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Post everything about Initial D Arcade Stage 4 here. If you want to talk about ver.1 and ver.2, please post them in the ver.1 - 2 section. For anything about ver.3, please post them in the version 3 section. Participating in flame wars will be severely punished. NO plagiarism in any case. If you are posting information (i.e. - shift points) that did not originate from this forums, by all means, give the author / source proper credit. Violator will be given a verbal warning on first offence and an actual warning thereafter.

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> EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IDAS4!!! OMFG!!, THE GREATEST THREAD FOR EVERY ID4 PLAYER!!!
DamienWolf
  Posted: Dec 9 2007, 09:11 AM


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Now that I've got your attention, here's the answers to questions that I'm sure you were about to ask before you saw this thread:



IDAS4 FAQ



1) Is there an exterior part I can add to my car to make it faster or more stable?

- Exterior parts dont matter in IDAS4. They dont matter. They dont make your speed, accel, brakes faster or stronger and doesnt make your handling "heavier". All they are good for is aesthetic value.


2) How do I do teh doriftu??

- Hold the wheel like a good little boy. Now move both your arms in harmony either to the right or left. There! Congratulations.



3) What is the best overall car in IDAS4?

- The Trueno claims top rank because its the easiest car to control and has good speed and accel everywhere. Still, it doesnt mean you would be godly if you use a Trueno. Its very slippery so its also harder on wet but if you learn to control it right, you have a good all-rounder car. Its ok in battles but does not have the best startup in the game. Also, every course has "course cars" which either performs better or has better top speed than all the other cars.



4) What are the "course cars" and why?

Akina Lake ccw - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 (course car because of 4th gear overrev top speed 191)
Akina Lake cw - Subaru Impreza GDBF (course car because of 4th gear overrev top speed 191)

Myogi DH - Honda Civic EG6 (course car because of slower speed loss during turns)
Myogi UH - Nissan Skyline GTR32 (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 4th gear is at 169kph)

Akagi DH - Mazda RX7 FC (course car because of slower speed loss during turns and easier to handle than the FD)
Akagi UH - Mazda RX7 FD (course car because of slower speed loss during turns as well as stability on exit. It also has a faster 3rd gear compared by 1kph compared to other cars: 116kph)

Akina DH - AE86 Trueno (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 5th gear is at 177kph)
Akina UH - Subaru Impreza GC8V (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 5th gear is at 175kph)

Irohazaka DH - Toyota MR2 (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 3rd gear is at 105kph)
Irohazaka UH / Reverse - Suzuki Cappucino, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III (for the capp, course car because its small size allows you to make a tighter line on the wall ram. In iro reverse, even by using the wall ram, there is a tendency for other cars to slip on the outside, hitting the outside wall too rather than just the inside wall. The cappa doesnt, if you do it the correct way. For the Evo3, it's got killer acceleration for Reverse and still slightly smaller than most of the cars in its accel range.)

Tsukuba OB - Honda S2000 (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 5th gear is at 148kph. Three other cars share this top speed, the EK9, the GTR34 and the GTR32 but the S2000's handling as well as the top speed makes it the ideal choice for the course car)
Tsukuba IB - Nissan Skyline GTR34 (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 5th gear is at 148kph)


5) Yay! So if I use a course car during battle, I'll instantly pwn those who dont have them?

- Uhhh.... no. Course cars lose their 1kph or slower speed loss advantages during battles. Their speed goes back to regular speed. There are only 3 exceptions. I cant say them, though. LOL!

Still, some course cars have handling advantages. For example, I'd still like to use the Trueno in Akina DH or S2K in Tsukuba OB but I dont want to use the GTR34 in Tsukuba IB because of its "omfg-im-hitting-the-wall-AGAIN" handling.



6) Well, if I want to have 3 "great-everywhere-and-TA" cars in one card, which would you recommend?

- Tough question. I would go with 3 alternatives. And all of them have the Trueno:

( Option A ) Trueno, FC, S2K - Trueno obviously can take on any course but to own the big 3 (ie: Akina, Akagi, Tsukuba), these 3 course cars can take on any downhill map and fast enough in the UH. These are the cars btw on my very first IDAS4 card. And this garage is what I would say my "main" one.

