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Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Automotive Discussion > My 1990 240sx project...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 12 2007, 12:54 AM

so i sold my accord for personal reasons im not gonna get into...and i picked this up for about 1000... which isnt to bad i think.
SOHC, engine rebult about 5,000 miles ago, so it pulls pretty ok, not great

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please deviate ur eyes from the nissan racing sticker and removed bad boys bail bonds sticker on the rear, i did my best to remove them both lol

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day i picked her up

first and for most i needed ot loose the rims, just cuz
so i bought some pretty clean axxis wiht tires for a bout a 2 bills nothing big just makes it look nicer for now

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yes i knoe grand canyon freakin gap, simply put im thinkin AGX with eibach prokits should give it a nice slight drop, and not make it difficult to enjoy like my accord wiht a 2.5 inch drop....

lesson learned, L.A. is not friendly to lowered vehicles lol

so far its just been cleaning it up since i barely got it and have no job at the moment

but i was given a pretty clean zenki bumper to loose the pignose for now, the paint isnt as clean, but it just looks better to me in general, thought i learned that the pignose fenders are slightly diff from the zenki so i still need the fenders to get but for now its fine
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things done so far:
friend gave me front strut bar...so i ut it on lol
K&N Filter, reusable and its new, for now anyway
stereo... didnt have one, had to go to junk yard find a stereo wiring and rewire things but it works lol

to do list b4 anything else:
remove automated seatbelts for manual ( need info on that, anybody)
lsd... 1.5 should get me wut i need, im not goin to crazy...its a daily driver
suspension as mentioned about
considering 5 lug conversion from a 300zx, bigger pads and dual piston calippers should be a nice increase on braking power
decent paint job...or flat back motief lol
new driver seat...metal is pokin me and its rusted so it need to go
dont knoe wether to re rebuild this thing to handle boost, since ive seensome very well tuned SOHC KA handle...or go DOHC KA and boost...CA18 or Sr20...i need help people

so far
pos:
no more fwd, get to have some fun with this car
better gas IMO then my accord
I get to step out of my comfort zone of my honda world and into something new and intresting

cons:
this thing needs work
clutch fan doesnt turn off so i need to figure out if its the motor in the fan or some circuit problem or wut...help
shocks are blown, so im driving a boat rite now lol

cosmetics arnt to important to me... first and formost are important are seatbelts for now, and then suspension then engine....
like i said i need some insight on some 240 owners here, Floh i hope i can bug u from time to time if possible

planning on going ot GMR this weekend if time allows so hopefully i see someof u guys there that i knoe...

wish me luck and ill continue to add some info here as time passes

Posted by: EA99 Jun 12 2007, 01:03 AM

for the stickers try spraying some WD-40 and using a hair dryer or something for a while, then get a credit card and scrape it off! should come off easy. And repeat if it fails, also scrape lightly while its still hot

Though for 1k, thats a pretty good buy! THough, as it looks, you have a lot of things to do before it becomes clean and stock

Posted by: But she looked 18 officer Jun 12 2007, 01:16 AM

So what are you going to do with it(read:I'm not asking what stuff you are wanting to buy and install on it).
evo4life did a automated to standard seatbelt swap and IIRC he listed his how to in his 240sx thread.
Also check out freshalloy.com and nicoclub forums..(I think those were both decent..) The rest of the 240sx message boards are trash from what I've seen.

nice car. I would have kept the Nissan racing sticker. lol

hopefully floh will come out of hiding a little more advice.

Posted by: evo4life Jun 12 2007, 09:23 AM

Very nice for 1k!

Let see... You put on a chuki (shark nose) bumper and got rid of the zenki (pignose) bumper. For the fenders u dont need chuki fenders, just the fender extensions. They are small pieces you can just silicone on.

Im going to sell my adjust. kybs and eibach prokits pertty soon to get coilovers. 1yr on, less than 10k miles. Let me know if ur interested....

You can replace your auto seat belts with S14 manual seat bets, sentra seatbelts, or source Canadian s13 manual seatbelts. The process is pretty straight forward, just gotta remove those plastic pillars to disconnect the mechanism, and remove your seats to get to the other pieces behind the carpet.

For LSD it depends, you say you want something for daily driving, but I've heard that the clutch type lsds are overkill and noisy for daily driving, im not 100% sure on this as I have not been in a 240 with one. For drifting those are ideal but if want something more practical you can look into the s15 helical LSDs. Real good for everything else but drifting and better than a used vsld from a super hicas 240 model. s15 helicals are cheap in comparison to clutch type. Just throwing it out there.

Good luck!

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 12 2007, 10:27 AM

EA99: thanks bud ill deffinetly try itwhen i get some wd-40

But she looked 18 officer: im thinking just mild mountain driving during summer and spring, other wise maybe some autox for beginners and wut not, maybe some drifting... im not planning on going to crazy with it... just some spirited driving... as far as forums go iv only had a chance to join club240, since they have meets near by... and zilvia.net... so ill check those other forums for sure

evo4life: dude thanks for the info on the seat belts, i need these gone lol...
as far as LSD goes, i do plan on using this car for drifting, not extreme, just mild to get my feet wet... and i was told if ur on a budget going with a 1.5 delivers enough that A. u can get sidways...and B. it wont put a bullet hole in ur pocket... which i have found 1-2 for around 200$ i just didnt have the money to put up

...ohh and let me knoe how much u want ur set up for...are they still good and everything?

please any advice or suggestions are more than welcomed

Posted by: W.A.R Jun 12 2007, 10:43 AM

Scrape off the paint on the front bumper its already kinda faded and prime it.Maybe do the same to the hood.Its chump change to do it.

Me and a firend did it to his 240sx looks better too.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 12 2007, 11:36 AM

i dont think u understand how broke i am lol

but im going to probably primer the whole car in one day, 3 people, 2 sanders,a nd a box of flat black primer should do wonders, but later later

Posted by: AzNMaVbOi Jun 12 2007, 12:26 PM

Hey, how much did you actually sell the Accord for anyway?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 12 2007, 12:45 PM

lol 3500 lol

it ended having 210,000 on the odo

i sold it to a lady who just needed a car, and she took the offer and i was more than happy to sell it

why do u ask good sir

couple days b4 it was sold, the gen5 accord meet in huntington beach

ill miss it

but it had to go

Posted by: AzNMaVbOi Jun 12 2007, 01:29 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 1:45 PM)

lol 3500 lol

it ended having 210,000 on the odo

i sold it to a lady who just needed a car, and she took the offer and i was more than happy to sell it

why do u ask good sir

Just getting a ballpark on how much mine could go for. I have a lot less miles on the odo than you did (I'm at 93,000 miles right now) but I guess we'll have to see how much of a difference that makes when I sell the car.

Posted by: sideways Jun 12 2007, 02:55 PM

Flat black 240's = Ugly as fukk. Why do people kill decent paint jobs to make cars ugly? Just save up, wait to get it painted properly- The car honestly looks fine, no reason to go do some ridonkulus drifter mod.

Posted by: Sensation! Jun 12 2007, 03:10 PM

wewt! im gonna watch this!

If your gonna swap for SR, then im gonna keep a good eye on this topic.
since your car is below 91, im guessing your gonna need to switch PS lines and redo the ac compressor lines.

since im probably gonna end up getting a pre 91 240 as well, i would like to see you tackle the issues you have with your car.

Posted by: Godigy Jun 12 2007, 03:53 PM

Do teh flat black paint job. I think it'll look well on the car.

Posted by: Banken Jun 12 2007, 04:21 PM

1. Full 60,000 maintenance (oil, plugs, fuel filter, plug wires, PS fluid [flush and fill, then bleed), coolant, check belts, check wheel bearing play, adjust them necessary)

Check all the things that wear out slowly, like brake pads, rotor thickness, brake fluid (you should really go ahead and replace it with some quality synthetic fluids, but don't waste money on racing fluid).

Check for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks, fix any of them immediately.

Replace o2 sensor, and any of the cheaper fuel system sensors (ie, coolant temp, air temp, etc)... check for vacuum leaks (replace any hard or cracked hoses), set idle, set timing...etc, etc.

Make sure your new K&N filter is getting cold air, if it's not a drop-in filter for the stock box.

Replace the transmission fluid (assuming it's a manual) with Redline, Royal Purple, or Neo synethic fluid. High-dollar synethic fluids will make the car shift better. Replace the differential fluid with the same stuff (assuming you don't have an LSD...you probably don't).

Check for exhaust leaks as well... for sound and performance reasons.

Checker under the body for rust... you will need to fix it now or it will kill your car...someday.

2. Also, wash/wax that mofo and it might look a bit better.

3. An aftermarket steering wheel (if you don't have any steering wheel controls, like cruise control) and a spacer so you can have a proper sitting position for sports driving will make the whole driving experience a lot more fun. If you've got bad leg room like the stock FC wheel does, you'll LOVE the extra space.

4. Use a full bottle of a high-quality injector cleaner to help clean out your injectors a bit. It still won't do as much as removing them and having them professionally cleaned and flowbenched though, but it's easier. I also suggest removing and cleaning the throttle body with TB cleaner.

5. Finally, go through autocross/drift day tech inspection lists and check that everything is kosher. IE, make sure your battery is being held down by a solid metal holder of some sort.

But PLEASE don't do a flat black paint job.

Posted by: Möbius Jun 12 2007, 04:26 PM

QUOTE (sidewaysgts @ Today at 6:55 PM)

Same here.

Just buff the whole car really good, it looks like the paint is on OK shape.

Posted by: Sensation! Jun 12 2007, 09:19 PM

yea, no flat black

it just turns out looking dark gray.

my suggestion? respray the red..(or do what apex said and keep the paint)
theres a flat red 240 around southbay, but the thing looks orange and seems like it should be mixed with bondo.

hope it all goes well dalaz! update soon!

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 12 2007, 09:44 PM

QUOTE (sidewaysgts @ Today at 2:55 PM)

well the flat black is only to save money when i get a paint job...im only gonna do it couple days b4 i do the paint, and im going blue...red isnt my color, but thats the least of my worries, as far as the paint being in good condition...it isnt, there is horrible sunware on the top and various other places, ill post pics when i get a chance...

trouble shoot: why the hell doesnt my clutch fan turn the helll off, wut could it be? the damn thing is just killing me in higher revs and speed, sounds like a jet engine or something, its annoying, any suggestions...i was thinkikng of just disconnectiing the damn thing and letting natural air flow cool shit down in movement and turning on the heater when at a long stop, but thats probably just gonna cost me a hella of a lot more problems in the long run

2nd trouble shoot, when i step on the gas my brake light turn on....im assuming there might be a leak in the vaccume (sp) hoses...not getting enough air cpressure, or so im told, any ideas on that...

3rd trouble shoot, need to get A/C working for the summer, any way to check for leaks without having to go for the freon charge...?

Banken: iv checked for fuel and exaust leaks and i couldnt find any, and i have replace the fluids with synthetics were need be, royal purple FTW lol though i had ot drive to autobaucs in Stanton for it

Manfred von Karma : as i stated earlier, the flat black is only when i get it painted, actually i should of said primermy mistake...

NSX: as of rite now im indecisive on wut im going to do, rebuild this SOHC or drod in a DOHC boost, or Sr or even CA...im honestly not sure, i knoe the more common swap around my parks is an SR, but i dun have the funds for it currently, i was thinking of possibly going with a DOHC KA for a while, then go the next step when funds are more available for an SR...

Posted by: EA99 Jun 12 2007, 10:02 PM

Save up for the SR, good starting engine block. Theres no point modifying an engine you won't keep in the long run. Just maintain it and keep it going until funds are apparent and the SR is available. Now the A/c... I would get that fixed straight away by a professional, just get it re-gassed and ask them to check for leaks, My Air-con is nice

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 12 2007, 10:27 PM

well thats the thing, iv seen some KAs perform better than some Sr's, dunno if thats lack of ability in the Sr owner or i dunno

so im up in the air rite now, though i must admit after rreading Evo4life's thread, has inspired me to somewut keep my current engine...

Posted by: evo4life Jun 12 2007, 10:52 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 9:44 PM)

clutch fans never turn off when the engine is on. Its not like electrical fans that kick in at a certain temp.

That 'jet engine' sound may be bad bearings. Take out the fan + clutch behind it and check the bearings on it. I'd replace it if it looks bad.

I'll PM you tomorrow regarding my shock/springs

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 13 2007, 12:46 AM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Yesterday at 10:52 PM)

ITS so LOUD lol

aite i guess its time to get greasy again...ill do it this weekend if anything

time to go to the junk yard lol

just more pics for u guys to see the sun wear i was talking about...
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hood

top

trunk

rear side

the pics dont do it justice to how bad it all is lol

interior
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the big shabang
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eye sore of a crack
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pioneer stereo...for a 100 bucks it wasnt a bad deal...no more dead silence during long drives atleast

engine
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Posted by: Banken Jun 13 2007, 02:04 PM

You can probably buff and wax a LOT of that worn paint shiny again.

And IMO, machine-buffed and hand-waxed sun-beaten OEM paint still looks a hell of a lot better than rattle can flat black.

About the dash, I'd say Armor-All that b*tch and call it a day. Rattles and buzzing are a lot more annoying than a slightly cracked dash.

One mod you might like is, pop off the stock rubber pedal pads and put skateboard tape on there... gives you a bit more leg room if you need it (I did, in my FC...), and yes, you will be able to notice the extra 1/4" of legroom, if the 240SX is anything like an FC.

Also, take off the gas pedal cover, and trace it onto some thick sheet metal from Ace Hardware (7 bucks a sheet), then re-draw it so it looks the same, except it's wider (on the left side only), then get a metal worker to cut that piece out (don't bother trying it with han$ tools), and smooth out the edges on a grinder. Then drill holes in the appropriate place and bolt it onto the stock gas pedal (minus the rubber or plastic cover). With a round-headed bolt of small size, not a hex bolt, of course...

A wider gas pedal makes it 20-30% easier to heel-and-toe downshift, since you get better leverage on the throttle without having to move your ankle as much.

Another mod I did involves removing the stock clutch stopper, drilling the hole out to make it better, and feeding an appropriately sized bolt into it, with washers used to make it thicker than the stock stopper. Then put a not on the other side to keep it in place, and wrap it with some electrical tape to keep it from making too much noise (actually I need to work on that part, since it tends to come off).

This will make you not have to put your leg all the way to the floor, since you've probably got a bit of slack in the clutch anyway, and if not, you can adjust it so it still works the same as normal (the clutch pedal might be out a bit further than normal though... but that's not a big deal).

This lets you sit further away from the wheel (I still suggest getting a steering wheel and fairly big spacer, or a wheel with a big offset, like a rally/drifting style wheel)... although I don't know whether this is really necessary on an S13... Which is important if you've got long legs, but short arms... especially with the massive stock steering wheel.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 13 2007, 03:21 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ Today at 2:04 PM)

You can probably buff and wax a LOT of that worn paint shiny again.

And IMO, machine-buffed and hand-waxed sun-beaten OEM paint still looks a hell of a lot better than rattle can flat black.

