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> My 1990 240sx project..., pray for me...seriously
DALAZ_68
  Posted: Jun 12 2007, 12:54 AM


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so i sold my accord for personal reasons im not gonna get into...and i picked this up for about 1000... which isnt to bad i think.
SOHC, engine rebult about 5,000 miles ago, so it pulls pretty ok, not great

user posted image
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please deviate ur eyes from the nissan racing sticker and removed bad boys bail bonds sticker on the rear, i did my best to remove them both lol

user posted image
day i picked her up

first and for most i needed ot loose the rims, just cuz
so i bought some pretty clean axxis wiht tires for a bout a 2 bills nothing big just makes it look nicer for now

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yes i knoe grand canyon freakin gap, simply put im thinkin AGX with eibach prokits should give it a nice slight drop, and not make it difficult to enjoy like my accord wiht a 2.5 inch drop....

lesson learned, L.A. is not friendly to lowered vehicles lol

so far its just been cleaning it up since i barely got it and have no job at the moment

but i was given a pretty clean zenki bumper to loose the pignose for now, the paint isnt as clean, but it just looks better to me in general, thought i learned that the pignose fenders are slightly diff from the zenki so i still need the fenders to get but for now its fine
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things done so far:
friend gave me front strut bar...so i ut it on lol
K&N Filter, reusable and its new, for now anyway
stereo... didnt have one, had to go to junk yard find a stereo wiring and rewire things but it works lol



to do list b4 anything else:
remove automated seatbelts for manual ( need info on that, anybody)
lsd... 1.5 should get me wut i need, im not goin to crazy...its a daily driver
suspension as mentioned about
considering 5 lug conversion from a 300zx, bigger pads and dual piston calippers should be a nice increase on braking power
decent paint job...or flat back motief lol
new driver seat...metal is pokin me and its rusted so it need to go
dont knoe wether to re rebuild this thing to handle boost, since ive seensome very well tuned SOHC KA handle...or go DOHC KA and boost...CA18 or Sr20...i need help people



so far
pos:
no more fwd, get to have some fun with this car
better gas IMO then my accord
I get to step out of my comfort zone of my honda world and into something new and intresting

cons:
this thing needs work
clutch fan doesnt turn off so i need to figure out if its the motor in the fan or some circuit problem or wut...help
shocks are blown, so im driving a boat rite now lol

cosmetics arnt to important to me... first and formost are important are seatbelts for now, and then suspension then engine....
like i said i need some insight on some 240 owners here, Floh i hope i can bug u from time to time if possible


planning on going ot GMR this weekend if time allows so hopefully i see someof u guys there that i knoe...

wish me luck and ill continue to add some info here as time passes

This post has been edited by DALAZ_68 on Jun 14 2007, 12:32 PM
EA99
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 01:03 AM


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for the stickers try spraying some WD-40 and using a hair dryer or something for a while, then get a credit card and scrape it off! should come off easy. And repeat if it fails, also scrape lightly while its still hot tongue.gif Though for 1k, thats a pretty good buy! THough, as it looks, you have a lot of things to do before it becomes clean and stock tongue.gif
But she looked 18 of..
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 01:16 AM


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So what are you going to do with it(read:I'm not asking what stuff you are wanting to buy and install on it).
evo4life did a automated to standard seatbelt swap and IIRC he listed his how to in his 240sx thread.
Also check out freshalloy.com and nicoclub forums..(I think those were both decent..) The rest of the 240sx message boards are trash from what I've seen.


nice car. I would have kept the Nissan racing sticker. lol

hopefully floh will come out of hiding a little more advice.
evo4life
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 09:23 AM


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Very nice for 1k!

Let see... You put on a chuki (shark nose) bumper and got rid of the zenki (pignose) bumper. For the fenders u dont need chuki fenders, just the fender extensions. They are small pieces you can just silicone on.

Im going to sell my adjust. kybs and eibach prokits pertty soon to get coilovers. 1yr on, less than 10k miles. Let me know if ur interested....

You can replace your auto seat belts with S14 manual seat bets, sentra seatbelts, or source Canadian s13 manual seatbelts. The process is pretty straight forward, just gotta remove those plastic pillars to disconnect the mechanism, and remove your seats to get to the other pieces behind the carpet.