( Option B ) Trueno, FD, MR2 - You have two great downhill cars with the Trueno and the MR2, the FD is there to get those wet maps that you think are too slippery for your underpowered cars and also to apply a bit of sexiness. Plus you get Iro with the MR2.

( Option C ) Trueno, GC8V, Cappucino - Now if you consider yourself quite a battler and also you love challenges and still want to pwn TA maps in your spare time, this is a good line-up. The ever-redundant Trueno is still there. This time we have the GC8V which acts like the FD on Option B except that this has GREAT start-up for those who love being in the front. For the pros who love the challenge, the cappa actually has SLOWER speeds than ALL cars in ALL maps AND also has startup. Slower by 1 to 1.5KPH than all cars, its the ultimate underdog car! pinch2.gif Still, it can do a great line and passing is a breeze. Take note:

Black cappa + Night condition + Blind attack = sex



7) How do I get the tuning shops?

- Alright, after you first get your car and card, keep ejecting your card until you get to your very first PERFORMANCE PARTS SHOP. You will know it when you see stuff like ENGINE, EXHAUST, BODY, ETC. Anyway this IS the performance shop, get your first upgrade and then eject your card. Now look at the pattern below:

Performance Shop ---> Normal Eject ---> Normal Eject ---> Body Shop A ---> Avatar random thingee ---> Normal Eject ---> Repeat from the start

Take note that there are two body shops. A and B. Body Shop A would be the hoods, rear bumper, body kits, rear spoiler, Side skirts/fender. Body Shop B would contain Muffler, Wheels, Sticker, Transmission, Mirrors and Misc.

Also take note that if you MISS your performance shop (ie: did not eject your card and continued), then dont fret because your pattern will change. This time, replace Body Shop A or B with Performance Shop and proceed as normal. Dont miss it again.



8) Can you tell me what is the best tuning method?

- I get this question a lot. The answer is that THERE IS NO "RIGHT" WAY TO TUNE! You can go 1-1-1-1-1 or 2-1-1-1-1 or 7-0-0-0-0. It all depends on you. What you should take note thought is that its not the right way of the tune that you should be concerned about but rather TO GET YOUR FRICKIN' CAR FRICKIN' FULL TUNED!!!

But if you INSIST on wanting a tuning pattern. I usually complete Step 7 Engine first in all cars. And then the next internal upgrades will depend on the car. For example, Im tuning a car with good handling but is considered "underpowered" (ie: Trueno, S2K, FC, Levin, AE85, Miata, etc) I do this method 7-7-0-0-7. The point of doing it this way is to boost power first since I dont have power but have decent handling. Logical, right? Now if I was tuning cars which has bad-ass power but heavier handling (ie: Evo9, GDBF, FD, the Skylines, etc), I do it this way 7-0-7-7-0. I STILL step 7 the Engine but this time, I choose body and suspension first over exhaust and ECU. Since I already have kick-ass accel, I focus on the handling first.

Still, as again stressed, it doesnt matter which way you go to tune. This is your goal ---> 7-7-7-7-7. How you get there is up to you.



9) Do you use the brakes?

- If you're on a ver1.2 machine: Not always. Only to PC. Refer to this thread to know more: http://idforums.net/index.php?showtopic=31636
- If you're on a ver1.5 machine: Brakes are extremely important in the game. Not braking will result in loss of traction for your wheels making your car swerve out of control. Even if you do fix this "oversteer moment", your accel is lagged until the next hairpin you need to brake on. PC will not work like it used to in ver1.2. It can still fix your accel a wee bit but nothing to bring it back to even 50%.



10) How do you get auras?

- You cant. At least not yet. What we have is the "international" version. Only the japanese versions have auras and ranks.



11) What car has the best startup in the game?

- Nobody has proven one car to be the best but take note that AWD cars have better startup than FR or FF cars. The gears have little to do with it. Its all on the traction.



12) What is the best engine for my Trueno?

- Any. All 3 engines perform the same. Only the tachs and the sound changes.



13) How can I post my times / see the times on the (English) internet rankings?

