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> What Car Do You Have?, Pictures, Details, and Bread and Milk
Lonely_Driver
Posted: Jan 6 2018, 08:55 AM


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what tires are you running?
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Spaz
Posted: Jan 6 2018, 01:43 PM


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Nokian Hakkapelittaa R2s. We spared no expense.

Seriously though, 6000lb SUV, I wanted to make sure there was no grip left on the table since I daily drive this thing.
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Lonely_Driver
Posted: Jan 7 2018, 12:10 PM


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Nice, hows the transmission on these things when it comes to spirited driving? I've been entertaining picking up a V8 Cayenne that needs the usual coolant pipe work for cheap.

Edit: Stupid me forgot that you have a TDI and is a tottaly different drivetrain

This post has been edited by Lonely_Driver on Jan 7 2018, 12:12 PM
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Spaz
Posted: Jan 8 2018, 07:49 PM


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ACTSHUALLY online2long.gif

The PL71/2 sub-platforms themselves were designed by Porsche, and all variants had the same co-engineered driveline. Trans, diffs, shafts, all that happy crap. The only differences between the variants from a driving standpoint were in engine options (obviously) and some minor suspension stuff. But different valving in the dampers, different programming for the air ride, and different sway bars were as far as those went. The strut bodies/bags and linkages were all the same bits. The only major differences beyond were in cladding and interior design/packages. That and the first gen Cayenne got literally the worst looking OEM steering wheel in the history of ever.

That said, the transmission in sport mode is good when you're on the power, but it likes to drop too much pressure from the torque converter when you're off the throttle, so there is some delay between applying throttle and getting power. Plus it has a few stall positions per gear and they can be annoying too. It has a full manual mode, but I haven't tracked it with it to know if the converter issues remain, but I suspect they will. Retrofitting the paddles from an '08+ would be a possible game changer (as would the heated steering wheel while you're at it, ha), but who knows how much they would truly help. I'd argue a transmission reflash would be the better money spent if it's really that big of a concern.

But that aside, obviously it was good enough in stock form to seriously hurt feels, so I can't complain TOO much and get away with it. The long story short is that while I can nitpick, it's still damn good.
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207
Posted: Jan 21 2018, 01:10 AM


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i have this idea that might be a bit crazy but i would like to know if its possible. i would like to put a WOLO road runner tone horn alarm (from the Road Runner car) onto a 2011 Ford Fiesta. its apparently a 2 wire horn setup but can it even be put on the car without serious modifications? it might not have to be that specific horn model but would rather the tone to match as close as possible. id prefer if its not the loudest possible but something that is sufficient and within legal limits.

This post has been edited by 207 on Jan 21 2018, 01:40 AM
Spaz
Posted: Jan 21 2018, 08:31 AM


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Horns are pretty universal. Bolt on the back and one or two wires and you're set.
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207
Posted: Jan 21 2018, 11:06 AM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 2 hours, 35 minutes ago)
Horns are pretty universal. Bolt on the back and one or two wires and you're set.

thank you for the reply. if Wikipedia is correct most car horns are in the 107109DB range. would a 115 DB horn be considered too loud on a car?

i looked at my current horn (working just fine) and where its mounted. there isnt too much space for it but its still 50/50 for mounting on the very same location (for 1 horn model). the metal mounting post is around the same size as the base mounting point for that horn but i'll need to see how much clearance i have for the horn itself. the horn is located under the front right head light unit. id rather all the current wire harness connectors intact if possible. i tried searching the net for the horn wire harness but it only showed me 2 small pins to put wires onto it. do the dealerships or any part stores have the corresponding harness connectors?

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Spaz
Posted: Jan 21 2018, 09:13 PM


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You could splice it in line with the factory connector, otherwise you could cut off the factory connector and just put a couple female spade terminal ends on in place of it. I personally would just do the latter.

As far as volume, your call. You can always test it by hooking it up to a car battery. If you can deal with how loud it is, who cares what others think... They're the reason you're using it in the first place. If they don't want to hear it, they can make better choices while driving.
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207
Posted: Jan 22 2018, 12:37 AM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 3 hours, 24 minutes ago)
You could splice it in line with the factory connector, otherwise you could cut off the factory connector and just put a couple female spade terminal ends on in place of it. I personally would just do the latter.

