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Views: 5,664  ·  Replies: 38 
> lawlers rb25det r32
lawler
  Posted: Aug 5 2013, 05:12 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:05 AM
lawler
  Posted: Aug 15 2013, 05:41 PM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:02 AM
superchargedk20
Posted: Aug 17 2013, 12:39 AM


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Omg I love it so much. I hope you finish it. I want a r32 so bad. Stupid american laws. Please post more pics of ur progress. Keep up the good work!
lawler
  Posted: Aug 17 2013, 07:42 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:03 AM
sideways
Posted: Aug 17 2013, 11:31 PM


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QUOTE (lawler @ Aug 15 2013, 06:41 PM)
So decided some bigger brakes for a few club days would be a good idea

Left is stock 280mm and right is the 324mm kit on thr way

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv265/l...1.jpeg~original

Looks good. were you having trouble with brake fade previously? How much bigger are the front calipers vs the old ones? Will the brake bias still be alright or will there be a huge front bias with this new set up?
lawler
  Posted: Aug 18 2013, 12:43 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:04 AM
sideways
Posted: Aug 18 2013, 05:56 PM


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Just out of curiosity, when you say you had fading- Which part was fading? Was the pedal getting spongy to and dropping to the floor?

Awesome job on the LCAs btw
lawler
  Posted: Aug 18 2013, 09:07 PM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:10 AM
sideways
Posted: Aug 19 2013, 12:31 AM


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From a purely track oriented point of view, as far as thermal capacity, heat dissipation, and surface area go- "blanks" are hands down the choice to make and are better on the track than slotted (or drilled, if anyone is curious. For what its worth, with normal rotor materials, drilled rotors suck. Avoid them. They are inferior to blanks, are far more prone to failure, and pretty ricertastic) rotors.

Slotted rotors however do have their merits to consider. If youre getting your brakes hot enough that youre cooking the resins in the compound of the pads you can get whats known as glazing. Most times, glazing is pretty easy to deal with- literally scraping the pad on the ground can remove most (if not nearly all) of the glazing from a pad. But having slots in there will basically do it "automatically".

Mind you, If youre baking your pads this badly, ideally/realistically, you should get pads that are more appropriate for the temperatures that your brakes are seeing. But this isnt always done as easily as its said. Depending on how much track time you see and how serious you are, the required pads might be relatively too track oriented for the street for some people to want to deal with (in regards to cold behavior, dust, noise, etc)- which might necessitate a second set of pads- street pads and track pads- which can be a pain in their own right to deal with for some people and just not worth the efforts.

Slots do also benefit in the rain if your car has isues with getting the rotor/pads wet due to improper (or a lack of) shielding. Some cars can have a sketchy "first brake" when things are wet. Slotted rotors (and drilled even, one of the few "merits", but they still suck lol) give the water a place to go and can make its a bit more comfortable in the rain.

Btw, this is less for you lawler and more for anyone whos interested smile.gif Please dont get the wrong idea
lawler
  Posted: Aug 19 2013, 12:39 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:09 AM
lawler
  Posted: Aug 22 2013, 05:59 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:06 AM
lawler
  Posted: Aug 25 2013, 05:38 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:07 AM
lawler
  Posted: Sep 2 2013, 11:35 PM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:08 AM
lawler
  Posted: Sep 20 2013, 06:46 AM


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This post has been edited by lawler on Sep 23 2013, 02:09 AM

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