- Click on this link: http://netrank.initiald.sega.com/ranking/
If you want to post your time, go to DRIVER REGISTRATION. You need your TA password and your Card Number (its on your card). If asked for an email, you can use an email that your ISP has provided for you or, for less hassle, use www.keromail.com. The usual emails dont work, ie: Yahoo, Google, Hotmail.



14) I'm new, what car do you think I should make first?

- Make what you want. No use making a car if you dont like it. But if you want to be a serious TA player, refer to my table on "course cars" above and make the suitable car for the course. If you still want to pester me about it. The Trueno, S2000 and the MR2 are great cars for beginners. They're speedy, you can take them anywhere (the Trueno is a tad bit slippery, though) but these cars will help you learn the basics of the game.



15) Do I really need to PC?

- If you're on a ver1.2 machine: Do you really need to breathe?
- If you're on a ver1.5 machine: On some occasions it still works but not all the time. (Its used mainly now on entry and not on exit)



16) Does eraser still work?

- No. Everyone who tell you stuff like that or some "clutch kicking", are just acting cool and dont know jacksh*t about what they're talking about.



17) What is the best startup for the game?

- For Time Attacks, I do a hot start overreving it as it counts down and immediately shifting to 2nd gear when it says "go". The engine will accelerate the same but the point of shifting quickly lessens the chance for you to mess up shifting to 2nd gear on a normal shift. If you overrev a bit on 1st gear, it already messes up your speed which messes up your times. For battles, what I do is do a cold start but I kick the pedal at the "one" number. When go starts, the needle will jump to the right RPM and I shift to 2nd gear normally when 1st gear hits the limit.

I have made experiments and I've found out that on TAs, any way to shift is ok (cold start, hard start, shift up immediately, normal shifting) but shifting up immediately gives you less chances to screw up shifting to 2nd gear.



18) What are the different shift points in the game?

- This time around, there are no specific shift points. You shift up when your car is overreving.



19) Im playing ver1.5 now. But I still like to play on ver1.2 machines. Is this possible?

- Yes. When you first play ver1.5 after 1.2, the machine will prompt you that all your times from the previous version will be replaced by your new times for ver1.5. Dont worry. If you return to a 1.2 machine, all your times will still be there. But what for eh? Life is about adapting. If you dont adapt, you die. Life lesson kiddo.


20) I'm renewing my card but I got something called ERROR 403 and the techs at my arcade dont know what to do. Why does this happen? How can I solve this?

- Ah, the dreaded 403. Yep, this still happens even on ver1.5. There are a few reasons why this happens. Your arcade may have a faulty card dispenser but most likely, if your arcade stores their cards by the bulk in the machine, the cards get stuck and the machine tells you it cant get the card. There are instances that a card is inserted the wrong way on the slot (stupid techs). Anyway, no problem. Once you've started the renewal process, your data gets stored on the machine. There was just an error writing it on the new card.

- Here's what you should do. Dont be afraid when the techs turn the machine off (but to be safe, tell them not to.) Tell them to press the "service test button thingie" inside the slot where you put in tokens. There would be a series of options that will appear. You should go to "GAME TEST MODE." And then more options will appear. Look for the one that says "IC CARD RESTORATION". When you click on that, you will see a series of card numbers (remember that when something goes wrong on renewal, the machine stores the data). Find the one that matches yours. Tell the tech to highlight it, click that service test button thingy again then click on the option that says "restore". The machine will ask you to insert back your "Expired" Card. It will then write your data back on it. You can then start the renewal process again and hope it would never happen. Just ask the tech to check if the cards are inserted properly, if the dispenser is ok, etc etc etc.




21) Who are you?

- I'm just a normal player. I'm from the Philippines, though if you want to know more. wink2.gif



22) Why should I believe you?

- Tell you what... click on this link ---> http://netrank.initiald.sega.com/ranking/
Pick a map then click on total rankings. Find my card name WOLF or any of my students' card names, GECKO, CROW, AHC, HYENA, AURICK or VIPER.
If we have a faster time on the map than you do, then you dont have the right to question my answers. BUT if you are faster than I am, then you're not supposed to be in this thread because you already know all of this, dumbass.