For LSD it depends, you say you want something for daily driving, but I've heard that the clutch type lsds are overkill and noisy for daily driving, im not 100% sure on this as I have not been in a 240 with one. For drifting those are ideal but if want something more practical you can look into the s15 helical LSDs. Real good for everything else but drifting and better than a used vsld from a super hicas 240 model. s15 helicals are cheap in comparison to clutch type. Just throwing it out there.

Good luck!



DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 10:27 AM


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EA99: thanks bud ill deffinetly try itwhen i get some wd-40

But she looked 18 officer: im thinking just mild mountain driving during summer and spring, other wise maybe some autox for beginners and wut not, maybe some drifting... im not planning on going to crazy with it... just some spirited driving... as far as forums go iv only had a chance to join club240, since they have meets near by... and zilvia.net... so ill check those other forums for sure

evo4life: dude thanks for the info on the seat belts, i need these gone lol...
as far as LSD goes, i do plan on using this car for drifting, not extreme, just mild to get my feet wet... and i was told if ur on a budget going with a 1.5 delivers enough that A. u can get sidways...and B. it wont put a bullet hole in ur pocket... which i have found 1-2 for around 200$ i just didnt have the money to put up happy.gif...ohh and let me knoe how much u want ur set up for...are they still good and everything?

please any advice or suggestions are more than welcomed
W.A.R
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 10:43 AM


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Scrape off the paint on the front bumper its already kinda faded and prime it.Maybe do the same to the hood.Its chump change to do it.

Me and a firend did it to his 240sx looks better too.
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 11:36 AM


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i dont think u understand how broke i am lol


but im going to probably primer the whole car in one day, 3 people, 2 sanders,a nd a box of flat black primer should do wonders, but later later
AzNMaVbOi
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 12:26 PM


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Hey, how much did you actually sell the Accord for anyway?
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 12:45 PM


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lol 3500 lol

it ended having 210,000 on the odo

i sold it to a lady who just needed a car, and she took the offer and i was more than happy to sell it happy.gif
why do u ask good sir ermm2.gif

user posted image
couple days b4 it was sold, the gen5 accord meet in huntington beach crying2.gif

ill miss it crying2.gif

but it had to go

This post has been edited by DALAZ_68 on Jun 12 2007, 12:48 PM
AzNMaVbOi
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 01:29 PM


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QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 1:45 PM)
lol 3500 lol

it ended having 210,000 on the odo

i sold it to a lady who just needed a car, and she took the offer and i was more than happy to sell it happy.gif
why do u ask good sir ermm2.gif


Just getting a ballpark on how much mine could go for. I have a lot less miles on the odo than you did (I'm at 93,000 miles right now) but I guess we'll have to see how much of a difference that makes when I sell the car.
sideways
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 02:55 PM


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Flat black 240's = Ugly as fukk. Why do people kill decent paint jobs to make cars ugly? Just save up, wait to get it painted properly- The car honestly looks fine, no reason to go do some ridonkulus drifter mod.
Sensation!
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 03:10 PM


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wewt! im gonna watch this!

If your gonna swap for SR, then im gonna keep a good eye on this topic.
since your car is below 91, im guessing your gonna need to switch PS lines and redo the ac compressor lines.

since im probably gonna end up getting a pre 91 240 as well, i would like to see you tackle the issues you have with your car. wink2.gif
Godigy
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 03:53 PM


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Do teh flat black paint job. I think it'll look well on the car.
Banken
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 04:21 PM


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1. Full 60,000 maintenance (oil, plugs, fuel filter, plug wires, PS fluid [flush and fill, then bleed), coolant, check belts, check wheel bearing play, adjust them necessary)

Check all the things that wear out slowly, like brake pads, rotor thickness, brake fluid (you should really go ahead and replace it with some quality synthetic fluids, but don't waste money on racing fluid).


Check for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks, fix any of them immediately.

Replace o2 sensor, and any of the cheaper fuel system sensors (ie, coolant temp, air temp, etc)... check for vacuum leaks (replace any hard or cracked hoses), set idle, set timing...etc, etc.

Make sure your new K&N filter is getting cold air, if it's not a drop-in filter for the stock box.

Replace the transmission fluid (assuming it's a manual) with Redline, Royal Purple, or Neo synethic fluid. High-dollar synethic fluids will make the car shift better. Replace the differential fluid with the same stuff (assuming you don't have an LSD...you probably don't).



Check for exhaust leaks as well... for sound and performance reasons.