As far as volume, your call. You can always test it by hooking it up to a car battery. If you can deal with how loud it is, who cares what others think... They're the reason you're using it in the first place. If they don't want to hear it, they can make better choices while driving.

thank you for the reply, i dont mind using spade terminals. the current horn is sufficiently high off the ground to avoid snow and other dirt/debris. i also would like to retain the factory plug and horn (both to be removed from the car) as a backup should anything happens to plug back onto the car if the other is U/S. i just need to see if that particular horn mode will fit under the head lamp assembly and where i can find that particular horn model in a parts store.

as far as the volume, its not much of a difference in DB from what i likely have atm. a friend of mine put a single tone train horn on his old cadillac. i dont want to go that far with the DB level

This post has been edited by 207 on Jan 22 2018, 12:39 AM
Stabbs
Posted: Jan 25 2018, 02:05 PM


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New here...

I myself have (almost) 1990 Mercedes Benz 190E with m102.910 1.8 fuel injection with 4 speed automatic transmission

Few flaws in it

-Bad body repair done before my family have owned it somewhere in 90s probably so about 2 fingernail size chip of filler as dropped and surprise surprise rust underneath (luckily w201 are quite common sight so just finding a new color matching passenger side front door)

-Driver side mirror hanging (literally) Thanks to bad winter tires and sloped to left drive way it slided to a big birch and f***ed the mirror housing where it connects to the door

-Electric antenna motor need replacing/lubricated, not a big deal still works

-Interior wood panels at the center console needs sanding and applying new coat to lacker

Just 227k km on the clock...cant wait getting my license in 18 month awesome.gif
Spaz
Posted: Jan 25 2018, 04:45 PM


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That's pretty cool, actually. Got any pics? I've always liked those old 190s, good looking cars.
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kyonpalm
Posted: Jan 25 2018, 08:16 PM


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They are neat indeed. Seconding request for pics.
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Stabbs
Posted: Feb 1 2018, 12:20 PM


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https://imgur.com/gallery/KDJTM didnt have time to take better pic biggrin.gif

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Spaz
Posted: Feb 1 2018, 04:45 PM


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QUOTE (Stabbs @ 4 hours, 24 minutes ago)
https://imgur.com/gallery/KDJTM didnt have time to take better pic biggrin.gif

That's how everything looks around here too. laugh2.gif
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207
Posted: Feb 3 2018, 09:10 PM


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so i got my wolo 370 horn yesterday and only picked it up today and got a good look at it. i didnt have time to see how my car (Fiesta 2011) horn is wired in regards to the power/ground functions due to having a party today. i have yet to make any wiring mods until i get the wiring of the horn figured out.

i'll need to check when there is power on the 2 factory wires to the horn soon when i have the time. the horn has no ground wire as the contact with the frame is the ground but an extra ground wire is not an issue. the 2 posts on the horn are for the battery power (and 10 AMP fuse) and (2nd post) the horn switch.

do i need to install a relay to the original wire harness or can i just find the wire that sends power to the horn to activate to the 2nd post on the new horn (and leave the other wire cut and covered up)? the battery power wire with a fuse will lead to the battery. this is presuming that 1 wire is constant power 12V and the other wire is the one that sends a signal to the horn to close the circuit. would my current 45 degree mounting bracket for the stock horn be sufficienctly strong to hold the new horn in place? it makes a convenient mounting point atm. the bracket and old horn doesn't weigh too much and the new horn weights 1.2 lbs. though i wouldnt afraid to make a new bracket that is stronger but the OEM mounting bolt is still a 10mm bolt.

my biggest worry is about messing up the BCM with the stronger horn's demand. the 20A mini fuse for the horn is also the fuse for the BCM battery saver circuit. the horn also ties into the alarm system like most cars do.