IDAS4 RANDOM SHIT

Some tidbits about the game if you want to know. Info provided by brianinfinispirit, by me, and a few others.



---SHIFT POINTS (as in what speeds to shift up or down)

1. Akina Lake CCW/CW
5th/6th gear: 187 (stock), 188 (step 3), 189 (step 5), 190 (FT)
CT9A and GDBF reach 191 at CCW and CW, respectively, when FT before shifting into 6th.

2. Myogi DH
4th/5th gear: 146 (stock), 147 (step 3), 148 (step 5), 149 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 167 (stock), 168 (step 3), 169 (step 5), 170 (FT)

3. Myogi UH
4th/5th gear: 145 (stock), 146 (step 3), 147 (step 5), 148 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 165 (stock), 166 (step 3), 167 (step 5), 168 (FT)
BNR32 reaches 169 when FT before shifting to 5th.

4. Akagi DH
4th/5th gear: 114 (stock), 115 (step 3), 116 (step 5), 117 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 141 (stock), 142 (step 3), 143 (step 5), 144 (FT)

5. Akagi UH
4th/5th gear: 112 (stock), 113 (step 3), 114 (step 5), 115 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 139 (stock), 140 (step 3), 141 (step 5), 142 (FT)

6. Akina DH
4th/5th gear: 121 (stock), 122 (step 3), 123 (step 5), 124 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 141 (stock), 142 (step 3), 143 (step 5), 144 (FT)
AE86 Trueno has a top speed of 177; all others at 176.

7. Akina UH
4th/5th gear: 120 (stock), 121 (step 3), 122 (step 5), 123 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 139 (stock), 140 (step 3), 141 (step 5), 142 (FT)
GC8 reaches 143 when FT before shifting to 5th. It also has a top speed of 175; all others at 174.

8. Irohazaka DH
4th/5th gear: 101 (stock), 102 (step 3), 103 (step 5), 104 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 142 (stock), 143 (step 3), 144 (step 5), 145 (FT)
SW20 reaches 105 and 146 when FT before shifting to 4th and 5th, respectively.

9. Irohazaka REV
4th/5th gear: 100 (stock), 101 (step 3), 102 (step 5), 103 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 140 (stock), 141 (step 3), 142 (step 5), 143 (FT)

10. Tsukuba OB/IB
4th/5th gear: 114 (stock), 115 (step 3), 116 (step 5), 117 (FT)
5th/6th gear: 144 (stock), 145 (step 3), 146 (step 5), 147 (FT)
AP1 and BNR34 reach 148 at OB and IB, respectively, when FT before shifting into 6th.

NOTE: EA11Rís shift points are reduced by 1 km/h on all courses




---INTERNAL UPGRADES BREAKDOWN

ENGINE, DRIVETRAIN
--Step 1: Mechanical LSD 3000
--Step 2: Lightweight Flywheel 5000
--Step 3: Reinforced Clutch 10000
--Step 4: High Flow Turbine 15000
--Step 5: Porting & Polishing 20000
--Step 6: Bore Up 25000
--Step 7: <see note below>* 50000
--TOTAL COST 128000

INTAKE/EXHAUST, COOLING
--Step 1: Air Filter 2000
--Step 2: Sports Catalyst 4000
--Step 3: Large Diameter Throttle 8000
--Step 4: Oil Cooler 10000
--Step 5: Exhaust Manifold 13000
--Step 6: Large Capacity Radiator 16000
--Step 7: Large Intercooler 25000
--TOTAL COST 78000

SUSPENSION
--Step 1: Racing Brake Pad 3000
--Step 2: Mesh Hose 5000
--Step 3: High Performance Suspension 8000
--Step 4: Reinforced Sway Bar 10000
--Step 5: Reinforced Suspension Arm 13000
--Step 6: Big Caliper 20000
--Step 7: Large Diameter Brake Rotor 25000
--TOTAL COST 84000