Checker under the body for rust... you will need to fix it now or it will kill your car...someday.




2. Also, wash/wax that mofo and it might look a bit better.

3. An aftermarket steering wheel (if you don't have any steering wheel controls, like cruise control) and a spacer so you can have a proper sitting position for sports driving will make the whole driving experience a lot more fun. If you've got bad leg room like the stock FC wheel does, you'll LOVE the extra space.


4. Use a full bottle of a high-quality injector cleaner to help clean out your injectors a bit. It still won't do as much as removing them and having them professionally cleaned and flowbenched though, but it's easier. I also suggest removing and cleaning the throttle body with TB cleaner.

5. Finally, go through autocross/drift day tech inspection lists and check that everything is kosher. IE, make sure your battery is being held down by a solid metal holder of some sort.

But PLEASE don't do a flat black paint job.
Möbius
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 04:26 PM


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QUOTE (sidewaysgts @ Today at 6:55 PM)
Flat black 240's = Ugly as fukk. Why do people kill decent paint jobs to make cars ugly? Just save up, wait to get it painted properly- The car honestly looks fine, no reason to go do some ridonkulus drifter mod.

Same here.

Just buff the whole car really good, it looks like the paint is on OK shape. wink2.gif
Sensation!
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 09:19 PM


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yea, no flat black sad.gif
it just turns out looking dark gray.


my suggestion? respray the red..(or do what apex said and keep the paint)
theres a flat red 240 around southbay, but the thing looks orange and seems like it should be mixed with bondo.

hope it all goes well dalaz! update soon!

This post has been edited by NSX on Jun 12 2007, 09:33 PM
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 09:44 PM


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QUOTE (sidewaysgts @ Today at 2:55 PM)
Flat black 240's = Ugly as fukk.  Why do people kill decent paint jobs to make cars ugly?  Just save up, wait to get it painted properly-  The car honestly looks fine, no reason to go do some ridonkulus drifter mod.

well the flat black is only to save money when i get a paint job...im only gonna do it couple days b4 i do the paint, and im going blue...red isnt my color, but thats the least of my worries, as far as the paint being in good condition...it isnt, there is horrible sunware on the top and various other places, ill post pics when i get a chance...



trouble shoot: why the hell doesnt my clutch fan turn the helll off, wut could it be? the damn thing is just killing me in higher revs and speed, sounds like a jet engine or something, its annoying, any suggestions...i was thinkikng of just disconnectiing the damn thing and letting natural air flow cool shit down in movement and turning on the heater when at a long stop, but thats probably just gonna cost me a hella of a lot more problems in the long run

2nd trouble shoot, when i step on the gas my brake light turn on....im assuming there might be a leak in the vaccume (sp) hoses...not getting enough air cpressure, or so im told, any ideas on that...


3rd trouble shoot, need to get A/C working for the summer, any way to check for leaks without having to go for the freon charge...?

Banken: iv checked for fuel and exaust leaks and i couldnt find any, and i have replace the fluids with synthetics were need be, royal purple FTW lol though i had ot drive to autobaucs in Stanton for it happy.gif

Manfred von Karma : as i stated earlier, the flat black is only when i get it painted, actually i should of said primermy mistake...

NSX: as of rite now im indecisive on wut im going to do, rebuild this SOHC or drod in a DOHC boost, or Sr or even CA...im honestly not sure, i knoe the more common swap around my parks is an SR, but i dun have the funds for it currently, i was thinking of possibly going with a DOHC KA for a while, then go the next step when funds are more available for an SR...

This post has been edited by DALAZ_68 on Jun 12 2007, 09:48 PM
EA99
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 10:02 PM


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Save up for the SR, good starting engine block. Theres no point modifying an engine you won't keep in the long run. Just maintain it and keep it going until funds are apparent and the SR is available. Now the A/c... I would get that fixed straight away by a professional, just get it re-gassed and ask them to check for leaks, My Air-con is nice tongue.gif
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 10:27 PM


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well thats the thing, iv seen some KAs perform better than some Sr's, dunno if thats lack of ability in the Sr owner or i dunno

so im up in the air rite now, though i must admit after rreading Evo4life's thread, has inspired me to somewut keep my current engine...

