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Definitely a boost leak, since your WG pressure isn't even that low.

*BUMP*

Ok so this will be my problem thread

So... here's the latest issue.

Last time I used my car, before taking the fenders and bumper off, I went to school. I drove the car and nothing went wrong... until I got to the freeway.

I was driving and the car turned off. I put it in 4th and started it with the clutch, and it turned on. Nothing went stupid until I got to school, where I let the car idle for a bit, and then as SOON AS I turned the car off, didn't even pull the key out, the car dies completely. I try n turn it back on at least to see if the lights turn on and NOTHING.

Nismo gives me a jump after class, and the car turns on. I'm going home and halfway down the block... it turns off! Gets another jump, then turns off again... Nismo takes the car to my house, mentioning he has to keep the revs up otherwise it'll turn off. Soon as it gets home, it DIES again.

Now, my question is this. What could the problem be? Nismo says it could be a wire that isn't in right, or making contact or something. I haven't been able to come up with anything, my first hunch was either the battery or terminals. The battery because sometimes I would need to jiggle the terminals so the car would start. The terminals, because they're pretty old.

Although I have doubts about those two, I figured I'd ask you guys your opinion. Keep in mind, the car's lights will turn on but VERY DIMLY, and as soon as I try n start the car, it dies. Then turn the key again once, and the lights again come on dimly.

So... help? Again

You can run without a battery, but not without an alternator. Test it and see if it's working.

That's the plan as of right now, just to eliminate the dam problem... hopefully that's it. I mean it IS an old car.

Altenator. And maybe the battery too. But for sure something is up with the altenator or the charging system. The indication here is that you had to keep the revs up to keep it alive- Higher revs spin the altenator faster letting it put out a little more juice, so its gimping on 2 broken legs but not totaly dead yet. Check the connections on it but much more than likely its bad and needs replaced.

This post has been edited by sideways on Apr 14 2009, 05:14 PM

When my battery about died on Friday night after my alternator stopped charging, the car would start idle surging and the gauge cluster freaking out before it died.

Start with your fusible link. It should be the only 100A fuse in your fusebox, should be bolted in. Make sure it's not loose. Also check your battery terminals. If they're loose or coroded, that could be part of your problem.

Yeah they're pretty dam screwed... which is why I jumped on that first. They've always given me a problem, but never this much. Which is why I'm posting here...

This was frequent at Autozone when I worked there, change the terminals and the car turned on with no problem... so I guess it's not uncommon.

Good thing is Autozone is down the street

Like mentioned before, cars will run without a battery, if the altenator is good.

Cyrus, get someone to charge your battery, then get it tested. If it passes, get your alternator tested. Any parts shop will do both for free. Both can be tested in or out of the car.

I'm going through this same charging system shit right now. Finally getting a new alternator tomorrow and getting this shit back on the road.

I got the battery tested and it's good. Which means the alternator is screwed. And I can't really get it to a shop because the car won't start... so Ill have to take it off n stuff. Before I buy one I have to get it tested, but Im sure that's probably the culprit.

I guess ill have to take you whatever, I say sell it and buy a volvo wagon.............

If there's a shop within 15 minutes of you, get someone the charge up your battery for you (hook it up like you're going to jump it, have them start your car, but leave it hooked up with your car off for like 20 minutes), and head on over. It'll get you there, but you'll need a charge to get home. Have shit tested while you're there.

im takin him so he dosent need to do all of that, wish us luck with the removal of the alternator

Good luck. In a 3/S, you'll need it.

FYI, bad alternators won't always test bad on a shop's tester. Mine would be fine until I put a significant load on it, and the testers have a set load that wasn't high enough to cause it to cut out. It is best to test it in the car.

Also, it could be a charging wire, so if you can get your hands on an ohmmeter, testing that should take like 2 minutes.

Haha, I did that once, then got nervous at each red light...

*screams* I have to remove some stuff to get to it... then take it off... grr... I guess I should have expected stupid things with a 3S haha... Nismo's not here yet... the bastard...

@ spaz... I can't really do it now... since my terminal has snapped, so now I need a new one man this car's just full of surprises...

What car do you have anyways?

A 3000GT VR4... with NAWZ!!! haha...

*BUMP*

So another problem has arisen..

My check engine light came on, then came off... then came on... then back off.

I smell rich air in the atmosphere sometimes... and the car idles about 200 RPM's higher, but nothing too bad.

Anyone have some suggestions? The problem started like... a week ago.

Get it read while it's on. No way to know what it is unless you can read the code, if you're not seeing other symptoms.

If you have a boost gauge installed (not going off the stocker) you'd be able to tell if you had a boost leak, since that's where I'd start.

Well I know I have a leak.. but I don't think that's what's causing the dam Check Engine light to come on.

I should just go n get it checked at Signal this Tuesday or something.. it's probably something stupid since the car's running well in general..

Remember, my car ran fine when my stock BOV was forcing open at 14psi. The turbo was spinning full tilt because the wastegate wouldn't open, there was no way the MAF readings were anywhere close to what the motor was seeing. It didn't run any more rich than it runs now. It's effectively the same thing, but on yours the lost air isn't staying in the system.

So if the code's a P0170 or P0171, fuel trim malfunction (bank 1 or 2 respectively), you've got yourself a decent boost leak.

Well I had to buy a new battery since the old one was crap.. (from 2005) and was an Autolite.

The light hasn't come on... yet Hopefully it doesn't come on anymore.. I don't smell too much air either. It's calmed itself down somehow lol