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> HomieGohan | Track car, Global Time Attack | Nasa Utah
Banken
Posted: Apr 8 2013, 05:10 PM


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Get another stock block from the dealer engraved with your original serial number.

Putting an engine from an older car into a newer one is illegal.

And $2500 is a shitton for a used engine, especially one that has been thrashed.

There's not reason to spend thousands of dollars on a built engine when you just started racing.
RedsunsF1
  Posted: Apr 8 2013, 05:40 PM


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QUOTE (Banken @ 30 minutes, 19 seconds ago)
Get another stock block from the dealer engraved with your original serial number.

Putting an engine from an older car into a newer one is illegal.

And $2500 is a shitton for a used engine, especially one that has been thrashed.

There's not reason to spend thousands of dollars on a built engine when you just started racing.

You set a lot of good points.

I think you and Spaz pointed great ideas and i'm pretty sure i'll be going with a stock block arp head studs and Cosworth head gasket.

I'll let you guys know soon what exactly went wrong.
Spaz
Posted: Apr 8 2013, 09:17 PM


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QUOTE (Banken @ 4 hours, 6 minutes ago)
There's not reason to spend thousands of dollars on a built engine when you just started racing.

Right, because making sure you're putting together a car that can stand up to the punishment for years to come is completely stupid.

Nobody is saying it has to be some ridiculous 6768 11.5:1 LR 11k rpm build... Look at my motor, I bumped compression by .2 but basically bulletproofed the thing, and for less than a factory longblock would have cost me. I netted damn near nothing from it performance-wise, but gained everything in dependability.
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RedsunsF1
  Posted: Apr 19 2013, 08:42 PM


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Motor is out!

It's so nice having the motor out for the first time and being able to inspect every little inch, tomorrow i'll go purchase blue tape to start unplugging the hoses and take off the manifold to get to the heads to find out what needs to be done.

My friend took my turbo and will be doing a port and polish and will do the same thing with my manifold. I'll be looking into getting a new dp and get rid of the Cobb dp. New clutch will be done as well while the motor is out, my flywheel looks in great shape after being ran at the track biggrin.gif i'll resurface it unless I get an after market one for lightweight and better performance. Oh yeah AC is gone!! biggrin.gif

I'll more pictures once I have everything taken apart

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This post has been edited by FC_spec on Apr 19 2013, 08:52 PM
Filphil
Posted: Apr 19 2013, 10:18 PM


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I saw you said cooling was your priority but you're doing yourself a disservice by not sealing around your heat exchangers with ducting.

Seal off the top of your radiator with layers of strong duct tape and use signs to make the ducts around your radiator and intercooler if you want an inexpensive way to do try it out. The idea is to get the air THROUGH the intercooler, radiator, and oil coolers rather than around them.

Here's a shiny example:

user posted image

Also you're using BC coilovers?! I use them on my ms3 but that was because at the time it was one of maybe 3 options available and had adjustable camber plates for the front. If I had to do it all again I would have gone to AST/Vorshlag and sent them measurements to fab me up a set.
RedsunsF1
  Posted: Apr 19 2013, 10:41 PM


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Yep, BC coilovers and love them! They handle amazing with my suspension setup
Filphil
Posted: Apr 20 2013, 06:45 AM


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Sounds good, man. What do the wrx's do for camber adjustment in the rear?

You mentioned lap battle? Are you doing Nasa TT?

I love the approach you've taken without adding much power and concentrating so much on what truly matters.
I read a pretty decent blog post the other day and I think it may be of some value to you.
http://www.elliottcaras.com/lessons-learne...om-racing-cars/
RedsunsF1
  Posted: Apr 26 2013, 06:54 PM


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#uck yeah!!!

Broken head gasket!! heads and block are in great shape w00t2.gif
THE_HONDA_CG2
Posted: Apr 26 2013, 09:10 PM


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user posted image

Does this mean that we'll get more news on your car soon? Also, estimated time till its back on the road? biggrin.gif
RedsunsF1
  Posted: May 2 2013, 02:57 PM


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QUOTE (THE_HONDA_CG2 @ Apr 26 2013, 09:10 PM)
http://cache.ohinternet.com/images/a/a1/Awww_yeah.jpg

Does this mean that we'll get more news on your car soon? Also, estimated time till its back on the road? biggrin.gif

Yeah smile.gif Putting the car back together now to get it running.

Doing some small upgrades and here's a couple picture's of the HG and the block. New clutch, ARP head studs, Cosworth HG on the way. I will be purchasing a new Grimmspeed cross pipe, the heads are getting dropped of at Pro machine ( Local machinist shop) to get resurfaced this week. Car should be getting back together soon!

AC Delete! Becauseracecar
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Port and polished turbo
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And here's the issue. You can see where the HG went bad on the towards the bottom on both sides.
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Block got inspected and in good shape!
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Spaz
Posted: May 2 2013, 08:19 PM


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ARP H11s, I hope. Standard ARPs are garbage.
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THE_HONDA_CG2
Posted: May 2 2013, 08:21 PM


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Yes! You can get the car back together in time for this months race right? Because that would be sweeeeeeeeet! biggrin.gif

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RedsunsF1
  Posted: May 3 2013, 07:06 AM


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The race this month is tomorrow so I won't be able to attend, i'll be out next month for sure and hopefully if everything works according to plan i'll be going to California in July to race at Buttonwillow.