About the dash, I'd say Armor-All that b*tch and call it a day. Rattles and buzzing are a lot more annoying than a slightly cracked dash.

One mod you might like is, pop off the stock rubber pedal pads and put skateboard tape on there... gives you a bit more leg room if you need it (I did, in my FC...), and yes, you will be able to notice the extra 1/4" of legroom, if the 240SX is anything like an FC.

Also, take off the gas pedal cover, and trace it onto some thick sheet metal from Ace Hardware (7 bucks a sheet), then re-draw it so it looks the same, except it's wider (on the left side only), then get a metal worker to cut that piece out (don't bother trying it with hand tools), and smooth out the edges on a grinder. Then drill holes in the appropriate place and bolt it onto the stock gas pedal (minus the rubber or plastic cover). With a round-headed bolt of small size, not a hex bolt, of course...

A wider gas pedal makes it 20-30% easier to heel-and-toe downshift, since you get better leverage on the throttle without having to move your ankle as much.

Another mod I did involves removing the stock clutch stopper, drilling the hole out to make it better, and feeding an appropriately sized bolt into it, with washers used to make it thicker than the stock stopper. Then put a not on the other side to keep it in place, and wrap it with some electrical tape to keep it from making too much noise (actually I need to work on that part, since it tends to come off).

This will make you not have to put your leg all the way to the floor, since you've probably got a bit of slack in the clutch anyway, and if not, you can adjust it so it still works the same as normal (the clutch pedal might be out a bit further than normal though... but that's not a big deal).

This lets you sit further away from the wheel (I still suggest getting a steering wheel and fairly big spacer, or a wheel with a big offset, like a rally/drifting style wheel)... although I don't know whether this is really necessary on an S13... Which is important if you've got long legs, but short arms... especially with the massive stock steering wheel.

as far as the pedals go, im fine... my feet are wide and fat enough that i can practically be on both the gas and brake without moving to much lol

as far the steering wheel im considering not just getting a spacer...but a smaller diameter ( or is it curcumference) wheel from MOMO...i always thought there wheels feel pretty good...

ive tried buffind that shit out, hell i even took it to the wash and had some pros try, its too far gone on some sections

Posted by: evo4life Jun 13 2007, 04:17 PM

I'm planning to get coilovers by next month so ill keep you informed.

KAs are pretty tough engines....sometimes plagued with small probs but they'll still run. Id say keep it, maintain it properly and worry about everything else first then decide what you want to do with the engine, especially if its been 'rebuilt.' My old engine had 232,000 miles when i bought the car. Ran like crap, but after a full tune up and getting rid of all the small problems, it ran surprisingly well. I still have it and will continue to use it as a parts engine when needed.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 13 2007, 05:27 PM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 4:17 PM)

thats wut im thinkin of doing, is getting another engine t the yard near by with a manual tranny, and do some minor work on it while i beat this thing... but ill see wut happens...

and i knoe the KA is a tough booger, but would u think going DOHC KA would make a difference worth making

Flohpoint...any insight on this, even though u run a Sr20 i think...?

Posted by: projectdfan Jun 14 2007, 06:46 PM

did you ever thought about a RB25 swap?? don't do it. im currently fixing my cousin one and man does it suck. gawd damn wiring. shoulda got the sr instead.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 14 2007, 07:49 PM

QUOTE (projectdfan @ Today at 6:46 PM)

did you ever thought about a RB25 swap?? don't do it. im currently fixing my cousin one and man does it suck. gawd damn wiring. shoulda got the sr instead.

LOL hell no...

to expensive, and like u noticed, and iv herd...HEADACHE

update:

so we took my car to GMR and let my friend drive a couple runs since hes a veteran there, must say even with a shitty suspension, bad tires, and my fat ass in the car, i could see my cars potential easily...

but it survived 4 four runs, so its not that bad...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 18 2007, 03:03 PM

Well as posted on my previous post i was able to survive my trip to GMR... lol

car swayed like crazy because of the shocks and it was slow uphill, but i guess thats how it is for now...

went to the junk yard... things i wanted ot find were manual seat belts from a sentra or 240 s14...didnt find either lol
but i was able to find a foot rest and the side trim cover were the fuse box is located... it was exposed and i hated not having the foot rest, and or th cover cuz i had the tendency to kickin that area exiting the car... but yay, 5 bucks later i got both pieces
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picture of both pieces installed...atleast my insterior is complete now lol

ohh and funny thing, we were at the yard, and i see a 240 (same year as mine) being brought in from the back yard to the public yard and since i was the first one there i hacked this lil thing off
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im thinking of just welding it on for the hell of it, dunno much about it...but since this is a beater, i dont mined experimenting with it... i am gonna get a totally new exaust and heads later, im just having some hilarious fun for now

as expected...

the bearing was bad and totally jammed...
bought new clutch fan for about 45$$$ and took about 20-45 mins to install...we were to lazy to take off the cover and wut not...biuggest problem was we broke the dam tension bolt for the alternator and had to go to 2 autozones to locate a propper fit...other wise 2 cigs later it is done ... thanks for the advice on that Evo4life... helped out alot

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 23 2007, 07:07 PM

Clutch Fan works great...

got the Exaust installed and Sraight pipped for the hell of it...local shop charged me 45 for it... its not that bad actually...

ill post pics of the exaust installed when i get a camera

Posted by: evo4life Jun 23 2007, 10:37 PM

Thats great about the clutch fan. I'm glad you fixed it.

Post up vids of the exhaust. When I read you were going to weld it on, i was worried about the sound but you say it doesnt sound so bad. It's just that im so used to seeing (mostly) hondas with slap on exhausts that sound terrible (esp. in LA).

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jun 23 2007, 11:46 PM

well I wish I could...but camera was sold due to money probs

the sound is good for it being used...so its ok...I'm going to get it removed later and get something new

but I can get a pic from my phono wen I get a chance

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woke up yesterday morning and i noticed something different about my car...it was tinted...

not tinted
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tinted

it was my brothers late birthday present...

con: cant roll the windows down for another day...
pro: rite in time for summer, and i have my A/C working once again lol

noticed a slight leak on the valve cover so i took it off and bought a new gasket from autozone (round 16.00$)

when i opened her up check this out
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its actually pretty clean...i checked it up and actually its pretty clean compared to other KA iv opened up in junkyard with LESS mileage...i guess it was true that the egine had a rebuild...to bad it wasnt a DOHC...cuz now im considering getting the head of a 95-98 240 DOHC KA and droping it on my block...though im still in quiestion wether the head and block will actually fit each other...from wut im told longer stroke...means more POWAH!!! lol not much but for a drop in it wouldnt be to bad...

Flohtingpoint any help on this...Evo4life ???

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 4 2007, 11:42 PM

damn another pain in the ass today

so im driving to pull ur parts ( half off sale) and i get to the one off pacific coast HWY...i find a 300zx with calipers, basically a full conversion and VLSD at half off, i get the hubs and calipers off and forget my wallet in my car, so i hide the parts and go out and get my wallet, when i get back...parts gone....

no respect... there went about an hours worth of work....f**ken aye

so im driving back pissed, with nothing to show for except dirt and grease everywhere...and i notice my temp gauge shooting up...f**ken aye

so i get home and pop the hood, leakage!...

so time for the woprk gloves...

drained colant ( which revealed i need a flush asap) disconnected hoses, removed fan cover and radiator...

loosen tension on belt...removed clutch fan removed water pump, replace with new ( 35+ tax autozone) new upper and lower hoses and new thermostat since it was easy to get to at the moment...

hour and a half and 2 cigerettes later... and were done...

i couldnt take pics since we were fighting the sun wen it got cool enough to do the work around here...

all in all productive day, but dissappointing in junkyard

Posted by: HorizontalMitsubishi Jul 6 2007, 08:29 AM

ahh so your the one that took the calipers off that 300z. lol yeah i saw that one. i was there is nsx and we were looking for a manual 13 we could steal some pedals off of, lol.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 6 2007, 01:36 PM

yeah but some ass monkey jacked me...

BTW mark my f**ken car broke down at GMR last night, just ask MAx he was there when it happened

Posted by: Sensation! Jul 7 2007, 03:48 AM

oh man Dalaz

you took my brakes:(
at least your 240 works the way its supposed to..

Posted by: HorizontalMitsubishi Jul 7 2007, 09:03 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Yesterday at 1:36 PM)

yeah but some ass monkey jacked me...

BTW mark my f**ken car broke down at GMR last night, just ask MAx he was there when it happened

so what broke on your car?

Posted by: backalleyracer Jul 7 2007, 05:31 PM

good thing you had freinds there i guess

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 7 2007, 11:33 PM

QUOTE (sidewaysstarion @ Today at 9:03 AM)

so what broke on your car?

i coolant line that ran to the heater core i believe?!

simply put if was a pretty easy fix if someone had ductape, which no one did

but today the fuel pumnp went out, and 90 bucks later its back to working...sadly though, now theresa knock in the engine, sounds like valve problem...it never ends...

Posted by: Rudy Jul 7 2007, 11:50 PM

Seems it's time for a CA18 swap

Posted by: Toshi Jul 8 2007, 02:24 AM

https://youtube.com/watch?v=VaLRaoZZDiw

Watch that it will give you some goals : )

Overall man avoid stupid shit like 5 lug swap and stuff like that. Just keep it running. 5 lug isnt gonna give you any performance advantages. Get some Megan Coilovers or something else.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 8 2007, 09:21 AM

i knoe all that, my goal is a KA swap from a 95+ 240sx, DOHC and its just enough to go sidways

Posted by: Toshi Jul 8 2007, 08:34 PM

If i were you (which I am not) keep your engine running well and just get as much track time as you can. Parts will not make you get sideways. But track time will. Track time is more important than engine power suspension or anything else. Get out to a drift day and see what you can do! you are in socal there are enough of events out there to keep you buys for a while.

I have stock everything in my 92 and I can drive better than people with coilovers and srs and shit. GO OUT AND DRIVE!

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 8 2007, 09:41 PM

i need my car to start first and formost....

simply put my car is dead rite now

things replaced and or fixed

new fuel pump,filter,strainer,thermostat,water pump...coil...it cranks, fuel pump is primming, but the f*ucking thing wont start...plenty of spark in the plugs, fresh new oil...

any clues

Posted by: evo4life Jul 9 2007, 08:22 AM

I saw your thread on NICO too. After replacing the fuel pump, was the car still working? Or did it immediately stop working after changing that pump?

The closest thing I ever encounter was not tightening the fuel line enough after the fuel filter. I guess it lost pressure and the car would crank and crank and eventually start, but never did it completely fail me.

Posted by: Rudy Jul 9 2007, 08:25 AM

I was about to say, fuel filter as well. Check that out first.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 9 2007, 10:56 AM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 8:22 AM)

first thing we checked, and its fione, its installed properly and there no pinches in the lines anywhere,

when the new fuel pump,strainer, and filter were installed, yeah it worked, but i park, and next thing u knoe when i go back to leave from my friends, no go...

Posted by: Rudy Jul 9 2007, 12:28 PM

Hm.... some kind of vapor lock? Fuel pump/EFI fuse blown?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 9 2007, 02:28 PM

i checked the fuses, there all fine...fuel pump is brand new, we just installed it, and it pumping fine

Posted by: backalleyracer Jul 9 2007, 03:15 PM

does it even turn over ?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 9 2007, 06:49 PM

u mean crank over yes, it cranks

Posted by: HorizontalMitsubishi Jul 9 2007, 09:17 PM

well it sounds like its fuel related. i wonder if you have power going to your injectoers... injector resistor maybe..? also check to see if you have fule pressure. go pinch the line in the engine bay and have someone try to start the car and see if you can feel pressure inside of the line. also check the ecu to make sure it has power. pull it out and turn the key to the on position and on the bottom there are two leds, if those are lite then your ecu is good.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 9 2007, 09:42 PM

did wut u said good sir, ECU seems good since both lights are on

and theres pressure in the line aswell....

i dunno how to check the injectors or any of that...i dont wanna crap it out worst....

Posted by: backalleyracer Jul 9 2007, 11:50 PM

have you checked to see if it getting spark, however, if it is cranking over, it probley is

its kinda real simple BUT a car needs 3 things to start : spark, fuel, timing, it seems the a lot of the fuel issues have been checked out

but to check the injectors in a safe manner, only thing i can think of it open up the area to your ecu(or maybe a relay) and get a multi muter and see which wire is the one that leads to the injectors and basically see if it is getting volts, obviously you would need a haynes manuel or something simlar for that one

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 10 2007, 09:33 AM

iv checked spark iv checked fuel...

Posted by: evo4life Jul 10 2007, 01:21 PM

just check for ecu codes and see if anything comes up. First light is a goes by units of ten and the second one goes by units of one. So if the first lights blinks 5 times....thats 50, and if the second light blinks 5 times....thats 5....so you are getting code 55...nothing wrong. Do a search on NICO and you can download a free FSM for the KAE. It will have a section on how to run a code check on your ecu. You don't need any additional special equipment. You can also just run the code check and tell me which code you get. I always have my chilton's manual in my car.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 10 2007, 04:22 PM

ok so after checkin everything, we went back to the pump...opened it up and well
wut the hell, the pump work, but the hose line is just busted open...repaired line, now car works...

now all i gotta worry about is the knock in my engine

Posted by: sideways Jul 10 2007, 05:58 PM

Oh well thanfkully ka24s are filthy cheap for a long block. Ive seen them given away perfectly fine and running ka's for -free- if you went and picked it up.

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 10 2007, 07:01 PM

Get rid of that peice of shit KA. Ka is rubbish. Any 4cly n/a is rubbish for that matter /looks at honda. Drop an SR20DET in there asap.

I am from australia, This is my mates car. Pretty medicore for a 180sx.

Pic Related (Mates car):
user posted image

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 10 2007, 11:06 PM

QUOTE (pedrotski @ Today at 7:01 PM)

i think ill keep my rubbish a lil longer

any engine can be a hassle... but it runs now so its ok

Posted by: Rudy Jul 11 2007, 12:40 PM

I'm pretty sure Floh runs CA18.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 11 2007, 01:06 PM

from wut i remember hes ran both CA and SR...

Posted by: Rudy Jul 11 2007, 01:12 PM

Yeah, because he's too much of a wimp to play with an FJ20.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 11 2007, 01:19 PM

lol ouch...i dunno...im thinking for now just DOHC KA and see wut i can do with il money i can put into it...

later when my job pays more, then Sr or CA

maybe RB20

Posted by: Rudy Jul 11 2007, 01:21 PM

Even read up on the FJ? It was actually an S12 engine.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 11 2007, 06:30 PM

nah iv red about though, i just dont wanna go to old of an engine on it...

