Close Topic Options

Awesome, I'll probably go for the turbo to hear the sound of it.

Thanks again!!

Actually, im having trouble finding information on the handling settings for the car once its full tuned, can anyone show me a good thread or link me to some information.

I wanna know what is best for usui, right now on the default setting, I am running 250 on the downhill. would a more stable setting improve my time?


Thanks in advance!


This post has been edited by ARMA on Jan 29 2015, 05:50 PM

Actually, im having trouble finding information on the handling settings for the car once its full tuned, can anyone show me a good thread or link me to some information.

I wanna know what is best for usui, right now on the default setting, I am running 250 on the downhill. would a more stable setting improve my time?


Thanks in advance!

It's really up to your machine condition and personal preference. It's suggested you try out a few different ones to see which one suits your style.

But yes, a different setting may indeed improve your time if you happen to like it more. Som spells prefer lighter, some prefer heavier.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jan 30 2015, 06:18 PM

I was at the arcade today and I actually didnt see any option to change the handling settings. I have 3 full tuned cars on my card and pressing the view change button did nothing.

Insert card -> Select the Options (gear cogs) -> Change the 0-10 bar to personal preference (lower meaning less force feedback)

in a 1v1 battle, can anyone tell me what determines who gets to choose the course?? it seems 100 percent random to me, but there might be something Im missing.


Thanks!

I think it is always random, at the start I always seem to have a 50/50 shot of getting it. When I win I sometimes get it and sometimes it transfers to the other person and the same with losing.

regarding the engine upgrade on the 86, how is this presented to you in game? I'm working on a 2door 86 and just want to make sure I pick the right one when it comes up, definitely planning to go with the mechanical tune

I believe it's a NA upgrade, turbo, then supercharged upgrade but in the end it does not matter performance wise, it's just an audio upgrade.

Got to play a decent amount today, but the cabs were at a convention so I couldn't focus on it quite as much as I would have liked. Partway through spec 4 now.

I notice I'm losing a lot of ground in consecutive hairpins. I don't think I lost a race all day but the one place I'd get passed pretty much every time on akina was the sequential hairpins at the end, I'm just wondering what I'm doing wrong, maybe it's just how the boost mechanics act? I do know that everything changes once you hit full tune but still.

I'm typically approaching at the top of 4th, going to the outside and braking down to 2nd then throwing it at the apex and letting off the gas, getting back on when I'm facing the exit. Am I just slowing down too much/being too conservative?

I also cannot for the life of me figure out the line through the decreasing radius left hander after the first long straight, I see people just keeping it floored through that in replays but I always hit the outside hard when I try that. Lifting off to try and drift always just slams me into the inside wall and just about stops me.

Sorry for the wall of text here, just trying to build a better understanding to work from. I figure akina is a solid stage to learn on since I know it so well from battle gear 3.

No that's what I did too, but then again you are in Spec 4 so that does contribute to something. Also it's more or less once you hit Spec 5 that things change.

Have you tried using the gutters? Akina is infamous for it...

The engine upgrade will split into another 3 choices where it will show you pictures of the upgrades. In 7aax there was a sound bug with the turbo upgrade on the 2door. So the NA balance should show like 3 tools.

Things would change a lot once you hit the final box of Spec 4 so I suggest you don't think too hard about mastering the current physics. Like the physics would be very different and there's going to be little to no speed loss while turning.

I had a question about the offline 1v1 battle system in initial D 7.

So whenever I battle someone, and they decide to continue and keep battling, after 2 wins a tiny mark comes up under their card name and it says "boost +1" Does this effect the game play when you turn the boost off?


We always play with the boost turned off, but I feel like it gets harder and harder to catch him the more consecutive wins I have (because he always wins at the launch/start so im always chasing)

Any opinions or insight would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!

I got to put in another solid session and got my 86 tuned up within 2 parts of FT. I'm still struggling to understand the physics of this game and was hoping someone could just break down how the BC should be used/how to properly take a corner at speed. I have Silvers on pretty much every TA I run and still feel very slow. (I got a gold on Iroha somehow? Feels like the requirements on that course must be exceptionally lenient)

So I understand that the brake cancel is the most important tech in this game, I've seen some videos explaining it and watched a lot of replays in an attempt to understand how it's used but it still isn't clicking for me. I don't understand exactly what the BC itself does to the cars handling, I feel like I'm just blindly trying to copy techniques with no understanding of why each part of it is performed. It was the same way for me in v3 until someone very specifically broke down a corner for me step by step and then it sort of clicked. I find myself downshifting too much and doing a lot more braking than people seem to use in TA videos I'm seeing. I'm also very rarely going to full lock steering whereas I see people hitting it on almost every corner during fast runs.

If anyone could help me to better understand this I'd be extremely appreciative, we've gone without a machine in this area for so long that there isn't really any community around here at all.

What maps are you specifically looking to work on?

Ive recently learned this game so the ideas are fresh in my head, hopefully I can help.


