07:41 AM|
| Still in full racing hangover mode, but this weekend was AWESOME.
MN Time Attack's second event (The first one coincided with BIR last weekend, where I took 1st in the CWSCC classing and 2nd in MNTA, two birds, one stone.) was at DCTC, and being in competition, this is the first time I can say I've ever driven a car at 10/10ths on that track.
I took 1st in class by default, as I was the only Street AWD car to show up, but I took 2nd FTD out of the 25 cars that showed up, edging out some of the unlimited cars on full slicks by over a second, only being beaten by what we refer to as the Miata thing, a ridiculously hacked up boosted Miata track car that's fast as fuck.
Also went on a short cruise last night with a bunch of peeps and got a decent roller out of it thanks to a buddy:
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|Posted by: Spaz Jul 5 2015, 06:47 AM|
| A picture says 1000 words... And all of them make me happy! Just with the suspension tuning I've done, the car is definitely rolling less, got a few from BIR and DCTC:
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Also going to throw in a shot from Cars and Coffee yesterday, because why not.
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From here, I'm into my mid-season break, where I'm going to go fast on my bicycle instead of the car for the most part, to try to get back into shape. Also, the car will go under the knife a few times.
Firstly, and most importantly since I'm stuck daily driving this right now, is brakes. Front rotors are basically gone (the slots are completely worn off) and the pads are low enough that while there's still material, the backing plates are touching the lip on the edge of the rotor. New parts are enroute; A set of Centric blanks for the rotors, and I'm making the switch to Girodisc Raybestos ST-43 pads. A nearly equivalent track pad that's less endurance-y and has a lot less metallic content. It'll still be plenty of pad for the car and what I do with it, but it should eliminate the substantial rotor wear and the metallic brake dust that's been rusting to the irreplaceable $4000 wheels. Word on the street is that they'll also be a bit louder too, so at least I'll get some free entertainment out of it.
I'm still planning to send the coilovers off to Robispec in Cali, but need to figure out when. I also need to fix and sell the Jetta and buy a truck, or vice-versa before I can do this (I'm shopping on Monday, might buy immediately if I find the right one). Plan at the moment, without having talked to Robi yet, is to valve for 12k to "future-proof" the setup and then run 10k for now on softer damping settings. I don't see myself ever running more than 12k on this setup. By the time I have the car that far dialed for the track that I need practically unstreetable rates, it'll be time for a much better set of coilovers anyway.
The other big thing that's happening is aero. I'll need it at Road America in August, and I'll need it at BIR in the fall if I want to push toward my first phase goal that I've mentioned before: I want to go through turn 2 FLAT OUT. No brakes, no lifting, I want to keep my right foot planted on the loud pedal straight through the braking zone and past the apex... Entry speed should be 120-125, apex speed 130+, and beyond needing to grow my balls to meet my expectations, I'll need a lot of stick at both ends of the car. Stock wing is going back on, I'll be adding the OE gurney flap to it, as well as a vortex generator, and I'll be figuring out something in front as well... An APR piece if I can swing it, otherwise I'll do a cardboard mockup and transfer it to a sheet of alumalite.
And I have just under 2 months to make this all happen... Spreading myself thin, as always.
|Posted by: Kiroshino Jul 5 2015, 05:58 PM|
|Wow, that's a pretty ambitious plan you have there. Two months might be doable. Good luck!|