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 11 2007, 08:18 PM

In aus, Some people do RB conversions to the 180sx(240). But it ruins weight distribution. That and people tend to go much faster with SR

Also DALAZ_68. If you were going to choose another engine when you have money, I woudnt compare the CA. with the SR/RB20. If you wanted somthing with alot of power, You could try RB25

Also, Are all 240sx's based on the 88/89/90 spec CA 180sx's?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 11 2007, 08:53 PM

QUOTE (pedrotski @ Today at 8:18 PM)

Also DALAZ_68. If you were going to choose another engine when you have money, I woudnt compare the CA. with the SR/RB20. If you wanted somthing with alot of power, You could try RB25

i would, but i herd and have seen a few 240s with Rb25, that have had problems, problems i dont wanna deal with...

plus going RB20- or even 25 is to much i think, im not looking into having this car forever...this car is probably gonna have only 1 and half with me b4 my credit is built enough for me to buy a car off the lot... so putting to much into this car is not an option for me...the max im considering putting into it is around 4k, Sr swap iv found someone for 1800 complete with PS atleast, 500 plus if i want working A/C...

KA swap i and my friends can do ourselves...so ill only be payin for the engine + tranny, most likely new clutch, and a cheery picker...

but im just looking to have my fun for now

if i was considering making this into a career, then i would already own a nicely tuned car...

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 11 2007, 09:14 PM

I have only seen a few RB swaps. So i havnt seen many problems but i can imagine that they would be there

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 12 2007, 08:31 AM

Put a L28ET hehehe old skool and you will have a shit load of tq! OLD Z MOTORS FOR THE WIN!

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 12 2007, 10:54 AM

going to old would have problems with resources for parts...

Update...opened up the valve cover and damn...my timing chain is looser than a hooker on the streets of hollywood...

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 13 2007, 09:47 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Yesterday at 10:54 AM)

going to old would have problems with resources for parts...

Update...opened up the valve cover and damn...my timing chain is looser than a hooker on the streets of hollywood...

ummm are you serious? I take it you do not know of the L series motor... THERES TONS OF PARTS more then the crappy ka.... and its more reliable torqey and more power! yea! so please if you do not know what you are talking about stay out of conversation....

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Jul 13 2007, 09:59 AM

QUOTE

In which you need to calm down. If you haven't realized, THIS is HIS thread. And he has already clearly mentioned he doesn't want to have to go thru many irritating problems.

The Z engine is not bad by any means whatsoever, but it depends on a persons taste.

NOW, stop bumping and waving your E-Penis and take a chill pill, thank you.

Oh, and get your eyes fixed next time.

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 13 2007, 11:30 AM

QUOTE (Ayako Watanabe @ Today at 9:59 AM)

if i wanted a good cum back id wipe it off your face

now im done "wavin my E-penis" as u say

Posted by: Kerxn Jul 13 2007, 11:38 AM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Today at 2:30 PM)

if i wanted a good cum back id wipe it off your face

now im done "wavin my E-penis" as u say

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

Refrain from doing that again. Ever.

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Jul 13 2007, 12:36 PM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Today at 12:30 PM)

if i wanted a good cum back id wipe it off your face

now im done "wavin my E-penis" as u say

[sarcasm]Oh wow, I feel absolutely hurt by yours as well. I am, how they say? Pwned? Owned? Yes, something like that, so oh dear, oh god, I think I'm going emo so Imma gnna cut myself cuz I've been pwned by the greatest E-Penis in the Universe, Oh no, help me[end of sarcasm]......

Dalaz: Stick with the engine you have for the moment, don't rush things. When you get bored you can go ahead and either modify it slightly or swap in a better engine of your choice, in which, you think, its the right choice for you, your price range, and your car.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 13 2007, 03:58 PM

QUOTE (Ayako Watanabe @ Today at 9:59 AM)

thanks for the back up good sir, im happy someone has been paying attention **e-cookie for u **

as far as the engine, ive found a possible donor, possible 80Kmiles DOHC from a kouki 98 s14....only prob is i have to wait a month...

but i knoe sidewaysstarion is gonna also try to see if he can help me out...

timing chain kit is about 35 bucks, cheapest i found anyway... only problem is im broke at the moment and im tryin to sell my R/c Nitro for atleast 350 to get some money to fix this irritating problem and to buy other neccesities, such as a new seat, and helmet for autoX events...

im considering the DOHC KA curently because if i dont have a choice in a month or so when my friend drops an S15 Sr into his s14, hes gonna gimme the whole swap for free...but i rather have anything now...

might possibly have someone else give me his SOHC KA he pulling from his s13 for his sr swap aswell... but then again its a waiting game...

i just hope sidewaysstarion or my other 2 friends can help me out b4 it becomes a bigger problem

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Jul 13 2007, 04:10 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 4:58 PM)

No Problem

Just be patient. The time will come, but its always good to keep an eye on things just in case. Its good to have friends to help you as well =D

I just wish I knew friends who have tranmission and motors to donate to me for free in working condition ~_~

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 13 2007, 06:16 PM

QUOTE (Ayako Watanabe @ Today at 4:10 PM)

No Problem

im being patient...
it was so horrible tday for me...had to go do laundry, so i drove my car... the shaking through the car was horendous at idle... felt like i had a personal earthquake...

and well i can only hope they come through for me...patience is a virtue i posses....but im doubtfull my car is as linient to the idea

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 16 2007, 09:17 AM

QUOTE (Kerxn @ Jul 13 2007, 11:38 AM)

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

Refrain from doing that again. Ever.

thank you grand master i have learned my lesson no more baggin on kids that dont know there stuff about cars...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 16 2007, 10:12 PM

please just leave my thread...ur obviously imature, or wanna be knowit all... christ

well the KA is dying,,,and dying fast....

now im just waiting to see wut happens

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 16 2007, 10:50 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 10:12 PM)

please just leave my thread...ur obviously imature, or wanna be knowit all... christ

well the KA is dying,,,and dying fast....

now im just waiting to see wut happens

wana be know it all? Im a mulit state champ with automotive exclence... Weber state and CCSN state finalest and Skills 2nd place holder for state.. so i know my shit people that know me know my skills so watch who your taking to.. the ka is crap i use to own a 240 before i understood that there are REAL SPORTS CARS like tha zed and what not... the ka is good for a paper weight and for spining bearings and frying rings.... its just a bad motor.... im sorry to be so blunt it just sux... unless u spend an arm in a leg building a pos motor... when you could just be like everyone else and put an sr.... or be smart and do rb20... rev happy and bullet proof.... think about it....

Posted by: backalleyracer Jul 16 2007, 10:52 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 10:12 PM)

please just leave my thread...ur obviously imature, or wanna be knowit all... christ

wanna be know it all ??

lmao,

he knows a hell of a lot more than you will my freind

Posted by: V0|t Jul 16 2007, 11:00 PM

ok Um no, You fail, cpt and alley know their shit, you dont end of topic. Rb20 Ftw or be cool and go for a rb25, or do you know what that is? hmm yes maybe? so lets learn here people. KNOW YOUR STUFF BEFORE YOU TALK OUT OF YOUR A55

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 16 2007, 11:11 PM

Why RB20 if you are smart?

Posted by: V0|t Jul 16 2007, 11:13 PM

As cpt said Rev happy and bullet proof. not to mention, firewall doesnt need to be cut, its cheap and did I mention high revs...like 13k?? thats like 20b status

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 16 2007, 11:34 PM

13k, Is that stock. I mean, My dads 502 chev revs at about 20k but thats with nos on. Why dont they put the super reving RB in the RX7's then.

edit. thats on idle.

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 17 2007, 12:16 AM

QUOTE (pedrotski @ Yesterday at 11:34 PM)

13k, Is that stock. I mean, My dads 502 chev revs at about 20k but thats with nos on. Why dont they put the super reving RB in the RX7's then.

edit. thats on idle.

13k is not stock but not much has to be done to have it reach that... 20k? u mean he can hit that once right? and rx-7 rotray experiment... not piston experiment since we all know it works... do all you kids just think of ways to try to make you sound smarter?

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 17 2007, 12:22 AM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Today at 12:16 AM)

I'm not trying to make myself look smart. There are rumors of RB20's hitting 13k, Most are about 10 but they have had major work done on the internals. Hitting RPM's like that is just stupid anyway because the engine would be so unreliable for street driving, Track racing even.

Oh and if didn't notice. My Last post was a joke.

Posted by: evo4life Jul 17 2007, 07:51 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Yesterday at 10:12 PM)

please just leave my thread...ur obviously imature, or wanna be knowit all... christ

well the KA is dying,,,and dying fast....

now im just waiting to see wut happens

Why is the KA dying? Have you fixed your timing chain?

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 17 2007, 08:34 AM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 7:51 AM)

Why is the KA dying? Have you fixed your timing chain?

when i had my crap tastic ka it had blow by (rings) timing chain slap (old timing chaing and guides, and it had nock (spun bearings)

Posted by: Rudy Jul 17 2007, 08:38 AM

When it gets rod knock, do a top speed run to see if it'll survive.

7M owner tradition

Posted by: Sensation! Jul 17 2007, 12:13 PM

how bad is your car at idle dalaz?
does it stall when you put it in reverse?!

i guess this is what people like us get when we buy 1K 240s...

you still havent got back to me on the smog thing yet

but hey, swap out that KA

it seems like it wont last too long either

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 17 2007, 01:38 PM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Yesterday at 10:50 PM)

the one thing thats annoying about u constantly in this thread is that u keep insisting Rb Sr or wut ever other f-ucking engine u mention, how many times have i said im currently broke, and swaping rite now is not an option, iv had it with the redundency of ur post... the KA is strong but it isnt god, iv said it, but its a good poor mans engine...im not plaining on blowing my load on a KA, but for now, since its all v got its wut ima use...

and frankly i dont have to watch who im talking to...u clicked into my thread...u can jhust as easily leave...dont gimme attitude over the damn net, wits pretty dumb and sad frankly

w/e im done with that

evo4life: it not just the chain anymore its the valve i believe are slapping or not completely closing....

heres is a video of the sound...maybe itll help
https://youtube.com/watch?v=qhjL5hKKmCA

NSX: sorry i havent gotten back to you yet, im waiting for my friend to buy a new phone and transfer the info over to it so i can get the number, do u have a time limit? let me knoe on PM

Posted by: AzNMaVbOi Jul 17 2007, 03:11 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 2:38 PM)

It also doesn't help when the guy doesn't realize that RB engines are illegal within the United States, and especially California, where emissions standards are excessively strict. The only SR engine that is legal in the United States is the NA SR20DE that was in the Infiniti G20.

Posted by: pedrotski Jul 17 2007, 04:00 PM

God you guys have it bad over there. Its like, I feel for you.

Posted by: evo4life Jul 17 2007, 05:18 PM

Thats a terrible sound. Sort of like a lawmower when you open the throttle.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 17 2007, 05:39 PM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 5:18 PM)

Thats a terrible sound. Sort of like a lawmower when you open the throttle.

LOL thats exactly wut me and my friend said when we herd it at the same time '' F-uck...sounds like a lawnmower"

lol **laughing and crying simultaniously**

QUOTE (AzNMaVbOi)

its doesnt really matter...there so many crooked smoggers in L.A. alone that will pass a car without even looking at it...just need the rite price

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 17 2007, 06:58 PM

lol this kid... why not try solving the problem insted of b*tching? did you do a dead cylinder test? did you do a compression test? did you check timing? Check plugs? i mean seriosuly... AND DO NOT BUY A 240 IF YOU DO NOT HAVE MONEY... and even if you do have money you wont have much for long.... im in here tellin you the truth man insted of kissin ass im tellin you what i think its america i can do that cant i? check those things and get back to me.. and if you dont know how to do the test's here ill tell u! and ps your ka sounded like mine before it died... u sound like your only running on 2 cylinders.....

1.) Dead cylinder test.... pull the spark plug wires from the spark plug one by one HEAR! for a sound diffrence and the idle and even if it dies....

2.) Borrow or if you have a compression tester disconect the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the ignition coil wire... and test each cylinder one by one to check for the compression... hell you can even do a leak down test but compression is alot easier and alot faster....

3.) Timing light look up what your timing should be retarted or advanced

4.) Take each plug out one by one LOOK AT THEM HARD! SMELL THEM! they oily? REALLY REALLY DARK BLACK? (RUNNING SUPER RICH), will cause the electrode to basicly ground its self... SUPER CLEAN = BLOWN HEADGASKET! i mean the spark plugs will tell you alot about your car....

5.) Take the cap and rotor off check if there is any arking goin on under tha cap, make sure all connections to the rotor and cap are clean,, check for play on the shaft of the rotor... stupid stuff... always try to get bronze tiped rotor and cap ALOT BETTER THEN ALUMINUM....

6.) Check the dip stick!... why? if its milky ur f**ked.. if theres slight remence in the oil that means you have a slighly blown headgasket and is possilby saveable....

7.) Check injectors to see if they are working.... unplug one by one its like doing a dead cylinder test but for fuel.... it can help narrow down... like if you do the dead cylinder test on the spark plug and it did nothing and you did the fuel and its same thing then there...

8.) DONT GET PISSED! thats it do these get back to me... maybe its not dying maybe its just outa tune...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 17 2007, 09:39 PM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Today at 6:58 PM)

trust me the last thing im doing is b*tching...im just tryin to ask previous or current 240 owners wut it might be, im the first to admit i dont knoe all the answers, but the way u came off isnt exactly friendly approchable

2nd. i did have money but family situation came up and i lean towards family more so than my car....sue me...i didnt expect something to happen in my family...so it wasnt that i bought it broke no cash, i bouthg it with plans and money, but financial situation shifted...im just sayin to clear things up about why im in such a rut and not already rockin the CA i had planned in dropping in a month ago...

3rd... im not askin u to kiss ass, frankly kiss asses are dispicable and sorry people that should have been drowned at birth...i just expect a more calm approach...

ill try ur suggestion tomorrow...i believe my friend has a tester for compression ill ask him manana

Posted by: Junon Jul 17 2007, 10:08 PM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Yesterday at 10:50 PM)

Back up your nonsensical statements. Because it's obvious you don't have any real experience with 240's, KA's, and RB's.

I find it hard to believe you're a "mulit state champ with automotive exclence" when you can't even spell excellence nor multi. Not to mention a number of other grammatical/spelling errors in your random posts of gibberish.

In regards to the "don't buy a 240 unless you have money statement". Your logic never ceases to amaze me. The 240 is one of the cheapest cars to build. Parts are readily available, and cheap on top of that. Why do you think it's the "new civic"?

To the original poster, check out this thread: https://idforums.net/index.php?showtopic=30378

I just posted some basic info on the KA builds. I'd recommend starting off with that. Please take it from someone with experience, the KA is a great engine. Just because it's "not JDM", doesn't mean it's crap.

And cpt jack, before you ask. Yes I've owned a 240. I've owned 2: a 1991 with a KA that I did minor all motor mods, then a 1990 coupe which I swapped an SR. I also helped a buddy of mine with his rb25det powered 1998 240sx.

In addition to that, I've owned an evo, and currently an FD. So don't bother questioning my experience.