BODY
--Step 1: Tower Bar 3000
--Step 2: Front Ladder Bar 5000
--Step 3: Rear Ladder Bar 8000
--Step 4: Roll Bar 12000 (the AE86 Levin has two different roll bars. Both of them have Aki (Wataru) (Wataru) (Wataru)'s picture. 1st Roll bar was his Roll bar during Stage 2 of the anime when he used the Turbo. 2nd Roll bar was his Roll bar during Stage 4 when he used the Supercharger. The RX7FD also has different rollbars. 1st Rollbar is Keisuke's and 2nd Roll bar is Kylie's
--Step 5: Weight Reduction Level 1 14000
--Step 6: Weight Reduction Level 2 16000
--Step 7: Spot Welding 30000
--TOTAL COST 88000

ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
--Step 1: Ground Wire 2000
--Step 2: Racing Plug 4000
--Step 3: Dry Battery 8000
--Step 4: ROM Editing 10000
--Step 5: Boost Up 13000
--Step 6: Sub Computer 25000
--Step 7: Full Computer 45000 (The evo3 has a different Step 7 option)
--TOTAL COST 107000

It will cost 485000 points to obtain all internal upgrades.
* - Step 7 for Engine will depend on the car. For most turbocharged cars, it will be Large Diameter Turbine. For most naturally-aspirated cars, it will be Balance Engine. There are some cars though which have special options like the AE86 Trueno.



About Legends of the Street...

===AKINA LAKE
1/10 -- Itsuki "Iggy (Itsuki) (Itsuki) (Itsuki)" Takeuchi (AE85), counter-clockwise, dry, day
2/10 -- Takumi "Tak (Takumi) (Takumi) (Takumi)" Fujiwara (AE85), clockwise, dry, day
3/10 -- Two Tokyo Guys (S15), counter-clockwise, dry, night

===MYOGI
2/10 -- Kenji (RPS13), uphill, dry, day
3/10 -- Shingo Shoji (EG6), downhill, dry, day
4/10 -- Mako "Maya" Sato & "Simone (Sayuki) (Sayuki) (Sayuki)" (RPS13KAI), downhill, dry, night
5/10 -- Takeshi "Zack" Nakazato (BNR32), uphill, dry, night

===AKAGI
3/10 -- Kenta "Kent" Nakamura (S14), downhill, rain, day
4/10 -- Kyoichi "Kyle (Kyouichi) (Kyouichi) (Kyouichi)" Sudo (CE9A), uphill, dry, day
5/10 -- Keisuke "K.T." Takahashi (FD3S), uphill, dry, night
6/10 -- Ryosuke "Ry (Ryousuke) (Ryousuke) (Ryousuke)" Takahashi (FC3S), downhill, dry, night

===AKINA
3/10 -- Koichiro "Cole (Iketani) (Iketani) (Iketani)" Iketani (S13), downhill, dry, day
4/10 -- Kyoko "Kylie" Iwase (FD3S), uphill, dry, day
5/10 -- Wataru "Aki (Wataru) (Wataru) (Wataru)" Akiyama (AE86L), uphill, dry, night
7/10 -- Ryosuke "Ry (Ryousuke) (Ryousuke) (Ryousuke)" Takahashi (FC3S), downhill, rain, night
8/10 -- Takumi "Tak (Takumi) (Takumi) (Takumi)" Fujiwara (AE86T), downhill, dry, night
***10/10 -- Bunta Fujiwara (GC8), downhill, dry, night

===IROHAZAKA
5/10 -- Seiji "Hawk (Seiji) (Seiji) (Seiji)" Iwaki (CN9A), downhill, dry, day
6/10 -- Kyoichi "Kyle (Kyouichi) (Kyouichi) (Kyouichi)" Sudo (CE9A), downhill, dry, night
7/10 -- Kai "Caine" Kogashiwa (SW20), downhill, dry, night

===TSUKUBA
6/10 -- Daiki "Dice" Ninomiya (EK9), outbound, dry, day
7/10 -- "Smiley" Sakai (DC2), inbound, rain, day
8/10 -- Toshiya "Godhand" Joushima (AP1), outbound, dry, night
8/10 -- Kouzou "Godfoot" Hoshino (BNR34), inbound, dry, night
*10/10 -- Keisuke "K.T." Takahashi (FD3S), inbound, dry, night
**10/10 -- Takumi "Tak (Takumi) (Takumi) (Takumi)" Fujiwara (AE86T), outbound, dry, night

* -- unlocked when you defeat all regular opponents
** -- unlocked when you defeat Keisuke (Tsukuba)
*** -- unlocked when you defeat Keisuke and Takumi (Tsukuba), considered a free race (win or lose) in the 1st cycle of LOTS

Whenever you fight Bunta (win or lose) at any cycle, your card is automatically ejected after. This is also counted as a "play".





