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icedagger
Posted: Nov 5 2008, 02:42 AM


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Nope. You might be getting lagged acceleration due to missing your brake points.
DigiBunny
Posted: Nov 10 2008, 01:32 AM


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I was able to run Iro at 3'04 with an RX-8 tuned by two points. I only jumped like two or three times, which was pure chance of sliding off the rail when I braked.

So my question is, would this be a respectful time?
MonkeyMarc
Posted: Nov 14 2008, 04:22 AM


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unfortunately, the answer to that will be no. sad.gif
usually what you should do is check out the online ranking site:
initialD v4 Online TA Rankings - Be Sure To Click v1.5(:
if you're about, say at the most 3 seconds(?) of the top time,
then i guess you can brag all you want about it laugh.gif
icedagger
Posted: Nov 23 2008, 09:21 PM


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^ Well, it's going to be quite the challenge getting within 3 seconds of the top time if you only have 2 tuning points. laugh.gif

@Digibunny: You probably want to aim for around 2'49 if you're just starting out and haven't tuned your car that much yet. Just keep trying and you're sure to improve. smile.gif
DigiBunny
Posted: Nov 27 2008, 02:00 AM


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I just compared V4 with 3 in irohazaka, same cars. Funny thing is, V3 FEELS like its faster...But evidently my speedometer shows me slowing down to 70's. =o=
If it means anything, the RX-8 I had was upgraded two times...(Cant tell. Machine's in Jap. I just look at the numbers.) Even when I start jumping the turns my time is still around 3'17 on V3.

Im excited to try mah new LEET skills on V4. Even If there is a physics difference, Applying what I learned should help me get to at least 2'57.


icedagger
Posted: Nov 27 2008, 08:06 AM


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v3 is generally faster than v4, except on Iro. ID4 Iro is roughly 15 seconds faster than IDAS3 Iro.

ERIC?
Posted: Nov 28 2008, 05:42 PM


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OT: are there any team here from hongkong? we would like to ask where do you usually play?pls PM me... thanks
DigiBunny
Posted: Dec 1 2008, 02:21 AM


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Quick question here.

What's up with the downhill part of Tsukaba OB? >.<
icedagger
Posted: Dec 1 2008, 02:48 AM


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^ Huh?

Why? What's wrong with it?
DigiBunny
Posted: Dec 1 2008, 04:13 AM


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on the uphill i dont have issues, but once i start going down things get iffy and my speed starts dropping to 110. maybe i dont know the map, but its more of an issue of "what gives? i cant go faster than 120?"
icedagger
Posted: Dec 1 2008, 04:45 AM


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You need to brake for certain turns. Not doing so causes your car to oversteer and lose traction temporarily. When this happens you also get a severe acceleration penalty. Once you get this penalty there's nothing you can do about it but wait for it to go away.



DigiBunny
Posted: Dec 2 2008, 02:29 AM


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I notice most turns arent all that obvious....So I guess Im going to have to painstakingly race it again and again =.=

Do the gutters do anything?
icedagger
Posted: Dec 2 2008, 04:34 AM


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Yeah, some turns aren't obvious. Some turns look pretty sharp but can be taken full gas, while some seem rather gentle but require braking.

And yes, gutters pull your car in. You can drive over some of them to run a tighter line.
MonkeyMarc
Posted: Dec 15 2008, 03:23 AM


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so do you use all the gutters?
im currently using all of them, to yeah, do what you said:
-run a tighter line
its kinda scary sometimes when the car jerks,
cos you never know when its gonna suddenly smack something
when you're too far into the gutter, and suddenly lose all your speed ermm2.gif
DigiBunny
Posted: Dec 23 2008, 11:19 AM


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wow...okay. Is it just me, or when people run vids down Iro, they almost do a full 360 entering each hairpin? Normally i just...yknow...TURN and slide a bit, but nothing too drastic.
crow
Posted: Dec 28 2008, 06:29 PM


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its not 360 actually it's mre of 180+ because when you turn in iro your car tends to skid more than 180 degrees due to the ramming the wall,and after that of course you would countersteer,

but i think i know what you mean when you say 360,.. maybe they dont brake before the turnsm or dont even brake at all, that's why they lose controll of every turns and skids more than 180 degrees, that's just my opinion happy.gif
DigiBunny
Posted: Jan 2 2009, 05:15 PM


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Nowhere near the same line as V3 I guess. I'm having trouble finding the "right" point to turn the car around on the wall. I'm either getting turned around or doing it too late and sliding into the outer wall.

Brakes? You use those pulling that off? blink.gif Like, a tap or something before you turn? The only speed loss I can see from vids is from the wall ram itself.
icedagger
Posted: Jan 2 2009, 11:49 PM


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You need to brake a bit before each hairpin. Otherwise you stalled acceleration coming out of the turn.
crow
Posted: Jan 3 2009, 12:16 AM


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Yeap braking is very essential in idas4, except on lake akina ofcourse, especially on sharp hairpins,

no brake no break! Lol

shake and bake!
DigiBunny
Posted: Jan 4 2009, 02:16 AM


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I tried Akina again, and I'm getting what I THINK are okay speeds at first..(123+ at the first downhill pin and 120+ at the second) But As I go on I start to lose momentum. Like at the next set of hairpins that are closer together, I just cant build up enough speed before braking to get a good exit.

Moreso when I hit the consecutive ones. After exiting I usually reach only 120+ before the next one.


I think some of this may be due to my eagerness to get back on the gas ( Thus the spin and speed loss). That, Or I'm raping the inside more than I should.

Any insights? I'm particularly stumped at the hairpins. I cant keep a good line while keeping my speed.
icedagger
Posted: Jan 4 2009, 02:46 AM


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If you "spin out" or get oversteer + acceleration penalty, that means you didn't brake enough, or you're braking too late or too early.

If I remember correctly (Akina isn't my strong course), the first and second hairpins of Akina can be taken at 130+. Also, most of the hairpins should be taken without wall rape.

This post has been edited by icedagger on Jan 4 2009, 02:46 AM
DigiBunny
Posted: Jan 4 2009, 08:57 AM


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By wall rape I mean I stick as close as possible to the wall, sliding against it, to keep a tight line as possible. Not sure if thats any different.

I figure I could also be countersteering too little. I dont always end up perfectly facing the road straight when i come out of the turn.

Still need to deal with the consecutive hairpin problem. I'm not sure if its my driving, or if the car really just cant handle going any faster. Maybe both?
icedagger
Posted: Jan 4 2009, 05:25 PM


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Unless you're running model record times for the car you're using, it's your driving.

Anyway, you definitely don't want ANY wall contacts in the first two sections of Akina. Take a tight line, but stay off the walls. IIRC you should only wallrape the first turn of the CP3 consecs.

And don't forget the brakes. A sloppy but clean line with proper braking can easily get you a 3'10.

This post has been edited by icedagger on Jan 4 2009, 05:28 PM
levin
Posted: Jan 8 2009, 07:08 AM


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i am very new to this game.. i have been playing cardless for around 3 months now..

now i have a card.. AE85.. wat is considered a good time for Akina DHD, Akagi DHD and Tsukuba IB/OB for a new car??

please help me..
Maikeru
Posted: Jan 8 2009, 05:29 PM


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a new car I suppose

akina: 3'10-3'12
akagi: 2'43?
Tsukuba ob/ib: 2'55

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