evo4life
Posted: Jun 12 2007, 10:52 PM


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QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 9:44 PM)
well the flat black is only to save money when i get a paint job...im only gonna do it couple days b4 i do the paint, and im going blue...red isnt my color, but thats the least of my worries, as far as the paint being in good condition...it isnt, there is horrible sunware on the top and various other places, ill post pics when i get a chance...



trouble shoot: why the hell doesnt my clutch fan turn the helll off, wut could it be?  the damn thing is just killing me in higher revs and speed, sounds like a jet engine or something, its annoying, any suggestions...i was thinkikng of just disconnectiing the damn thing and letting natural air flow cool shit down in movement and turning on the heater when at a long stop, but thats probably just gonna cost me a hella of a lot more problems in the long run

2nd trouble shoot, when i step on the gas my brake light turn on....im assuming there might be a leak in the vaccume (sp) hoses...not getting enough air cpressure, or so im told, any ideas on that...


3rd trouble shoot, need to get A/C working for the summer, any way to check for leaks without having to go for the freon charge...?

Banken: iv checked for fuel and exaust leaks and i couldnt find any, and i have replace the fluids with synthetics were need be, royal purple FTW lol though i had ot drive to autobaucs in Stanton for it  happy.gif

Manfred von Karma : as i stated earlier, the flat black is only when i get it painted, actually i should of said primermy mistake...

NSX: as of rite now im indecisive on wut im going to do, rebuild this SOHC or drod in a DOHC boost, or Sr or even CA...im honestly not sure, i knoe the more common swap around my parks is an SR, but i dun have the funds for it currently, i was thinking of possibly going with a DOHC KA for a while, then go the next step when funds are more available for an SR...

clutch fans never turn off when the engine is on. Its not like electrical fans that kick in at a certain temp.

That 'jet engine' sound may be bad bearings. Take out the fan + clutch behind it and check the bearings on it. I'd replace it if it looks bad.

I'll PM you tomorrow regarding my shock/springs

This post has been edited by evo4life on Jun 12 2007, 10:58 PM
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 13 2007, 12:46 AM


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QUOTE (evo4life @ Yesterday at 10:52 PM)
clutch fans never turn off when the engine is on.  Its not like electrical fans that kick in at a certain temp. 

That 'jet engine' sound may be  bad bearings. Take out the fan + clutch behind it and check the bearings on it. I'd replace it if it looks bad.

I'll PM you tomorrow regarding my shock/springs

ITS so LOUD lol


aite i guess its time to get greasy again...ill do it this weekend if anything happy.gif

time to go to the junk yard lol

just more pics for u guys to see the sun wear i was talking about...
user posted image
hood
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top
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trunk
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rear side

the pics dont do it justice to how bad it all is lol

interior
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the big shabang
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eye sore of a crack
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pioneer stereo...for a 100 bucks it wasnt a bad deal...no more dead silence during long drives atleast

engine
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image




This post has been edited by DALAZ_68 on Jun 13 2007, 09:29 AM
Banken
Posted: Jun 13 2007, 02:04 PM


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You can probably buff and wax a LOT of that worn paint shiny again.

And IMO, machine-buffed and hand-waxed sun-beaten OEM paint still looks a hell of a lot better than rattle can flat black.

About the dash, I'd say Armor-All that b*tch and call it a day. Rattles and buzzing are a lot more annoying than a slightly cracked dash.



One mod you might like is, pop off the stock rubber pedal pads and put skateboard tape on there... gives you a bit more leg room if you need it (I did, in my FC...), and yes, you will be able to notice the extra 1/4" of legroom, if the 240SX is anything like an FC.

Also, take off the gas pedal cover, and trace it onto some thick sheet metal from Ace Hardware (7 bucks a sheet), then re-draw it so it looks the same, except it's wider (on the left side only), then get a metal worker to cut that piece out (don't bother trying it with han$ tools), and smooth out the edges on a grinder. Then drill holes in the appropriate place and bolt it onto the stock gas pedal (minus the rubber or plastic cover). With a round-headed bolt of small size, not a hex bolt, of course...

A wider gas pedal makes it 20-30% easier to heel-and-toe downshift, since you get better leverage on the throttle without having to move your ankle as much.



Another mod I did involves removing the stock clutch stopper, drilling the hole out to make it better, and feeding an appropriately sized bolt into it, with washers used to make it thicker than the stock stopper. Then put a not on the other side to keep it in place, and wrap it with some electrical tape to keep it from making too much noise (actually I need to work on that part, since it tends to come off).