EDIT: To all the other guys. If there's a question you think that I should post here that n00bs always ask, tell me so I can edit.

This post has been edited by DamienWolf on Jun 12 2008, 07:08 PM
207
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 09:14 AM


39-54-369
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nice post, that should get newbs' attention. now for it to be a sticky..
Meteor
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 09:30 AM


Were you expecting something else?
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You missed the most n00biest question of all.

"How do I do teh dorifto?"

Anyway, I salute you.

*PM sent*

This post has been edited by Meteor on Dec 9 2007, 09:47 AM
J2.0
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 09:42 AM


2.0? wtf is that?
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Please sticky this thread!
shadow_z3r0
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 11:03 AM


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all hail wolf..

you also forgot to put that during battles, the course car doesn't get that 1kmph boost..

and course cars have insane accel on their homecourses
CoastalmixX
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 12:18 PM


The Solution
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I like it. Nice job once again.

*Pinned*
RB26TT
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 01:25 PM


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Wolf..irohazaka reverse got course car too compare cappucino

example mr2 have stable exit cornering and evo 3 have advantages on ms system
ive tried evo 3 on reverse its kinda powerful after exit the booat on kph speed accels fast compare to capu n mr2.

well,iro in story its mr 2 and evo 3 course car..base la

Wolf does ek9 have options like integra dc2 does in engine step 7 ?

example turbocharged or balance engine ?
razorsuKe
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 01:30 PM


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I came in here expecting to hate and possibly lock/move this thread.

Now, I don't even play the game and I like this thread hahaha

awesome. Not feelin' the all caps though
AP1
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 01:47 PM


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As a beginner, I must say this is actually very helpful. I was looking for one of these. Good work! happy.gif
207
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 02:38 PM


39-54-369
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the caps should alteast attract the attention of newbs. something must get their attention so they can avoid needlessly creating a new thread.
KTX
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 03:26 PM


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DamienWolf you're my hero cat.gif

This post has been edited by KTX on Dec 9 2007, 03:26 PM
xyeohts
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 04:38 PM


Inhale Exhale.. Fumes
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All Hail Wolf!!! Hope this kills the noobs for posting non-necessary threads.. all Hail king wolf.. haha..
?wha?
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 04:45 PM


In sexy black'n gold :D
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QUOTE
11) Does eraser still work?

- No. Everyone who tell you stuff like that or some "clutch kicking", are just acting cool and dont know jacksh*t about what they're talking about.


all hail the king of n00b slayers biggrin.gif clutch kick my foot..... WHERE'S THE CLUTCH XD XD
DK_2
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 05:46 PM


I wear purple pants. +1
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Haha. I have retarded friend that says that claims he runs a 1'00 on Akina DH... laugh2.gif What a nub.
Phoenix_Cypher_K1
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 09:06 PM


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QUOTE
Irohazaka DH - Toyota MR2 (course car because of every gear's top speed is higher than most cars by 1kph; ie: 4th gear is at 105kph)


Should say 3rd gear is at 105kph happy.gif
Mist
Posted: Dec 9 2007, 09:27 PM


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Hahaha, damn awesome post! Now we should all link to this post for all reasons and questions from noobs.
Retsuka
Posted: Dec 10 2007, 12:23 AM


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ooo ooo i got a question.

whats the time differencial between a 7-7-7-7-6 car and a 7-7-7-7-7 car on irohazaka uphill wet night.

lol.

jks jks, nice thread -.-", hopefully it'll lessen teh number of nub questions around o_o
iblizsatan
  Posted: Dec 10 2007, 01:56 AM


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thnx a lot man..4 the advice... currently i'm still doing 300'xxx on iro ddh with my trueno(normal engine,normal suspension, to keep it short i haven't change nothing, evendoe i got around 700k points) so... does my points collection affect my timing(with everything normal)? blink.gif
*j*j*
Posted: Dec 10 2007, 02:28 AM


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............NO..............
J]-[UN
Posted: Dec 10 2007, 03:49 AM


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Whats the exact timing to pc during countersteer when coming out of a corner after hitting the understeer point so that you only need to PC once to regain full acceleration and as early as possible?

