I also found out where the song files are... Obviously, I'm gonna mod Deja Vu in.
Will report back once it's done!
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| Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Initial D Arcade Stage > Teknoparrot now supports ID4 through IDZ |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 4 2017, 01:18 AM | ||||||||
As seen on Youtube, the Sega RingEdge loader now works with ID6AA
There is steering wheel support (Tested with G27, works well) Multiplayer support available Card system supported Online support via Steam DO NOT ASK FOR GAME DUMP/BACKUP/ISO! Please download Teknoparrot https://teknoparrot.com/ Edit your card using I'm Not MentaL's Initial D trainer (Download in Patreon page): https://www.patreon.com/posts/initiald-arcade-16661248
UPDATE: Teknoparrot now supports ID4 all the way up to ID8, as well as IDZ (Initial D Zero) ver. 1 This new how-to video by EternalOblivion96 does a good job helping with the setup ID4-8
IDZv1
IDZv2 is currently in the wild but is currently not supported by Teknoparrot. Setting up is a bit complex but you can check out the guide below to get it running using ZeroLauncher https://docs.google.com/document/d/1761ncRhLM-2dGSn048N5kBE-i8l-_1vcxe4x4KQFQMk OP post doesn't get updated much. Questions can be answered in https://discord.gg/DT9pkG ALL CREDITS TO TEKNOPARROT devs, Reaver, EternalOblivion96, and I'm Not MentaL |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 4 2017, 02:03 AM |
| Sadamine was an unlockable stage in the +E update if I was not wrong. There was no offline code password for it |
| Posted by: Lordmau5 Jul 4 2017, 03:12 AM |
| I can confirm the game is a blast, if only the emulator wouldn't crash occasionally I also found out where the song files are... Obviously, I'm gonna mod Deja Vu in. Will report back once it's done! |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 4 2017, 04:49 AM | ||||||
| Additional tutorial vids on how to: Full Spec a default car:
For some reason, you can't seem to add turbo/supercharger/racing engine to the default AE86 Trueno. Change dress-up parts on default car:
No vids on color, but you can also change the default color of the car via xxxxx_car_color_info. So if you want a pink AE86 Trueno, cut and paste the line with PINK to any of the first 3 lines of color like this:
|
| Posted by: Akii Jul 4 2017, 05:20 AM |
| The full spec tutorial doesn't actually work. What he actually has changed was just the number of variations that particular tuning parts has. Even if you do follow like what he did, your car still remains like it never got tuned. The huge speed loss when you turn when your car isn't tuned at all is still there |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 4 2017, 06:57 AM |
| Eventhough you change the specs in the .txt file and still feel the difference. in the video he did explain that as long as you're a guest profile, the game slows down your car when turning. personal experience the game slows down your car eventhough in gold drift and you cant seem to get past a certain time record because of that. EDIT : Scratch that. after a closer look yes it changes nothing eventhough you have modded it. Though I have seen several people being able to tune their cars and get up to PLATINUM time attacks. but I have no idea how. |
| Posted by: awddrifter Jul 5 2017, 05:05 PM |
| I just got this set up yesterday, and I'm so glad this is possible on PC now! Thanks for the info on it!  Also.... to anyone else using a G27... do you also have issues mapping shift up & down to the paddles behind the wheel? I can't get them to work. I mapped shift down to the left paddle, and shift up to the right paddle. It just alternates between shift up and down really quickly when I hit one of the paddles. I had to map shift up and down to the red buttons on the steering wheel instead. |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 5 2017, 06:51 PM | ||
why don't you use your shifter? I mapped my shift up to gear 4 and shift down to gear 3. Then I put rubber bands on the shifter to make sure the shifter goes back to neutral after shifting...it's an old school trick from Extreme Stage days |
| Posted by: awddrifter Jul 5 2017, 11:01 PM |
| ^ I was planning on doing that, if there wasn't an easy fix for shifting on the flappy-paddles. I'll try that tonight after I get back home from work. I also have a Driving Force GT wheel with the sequential shifter, and it has the same problem. Toggles between the up and down shift quickly when you go to shift, and you will be stuck in gear. EDIT: Also, in each <maker>_car_info.txt file (such as NISSAN_car_info.txt, etc), change the "2" near the end of each line to a "6" for each car, and it will unlock fullspec for that car. We've been discussing it in the Teknogods discord. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 6 2017, 01:30 AM |
| Haven't tried it yet but then I do my old G25 steering wheel is going to die after D6.....this is not a kind game to the hardware. |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 6 2017, 02:31 AM | ||