Posted by: cpt jack Jul 17 2007, 11:07 PM

QUOTE (Junon @ Today at 10:08 PM)

hahahah im not the best speller as u can tell i do have credits my friend backalley and volt know me quite well... i got 13k in scolorships and what not... so i do not have to prove shit... and i have owned a 1990 240sx.... the motor is quite simple no real tricks needed and u own and FD? and an EVO? how old are you? and just because you own the cars does not mean you know what you are talking about.... so congrats on proving nothing

yeeeeaa to you! I know what i am talkin about so unless you have something to add to what i wrote i really dont give a shit about u or who you are... just tryin to help this kid get his ka diagnosed and maybe he can fix it if its not to far gone....

sound like a plan? ok then....

and ps... the ka is a jdm motor yo! came in trucks =)

Posted by: Junon Jul 17 2007, 11:16 PM

I'm 22. I sold the evo to buy the FD.

Actually, I added the cars I've owned because it appears you ask anyone who questions your judgment. I was retorting to the fact that you think the Ka motor is crap, and I asked for reasons why you say that. You can't provide any evidence, so I'm basically saying your an idiot, and not to spread bad info when you don't know what you're talking about. Refer to your own sig, fan-boy.

and FYI: the KA is an American motor. Only the US/Canada TRUCKS got it.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 18 2007, 12:17 AM

id like it if u would please stop calling me Kid

im 21 Y/o...far from being a mere child

just wanted to say that

and guys why feud jeenkies...its the internet, please lets put our cyber cocks back in the cages aite...

ill respect both opinions if we act like adults...otherwise please refrain from posting in this thread if this E-penis bull is going to continue

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 22 2007, 12:04 AM

Update...

thing was blown...or getting there...i was only firing on 2 from wut im told...

options

repair damaged KA for a bill or less...mechanic is a homie

buy a DOHC KA from a 95 240 for 3 bills...no tranny no ecu no harness...with z32 injectors and z32 MAF...new water and oil pump...downside....150 on motor...and i would have to wire up my SOHC harness for it to save cost...

wait another couple of weeks and get my friends 80K DOHC KA and tranny for free with ecu and Harness

problems with that is i dunno how long itll take for him to get his SR...and im suppose to start training for a job next week meaning i need wheels

as of now iv been driving my relatives cars who havent been here for the last week due to vacation lol
minivan FTW

Posted by: V0|t Jul 27 2007, 07:33 PM

I know the feeling of having ot drive family wheels, I had to drive a 98 Yukon with Mud tires. But honestly I think you should just get it rebulit for the cheapness since your low on dough, and down the road do what you need to do. I mean honestly I'm in nearly the same spot, but My car isnt dead/dying, Just costing Me a arm and a leg. you need to get done what you need, so go with the 150 rebulid and call it for it now till you got the money for something thats going to be relilable. I mean honestly you dont want to be stuck with a good job ( i'm guessing? ) and no wheels. and pedalling it sucks or hoofing it. Do what you can. and good luck

and Junon.. Stfu o_o IMHo nissan is teh suxor, its all bout Datsun

and Mazda o_0

Posted by: Sensation! Jul 27 2007, 08:34 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Jul 22 2007, 01:04 AM)

wait another couple of weeks and get my friends 80K DOHC KA and tranny for free with ecu and Harness

dude nothing beats things that are free

Posted by: V0|t Jul 27 2007, 09:01 PM

True I completely Agree, But as he said, He has to have wheels asap for a job and He doesnt know when He is going ot be be able to get the engine so yea better to be safe then sorry

Posted by: wangan_sti Jul 27 2007, 09:08 PM

QUOTE (NSX @ Today at 8:34 PM)

dude nothing beats things that are free

Then again they might be ripoff

Posted by: Sensation! Jul 27 2007, 09:13 PM

dude, free things cant be ripoffs, they're FREE

though they CAN (CAN!) be a pain in the ass

Posted by: V0|t Jul 27 2007, 09:23 PM

He says its a friend so more in likely it isnt, but still He says He doesnt know when His friends Sr is coming in so He cant get it. Might as well just spend the 150 and get it over with in the next two days and drop it in and bevery careful with it. baby it till you have the other motor and then BEAT THE f**k OUT OF IT WEEEEEE!!!!

Posted by: Shirogane Jul 27 2007, 09:40 PM

QUOTE (cpt jack @ Jul 16 2007, 11:50 PM)

Please refrain from flaming.

Anyways. I used to have a 240SX back then, good car.

Just sucks it isn't long lasting though.

Posted by: Kerxn Jul 27 2007, 09:43 PM

QUOTE (JZX100 @ Today at 12:40 AM)

Please refrain from flaming.

Anyways. I used to have a 240SX back then, good car.

Just sucks it isn't long lasting though.

It wasn't a flame. Flaming is directed towards other people. Please refrain from trying to be superior to other members.

Anyways, ask your homie the ETA for the SR20, and if you can wait, wait it out. If you can't then I'd get the 150 engine.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 28 2007, 10:35 AM

QUOTE (Kerxn @ Yesterday at 9:43 PM)

Anyways, ask your homie the ETA for the SR20, and if you can wait, wait it out. If you can't then I'd get the 150 engine.

well i talked to him yesterday and hes still waiting...simply put it doesnt matter wut happens now...its to late...iv been hired on at a job starting monday...i ddint get notice till today...weak...car is still dead...weak

i guess i have to stick with family wheels for now...

ill keep u guys updated

Posted by: V0|t Jul 28 2007, 03:33 PM

..well.. you can stick it with family wheels and chuck it to a F&F lover and build on something.. I dunno different o_o....

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 28 2007, 05:36 PM

why am i gonna chuck it for...ill probly get less then wut i got it for...and only be able ot get somehting worse to have the same thing happen again...nothanks... i dunn wanna take that kinda risk...

Posted by: Sensation! Jul 28 2007, 07:27 PM

pfft you can give it to me if it gives you anymore trouble

im a collector of junky 240s

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 29 2007, 12:11 PM

QUOTE (NSX @ Yesterday at 7:27 PM)

pfft you can give it to me if it gives you anymore trouble

im a collector of junky 240s

no prob lol

if i have enough by october i might just pick up a mugen SI

if not... the project shall continue

Posted by: V0|t Jul 30 2007, 05:46 PM

umm.. bulid a credit score? get a Personal loan or go get a uber loan and go get a Mugen Si ( it doesnt look all that fancy honestly IMHO ) or something I mean thats what I did. I pulled a Personal loan for My rx-7, got stupid and sold it and pulled a True Loan for 15k and bought a Hyundai Accent Hatch ( nice car imho ) I mean if your good and can make even with it and get something.. I dont know not of a civic status?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Jul 30 2007, 11:14 PM

well im bulding my credit first...i just wanna see the diff between me going in it solo and or co signer

but thats not even a main focus...

update

found a DOHC from a 96...dropping off tomorrow...only needs a valve cover...

aite well i got the engine today

user posted image

for 3 bills it wasnt half bad

especially after seeing a small surprise
user posted image

so far...pulled SOHC wireharness and ECU...took about an 3 hours or so...simp[ly becuase i kept retracing steps making sure i didnt leave anything hooked up and trying to manuver things around...still probly took to long but hey its my first swap

my main concern is how and i going to run my power steering pump...because on the SOHC its on the upper front right, while the dual is on the mid left...iv given up on the a/c...but i atleast wanna run P/S...

any one any suggestion...

Posted by: Dat Chau Aug 1 2007, 10:19 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Jul 31 2007, 03:14 AM)

Come on, nothing like a little man power can steer it for now. Not to mention a little more horsepower

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 1 2007, 10:53 PM

its wouldnt be a problem if i was the only one driving it...but my father drives it sometimes instead of his truck

hes got arthritis at the wrists

so he really cant handle it

Posted by: Sensation! Aug 1 2007, 11:44 PM

oh you lucky b*tch

so i guess that leaves me as the only member on IDWF with a malfunctioning 240 :|

if you got a 96 KA, find a old DOHC 240sx (s14 obviously, but im sure the DOHC s13 would work too, im not sure) and scrap the pump from one of those.

a little custom fabrication to bolt it on doesnt hurt either

EDIT: how much did you pay for the z32 calipers?
EDIT AGAIN: o wait, you didnt get them huh? well im gonna camp outside the junkyard until a Z32 comes by

Posted by: evo4life Aug 2 2007, 06:56 AM

You can relocate the P/S, check other forums for How-to's.

If its a 96, are you keeping it as OBDII for emissions?

Nice find

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 2 2007, 09:01 AM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 6:56 AM)

You can relocate the P/S, check other forums for How-to's.

If its a 96, are you keeping it as OBDII for emissions?

Nice find

nah emissions isnt somethins i care about...though i did just find out out i need a bunch of shit from a DOHC s13 to make this work...distributor...tach...wireharness

the thing though is this engine has 350 injectors,and the ecu has been flashed for it...so i cant change ecu...maybe just the harness??? any idea

iv checked nico and no one answers questions there

Posted by: evo4life Aug 2 2007, 10:04 AM

Why the hell would someone putbigger injectors on an NA setup? I don't think the gains would be worth it unless the motor was turboed.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 2 2007, 08:31 PM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 10:04 AM)

Why the hell would someone putbigger injectors on an NA setup? I don't think the gains would be worth it unless the motor was turboed.

i dont knoe either...but they didnt charge me for it having it so i dont really care lol

UPDATE of today

i wished i had my camera but it was sold so here are some after pics

NSX...evo4life...need any SOHC parts

minus tranny parts

engine pulled tranny and all
user posted image

so hollow

i wish i could have made a write up but simply put...follow wire harness from firewall to everywhere it spiders too and disconnect...

then just un hook anything say i believe slave cylinder...things like that

though we pulled it without A/C compressor...still debating wether to use it or not...

anyone knoe if i can hook up my s13 A/C lines and compressor to the s14 system

nerw problem...

headers...anyone know if the headers of a s13 DOHC ka will fit the s14 KA?!
and do i need everything from the header to the cat huh???

so yeah the engine is out anyone need parts...cuz i deff need cash after all this lol

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 7 2007, 06:58 PM

dont knoe if anyone cares

but the DOHC is finally in the car

tranny mounted wihtout a prob to the engine...

the biggest hurttle was mounting the engine back on its mounts...we didnt have a engine leveler to help the process

but finally got it on its mounts

now all i need is valve cover distributer and harness ( right harness)

just figured out i can use my s14 harnes due to some plugs
so i need to modify it a bit

Posted by: Bunny Aug 11 2007, 12:26 AM

good luck with the rest of your project man. the progress looks awesome

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 12 2007, 10:26 PM

thanks...ill try to take some pics of the car ASAP

Posted by: Dat Chau Aug 13 2007, 12:21 AM

Yeah man, don't give up on the 240SX. Too much work and effort to get it going to turn back. I know how it feels as I am almost in the same situation.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 13 2007, 10:50 AM

incase anyone in the forum needs the info

parts needed to go dohc from sohc

doesn't matter if ur going from an s13 dohc or s14 dohc the parts needed are the same from s13 dohc

s13 dohc ign distributer
s13 dohc p/s metal line and reservoir with hoses
s13 dohc maf
s13 ign coil
s13 engine harness

if ur going with s14 ka...ull require 2 extra pieces being s13 dohc headers and egr pipe or assembly

as far as the egr goes I just plugged it with nickles on both ends andtightend the pipe back on

wut else...

ohh if ur going dohc from s14 the s13 harness should plug into ur s14 ecu

as far as interior goes u can change cluster to s13 dohc cluster (red line starts later then sohc cluster) I'm goin to try to just use the pig tails from a dohc cluster and solder them together with my interior harness

if not my sohc cluster can still work just no rpms will be red

another thing ka trannys are interchangable...rite now I'm going sohc tranny with s14 dohc engine...one thing though u will throw a cell for a crank angle sensor...which the obd tranny didn't come with

ill post anything else I remember later

user posted image

Posted by: mark240sx Aug 14 2007, 08:20 PM

YOU HAVE TO PUT A NICE ORIGIN BODYKIT ON THT CAR...THTS THE BEST BODY KIT EVER FOR A 240SX...TAKE THT PAINT OFF RIGHT AWAY AND PAINT IT DARK CANDY APPLE RED AND ADD T BLACK OR CARBON FIBER HOOD AND UR SET THT CAR WILL BE LOOKIN HOT!

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Aug 14 2007, 09:47 PM

QUOTE (mark240sx @ Today at 9:20 PM)

CAPS LOCK IS CRUISE CONTROL FOR COOL!!

Seriously stop spamming.

Dalaz: Keep up the good work. Cant wait for your 240sx to be up and running again XD

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 14 2007, 10:10 PM

thank you for the support guys preciate it

the only reason this is ongoing is finding parts
which iv found all and there in the mail

coming tomorrow

s13 dohc cluster (doesnt need it persay but i want things to work rite the first time)
s13 dohc ecu
S14 valve cover

p/s line and resorvoir mounted and s13 dohc dizzy aswell

im looking at thursday as possible start date god willing

mark240sx : f body kit bud, sorry im not into that, maybe silvia conversion ( found all parts for 300)
kouki tails
and new driver seat since mine is to the metal and its killing my back during spirited driving

if not silvia conversion then 180sx conversion, bumper and kouki tails basically
if found for good price then maybe the rear side windows that read 180sx for a final touch

paint i dont care to much about im waiting for a friend to hit me back up for a good price on a nice midnight blue color

but will see
first things first this car need to be back on the road, f everything else for now

Posted by: zer0c123 Aug 16 2007, 04:33 PM

If that is an actual pic of you engine, you should remove that timing chain guide while the valve cover is off right now. While your at it you should probably take of the lower one as well. Wish I saw this thread earlier before you put the engine in, because that would have been a great opportunity for new motor mounts even though you said your broke.

Posted by: MîGüÊl Aug 16 2007, 06:15 PM

QUOTE (mark240sx @ Aug 14 2007, 08:20 PM)

i have to teach marcus to stop spamming and to KEEP HIS CAPS LOCK OFF

, and most importantly to read the forum rules, and as for Dalaz, good luck man i could see this becoming a nice clean 240.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 16 2007, 07:16 PM

zer0c123: timing chain and guides are new.....injectors and hoses aswell

asfar as mounts...silicone filled lol

thanks MÃ®GÃ¼ÃŠl

ill try my best

valve cover is coming in tommorow... final piece of puzzle harness in stalled ignition coil p/s assembly distributer aswelll

also bought dohc cluster which is in

Posted by: zer0c123 Aug 17 2007, 12:35 PM

Get rid of the guide. It's not needed, so save yourself some headaches in the future

Posted by: evo4life Aug 17 2007, 01:15 PM

Its coming along real good. Keep it up.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 17 2007, 03:59 PM

QUOTE (zer0c123 @ Today at 12:35 PM)

Get rid of the guide. It's not needed, so save yourself some headaches in the future

im not even gonna respond to that comment above urs evo4life

thanks guys im just waiting for the mil...literally lol

Posted by: zer0c123 Aug 18 2007, 02:29 PM

What? But then again I've seen you on the nico forums so I guess you know about the guides.

Posted by: Kerxn Aug 18 2007, 06:12 PM

It's not a guide, it's a progress thread. He's not doing this for reference, Dalaz is doing this to keep us and himself entertained, in which we can comment and offer opinions and advice. Sometimes people in the big forums are just a-holes and just say, "YOU NOOB YOU CANT DO DIS TO SAVE UR LAIF. lolololololololol."