This will make you not have to put your leg all the way to the floor, since you've probably got a bit of slack in the clutch anyway, and if not, you can adjust it so it still works the same as normal (the clutch pedal might be out a bit further than normal though... but that's not a big deal).

This lets you sit further away from the wheel (I still suggest getting a steering wheel and fairly big spacer, or a wheel with a big offset, like a rally/drifting style wheel)... although I don't know whether this is really necessary on an S13... Which is important if you've got long legs, but short arms... especially with the massive stock steering wheel.
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 13 2007, 03:21 PM


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QUOTE (Banken @ Today at 2:04 PM)
You can probably buff and wax a LOT of that worn paint shiny again.

And IMO, machine-buffed and hand-waxed sun-beaten OEM paint still looks a hell of a lot better than rattle can flat black.

About the dash, I'd say Armor-All that b*tch and call it a day. Rattles and buzzing are a lot more annoying than a slightly cracked dash.



One mod you might like is, pop off the stock rubber pedal pads and put skateboard tape on there... gives you a bit more leg room if you need it (I did, in my FC...), and yes, you will be able to notice the extra 1/4" of legroom, if the 240SX is anything like an FC.

Also, take off the gas pedal cover, and trace it onto some thick sheet metal from Ace Hardware (7 bucks a sheet), then re-draw it so it looks the same, except it's wider (on the left side only), then get a metal worker to cut that piece out (don't bother trying it with hand tools), and smooth out the edges on a grinder. Then drill holes in the appropriate place and bolt it onto the stock gas pedal (minus the rubber or plastic cover). With a round-headed bolt of small size, not a hex bolt, of course...

A wider gas pedal makes it 20-30% easier to heel-and-toe downshift, since you get better leverage on the throttle without having to move your ankle as much.



Another mod I did involves removing the stock clutch stopper, drilling the hole out to make it better, and feeding an appropriately sized bolt into it, with washers used to make it thicker than the stock stopper. Then put a not on the other side to keep it in place, and wrap it with some electrical tape to keep it from making too much noise (actually I need to work on that part, since it tends to come off).

This will make you not have to put your leg all the way to the floor, since you've probably got a bit of slack in the clutch anyway, and if not, you can adjust it so it still works the same as normal (the clutch pedal might be out a bit further than normal though... but that's not a big deal).

This lets you sit further away from the wheel (I still suggest getting a steering wheel and fairly big spacer, or a wheel with a big offset, like a rally/drifting style wheel)... although I don't know whether this is really necessary on an S13... Which is important if you've got long legs, but short arms... especially with the massive stock steering wheel.

as far as the pedals go, im fine... my feet are wide and fat enough that i can practically be on both the gas and brake without moving to much lol

as far the steering wheel im considering not just getting a spacer...but a smaller diameter ( or is it curcumference) wheel from MOMO...i always thought there wheels feel pretty good... happy.gif

ive tried buffind that shit out, hell i even took it to the wash and had some pros try, its too far gone on some sections sad.gif
evo4life
Posted: Jun 13 2007, 04:17 PM


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I'm planning to get coilovers by next month so ill keep you informed.

KAs are pretty tough engines....sometimes plagued with small probs but they'll still run. Id say keep it, maintain it properly and worry about everything else first then decide what you want to do with the engine, especially if its been 'rebuilt.' My old engine had 232,000 miles when i bought the car. Ran like crap, but after a full tune up and getting rid of all the small problems, it ran surprisingly well. I still have it and will continue to use it as a parts engine when needed.
DALAZ_68
Posted: Jun 13 2007, 05:27 PM


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QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 4:17 PM)
I'm planning to get coilovers by next month so ill keep you informed.

KAs are pretty tough engines....sometimes plagued with small probs but they'll still run. Id say keep it, maintain it properly and worry about everything else first then decide what you want to do with the engine, especially if its been 'rebuilt.' My old engine had 232,000 miles when i bought the car. Ran like crap, but after a full tune up and getting rid of all the small problems, it ran surprisingly well. I still have it and will continue to use it as a parts engine when needed.

thats wut im thinkin of doing, is getting another engine t the yard near by with a manual tranny, and do some minor work on it while i beat this thing... but ill see wut happens...


and i knoe the KA is a tough booger, but would u think going DOHC KA would make a difference worth making blink.gif

Flohpoint...any insight on this, even though u run a Sr20 i think...?

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