I noticed the difference after driving with the "fullspec". But I'm still not convinced it's true fullspec, not until we can figure out how to mod the files to get the racing engine on the Trueno ...or even there's some guy on twitter who mod the 86 Levin to have misfiring system lol |
| Posted by: awddrifter Jul 6 2017, 03:32 AM |
| ^ Yeah, it seems like that's only 1 part of what you have to do. A guy on twitter with the username @ncqp36 got fullspec to work. He says you have to change the 封印カーフラグ as I described, but also the 車種特性フラグ in the parameter info files. He's not giving out details on what to change them to though... :/ |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 6 2017, 06:01 PM |
| Before this gets lost and asked again, this is what you have to change to get the race engine on the AE86T: Change the last number in the car parameter for the AE86T to 7340135 In doing so would get you the Group A racing engine sound, acceleration boost, and the racing tachometer. Other values would only give you one or the other properties in-game. |
| Posted by: holnivek Jul 7 2017, 03:39 AM |
| Saw some videos of a guy playing on Tsuchisaka and Sadamine. Anyone knows how you can unlock these courses? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2m3kjykxfg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyzY0zX7CPo |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 7 2017, 04:37 AM | ||
Change the Course order in the COURSE_DATA.ini Though beware that the game might crash from time to time if it doesn't like the order. Do some trial and error. |
| Posted by: awddrifter Jul 7 2017, 05:11 AM | ||
The way I played Sadamine in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlbIo3fA2BI I just copied all the Sadamine course data in COURSE_DATA.ini, and pasted it over the Myogi data further up in the file. Then, in the few lines where it says "[ Sadamine_Day_Dry ], "[ Sadamine ]", etc... I just changed those to "[ Myogi_Day_Dry ]", "[ Myogi ]", etc. Should be only 5 lines you have to change. Now when you load Myogi, it will load Sadamine instead. There's probably multiple ways to go about it, but they will all be in COURSE_DATA.ini. Changing the course load order near the top of the file might work too (and might be easier). |
| Posted by: Lordmau5 Jul 7 2017, 05:27 AM | ||
| Oh yea! Reporting back in with the music mods! I finally managed to get it working without any issues
I think the audio levels are still a bit too high and I noticed that there are some audio files that need to be set to infinite loop (music, for example). Other than that it's pretty solid and also pretty straight forward once you have used it around 300 times thanks to debugging...  |
| Posted by: awddrifter Jul 7 2017, 08:34 AM |
| ^ I was there in the channel when you had success (I'm zeroyon04) Thanks for your hard work!! I eagerly await a video tutorial on how you accomplished it (as you mentioned), once you have the free time to do one |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jul 7 2017, 04:30 PM |
| Hi, anyone of you play it in the midnight? I only have time playing in the midnight and there is a stupid Shop closing restriction. Only able to play 1 round and the system will say shop is closing and end the session~ Anyway to overcome this? |
| Posted by: holnivek Jul 7 2017, 08:31 PM | ||||||
Thank you both, I'll try that out. Finally there's a way to get rid of Lake Akina 
I did, and got the same restriction. I suspect it's retrieving the time from your PC. If that's the case, you might try setting your PC time to morning or something when you play during midnight. On a side note, I'm feeling a HUGE deadzone when I play this game on my steering wheel. Turning Sto0z on didn't help much, if at all. Anyone else facing the same issue? |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 7 2017, 10:50 PM | ||
Are you using the latest version? I'm also using a wheel to play and its okay. Update to version 0.71 of the TeknoParrot loader. |
| Posted by: holnivek Jul 8 2017, 01:43 AM | ||
You're right. I was on 0.70, upgraded to 0.71 and the car corresponds nicely to my wheel. Now I just have to figure out how to disable the goddamn FFB on my G29. Some genius at Logitech decided it was a good idea have FFB be fully controlled by the game instead of the driver/software. Also, for those wondering, if you're annoyed by the game ending at the end of each round due to the time restriction, you can go into test mode and change it so that it will keep going. |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jul 8 2017, 02:36 AM | ||
I was on 0.71 and i used 270 degree for my g27. thats the best at the moment. Remember to turn off center spring force as it will heat up your FFB motor is not good for long hours~ I am still digging file on how to disable the speedcut during cornering~ changing manufacturer file value doesnt help much but i saw someone on youtube already done it. |
| Posted by: holnivek Jul 8 2017, 02:55 AM | ||
I'm using a G29. For some reason, not only is my self-centering setting not working (I had it set to 0), my steering's degree of rotation also went full retard (set to 540, but still turns all the way to 900). Freaking logitech I swear to god. Did you mean changing your cars to full spec? If so, navigate to data\CAR\info_csv and look for files named <manufacturer>_car_info.txt. Open up these files, change the last numerical value on each line to 6 (they're usually set to 2) and you're good. I was able to get a few platinums after doing this, even though I'm new to D6. |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jul 8 2017, 05:21 AM | ||