Posted by: Möbius Aug 18 2007, 06:37 PM

QUOTE (Kerxn @ Today at 10:12 PM)

Yeah, it's not a guide, it's just for us to watch. Not a bad thread, I check it out from time to time myself.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 19 2007, 12:45 AM

e-cookie to mister Kerxn and apex carver

if i wanted ot make a guide i wouldnt post it here, since only wut 10 maybe people in this whole forums would and might benifit from it if that...and since this is a DOHC ka swap its would most likely be ignored by then aswell since there 99.9 % all SR20 tyte

except for Evo4life

and as Kerxn has pointed out iv been PM'ed almost a hundred in total messages about me being to noob to do htis and other comments...but ill persavier

iv only found a very few, not even a hand full of people who have giving me tips and help and parts for sheap to help oput the progress...

only hting i do need is my valve cover but its gonna be here thrusday...im 2 impatient to wait so im heading to the nissan auto used yard and get the one i reserved for pickup tomorrow

problem: power steering lines came from a DOHC KA from s13, though one of the bends is different hence not hookin into properly to my rack and pinion

im thinking solution would be to just run the line from my SOHC since its the line not connected to the under loop across the cross member but the length is gonna be a problem

but since its not something i need to get the car running is not a big big issue just an annoyance that sit not plug in and go situation hence....WEAK

got the DOHC cluster in and soldered the old pig tail from my SOHC harness to the DOHC to plug easy into the female pigtail for the cluster

cant beat a 2.99 solder machine at FRY's lol

so basically ill recap once again

cluster in
throttle cable ( from dohc ) in
engine and tranny in
distributer in
engine harness passed through firewall
harness modified for DOHC cluster in

things to do tomorrow (with hopefully no complications)

plug harness down
install valve cover
install radiator and lines
fan shroud
intakeecu hook up
ohh sh!t forgot to bolt headers to exaust lol lol
oil
coolant

wish me luck cuz with this heat and my fat ass ima need it

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 19 2007, 01:36 AM

nice remove that chain guide bro.. here is a write up i did

http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39576

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 19 2007, 08:11 AM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 1:36 AM)

nice remove that chain guide bro.. here is a write up i did

http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39576

nah maybe later or something

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 19 2007, 08:57 AM

ok.... well if they snap off on you and blow the motor bro.. it would suck... when a motor sits for a while and then those guides are heated up they become very brittle. i have watched it happen so many time..

it takes about 30 min of your time.

years ago it was a recall by nissan... im on motor number 5, but its not due to the chain guides lol its dude to long hours of road racing... and a couple were just freak accidents.

good stuff though bro.. cool your staying with the KA.. it packs a mighty punch on the turbo side.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 19 2007, 01:05 PM

yeah im just running into problems with my harness

kant figure out the connections t the tps ( ithink) on the harness

im soo tired

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 19 2007, 02:03 PM

let me know bro take pictures and show me.. im a KA guru.... you should not have to wire anything for the TPS... im was to an SOHC guy for the first year and have had 4 dohc sense lol

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 19 2007, 04:36 PM

well damn guru to bad u dont live near me i need help bad

ok basically the problem is i ran the DOHC harness of an s13 (like recomended by all forums) on the s14 dohc

the TPS has 2 plug stations my thought is one is for cruise control which i dont run or have and the other for the actuall throttle

also trying to figure out which wire or connection goes to the starter i have the original one from my sohc and the one that came with the DOHC s14 engine

ill post some pics fopr u asap on PM i need help

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 19 2007, 05:17 PM

AHHh ha... all you need to do is swap the Throttle body.. thats right.. i was not thinking.. the Dohc s14 OBDII TPS has and extra sensor.. all you need is an allen key to swap it. and while you are at it just order a TB gasket sometimes they break.

I may actually have a s13 dohc TB laying around if so i could ship it to you for a small fee..

i hope you didn't cut anything.. the only wiring that you are suppose to do is the 15 or so body harness wires that are the indicators in you gauge cluster and rpm signal.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 19 2007, 06:52 PM

bah i havent cut anything luckuly
i was avbout to take cutters to the s14 harness

damn anychance u can take a pix of the connections to ur starter and alternator

im afraid i might cross a wire and blow something

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 19 2007, 06:55 PM

you have to use an obdI s13 harness bro.. also you must swap the s13 altenator onto the motor and use the s13 lower harness.

ill see if i have some pictures on file...

but for the starter the lower harness has one power connection that uses at 12mm bolt and a rather larger o ring connection and and a starter signal clip that plugs right into a blue cable on the starter. for the alternator you have one ground ( 10mm bolt) and 12mm power connection o ring also

you really cant mess them up. they cant stretch but so far.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 19 2007, 07:00 PM

well i am running the s13 DOHC engine harness

i have to run the dohc lower harness 2

wtf

i visited like 3 forums not one mentioned the lower harness

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 19 2007, 07:02 PM

Nope i never ever changed mine and you don't have to..

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 20 2007, 07:19 PM

sweet

good to knoe about that i was shitting brinks a second ago

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 21 2007, 10:14 AM

man im sorry.. upon closer inspection.. my s13 TB has a big crack in it... and one of the TB bolts is striped... check you local forums for a part out bro

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 21 2007, 04:42 PM

its kew i got it no prob thanks for looking out... also i snaged the starter cable for my shit cuz mine is torn... so jyea

i wanna say this b4 anything

anyone wanting to do a KA dohc swap...i say stick to the s13 dohc... since u have to change so many freakin parts on the s14 dohc from the s13 dohc u might aswell get the whole block

just mpo from experience lol

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 21 2007, 06:40 PM

Well in order to put a Dohc in you have to totally change everything anyway in regards to the dizzy, upper harness, body harness, coil etc

but yea like he said... getting a s13 motor will make your time shorter.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 21 2007, 08:11 PM

if only i could have taken my own advice lol

shoot me

so heres the situation

im down to the last stretch ( believe it or not)

things installed:
harness
TB with proper tps
dizzy
headers ( to mesh wiht sohc exaust flange)
ign coil
ecu
MAF

problem

the freakin mechanism that attaches to the actual stick shift is locked or something....doesnt want to move at all....

i dont knoe how but i crossed a wire...i tried hooking up the battery to the car and red is + and black - rite!? cuz i did that and spark...i asked biggamehit if i fudged up somehow but he responded that it was normal to see a spark wen u attach it...well i tired again this time now i need to get ign coil fuse

, idunno im thinking i f**ked up with something maybe a ground not properly placed....

any ideas on that people

those are my last true problems......

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 22 2007, 02:40 PM

dude! MAKE SURE YOU BATTERY IS THE RIGHT WAY.

i have seen this happen befor. and you could blow everything..

since the begging of time bro.. if you hook a Negative battery terminal up you will see a small spark on the terminal it self.. thats healthy.. now if you are seeing sparks somewhere else, you have a issue.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 22 2007, 05:23 PM

battery is the rite way since the cbles cant stretch out

ill try again tonite
new fuse obtained

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 22 2007, 05:41 PM

yea bro but the terminals are not in the same position on all batteries .

check your wiring bro.. something seems to be crossed. it ones of those things that has to be seen to be corrected if its wrong

Posted by: Möbius Aug 22 2007, 06:51 PM

Yup , a small spark on batt is ok, but not anywhere else. Verify proper connection for sure.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 23 2007, 09:13 AM

yeah I found out someone pulled the ground to the coil....after a quick smack down it was replugged....

hey bigg... u knoe how I told u there is a wire that looks to go from firewall to starter...seems I'm rite...previous owner fudge around with the lower harness and did a piss poor job for the starter...ill post a pic after work for some verification from u gentleman later...

I went to junk yard luckully and found a singlecam with lower harness atached and found the starter wire which is black with yellow strips? well I snaged as much wire from it with connections...ima try and find the wire witth the mess of lower harness...if anything ill have to buy lower harness for 50 from local yard... but like I said ill just post a pic

question to anyone who can answer : so the injectors are 300z injectors...the ecu that came with the S14 engine was flashed for the larger injectors...anyone know how I can/could/were to go/were I could go to flash dohc s13 ecu to run properly??? so far I figure the only problems will be detonation, timing possibly, and gas consumption

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 23 2007, 05:23 PM

na bro the thick black cable with yellow strip bolts onto the intake manifold to the left of the throttle body and connects to the negative terminal... i seems that many starters done have the same color wire becuase some of them are remans...

are you saying that the motor has 370cc injectors?.. if so you need to get a safc and or take those injectors out and put stock 270cc back in.. i have some already in a rail for cheap.

no one will flash a ecu just for low level 370cc injectors.

Posted by: Möbius Aug 23 2007, 05:33 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 9:23 PM)

I would listen to this man, just go back to stock injectors for now.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 23 2007, 06:39 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 5:23 PM)

well i have a rail from a s13 dohc with injectors ready to go here already as in this pic
user posted image

...but i cant dislog the lil sensor off of the s14 rail seen here user posted image

...the screws are to F-ucked to uncrew off and there not bolts so wrench or socket is pointless

unless u have that small sensor ill take that for sure ill even drop payment tonite unless i cant use the s13 dohc rail??? which i doubt since the engine harness is built for it, but then again the s14 head is bigger than the s13 dohc so i need some clarification on that....

hint : as u obviously can tell im partly clueless but learning as i go along so bare with me lol

picture time for biggamehit

these 2 connections are on the left front corner, one coming from the filter box for intake and the other, from the assembly that connects to metalic pipe that leads into header assembly
user posted image

here we see three connection ( one in my hand and the other 2 on the v cover)
user posted image

closer view of those 2 connection in the back opf previous pic

user posted image

connections to the back of alternator
user posted image

is the TPS connected properly... because i cant seem to find another conection for the plug on the actual TB, either that or the harness i bought is cut somehow and im to stupid to realiz it....
user posted image

now for the big winner this should be fun for all ages

so biggamehit member i mention the whole fire wall dealy with my car...

so heres the piss poor job of electrical tape that is coming from the lower harness
the black wire with orange tip is the wire from the starter
user posted image

notice in this pic ^^^ the yellow wire rising form the lower harness heading towards the firewall

the green one comes from the firewall while seeming to intertwine with a blue wire
user posted image

and only the green tip emerges from the electrical tape and has a perfect connection for the starter as u can see in the previous pix from the last

so wut ur opinion on this... try to wire this up, even though it doesnt have the proper color wire...

or just bite the bullet pay 50 for a lower harness from another 1990 240sx???

or is there a better lower harness to work with, im thinking 91 - 94 ??? maybe, aslong as it connects to my fuse box no prob ill do that

long post wouldnt u say lol

any help greatly appreciate it

please help my baby live once again

BTW: the starter being used came with the s14 engine hence not the original starter from the sohc, but wait before u ask...steve have u tried connecting that green wire to the starter connection, the answer to that is yes, and it fits without problem into the connection...

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 24 2007, 09:27 AM

this is not a sensor thats a fuel pressure regulator.. to take those off you need a impact screw driver some times.. once you have the fuel rail off, you can actually get a small pair of vise grips on the head of the screws and get them off.

----

user posted image

in the circle is you O2 sensor connection the X is a part of emissions on the back of the motor that doesn't matter but you can plug them up

-----

user posted image

this plug is the ground for your coil plugs right on on the left side of the coil
the x is emissions stuff for that lil black box to the left of the coil not important

-----

user posted image

that is in the wrong place.. should be connected to the intake manifold in this spot..

also in that picture i notice something else.. , you are running a s14 manifold becuase you have that blue temp sensor switch. you will need to take that out and install a s13 temp switch ....also from the beginning bro you should have gotten a complete s13 dohc intake manifold that would have solved your issues.. the problem is you have to have knowledge to deal with a s14 manifold as to what to strip off of it or not. but just get that s13 TB on there and you are good. the other bs is just newer obdII crap that will not stop you from starting the car, however your idle may be screwed up
user posted image

-----

wrong TB bro.. ill get picture of correct dohc TB.. it just has a Throttle positioning sensor with one plug coming from it.

-----

user posted image

seems that he ran a switch to his starter so that he could cut it on and off as a theft feature.. that green wire must go to the starter. also check inside your car for that wire and if it goes back to a on and off switch im right lol.

take care of that stuff and come back with more pix bro..

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 24 2007, 04:12 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 9:27 AM)

in the circle is you O2 sensor connection the X is a part of emissions on the back of the motor that doesn't matter but you can plug them up

-----

user posted image

this plug is the ground for your coil plugs right on on the left side of the coil
the x is emissions stuff for that lil black box to the left of the coil not important

-----

user posted image

-----

wrong TB bro.. ill get picture of correct dohc TB.. it just has a Throttle positioning sensor with one plug coming from it.

-----

user posted image

2 quick questions

fuel rail...will the s13 dohc fuel rail i have fit the s14 engine?

and

throttle body...so ur telling me thats the wrong one once again....f-ucken junk yard waisting my time....wish i could have gone there and pulled it myself...

let me ask wut year s13 do i need to get the tb and sensor from and can it come from an automatic...i can go to yard tomorrow and exange

ill correct the alternator wire and....get the temp gauge sensors....

-------------------------------

yeah i agree i rushed into this b4 i sat down and read everyhting...but i guess i just f up thanks for the help and ill post new pics tonite

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 24 2007, 04:45 PM

91-94 dohc s13 TB and temp sensor

yes s13 rail will fit s14 manifold.

more pix from my setup

starter should be hooked up like so.. the last owner rigged something up like a switch like i said earlier.. he also broke the connection off it should look like this.. also the cable is indeed blk/yel

user posted image

that one thick cable you have going to your Altenator should be going to your Intake manifold

user posted image

cables for alternator are all in the same general location.. this should help you.. the one cable on the left side of the alternator is a ground and should be about 16 gauge. the one you have connected on the right side is your power. leave that one alone.

user posted image

this is was a s13 TB TPS looks like one single cable.

user posted image

Posted by: Möbius Aug 24 2007, 04:58 PM

This is one of my fave threads, lots of wrenching in here.

Keep it up, guys!

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 24 2007, 05:14 PM

alrity well last unanswered is does it matter if the TB comes from auto

b4 i get flamed i ask because i knoe that the engine harness for dohc s13 is diff...hence there might be more plugs.... atleast i think anyway

ok so junkyard tomorrow

things i stillll need

RITE tb and sensor on it
temp gauge from s13dohc
and there is also a connection to the left of oil filter which im guessing oil temp sensor?!!? get that aswell???i knoe that the sohc connection wont plug into it so....

rite now the tranny is a big concern... as i mentioned to yah biggamehit... the shift linkage is just stuck....im guessing 2 things the 2 bolts to the sides of it that actually go through a groove below the linkage is jamed somehow...throwout bearing isnt in properly...

or tranny suffered massive damage the night the safty pin broke of the enhine hoist...

so my next question would be should i stick to buyin another sohc tranny... or go for s13 dohc tranny...since im assuming that the s13 tranny wont need a lower harness swap...

any suggestion good sir

**slaps on work glows**

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 24 2007, 06:55 PM

na it has to be from a Manual, i just looked it up. however in some states they are differnt. just make sure the TB only have one connection if so its good.

you can use ANY TRANNY FROM ANY YEAR... only thing you have to watch out for with the obdII tranny is the Crank angle sensor. dude honestly the only thing that matter on the lower harness as far as the tranny is concerned is the speed and reverse lights. but just to make your life easier get a tranny from a 89 to 94.5 bro.