This post has been edited by J]-[UN on Dec 10 2007, 03:50 AM
shadow_z3r0
Posted: Dec 10 2007, 04:10 AM


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QUOTE (J]-[UN @ Today at 3:49 AM)
Whats the exact timing to pc during countersteer when coming out of a corner after hitting the understeer point so that you only need to PC once to regain full acceleration and as early as possible?

this thread is only for noobs you pro
Kenji
Posted: Dec 10 2007, 05:17 AM


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Perhaps adding "How should I tune? 1-2-3-4-5 or 1-0-0-0-1 or etc etc" can be considered too, since that's the question that's gaining popularity lately.

Nevertheless, thumbsup.gif Wolf!
DamienWolf
  Posted: Dec 10 2007, 08:43 AM


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Thanks for the support guys. I've also added a few more questions that n00bs usually ask. First post is now edited.

@Meteor - Thanks for the PM to the mods.

@shadow_z3r0 - Added that as Question 5. Thanks.

@Coastalmixx - Thanks again for pinning. wink2.gif

@RB26TT - Thanks for the input. Iro reverse in Japan has been fought out by both the MR2 and the Cappa. The evo3 is a good car but is ranked as 2nd best car in the map for a reason. The MR2 has a more stable exit but still has the tendency to hit the outside wall. Moreover, since the cappa has a smaller size, it can do the best inside line in a course which is made up of curves. I'm sure you've probably tried all three cars as did me. So if I cant decide, I base it on the rankings both english and japan. Japanese Rankings have the cappa as number 1, evo3 as 2nd and MR2 as 3rd best car. English rankings have the MR2 at number 1. evo3 as 2nd and cappa as 3rd. So we can say that the MR2 and Cappa can be tied as the course car. Still, based on all my experience in the game, I prefer the cappa on the UH.

@razorsuKe - Thanks for the support, man. Sorry about the all caps but as somebody has pointed out, n00bs still miss out the stickies. If they see a thread with this title and all caps, n00b instinct would bring them in here.

@KTX - Your question has been added as question number 6.

@Phoenix_Cypher_K1 - Thanks, Phoenix. Missed that. Edited.

@Retsuka - Negative .001. grin2.gif

@iblizsatan - No.

@J]-[UN - It depends on the map, man. Tsukuba IB is an exception for me because I use almost 2 or 3 PCs just to stabilize the R34. But as you already probably know, the best time to PC is after "riding the lock". This means that you turn really early so that when the lock hits, you're still on the inside. Ride it until you get a chance to PC and stabilize your car. There are exceptions though. There are maps which you have to "cancel" the lock early so you can get a better line. This applies to Tsukuba OB (particularly the last turn and the 3rd to the last turn). My theory is the less PCs you can do, the faster your time. It all depends on when you do it so you have to be efficient and experiment until you get the timing right. I used to do 2 PCs in the 2nd turn of Akina as well as the roller parts of Tsukuba IB. Now I only use one PC.

@KenjiDc2 - Thanks. I remember ben or somebody else telling me to make a thread about that. I added it now. Its at question 8.
Mist
Posted: Dec 10 2007, 10:11 AM


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Lol now this thread seriously owns. Props to you DamienWolf

(One thing i've noticed, every time you edit the 1st post, the stupid names ie: Tak (Takumi) get added on longer and longer LOL)
DamienWolf
  Posted: Dec 10 2007, 10:21 AM


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QUOTE (Mist @ Today at 2:11 AM)
Lol now this thread seriously owns. Props to you DamienWolf

(One thing i've noticed, every time you edit the 1st post, the stupid names ie: Tak (Takumi) (Takumi) get added on longer and longer LOL)

Should be better now, LOL! Guess Perry still hasnt fixed that thing.

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