no wonder. I just put 4 as show on some youtuber. Maybe i will crank it up to 6 later. There another youtuber messed with the tuning info txt. I tried it and straightway the speedcut comes in even though i already done the manufacturer txt to 4 ( without editing the tuning txt the car speedcut was removed) Just now i tried messed with the parameter txt and got a 13k rpm meter for my fd3s. Damn LOL one problem i encounter just now is, i tried to modified exterior of ap1 to js racing which crashed the whole thing. I wondered whats the problem. Oh ya. For the logitech thingy, On global device setting Try disable all the FFB parameter ( all down to 0)and tick center spring and put it at 0% Then tick the specific steering angle and lock it at 270. untick report combined pedal untick allow game to change setting. Do not create game profile first and try this ( delete it if you have a profile) Mine was like that thou. Anytime can default it one so yeah i dont have a concern on changing it XD |
| Posted by: samtruong200 Jul 8 2017, 08:29 AM |
| Is anybody able to play with a 360 controller? I can't map the gas and brake to the controller |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 9 2017, 06:57 AM | ||
You could map it to RT and LT, and then make sure you have both Full Axis and Reverse Axis are both checked for both sets. In my case for example I have brake mapped to LT and gas to RT and it writes there Z- and Z+ for Gas Axis and Brake Axis respectively. You can map the car steering to left analog by clicking "Wheel Axis" then moving the stick. Make sure it writes "X-" in the box before saving. Also map gear up and gear down to something. In addition, it's also advisable to have things like Start, View Select, Menu Up, Menu Down, Menu Left and Menu right mapped. I don't know whether there are any limitations but I was able to play a full regular game on Akina DH with the default car settings. Hope this helps. I'm going to try find my old G25 and set it up again, but am using a 360 controller in the meantime. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 9 2017, 09:03 AM | ||
It had been a while since I posted on this forum, but here to confirm it does work with a Xbox 360 controller. I actually uses a PS4 controller. With the use of DS4Windows (thanks Jays2Kings!), it made the controller appear as XInput and everything is fine. One major issue that I had found is the inability to step on the brakes and the throttle at the same time. Not sure if I am the only one with this problem, or the creator of Teknoparrot overlooked something. Video game-play soon! Edit:
|
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 10 2017, 08:36 AM |
| Any tips for newbies? This is my first IDAS game since the series went HD. How do I corner fast in this game? Coming from playing IDAS 3 for a long time, none of my techniques like eraser and TST seem to work and I keep on hitting the walls like crazy. The best I can manage is a 2'43''xxx on Myogi with a EK9. A 3'17'' on Akina and a 3'09'' in Iro. How do I become better? [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 10 2017, 09:34 AM |
I can't even manage 3'19 on Akina on the emulator with a wheel........and I played this game a lot back in the day lol.  Best I can say from memory to accumulate as much as gold drifts as possible, because you get a boost immediately getting a gold drift. Even if you slow down while attempting it, the net effect when executed well is that you become faster. This is pretty much the basic rule of thumb in the game. D6 can be summed up as trying drifting as many corners as you can manage, no matter how minor the corner. Usually initiated with a BC, which is quick tap on brake and accel. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 10 2017, 11:05 AM |
| Even a FF can drift now? Are there any recommended cars for beginners? Tried that full spec setting posted earlier in the thread and the EK now understeers like hell. Is that really the true full spec? Because once I try Nagao or Tsuchisaka, I will rape the wall with that car lol What about the Trueno? Or the S2000? Are they a good choice? [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 10 2017, 09:57 PM |
| Both AE86s are good all round choices (arguably too good). S2000 is also good choice but best for Tsukuba OB. |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Jul 10 2017, 10:26 PM | ||
It's because the trigger shares an axis rather than being a separate input. It means the loader isn't able to discern between the two. It's half a driver issue, half a loader issue. Since it's unlikely the loader folks are going to fix it (since the arcade cab handles them as separate inputs), you're better off going through your controller's driver settings and looking for a way to separate the axes. |
| Posted by: holnivek Jul 10 2017, 11:30 PM | ||||
I don't see prompts like that in my global device setting. I'm using the G29 and tweaking it through LGS, is that what you do too?