ALL s13 and s14 use the same oil pressure switch/connection

if you dropped the tranny and engine with it not connected all the way you could have actually bent the fork

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 24 2007, 07:46 PM

tranny and engine were bolted from top 3-4 bolts only...so im guessing that could be it...if anyting ill finish up everything else and get the damn thing towed to swap out the tranny...im not gonna go through that agin...ever lol

aite so manual it has to manual

and illget botht he sensor and the tb together so no confusions

so i decided to do the simplest thing on the tranny prob first...

i removed the 2 large horizontal bolts on the gear box housing... seen here
user posted image

once bolts-springs, and pins were removed, i returned the slave cylinder back to position and tried moving the shift linkage and voila it moves in to the gears and is movable by fingure

so im guessing my problem has to do with the pins somehow...specially after noticing the dado (sorry wood shop terminology) or groove along both pins seen here
user posted image

the groove begins from the stop to the tip of the pin...

is there a certain position this groove plays a part to the shift linkage....?

or did i just tighten the to bolts too tight ???

as for the the thick wire u spoke of on the alternator...i do have the thick wire on the manifold...
user posted image

those 2 wires are different...ill take better pic tomorrow

apex carver: thanks for the compliment it makes a fool like me feel like im finally contributing to the forums lololololololol
honestly though if this helps anyone im happy to go through it...

BTW got a present from someone earlier in the week
wut u guys think
user posted image

Update---

proper temp gauge installed
user posted image

coil wire grounded
user posted image

RITE (finally) TB and sensor installed

user posted image

and quick question

user posted image

its raining outside and basically put me to a halt...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 27 2007, 09:53 PM

so after a long long night....i put everything in its place....

get in the car...turn the key hopping to hear the engine come to life

i i get is silence

battery loss charge

so i gotta wait till tomorrow for autozone to open

Posted by: Sensation! Aug 27 2007, 10:18 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 10:53 PM)

battery loss charge

YOU TOO!?
wow this is a coincidence

PS can you tell me the correct type of battery the 240sx uses?
my car has the wrong battery in it

and it doesnt come with a manual

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 28 2007, 05:27 AM

just ask the guy at the front for batteries for you year car.... he will give you numbers

cool dalaz you go it running.... yea dude i was out for a bit... but you figured it out.. thats what its all about

also make sure you didn't blow out you 75amp alternator fuse.. if you did you will not build a charge at all.. also make sure you have the proper tension on the betls or that will cause you to no charge as well.

that ground you have going on is not cool.. you must strip the paint away and use a bolt and screw and also right to the left side of the coil there is a place to plug that.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 28 2007, 06:33 AM

well i got the car to light up be4 battery died basically so no vroom vroom yet

as far as that ground i knoe i need better location, withtout the slack from the alternator cable i couldnt get to the Manifold, i was thinking of running a wire from that cable to the manifold, but i dont knoe the cable gauge for it
any idea biggamehit?

as far as the lil tab for the ground on the coil, i have the tab just not the screw and nut to bolt it to the coil assembly

if i get size and length of said bolt ill mount it properly, as far as the other ground, im thinking of going to go get an un damaged wire harness just so everything hooks up were it needs to be...also found a tranny for a bill so incase mine is damaged i have replacement for it

the alternator fuse thank goodness is undamaged, i blew 2 trying to figure out wtf the problem was untill i saw and fixed it... but as for now all fuses and those below on the left kick panel are undamaged

also bought some spark plugs incase i need em, might just slap em on so i run new with new oil...im so tired i got to work at like 5 a.m. didnt knock out till 12 ish cleaning up....

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Aug 28 2007, 10:55 AM

So this means you are now at the finish line Dalaz? If so, post pics when the beast is absolutely complete XD

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 28 2007, 01:07 PM

i dunno about beast...lol

but ill take pics of the final results once it actually runs

heres a pic of things done and done without the hood, hopefully itll work tonite
user posted image

BTW i picked this up the other day

dont let the words fool u its just an s13 Vlsd

picked it up from a guy on sunday

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Aug 28 2007, 04:39 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 2:07 PM)

i dunno about beast...lol

but ill take pics of the final results once it actually runs

heres a pic of things done and done without the hood, hopefully itll work tonite
user posted image

BTW i picked this up the other day

dont let the words fool u its just an s13 Vlsd

picked it up from a guy on sunday

I can see that Blue really wants to drive the 240sx -points to blue in first pic-

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 28 2007, 05:58 PM

its been waiting and waiting

update...

blew the last 75A fuse i had

i guess my grounding point sucked

have to wait till tomorrow to pick up new fuse and ima buy the lower harness cuz this is just BS

also the fuel pump is not working cuz i dont here the f**king thing pumping...

i got the battery and i here the starter do its click.... but nothing else...anyone???

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 28 2007, 07:19 PM

did you ground out the injectors?? they is a oring coming from the wiring by the injectors, that much be grounded to the block. and once again bro you are blowing the fuse becuase something in that harness is hooked up wrong... do you have a factory service manual... you need to look at it to trace your steps, its the only sure way.. i honestly recommend getting a new lower harness and when you are taking in off. look at all the points. something is crossed.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 28 2007, 09:06 PM

well thats the reason im getting the new harness since this one is to jacked up

i rather have something clean to work with

and since i have 100 cred at that yard for parts i brought em i might aswell get the s13 p/s pump and alternator... im just wondering if theyll bolt rite on???

but yeah the ground coming out of the injectors is tightly secured on the block...
u can see it in the pic i posted

im get the harness from the yard i found and ask the guy to let me look at a 240 aswell so i can just double check it all

thanks mang uve been a reall big help during all this BS

i got a new battery aswell since mine turned out to be to low on charge it was fee so i dont care

Posted by: backalleyracer Aug 28 2007, 10:05 PM

yea basically if you are blowing a fuse, something is shorted, getting a new harness could be good but maybe i just love eletrical enough to fix my own problems with harness's lol

Posted by: zer0c123 Aug 29 2007, 12:42 AM

QUOTE (Kerxn @ Aug 18 2007, 06:12 PM)

ummm i don't think we are talking about the same thing here. The guide i was referring to is the timing chain guide. aka the POS piece of plastic/metal on top the engine and side of the chain.

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 29 2007, 02:21 AM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ Yesterday at 10:05 PM)

yea basically if you are blowing a fuse, something is shorted, getting a new harness could be good but maybe i just love eletrical enough to fix my own problems with harness's lol

yeaup im the same way.. but some people fear the wire lol

also bro... make sure your fuel pump fuse is not blown.. when you turn the key to the acc position before cranking what you are hearing is the pump priming... thats not th injectors..

injectors them selves makes a clicking sound which happens VERY fast at the same time as the prime and you cant hear it .one way to test that is.. unbolt the distributer, mark the position, and rotate it slowly back and forth, this will trigger the crank angle sensor ( CAS ) and you will here them click.

UHM also i gotta ask you bro.. did you do TDC becuase you CANT just slap the distributer in the car and start it

use this to assist you... basically you will be hand cranking the engine to set cly number 1 at Top Dead Center ( TDC ) and then you will align the rotor button on cly number one and start it up... if its not in alignment. you will not get a spark at the right time

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=161707

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 29 2007, 06:41 AM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 2:21 AM)

well if i could read a wire diagram better i wouldnt mind just fixing wut i have...but since im not i rather not risk it

as far as the fuel pump i dont hear it priming and i cant locate which fuse it might me, ive checked the fuses and they seem ok but ill give it another look...

i didnt do TDC...

so wut ur sayin is crank the main lower pully by hand...how am i gonna knoe when the cyl is at TDC will i feel it or something....

QUOTE

you will align the rotor button on cly number one and start it up

i am so sending u cookies after this biggamehit

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Aug 29 2007, 09:56 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 7:41 AM)

i am so sending u cookies after this biggamehit

Theres a trick to that. Remove the Spark Plug Wire and the Spark Plug itself from the first cylinder.

Get a long screwdriver or a long flathead and insert it into the hole where the spark plug goes, you should feel the end of the flathead hitting the piston head.

Now, start cranking the crankshaft and keep an eye on your screwdriver, you'll see that the piston is pushing the flathead up or it goes down. Once you see that the flathead goes as high as it can before it starts going down, you'll know your at TDC.

Posted by: Inygknok Aug 29 2007, 09:59 AM

QUOTE (Ayako Watanabe @ Today at 12:56 PM)

Don't the dampers on these engines also have the markings? Damn sure there's a mark for TDC on one of the bottom covers and the damper.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 29 2007, 10:14 AM

wut cover?

i get wat Ayako Watanabe said sound simple enough...

i thought i was ognna have to Tak (Takumi) of the freakin valve cover again...lol

aite so basically now i needa buy a socket for the bolt on that pully

ok so basically remove the spark plug to align to TDC
do i have to remove the distributer...

QUOTE

then you will align the rotor button on cly number one and start it up

wut did u mean by this biggamehit??

to much mechanic jagger lol im NOOB to this..lol

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 29 2007, 10:14 AM

yes sir you can use the screwdriver method if you have bad eyes and or dont wanna bend over and clean the dirt off the crank lol

but as mentrioned above, the pully has these lil notices on it... gosh nissan is so smart lol.. just line the TDC point up with the pin bro.

also yes you will remove the two 10mm dizzy bolts pull the dizzy halfway out and set the cly to TDC. and then with a phillips you will remove the dizzy cap and rotate the rotor button like you see in the picture on the link bro

user posted image

hahaha

excuse my JArgon

TDC= Top dead center

Cas=Crank angle sensor

dizzy= Distributer

cly=cylinder

lol=laugh out loud

just make checks payable to biggamehit or else ill visit you with my friends

user posted image

Posted by: Inygknok Aug 29 2007, 10:17 AM

See, I knew I had seen those notches the one time I worked with one of those engines. The grand majority of engines today have them, as well notches for the cam gears.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 29 2007, 10:30 AM

u gentlemen are the wind beneath my wings...

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 29 2007, 10:35 AM

hahahaha well i have been doing it for about 8 years now lol... second nature.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 29 2007, 11:56 AM

sweet

aite, i was tryin to get the harness yesterday but got locked in traffic...weakness....so hopefully i can do it today

shhh im leaving early lol

but yeah ima try to get to it today asap...

need

harness
fuse

god willing i have enough time today

so let me recap...

on the main pulley is were ill locate the TDC marks and next to it the pin for TDC?
then i pull out the dizzy (halfway)
and remove the cap? the cap im assuming is the cap that has the sparkplug wires connected to it?

edit: ohh ok i get wut u meant by link lol missed it asecond ago

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Aug 29 2007, 01:14 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 11:14 AM)

just make checks payable to biggamehit or else ill visit you with my friends

user posted image

This pic owns on so many levels

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 29 2007, 01:26 PM

LOL

i hadnt seen it !!!

sh!ts tight lol

aite im leaving work rite now and god willing ima get to that yard in an hour or so...

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 29 2007, 04:52 PM

this link bro..

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=161707

Posted by: HorizontalMitsubishi Aug 29 2007, 05:50 PM

i think he might have his altenator wire hooked up wrong. which could be your dead short to ground. which is blowing that 75 amp fuse. try unhooking the altenator and see if it pops the fuse.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 29 2007, 07:49 PM

i took it a step further and bought the s13 dohc alternator and the harness...and got the lil screw and slit assembly for the ground to the coil

im dead tired so hopefully tomorrow i can do it

forgot to mention also got the p/s pump

no blowing up for me lol

the one thing i did forget was a f**ken fuse lol

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 30 2007, 06:13 AM

QUOTE (But she looked 18 officer @ Jun 12 2007, 01:16 AM)

hopefully floh will come out of hiding a little more advice.

Oh ho, but I have. And I also had a talk with the man upstairs about your car, and he told me to shut up and turn my music down. He also told me he's busy assisting the 10,000 other Nissan fanatics that ran out and purchased a S13 after they saw their first D1 event so that they can get their car running, get sideways and send more souls his way. He's also extremely pissed Nick Hogan didnt die, so he's going to make sure he recieves a heavy dose of SIDS tonight (its not just for infants anymore).

Eh, folks know how to PM, drop a line if you get snagged on a problem, but I'm not going to read through five zillion pages packed with stuff you've probably already fixed. Also, angry looking A1C's packing dual cam's like Leonardo, great stuff. Send more pics, next time grab some sparkplug wires and spin them around like Nunchucks.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 30 2007, 06:35 AM

QUOTE (flohtingPoint @ Today at 6:13 AM)

Iv actually havent seen an s13 at any drift event lol

s15 maybe but thats about it

frankly i remember ur post about ur traveling and i didnt think u would have time so i just didnt wanna be a bother

, otherwise ur PM would have been jammed

mind you the 10,000 u speak of go straight Sr wihtout tryin to see wut a properly set up KA can do...though im nto sayin mine in particular is set up for POWAH, im just sayin im not gonna follow the herd so easily

im one of the few that likes to think outside the box, but my knowledge of cars is still limited... but i have tried my best to read up on wut i can

and if i can afford it later down the road i mite try to turbo this KA...

as far as the ''going sideways'' deal, im leaning a lot more towards grip driving on tracks, im signing up for the next event next month

i just need tires and a helmet thatll fit my fat head

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 30 2007, 06:53 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 6:35 AM)

Iv actually havent seen an s13 at any drift event lol

s15 maybe but thats about it

frankly i remember ur post about ur traveling and i didnt think u would have time so i just didnt wanna be a bother

, otherwise ur PM would have been jammed

Ah ha, placating to my love of track driving, flattery will get you everywhere. I'm grabbing my tools (which consist of ratchets and the 14 year old losers from this forum who ask how to buy a skyline) and comming over right now. We'll get this puppy on the road by fixing your al- eh- whatsists- I have no idea whats wrong due to lack of info, but whatever it is, I'm sure this NISMO license plate frame will fix it.

But yea, drop a pm, even if I'm traveling/deploying/avoiding/or out actually enjoying life instead of sitting on a forum racking up 10,000 posts (no, this isnt jealousy talking, I dont envy the fact that most folks have 3x my posts and have been here a year less, ok FU I'm jealous, happy now), I still check my PM's every once in a while. So fear not, drop a line if you got a prob, I'll see what I can do, or I'll ignore your PM and delete it and claim ignorance when you approach me about it, thus making you feel like its all your fault and you're guilty.

In other news, your one thread has more posts than all of my threads combined I've ever made. I hate every single one of you. Thats it, I'm just going to start asking dumb questions (not that your questions in particular are dumb, because I havent read them, and anyway there are no dumb questions, only dumb people, wait, is that how it goes???) in all of my threads because thats what it takes to get a response. Next time I'm working on something, I'll just cut my coilpacks and then add a post like "All I did was change the oil yo, now it doesnt startz!!111???"

