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The suspension is just fine. Im thinking about either rebuilding or getting a new LSD. And you are right, camber plates are next on the list. Looking at different noes right now, any recommend any? Cams and cam gears have been on my mind too. And like you said, strut tower bar could be nice, but its not first or 3rd on the list.

Nah cant really recommend many, take it with a grain of salt but ive always seen t3s praised fairly well. If you have a factory lsd, id recommend getting an aftermarket. I went through the trouble of rebuilding the factory unit, and while i was happy with it for awhile- I in the end honestly wish Id just spent a liiittle more and gotten an aftermarket (Actually I know 2 people who actually got a complete rear end WITH a kaaz in one and a cusco in the other for LESS than my rebuild). I didnt understand how the factory one works, its mierda. Rebuild it with the t3 stuff and its "ok" but the agression is very low even with his shimmed kit

Kaaz is trash Brother. I have a Kaaz 2-way in mine and it's more of a Kaaz 0-way now. You can hear tons of wheelspin in my videos, especially during off camber climbing. My next LSD will be a Quaife this winter.

Did you get your kaaz brand new? If going fast is what you wanna do and have the cash have to agree hands down quaife is the way to go, nothing like a good torsen to lay the power down out of a corner. Kaaz/cusco is just the cheap way to lay power down with "some" differentiating' goodness- most people want to slide these cars anyways (not something a torsens good for, cam locked clutches on the other hand?)

I did get it new, it sat in the diff of my Euro Corolla. The thing hardly has any miles on it and it's already dead.

Huh, wonder wtf happened. Far from the usual Ive seen in the community around here, ive known a small handfull of people rocking kaazs for -years- that still have a wicked amount of lock up. That said, still a fan of cusco. Starions cusco was interesting, only a 1 way lsd but it chirped the tires while going in reverse through parking lots. Nothing like enough preload to rival the differential capability of a welded rear.

In the past year (July-July), I've had somewhere around the realm of 40 event days (give or take 5), more than half of which the car was co-driven (meaning that it got double the runs), the Kaaz cant handle real abuse. It's little surprise though, most of the "performance" crap that comes from Japan is overpriced trash.

Cusco is ok, it's just asininely overpriced. My Zero2's on my S13 were nearly 2k. For far less I could have bought Koni Yellows, sent them off to get revalved (to take 1000+ lbs springs), and got GC Coils/Camber/Caster plates.

This post has been edited by flohtingPoint on Jul 23 2010, 04:37 AM

No argument here. After looking into some testing on the big-name shocks from there I have to wonder why people like that shit so much. I can only sit back and assume its because a, most people dont know wtf theyre doing, B, most people drift their stuff and the difference is too small for them to notice since theyre not shaving down lap times

Japanese coilover companies also rarely take into consideration proper valving for the vehicle's application, spring rates for proper wheel rates, spring rates for geometry of application, symmetrical valving, I can go on and on. They just slap a 7/5 combo of springs on a coilover, mark it up 3x what it's worth and rip folks off horribly.

It's probably a combo of A and B with a hefty dose of C) People think that Apexi, HKS, Tein, JIC and other companies of the like are tyte.

funny you guys are mentioning this, im playing with idea of doing koni 8611's up front + a set of koni yellows for the rear.

any opinions on the particular setup floh?

This post has been edited by Sensation! on Jul 23 2010, 03:20 PM

Oddly enough, that's half my setup. I have 8611's up front (have to chop strut casings though, as they're short stroke) and I have QA1 revalve one of their set of rear coilovers for me. I dont use them as coilovers though, just as struts, as rear coilovers are illegal in F Street Prepared.

On the 8611's, I had a minor amount of play with them on their sides in the strut casing, so I wrapped some electrical tape on a couple sections of the strut to make it as snug as possible.

8611's can accept up to 1000 lbs springs w/out a problem, but I've done quite a bit of testing this season on springs and 800 lbs is working out pretty well for me up front. NOT for a daily, you'll vibrate your teeth out. With the 800's, my car is a slalom monster and still has enough body roll to plant the outside tire properly.

In the rear I use a Hyperco 9.5 inch (5.5 od) 500 lbs spring with a bit cut off it for right now (my only way to corner balance the car). Next year I'll be using a totally different system with a massive perch for corner balancing.

NO REAR SWAY BAR is key. With that silly bar, you cant gain traction out of the pocket.

Now, unless you plan on using 600 lbs or more up front, 8611's will be overkill and you can use run of the mill koni yellows.

This post has been edited by flohtingPoint on Jul 23 2010, 03:40 PM

Who wants run of the mil? Revalved 8611s seem to be the shock of choice over at hybridz for the serious guys, not cheap but when you consider its 200 bucks a shock for one of the best shocks youll get if you valve it properly thats not bad either in my books (Hell youll spend 600 bucks on "run of the mil" bolt in shocks, whats 200 more?). Course theres always bilsteins, but seeing the success the top scca guys have over at HZ on the konis they get my vote.