What I tell the guys in my area to do first is run MYOGI (third map) because this map will teach you how to break cancel, and keep your speed up. Myogi has mostly high speed brake cancel requirements and IMO these types of Brake cancels are the easiest to learn.


When you brake cancel, do it in this order,

First: full lock turn

second: right as youre coming to full lock turn, let go of the gas, and brake (quickly!)

third: quickly "play with the gas" (this is where you control if the brake cancel is high speed or lower speed) If you slam on the gas, this is a high speed brake cancel, and youre going to do these on most of the hairpins on myogi OR when youre entering really slow, but still need to brake cancel to get a good exit speed.

I hope this helped! Feel free to ask questions, and maybe I can help you better with a video

Hmm I think I've been trying to BC right as I begin to turn in and then go full lock afterward, which just understeers me straight into the wall. Is the idea of the BC that you initiate understeer in the direction of the corner and then the BC kicks you into a drift? And how should shifting play into the sequence? I've also noticed that most corners are done off throttle in TA replays I've seen, do you generally just stay off until youre lined up with the exit completely?

The course I've been focusing on the most is Akagi, it's been my favorite for a while. I feel pretty fast running it in older games but 7 makes me feel like I've never driven it before haha. Thanks for the response, I really appreciate you helping out!

On an unrelated note, I'm going to be playing a fair amount of 8 during the first weekend of april, I'm taking a trip out to Round 1 in Chicago with a friend. Will the same techniques work more or less or is 8 drastically different from 7?

AKagi IMO is the hardest course to grasp the idea of break canceling, If you look at really really high level akagi TA's, they do a "double break cancel" Check out this video here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKqzlUjjVp0...n4mlCs&index=12

On akagi you need to double brake cancel certain turns, however I still havent mastered it, and I ran a 240 without doing it, so I need to cut the last 10 seconds by doing it.

What you need to pay attention is the double brake cancel on the first left hairpin.

Then pay attention to how the driver brake cancels the tighter hairpins in third gear. This is your average brake cancel technique, very early with a late cut.

the technique is to full turn lock, let go of gas and brake, full gas, and then let go of gas one more time. When you let it go the "one more time" THATS when the car really whips into the turn.

It also brings you to a great playlist that shows the highest level of play on almost every course.


Also look at the rest of the playlist

This post has been edited by ARMA on Mar 23 2015, 08:56 PM

It takes awhile to get the hang of the real physics of the game. I remembered struggling quite a bit as well as the physics changed while tuning my car in D7.

BC is important in D7, however don't be afraid to to just revert to a simple downshift and just use accel taps. They may not be optimal techniques all the time but they're a great way to learn things while you learn more advanced techniques slowly.

Really appreciate all the input. Gonna check out all of these videos, it's really helpful having the steering wheel in the shot as well. I'm frustrated I can't go try this stuff out immediately haha. Hopefully I'll get word about the cabs going in pretty soon so I can get into a regular routine of playing.

Can someone give me a hand or translation for this code? Its on 2 out of the 4 machines at nanuet and i have no idea why.

Image size reduced, original size: 3984 x 2241. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Google Translate:

カード ユニット リーニング MEMA 口 から クリーニング カード を 挿入 し て ください

"Please insert the cleaning card from the card unit cleaning MEMA opening"

Not sure where the MEMA part is correct though it's possible that the app just turned it into alphanumerals from the original text when it scanned the photo. But whatever it is, it's related to the card reader unit.

If this translation is correct, it's dirty and you need to enter the cleaning card to clean the memory card reader unit.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Aug 13 2015, 09:07 PM

Woah, a scanning app? What is the program?

Okay last time I translated the whole thing in one go, this time I did the two sentence seperately and I think it looks better:


[カード ユニット リーニング]
MEMA 口 から クリーニング カード を 挿入 し て ください

[Kādo yunitto rīningu]
MEMA-guchi kara kurīningu kādo o sōnyū chicken 'n wafflese kudasai

[Card unit cleaning]
Please insert the cleaning card from MEMA opening


======

Google Translate app, available for free on iOS and Android. It will scan pictures for you and translate them. Then it will give you the original text it "saw" on the picture, how to pronounce the text as well as the translation. Japanese is one of the languages where photo translation is available.

It's scanning isn't perfect all the time but works well enough to be useful.

The best part is that you can take the Japanese text it scans and copy paste it to other machine translation services if you want to see their interpretation. The scanning is a pretty good feature because you can use it with just about any other translation service.

Do note that it requires an online connection when you translate it. If you want an offline Japanese photo translator, there is one called Waygo that I used on my trip to Japan but it's not as good and a lot harder to use relatively and it costs a few bucks.

There's also a Bing translation app that came out recently but I have not tested that one.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Aug 14 2015, 03:08 AM

Google Translate problems lol.

Just insert in a cleaning card (if you have one), or just insert in your own ID card (not really recommended) or a disused card/blank card into the card reader. Then wait for a while, let the machine do its thing, then the card will eject back out