This post has been edited by 207 on Feb 3 2018, 10:17 PM
Spaz
Posted: Feb 4 2018, 06:46 AM


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Just use the original horn circuit, it's already fused and relayed. And if the new horn requires a 10 amp fuse, and factory is 20, you have nothing to worry about, even with another minor draw on that circuit.
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207
Posted: Feb 4 2018, 10:15 AM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 3 hours, 28 minutes ago)
Just use the original horn circuit, it's already fused and relayed. And if the new horn requires a 10 amp fuse, and factory is 20, you have nothing to worry about, even with another minor draw on that circuit.

thank you very much for the reply. it threw me of for a bit given the horn was on the BCM fuse and the fact the instructions call for 18-gauge wires for the new horn.
Tessou
Posted: Feb 15 2018, 12:21 PM


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Finally got around to the business of replacing the awful heap of shit that was the Tiburon.

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2013 Fiat 500 Sport, 5MT. We paid a hair over $8400 for it. An Abarth is in the pipeline for either late 2019 or early/mid 2020.
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kyonpalm
Posted: Feb 15 2018, 08:23 PM


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QUOTE (Tessou @ 8 hours, 2 minutes ago)
Finally got around to the business of replacing the awful heap of shit that was the Tiburon.

https://i.imgur.com/YtRyJDM.jpg

2013 Fiat 500 Sport, 5MT. We paid a hair over $8400 for it. An Abarth is in the pipeline for either late 2019 or early/mid 2020.

Honestly impressed the Tiburon lasted that long. The 500's not a bad choice either, though I dunno why you didn't just wait a bit longer to get the Abarth right away. I know a guy with one. He's done some work on it but a neat car even without it. Kinda cheap interior though, but not a big deal.
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Tessou
Posted: Feb 15 2018, 11:24 PM


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Because Cecilia wanted a car and wasn't interested in an Abarth. My turn is later.
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Spaz
Posted: Feb 16 2018, 09:50 PM


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QUOTE (Tessou @ Yesterday, 2:24 AM)
Because Cecilia wanted a car and wasn't interested in an Abarth. My turn is later.

Happy wife, happy life, or so they say.
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mikeferrari93
  Posted: Mar 20 2018, 02:58 PM


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awesome.gif I'm honestly in the market for a new car for my mom but right now I have a Toyota Carolla and I love it. Way too many features to list rn (I'm at work haha oops) but I think most ppl are familiar. It's pretty common, haha. Idk honestly I just love how detailed this Carolla info is. When I find the car I want to get for my mom I'm seriously hoping there is a similar description page for it somewhere just to send her. She loves Carmax.

Lol anyone have recommendations for a mom car? She likes comfort and safety but hasn't gone for any of my suggestions.


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ErizerX41
Posted: Apr 10 2018, 03:27 PM


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My little Mazda 2 NA Skyactiv 1.5 litre, with reprogramming of the ECU to 130hp and 158 torque.

Not to be a car with a very, very powerful engine, it moves very freely and lightly. The truth is that it is a nice car to drive on twisty roads with curves, due to its light weight and a fairly neutral weight distribution.

I'm actually quite happy with it! happy.gif

In its own way, it's still a little bit better in potential than an AE86 xD.

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PD: Although sometimes I have a feeling, and it reminds me a little of Shingo's car in some way. laugh2.gif
207
Posted: Aug 16 2018, 04:05 PM


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my Fiesta conked out a bit today. i had trouble starting it and the shifter was locked into park. i had a oil life warning (due on time to change it) and removed the warning to start the motor. got the shifter manually unlocked and it wouldnt go into gear.

turns out there's a U0101 code TCM connection loss which immobilizes my transmission. gotta push it to a better spot so it can be towed in order to get to a dealership. are troubles like this a sign that more issues with the transmission are down the line? im not sure what the exact problem that caused the code to occur but hopefully the dealer can fix it. anyone here had/have similar codes that occured and were resolved?
Nomake Wan
Posted: Aug 16 2018, 06:03 PM


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TCM Connection Loss simply means that the connection between the ECM (Engine Control Module, which I assume is also the source of all your OBDII diagnostic codes) and the TCM (the transmission control module, essentially the computer that controls your automatic transmission) has failed. This could be as simple as a wiring issue or as complex as the TCM itself failing in some way.

However, I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that your actual physical transmission is bad. From just the code you provided, so far all we know is that the electrical signal between the two computers isn't correct.
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