Spaz, I've heard of the heavy duty H11's and people told me to stick with oem's or just standard ARP head studs would be fine since i'm not aiming for power. I'm debating returning these and purchasing oem with a Cosworth head gasket.
Spaz
Posted: May 3 2013, 09:57 AM


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QUOTE (FC_spec @ 2 hours, 50 minutes ago)
Spaz, I've heard of the heavy duty H11's and people told me to stick with oem's or just standard ARP head studs would be fine since i'm not aiming for power. I'm debating returning these and purchasing oem with a Cosworth head gasket.

Stardard ARPs will at best be no better than OEM. And OEM are stretch-type and I just wouldn't trust them. Had a bit of a bad experience with stretch studs, $4400 worth of bad experience, to be exact.

Basically, you have nothing to lose by overbuilding in the sealing sense. I mean, I'm not saying go out and o-ring the block, but at the end of the day a stud you know you never have to worry about is ideal.
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RedsunsF1
  Posted: May 3 2013, 11:21 AM


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Gotcha thanks for the head up man.

I have one more question please, I guess the rule with ARP once you install them, torque them to spec, install the motor back in the car and it goes through a heat cycle (pretty much turn it on let it run till it warms up) then i'll have to pull the motor back out to re-torque the bolts? I got many of my questions answered on Nasioc but some people told me to not worry about re-torquing them and other's told me other wise.

Looks like these are some options that we have available at our local shop.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/catalog_se...words=arp+studs
Spaz
Posted: May 3 2013, 11:48 AM


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I've never retorqued head studs. Doesn't mean it isn't recommended, but I've just never done it.

I'm using MAP's standard duty studs. I didn't have the money for H11s at the time but didn't want to do ARPs. They've repeatedly tested stronger than the ARPs so I went for it. Head's been on and off the car 3 times on these same studs with no issue. Could be worth a look for you.
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RedsunsF1
  Posted: May 24 2013, 02:33 PM


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Received my parts and I'll be putting the car back together this coming week. Thanks so much for the helpful information Spaz! I returned the ARP's and ordered the MAP bolts. Good people and quick on answering my emails.

I'm having my friend help me put the Motor back together but at the same time I want to learn. I have done my reading and I would like to get some thing's clarified happy.gif

First, when installing the new MAP bolts should i hand tight them down first then torque them down to spec? For Subaru I got some specs from great local shops here of 30-60-85 with L19 or 30-60-90.
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My final question, after I have everything installed and back together should I take it in to have a down leak/compression test to make sure everything is running safe? I will be taking it to my tuner to get a re-tune since I got a couple things port and polished and new cross pipe.

Thanks guys again for all the great information! June 22 is my next race awesome.gif w00t2.gif derp.gif

This post has been edited by FC_spec on May 24 2013, 02:35 PM
Spaz
Posted: May 24 2013, 03:30 PM


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Yes, you want to hand tighten them all the way down until the dog tooth bottoms out. I'd go 25-45-75-90, then let it sit for a while, and retorque to 90 again.

A leakdown test is definitely worth it if you want some piece of mind, but I don't bother with compression tests anymore. I've got 25k on my current motor with no idea what compression started at, nor what it is now. All I know is that it pulls hard and has no hiccups, and that's what matters.
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RedsunsF1
  Posted: Jun 5 2013, 06:26 AM


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About done. Engine will be going back into the car this weekend.
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Banken
Posted: Jun 5 2013, 07:11 AM


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Shoulda got fresh rings~ hehehe...
s12drifter
Posted: Jun 5 2013, 08:19 AM


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I find it funny everyone use's the same engine stand hahaha! good stufff!!! love the suburu smell in here <3
Spaz
Posted: Jun 5 2013, 07:38 PM


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QUOTE (s12drifter @ Today, 11:19 AM)
love the suburu smell in here <3

I dunno, to me it just smells a little bit... Flat.

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THE_HONDA_CG2
Posted: Jun 5 2013, 07:43 PM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 4 minutes, 44 seconds ago)
I dunno, to me it just smells a little bit... Flat.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/cms...0e.jpg~original

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RedsunsF1
  Posted: Jun 17 2013, 06:29 AM


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And the car is up and running smile.gif
RedsunsF1
  Posted: Jun 20 2013, 07:44 AM


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Looks like I installed one of the hoses at the incorrect spot. I'm at work so I can't look at my engine. Would anyone know where the other end of this hose connects too please that connects to the Intake Manifold?

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What I did wrong was I connected the hose on the right side of this piece to the Intake manifold which is incorrect.
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Not sure where the hose that connects to this piece would belong too.

This post has been edited by FC_spec on Jun 20 2013, 07:59 AM

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