Posted by: But she looked 18 officer Aug 30 2007, 07:02 AM

Looks like happy hour started a little early for floh.

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 30 2007, 07:06 AM

QUOTE (But she looked 18 officer @ Today at 7:02 AM)

Looks like happy hour started a little early for floh.

Ah yes, I am on the interweb!

No, just outlandishly bored at work. That and I got sand in my vagina because Amazon still hasnt processed my order for my Fallout 1 and 2 double disc set.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 30 2007, 07:37 AM

QUOTE (flohtingPoint @ Today at 6:53 AM)

lol
ur post are making my boring day at work more enjoyable...i stick to the track i dont want a nick hogan situation

( i just had to)

though ill take that license plate from ya

(though the only nismo item i have in my car is a shift knob given to me lol)

as far is situation goes all items needed for the build are on the car/engine

its just i bought another lower harness due to mine be hacked up and my lack of wire knoledge, i just didnt want to deal with it...so i sadly took the easy route, please dont chun me out of ur life

though if u could find me a CA for later in the future, i wouldnt mind lol...

but basically tonite i am going to remove my lower harness and replace with bought one... and ground that sh!t finally

i did manage to set it up for TDC with the flathead technique thanks again i believe Ayako Watanabe or Biggamehit... just gotta mess with the dizzy and set it upaswell

hopefully itll all go smoothly

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 30 2007, 11:30 AM

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 30 2007, 11:37 AM

lol and im wearing Red today...jeenkies lol

thanks i appreciate the support on all this

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 30 2007, 03:30 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 11:37 AM)

lol and im wearing Red today...jeenkies lol

thanks i appreciate the support on all this

Here is some more support, attempt has three t's in it.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 30 2007, 03:51 PM

im slightly dyslectic,

i sometimes miss my own boo boo's

Posted by: Inygknok Aug 30 2007, 04:45 PM

Btw dalaz, did you check the damper (engine dampener, underdrive pulley, crank pulley, the big one right in the middle at the bottom of the block) for the markings? biggamehit provided a picture of what you should be looking for.

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 30 2007, 06:24 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 3:51 PM)

im slightly dyslectic,

i sometimes miss my own boo boo's

Hey, I walked around for 30 minutes in great vengence and furious anger yesterday looking for a hat that was on my head the whole time. Nobodies perfect, and if they are, they fcuk it all up by making a bad night vision porno or go to jail for DUI's.

Posted by: hellbent Aug 30 2007, 07:11 PM

QUOTE (flohtingPoint @ Today at 9:24 PM)

Iam beginning to sense that Floh has grown an obsession with Paris Hilton.

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 30 2007, 07:13 PM

QUOTE (hellbent @ Today at 7:11 PM)

Iam beginning to sense that Floh has grown an obsession with Paris Hilton.

Not my obsession growing, I just have a banana in my pocket

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 30 2007, 07:55 PM

QUOTE (Inygknok @ Today at 4:45 PM)

YUP!!

the pulley and dizzy were put to TDC

rite now im actually installing the lower harness again lol well the better looking one anyway

man if u got an obsession with paris hilton ill get u ur night vision porno once i get a chance to go to teh post office

LOL on the hat thing btw

f**ken heat is killing me 105 earlier

mind u im a big fella so heat kills

hey floh wut are ur views on single piece driveshaft

i picked up that S13VLSD the other day and im thinking going one piece drive shaft with it

just looking for an opinion

UPDATE

it cranks !!!

thing is i realize the gas pump isnt priming so im guessing its busted somehow even though its new...or is there a fuse somewhere???

Posted by: flohtingPoint Aug 31 2007, 06:47 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Yesterday at 7:55 PM)

hey floh wut are ur views on single piece driveshaft

They're great if you have a track only car. You want that flex in the carrier if you have a daily driver due to your tranny mounts wearing down over time, bumps, and any mishaps that occur from daily driving.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 31 2007, 07:09 AM

gravy...well this car will most likely end up as a track only in the near future...
but for now its gonna be both dd and track

but i got a deal from a local shop to get a 10lb single piece fabricated...

or should i just for now replace the bushings in the split... since they seem hella old (car has 190,000 on it)

and i want to slap that LSD i picked up aswell...

and my tranny mount is shit so i need that repaired first

any input on silicone filled mounts???

the only downside ive herd around forums is increase in shaking during idle stops

BTW
----------

i swapped out the alternator to dohc s13 alternator...
had a b!tch of a time with the bearing thats at the rear of the bottom support.. sooo...i clamped it with a clamp and a socket to pop it up from the center of the support and bam thing went in like a glove

Posted by: biggamehit Aug 31 2007, 10:15 AM

yeaup the 10amp fuse is on the passenger side.. right about 8 inches behind the head light

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Aug 31 2007, 10:34 AM

hmm ic ic

i think mine was replace with a higher amp of 15....

well ill check the fuse after work

thanks

-------

ok so no go...it cranks...but no spark

its at tdc both dizzy and pully

dd the old stick screwdriver into plug...nothing

changed coil...so now its new
still nothing...

no spark...
fuses are fine
battery is spankin new
relays are fine...
new fuel pump so its priming( fuel line has pressure)

so I dunno...I have no spark...any ideas...its not the dizzy since we tested for spark straight from the coil itself... no spark coming from it...

I have plenty of power from battery... its grounded properly...everything is nice and tight

can't be alternator since the car doesn't start actually using it until after it starts...belts have proper tension

guys I'm like totally stumped...

flohtingpoint...man any idea...biggamehit???

I beg u for help

?

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 1 2007, 12:16 AM

you have to make sure that the rotor button is right on cly number one. also you dont have to use a screwdriver. just align the TDC point up like it shows in the picture bro.

it will not spark its it 180 deg out.. you must make sure its aligned.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 1 2007, 08:23 AM

so even if I check for spark straight from the ign coil...it won't spark?!

well Ill give it another try today...anything else it could be besides wut I pointed out that's been checked

Posted by: flohtingPoint Sep 1 2007, 03:00 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 8:23 AM)

so even if I check for spark straight from the ign coil...it won't spark?!

well Ill give it another try today...anything else it could be besides wut I pointed out that's been checked

I'll begin this with saying that I'm brutally terrible at doing things w/out pics or actually being there.

Any chance I can get a brief rundown of exactly what you're doing so I dont have to read 9 pages of gunk? Some close-up pics of your setup would help. Have you checked your EFI fuse? How good are you with a multi-meter? Got a spare Distrib to swap in to see if that is the case?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 1 2007, 11:53 PM

sorry I can't post pics cuz my internet is down...currently reporting via pda

as far as set up its bone stock minus the clutch

s14 engine converted for s13 swap...meaning

dizzy tb headers maf harness etc...

new battery
new coil

and yes spare dizzy is available

just checked ign module (above s13 dohc ign coil assembly) and it tested good...

I have a multi meter vailable...

ill post pics as soon as I have internet up

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 2 2007, 05:10 AM

bro what you need to do now is check you ecu for error codes.. it will tell you exactly whats wrong...

11 is the code for CAS if thats bad you will need another dizzy

all the info you need on this
http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?p=333154#post333154

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 2 2007, 08:56 AM

damn....why did this turn so difficult lol...only me

cas? cam or is it crank angle sensor?

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 2 2007, 09:01 AM

cas=Crank angle sensor and in the books Cam angle sensor.. same stuff.. checking the ecu is simple bro just red the steps

1. pull ecu out ( 10mm socket)

2. rotate clockwise hold 2 seconds ( flat head )

3. rotate counter clockwise and read blinks and your done...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 2 2007, 09:55 AM

aite sounds simple enough....

ill give it a try once the sun drops a few degrees

were at 104 rite now

at the request of mister flohtingpoint

overview
user posted image

coil

plugs

dizzy

tps and tb connections
user posted image

fuel rail

alternator

user posted image

2 plugs i dont have any idea wut there for

user posted image

hope that helps flohting point

Mods please forgive size of pics, size is needed for details

Posted by: flohtingPoint Sep 3 2007, 07:50 AM

Eh, i'll have to check that from home, whatever site you're using to upload the photos is getting prox'ed.

QUOTE

11 is the code for CAS if thats bad you will need another dizzy

Yea, that's what I was thinking, hence the question I posed about having a spare distrib to plop in there. Since he has one, I'd just skip the ECU part, throw the distrib in right now and go from there. If it doesnt work, then test ECU.

No one answered my question of if the EFI fuse has been changed yet.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 3 2007, 08:27 AM

were is the EFI fuse located !?

ill check it

Posted by: flohtingPoint Sep 3 2007, 08:31 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 8:27 AM)

were is the EFI fuse located !?

ill check it

On a KA, jeez, you're digging up some anchient knowledge here, I rarely touch them so I dont have the locations of such memorized. I'd just look at the tops of your fuseboxes and find it. I mean, you only have like two or three in there, so its all of 2 minutes of work.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 3 2007, 09:10 AM

very true

i guess i have to take apart the airbox to get to the one fuse box lol

aite i will upadte asap

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 3 2007, 09:37 AM

NON ON ONO dude you gotta read the stuff i put up

Fuel pump fuse is located 8 inches behind the passenger headlight

also that alternator ground should be on that lower bolt to the far left on that picture

also on you intake mani get rid of those vacuum lines and that sensor with the lil green tip.. only one that should be hooked up is a line going to the fuel pressure regulator...

and when you get it ALLLLL done... can engine degreeser bro..

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 3 2007, 06:50 PM

wuyt does it mean if i look at the ecu while turning the key and niether red or green light turn on throughout me turning the key????

fried ECU

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 3 2007, 06:59 PM

none of the lights turn on while turning

turn the key to acc

turn the dial fully clockwise.. hold for 2 seconds....

turn fully counter clock wise

and read blinks

also dude if you have green and red bulbs

YOU HAVE THE WRONG ECU lol

thats a s14 obdII ecu.. you need a obd1 ( 91-93) dohc ecu.

also i checked out your pics.. relocate that ground wire for the injectors to the side of the block right below the Crank Case vent tube... much better ground.. that may be your issue also.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 4 2007, 06:40 AM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Yesterday at 6:59 PM)

well i saw a red bulb...

i assumed there be a green like my sohc ecu

and i doubt it could be the wrong ecu since it plugs into the dohc s13 harness

ill give it a second look

the screw im suppose to turn...is it the one designatee as the idle adjuster???
which i believe is a flat head crew?

just tryin to clarify

user posted image

issue...

so i lpug the battery back on and notice my tailights stay turned on as if im hitting the brake pedal...the pedal isnt jammed or anything...

but i did notice a yellow wire had come loose ( wire is located under center dach nect to e-brake) ...should i just connect it back together?
user posted image

FYI
---------

secondary dizzy i have was first tested in my friend dohc s13 engine (which runs great)

and dizzy worked properly

so atleast i knoe this dizzy worked

installed into my car. set to to TDC with pulley aswell

nothing...