Still unsure on my spring rates- Sadly enough anything over 350 pounds on an unsupport Z chassis is known to tear it to literal pieces. Ill have a half cage in mine within the next couple months and some sub frame connectors so i can get away with more, but still not a whole lot. Sadly dont think ill be able to run stiff enough to get away with running no sway, but well see what works. Next decision is do i go with a stiffer front or rear? East vs west coast amusingly enough seem to run exact opposites. Unless I find better information otherwise ill probably go with the softer rear to help hook me power up out of a corner. 360 pounds of twist at my wheels might take priority.

Edit: As off topic as this is, Alex take note of whats being said- Might help you decide more on what to do with your car

This post has been edited by sideways on Jul 23 2010, 04:12 PM

Depends who is buying and their budget. 200 might make or break some.

Stiffer up front of course. You dont have FWD. Stiffer in the rear is silly, I dont even have stiffer in the rear on my MR2 because of this, even though that's what some templates would have some believe. You want to plant your drivetrain wheels and your outside wheel. Depending on how hard I'm pushing, I pick up an inside front wheel.

I ran no sway on the rolla with as little as 400lbs springs in the rear. If you're worried you wont run enough spring, whenever you get the car setup, just disconnect the sway links, do a few figure 8's in a park and ride parking lot and see how it feels.

Some more food for thought on the rear sway; a lot of 1st gen MR2's came with no rear sway bar stock and their rears are much heavier than your Z or your Rolla.

This post has been edited by flohtingPoint on Jul 23 2010, 04:53 PM

Testing my sway like that was my plan. As for the springs- Lots of east coast guys rock stiffer rears than fronts and do amazingly well in competition at all levels. Theyre usually down on power so the problem isnt getting the rear to hook up its getting the front, Zs dont have the best geometry up front. The autox guys like to rock that set up so they can switch back side to side quicker/easier, and the guys who run wheel to wheel apparantly LOVE that set up so they can dive in and make passes on entry.

hmm, I know a few X-Prepared Z drivers, neither of which run stiffer rear. I've met and talked with a several time F Prep national champion and he didn't run stiffer rear. You might be getting fed misinformation.

Look up John Thomas. He's a multi time national champion (both Pro-Solo and regular Solo II) who uses a 240Z. I'm sure he's spec'ed out his setup somewhere on the internet. He has the quintessential template to analyze.

Andy Craig might also be someone to look up, he was a 4 time national champion in a Z car. I think he used a neutral setup, 400/400.
http://sth2.com/Z-car/demon-pg1.jpg
http://sth2.com/Z-car/demon-pg2.jpg

This post has been edited by flohtingPoint on Jul 23 2010, 05:45 PM

You've just made me very anxious, flohtingPoint. A few minutes ago, I just submitted an order for one of the last remaining sets of TRD springs for the AW11 in the US, which has stiffer rears. Granted the spring rates (162/280) aren't high enough for hardcore racing and I'd mostly be using them on the street... q.q

I wonder if driving style or drivetrain factors into this.

It's not as much as a big of deal with the AW11. Most config templates will feature stiffer rears, as there is much more weight to compensate. Also, at that low of a rate, it's probably not a bad idea in fact to have a stiffer rear, especially since I think you're one of the years that didn't feature a rear sway.

My AW11 has 550/450 and after doing some reading and research, I will be trying 600/600 sometime before the winter shutdown.

You can see my driving style from my videos and compare it to how you drive/want to drive. I dont drive my MR2 any different than the 86, aside from the 86 has much more lateral grip due to it running on R-Comps and the AW11 being in a street tire class.

This post has been edited by flohtingPoint on Jul 23 2010, 06:41 PM

Unfortunately, I won't be able to tell the difference since I'd be comparing a stock suspension with blown struts all around to the TRD springs with new struts. If they're better on the street than stock, that's good enough for me. Heard that spring rates that are too high don't tend to be a good set-up for regular roads with more road imperfections. Actually, this might be pertaining to having a too rigid chassis. Don't remember. Either way, high spring rates aren't comfortable for commuting.

On that note, I'll need to order a pair of rear strut inserts... No Koni yellows for me now (can't afford them), but I am considering them for the future. Sticking with cheaper KYB's for now.

Yeah, I think the rear sway bar only came in the earlier '85-'86 MR2's. I haven't looked, but I doubt my '88 has one.

I've seen a few of your videos before and have subscribed to your YouTube channel. Your driving style is pretty much right out of the textbook, and that has gotten you very good times. I'm currently leagues behind you; still learning to understand/manipulate car balance and make smooth/effective weight transfers, since that's what I can practice on public roads without promoting an unsafe driving environment and unwanted attention from public officials. Will need a significantly better grip on this before I attempt my first autoX event.

This post has been edited by Kiroshino on Jul 23 2010, 08:41 PM

And so the Trueno has entered the shop this morning. Next stop, Z parts.

Its been a long time but sadly the Corolla has been in an accident. Ill let you guys know how things go. =/

Damn!! How bad is it?

Aw man whaaaat!? Details! Please tell me it wasn't your fault and the other party will be compensating you enough to get the damage fixed and the car back into show shape?

It's Pretty bad. Hood is bent and the bumper is done. I switched to full coverage earlier this year but I could always use some advice from an insurance person cause I'll do whatever it takes to get them to cover this.

I know Deeznuts is an insurance dude, shoot him a PM.

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Do you have any pictures of the damage?