just incase that would help

JUST WANNA SAY

Thanks again guys, ur help is appreciated greatly...

~~~~~~~~~~~~update
ok so i checked the ECU in the light and there is indeed 2 bulbs red and green... how can it be an s14 ecu if it plugged rite into my s13 harness.... would that mean the ecu is an OBD1 s14 ( meaning off a 95 s14) ?!!??!

user posted image

BTW Biggamehit...for now is this ok
user posted image

and were would be better to ground the wire u speak of???

user posted image

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 5 2007, 07:34 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Yesterday at 6:40 AM)

and were would be better to ground the wire u speak of???

user posted image

look about 2 oclock from where its bolted now.. theres a bolt right on the block where its suppose to be.

also that wire if the color matches connect it back

yea man thats the adjuster screw.. if you read the directions lol it tells you what to do.

also man get rid of all those vacuums man
sorry man im strapped for time bro...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 5 2007, 07:57 AM

for now the vacum lines are blocked off...once i get some time ill measure em out and just get proper length hoses

as far as the ECU...does it look rite to u?

and i see the bolt ur talking bout i switch it over today...

dont worry to much on time though...

Funny story
-------------------------------------
so i got home yesterday to see a tow truck parked inside my driveway with some mechanic there looking at my car wiht my dad tryin to explain the situation
the cocky f*ck looked at me and thought i was retarded...then again i told him wut the situation was and he was utterly speachless... hes done engine swaps b4 ( same engine to same car) but nothing like this... simply put he just left speechless that this can work, has worked, and scratchin his head...

im not tryin to put down mechanics in any way, i respect them...its just his attitude towards me wasnt rite, if u were there u probably would have reacted the way i did....

needless to say the guy just put his hands in the air as to say ''i dunno'' and went on his mary way

basically my dad tried to pull a fast one on me, but would have screwed himself over if they took the car to the shop and they couldnt do anything...

------------------

biggamehit: i remember u telling me of an aftermarket blocking plate for the EGR... any chance u might have the website and or link to were to buy it..!?

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 6 2007, 05:50 AM

i have never seen that number on a dohc ecu.. they are generally 28... i don't know if thats a cali thing or what.. ill try and find my ecu chart..

also you can just buy plugs for the vacuum stems.

for egr go to ebay... type

240sx egr

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 6 2007, 07:01 AM

gravy...thanks for the EGR input

i knoe theres a listing in Zilvia.net of ECU numbers...

just incase though i did find an ECU off a S13 that match nissan OEM vin number to a 91 MT car

so ill double check the list for my ECU first b4 anything...
thanks Biggamehit

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 6 2007, 11:47 AM

no problem bro.. i didn't say it was wrong.. i just personally never seen a 10 before.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 6 2007, 01:11 PM

ohh nah man i didnt imply it was wrong...cus cmon fin california with high emissions standards, has to change shit around for everything lol

but ill double check the number when i get home just in case cuz like u mentioned b4 that the rite ECU doesnt have a green bulb...mine does...

maybe a California thing i dunno...

but now that i have that list i can verify it

BTW biggamehit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-EGR-BLOCK-OFF-PLATE-TURBO-240-SX-KA24_W0QQitemZ280148473564QQihZ018QQcategoryZ42604QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

would PVT silicone work ?

Posted by: HorizontalMitsubishi Sep 6 2007, 05:31 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 1:11 PM)

what exactly is PVT silicone. i've only used RTV silicone I like RTV ultra black.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 6 2007, 07:05 PM

lol mah bad misspell lol

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 7 2007, 05:39 AM

hell no bro lol.. just do it right bro and get the block off..

hmm

what exactly are you talking about using it on???

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 7 2007, 06:57 AM

the front cover...above the water pump...

to so i can attempt to put valves to TDC

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 7 2007, 09:26 AM

put the valves at tdc..

you mean cams.. you don't wanna touch those.. they are fine.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 7 2007, 09:59 AM

ok

it was a suggestion from a NIco member...

but ill let it go lol

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 7 2007, 03:12 PM

yea after you build a motor bro.......

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 10 2007, 05:52 PM

alrighty then...after much headaches...set backs...being stumpped by a non sparking damn coil......ITS OVER BABY....

the car lives

end result of not sparking...................................MAF

switch it out after switching coil...distributer...and ISM....it was my MAF

switched it and the f-ucken thing sparked no problem...hoocked everything thing back up to TDC...and my baby came to LIFE

repaired tranny cuz it as jammed, some how jammed between to gears and locked itself...so fixed that aswelll...

now its just my tailights seem to stay on like if im mashin the brake WTF

Posted by: DeeBo Sep 10 2007, 06:27 PM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 5:52 PM)

alrighty then...after much headaches...set backs...being stumpped by a non sparking damn coil......ITS OVER BABY....

the car lives

end result of not sparking...................................MAF

switch it out after switching coil...distributer...and ISM....it was my MAF

switched it and the f-ucken thing sparked no problem...hoocked everything thing back up to TDC...and my baby came to LIFE

repaired tranny cuz it as jammed, some how jammed between to gears and locked itself...so fixed that aswelll...

now its just my tailights seem to stay on like if im mashin the brake WTF

Congrats man. I can't wait to go through something like this with my car (because I'll learn alot).

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 10 2007, 08:18 PM

congrats bro.. but the MAF has nothing at all to do with spark. that just measure air flow

however you said coil.. now that has all to do with spark..

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 10 2007, 09:24 PM

well coil was replaced a while ago...i dunno maybe it just needed the hit from a certain hammer

but after finally getting things hooked back up it started rite up

though i did set it to 20 b4 dead center just for the hell of it.... it worked...

ill post a vid of it ASAP

u guys in this thread who helped...roxs

Posted by: Ayako Watanabe Sep 10 2007, 09:28 PM

Holy crap its done!? WOOT! Congrats man! Post those vids to see your creation

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 11 2007, 11:51 AM

its at the shop getting the LSD installed...didnt have enough man power to break the bolts on the drive shaft...so airgun for the job is better.. lol

ill post ASAP

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 11 2007, 02:48 PM

you don't use a air gun on the drive shaft bolts bro.

they are 4 14mm nuts.

i hope you didn't try to separate the center section of the drive shaft, thats a no no

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 11 2007, 06:47 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 2:48 PM)

you don't use a air gun on the drive shaft bolts bro.

they are 4 14mm nuts.

i hope you didn't try to separate the center section of the drive shaft, thats a no no

well i dont knoe wut there gonna use...i just couldnt get enough man power at my house to break the bolts loose so its at my friends shop on a lift which will be easier for installin

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 11 2007, 09:29 PM

dude i have done it on the ground with about 5in of clearance at the junk yard before... you were trying to break the wrong bolts.. there is more force on a lug nut then there is on the 14mm nut

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 11 2007, 09:55 PM

i actually tried from both ends... neither budge... trust me jigga i tried for a while and nohting...even tried some WD to try to looses, and some i believe called BT blaster or somehting of the sort... nothign

no biggie though the work is getting done for free... with new oil and i only payed 25 bucks for the tow truck for gas... no its no tot bad

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 11 2007, 09:56 PM

10-4

just happy u got it running dude..

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 11 2007, 10:58 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 9:56 PM)

10-4

just happy u got it running dude..

and i big credit goes out to u sir for the help indeed

now i just need to get some tires lloll

ill keep this thread open, since i am going to get some modifications for this thing

all in all this wasnt an easy swap...due to all the BS that occurd obviously...but learning lesson indeed

i am though going to start traking this car every month or wenever the track is open for events...

once i get my feet nice and wet then ill start considering upgrades suspension wise and wut not...

for now th engine and the LSD is pretty damn good id say for the cost of around 450 after everything spent... so its gravy

i did however get to see a CEFIRO the other night... tuned for track very pimp ride if i say so myself....

and funny thing my friend just picked up a Pulsar for 6 bills...N/A CA inside... hmmm

got to see a RB20 240sx Convertible the other night... hella freakin nice...

kinda considering it...but not anytime soon...

________________________________________________________

b4 i get anal raped about this stuff...first off they were given to me so no money was involved
so free is always good rite...

user posted image

plus its always good to knoe more of wuts going on

as far as the 180sx lights... might pick up the bumper might just sell em for a profit... so i dunno

BACK TO DRAWING BOARD

ok so new problem...

fuel

fuel pressure doesnt stay constant...it build up when first priming.. but when the car starts after a minute it boggle and dies...
the pressure is rite...

fuel pump is new new...like i just finished swapping it and it does the same B.S.

any thoughts....anyone?!?!?!

Posted by: Dat Chau Sep 13 2007, 02:57 PM

Congrats on the engine swap man. I hope I can do just as well when I do a 20B swap in my baby.

Posted by: Rudy Sep 13 2007, 03:04 PM

OLOL it says "JDM" on the box and reads Fahrenheit.

Don't get me wrong, Fahrenheit >>>>>>>> Celsius but that's just funny. I'm almost 100% sure Celsius is the "JDM" standard.

Posted by: Dat Chau Sep 13 2007, 03:20 PM

QUOTE (Dori @ Today at 7:04 PM)

Don't get me wrong, Fahrenheit >>>>>>>> Celsius but that's just funny. I'm almost 100% sure Celsius is the "JDM" standard.

Yeah, last time I checked, the Japanese used celsius or even kelvin.

Posted by: Möbius Sep 13 2007, 03:36 PM

QUOTE (Dori @ Today at 7:04 PM)

OLOL it says "JDM" on the box and reads Fahrenheit.

Don't get me wrong, Fahrenheit >>>>>>>> Celsius but that's just funny. I'm almost 100% sure Celsius is the "JDM" standard.

Sorry, but I have to disagree.

Physics calculations for example, are much easier in the metric system.

Posted by: Rudy Sep 13 2007, 03:37 PM

QUOTE (Dat Chau @ Today at 7:20 PM)

Yeah, last time I checked, the Japanese used celsius or even kelvin.

Kelvin - is that like the one where your body temperature is something insane like 450 something degrees? x.<

Posted by: Möbius Sep 13 2007, 03:39 PM

QUOTE (Dori @ Today at 7:37 PM)

Kelvin - is that like the one where your body temperature is something insane like 450 something degrees? x.<

Kelvin = Celsius - 273

No negative temps exist in Kelvin.

Body temp would be 305-309?

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 13 2007, 04:48 PM

uve missed the point...FREEE

still though problem persist

fuel pressure doesnt stay constant...it build up when first priming.. but when the car starts after a minute it boggle and dies...
the pressure is rite...

fuel pump is new new...like i just finished swapping it and it does the same B.S.

any thoughts....anyone?!?!?!

Posted by: Fused Sep 13 2007, 06:58 PM

pooped pressure reg. my legacy does it when its just been start, and Ive prettymuch eliminated everything else.

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 13 2007, 06:59 PM

check those injectors and make sure the fpr has the vacuum onit

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 13 2007, 07:37 PM

i will do...tomorrow...car isnt home so i gotta go bust a mission to get to it...

Posted by: MG starion Sep 13 2007, 11:39 PM

might not hurt to look at the fuel filter as well, maybe it got clocked up and slowly lets fuel past, which is why it works when you start but slowly looses it,

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 14 2007, 06:35 AM

well when i did the swap it was recomended to change the whole fuel line system, pump,filter,strainer...which i did, and i did it also cuz i thought pump size might be different, u knoe going from SOHC to DOHC, but nah the pumps are all the same...but i still changed it...

but it might have gotten clogged maybe, but we tested the fuel pressure which i think was like 40 or something i dont remember...

wont hurt to check again

Posted by: Smiley_DC2 Sep 15 2007, 04:43 AM

what a freakin' awesome thread here! good work dalaz and props to biggame and other who helped my man here

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 15 2007, 09:29 AM

Bro.. yea i got around to doing a auto to manual swap in another car..

dude you have the wrong ecu.. you need a obd1 dohc ecu.

10-11 is sohc.

most common number is 28

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 15 2007, 03:31 PM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Today at 9:29 AM)

Bro.. yea i got around to doing a auto to manual swap in another car..

dude you have the wrong ecu.. you need a obd1 dohc ecu.

10-11 is sohc.

most common number is 28

we switched ECU's already .... to the right number ( checked wolftech listing of ECU's)

UPDATE:

so the car runs fine....when the MAF sensor is disconnected...the MAF works since we hooked it to another running car and it was fine...

so once again im stumped???

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 18 2007, 06:36 PM

so nothing good yet...bah

fuel problem fixed so now it why is the idle is so bad

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 18 2007, 09:47 PM

plugs ( with proper gaping) wires, rotor, cap dirty ground

also make sure no unused vacuums are open

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 18 2007, 10:08 PM

were doing all that as we speak..urmm write

Posted by: flohtingPoint Sep 19 2007, 05:28 AM

QUOTE (biggamehit @ Yesterday at 9:47 PM)

plugs ( with proper gaping) wires, rotor, cap dirty ground

also make sure no unused vacuums are open

Add f**ked ICV/EGR to that list.

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 19 2007, 05:59 AM

hahhahha whats that.. has not been on my car in 5 years lol..

but yea indeed if you are running that crap check it bro

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 19 2007, 10:26 AM

IVC ??? im left stupified

EGR is working...unbolted and bolted it to another car ran fine

(originally considered pluggin EGR but decided to just be safe for now and use it)

Biggamehit...even if the EGR was f*cked...how do u run ur can w/out one

Posted by: evo4life Sep 19 2007, 01:12 PM

you dont need it. You can just plug any vac lines left behind the intake mani and block off the bung in the header. Since we are in Cali, we will get a code thrown for this, but I've read you can bypass it with a resistor.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 19 2007, 03:52 PM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 1:12 PM)

or an ECU from out of state i lbelieve..but not certain

Posted by: Möbius Sep 19 2007, 05:02 PM

I think it would throw a code here as well ( for disconnected vac lines ), so an out of state CPU might not do the trick...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 19 2007, 07:51 PM

QUOTE (Apex Carver @ Today at 5:02 PM)

I think it would throw a code here as well ( for disconnected vac lines ), so an out of state CPU might not do the trick...

ahh very true

gonna see wuts up witht the ivc later tonite assuming I get out of work in 30 mins

Posted by: biggamehit Sep 19 2007, 09:41 PM

i have never thrown one code or cel light in 5 years

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 19 2007, 10:48 PM

but wut could cause the IVC to break down...second do i need it ...if not wut do i need to do to take it out///and finally if i take it out does that mean i can take out the egr and plug it???

Posted by: evo4life Sep 20 2007, 07:16 AM

There is a thread on NICO for this: http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=157751 Tells you everything you can get rid off and still run your engine properly. Whether it will make your car's emission smell noticeable, I am not sure, but you'll need to get a hook up when you do your smog check.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 20 2007, 08:51 AM

QUOTE (evo4life @ Today at 7:16 AM)

hook ups are no problem,

just getting the car to run properly is the only issue...

i have to drive about a good 35 miles to get to it...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 23 2007, 12:14 PM

so the cars back in ops lol

still gotta fix timing slightly

Posted by: HorizontalMitsubishi Sep 23 2007, 03:50 PM

well glad to hear you have it running.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 23 2007, 05:05 PM

yeah thnaks mang

too bad i still need to hook up the P/S and fix a mount

picked up some tires for the rear though...shouldve seen the rear rite tire...just shit lol

Posted by: rogersj3 Sep 23 2007, 10:42 PM

Just sat here and read through this whole thread and I've gotta say man, you've got guts. Wish we had the same resources in the Midwest (Cincinnati, OH) that you've got in Cali. Nice work with your car - now go get drifting!

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 24 2007, 06:21 AM

QUOTE (rogersj3 @ Yesterday at 10:42 PM)

now go get drifting!

thanks for the support bud...but i doubt ima drift any time soon lol

this for now is autoX and DD purpose for now

UPDATE:

well the car runs like a champ...even though its got a shot mount and no P/S

only problem iv got left is a huge exaust leak...so big...that when i floored it last night all the exaust came into the cabin nearly chockin me and my passengers LOL

so the car is sitting at home for now

exaust leak location: copper pipe on the down pipe that leads to the black box (on the left side of the car)

problem the pipe was cut out of frustration during swap and now was to short for the rubber hose...which doesnt matter now because the black box is now nothign more than melted goo lol

so any sggestions for this

either should i JB weld it shut or get it welded or replace down pipe assembly

looking for cheapest/safest suggestion here folks lol

Update :

well i decided to just weld the pipe shut and seems to be working...shifters not heating up anymore...

tranny is still leaking but easy fix is new/used tranny, just gotta find one, for cheap that is

problem though:

in lower gears ( 1-3 ) the car acts normally

but when i push it for 4- 5 is sputters, like struggling, i should say its struggling to suck in air or possibly struggling to realease air ( i.e. exaust)

its so bad and annorying

my though is:

if its struggling to realease pressure, could it be because the downpipe is from the SOHC (SOHC seems to be more restricted because its still 2 pipes to the DOHC which is a single piece downpipe, i think)... so my thought is, if i replace the downpipe to a single piece itll help obviously

if itsnot that...

thendoes that mean i have some sort of air leak leading to TB?

the only obvious area i could think of having an air leak would be the intake stock pipe, which is from an auto, and has a hose connection at the bottom, which is sealed with tape currently...

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 27 2007, 07:34 AM

basically all my updates are on my previous post...just given it a bump hopefully Biggamehit or Floh catch this

basically i figured it might be the clutch that isnt grabbing, hence the boggong when i try to shift....weak

but i still need more opinions on it

heres the situation...

im on first ad i shift to second...when im around say... 2k rpm's and im going around say 30ish .... the car starts to bob back n forth like it wants to die or something... i try to shift to 3rd and it keeps doing it...

someone told me its most likely the pressure plate on the clutch that keeps slipping...ive never driven a car wiht a slipping clutch so i honestly wouldnt knoe

mind you no air leaks...no exaust leak...and car was timed with timing gun to stock nissan specs

Posted by: flohtingPoint Sep 27 2007, 09:08 AM

QUOTE (DALAZ_68 @ Today at 7:34 AM)

Clutch would have nothing at all to do with bogging. If your clutch was going out, you'd just catch a bunch of revs and your car would smell like you just pissed into a frying pan and placed the stove on 10.

This reeks of vac/MAF problems I'd say w/out actually being there and having a vague description.

Posted by: DALAZ_68 Sep 27 2007, 09:36 AM

well like the its stops bogging once its over or at 2k rpm for 2-4 seconds

at first i thought... ohh after market clutch... might need to ingage later and and im not letting reach a high enough rev to catch smoothly.... but i dooubt thats the case...when in fact im on second...and im going around 25, and try to shift.. and bog bog bog

the MAF is brand new aswell...hooked it up to friends car (dohc KA) and it worked fine, even did some hard shifts on it and still no bogging

and by VAC do u mean vacuum leak?

cuz that could be it...but i cant find a leak anywhere

then i smell a burning...then again that could be cause im just burning it while trying to get it to stop bogging...

ill post a video of wuts happening ill just hope u car hear it properly ...

Posted by: evo4life Sep 27 2007, 10:00 AM

All that crap would probably give me a headache. You'd assume everything should be easy since you just installed another stock motor. I remember installing my motor and doing a quick check making sure everything was connected right. Finally I just said F*** it and started it up. Never had problems.