So you get gold drifts even in offline games? Man, I've been trying to minimize drifting seeing how much it reduced my speed Also, I heard you need to manage your tires in D6. What's the deal with that? Do your tires lose grip if you drift too much? |
| Posted by: streetstyle Jul 11 2017, 02:48 AM |
| is this true that it will only run with Nivida graphics card? Also what spec PC will run this well?? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 11 2017, 03:50 AM | ||||||
It can run on AMD, but you need to fiddle with the settings a lot. I don't know what needs to be done though but I hear that someone is working on sort of a settings guide or files to help streamline the process for new users with AMD cards. You might want to ask the Teknogods forum for that if someone already posted it. I don't know the recommended specs but it's not too high.
I can't remember well anymore but tire management basically means not wasting too much boost. Means try to purposely drive slower else you will run out of boost at the last section of the race. But I'm under the impression this part of the game has been nerfed considerably compared to D5, where it was a huge part of the game. Really my advice is just as follows: avoid hitting walls, get as many gold drifts as possible. I have an old Akina DH video I made back in the day that might be showing something like that:
|
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jul 11 2017, 04:50 AM | ||
 Image size reduced, original size: unknown. https://pretendracecars.files.wordpress.com/2016/10/untitled-4.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. this menu |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 11 2017, 05:38 AM | ||
No, a guy called Avail has made a mod called idlogger to support non nVidia GPUs. I'm using it on a RX 480. No tweaking is needed, just paste the 'plugins' folder and the dinput8.dll in the game folder (where id6_dump_.exe is) and you will be fine. But since the mod is a WIP, the graphics aren't as pretty as the arcade. Rain and night time are fugly in particular but day is pretty much the same except the reflections. @Sonic: Damn, the Project.D Trueno is amazing. Now I have a 2'39 in Myogi and Akagi, a 3'14 at Akina and a 3'02 at Iro. The gold drifts are helping out a lot. Thanks for the tip. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 11 2017, 05:58 PM | ||
I doubt that it is a DS4Windows drivers issue. This is because I just tried to play GTA V using the controller with the exact same drivers and no changes, when I held down both triggers, the car in GTA V does a burnout. This shows that the driver is treating the trigger as 2 different axes, and I am fairly certain Xinput either can, or already handles both triggers as separate axes. Well, TeknoParrot is still in its early stages of development anyway. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 11 2017, 08:09 PM | ||
It is a problem with Initial D, not the loader. The game was not designed with controllers in mind. Since most wheels like the G29 have the accel and brake on separate axes, they never had to consider the possibility of someone using a controller. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 11 2017, 10:42 PM | ||
The game is not taking in controller input directly. The game is being fed wheel and pedal information, which the loader had sent based on the controller inputs. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 12 2017, 08:38 AM | ||
But what if the game itself handles them that way? Most arcade racing games handle the accel and brake on different axes. Battle Gear 4 does so too. Besides is the ability to brake and accel at the same time really needed? Some guy out there on Youtube has gotten close-to-WR times using a DualShock 4 controller, which AFAIK doesn't have its triggers on different axes. Reaver should focus on getting the card system to work instead of this. Maybe later on he can add proper support for controllers |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 12 2017, 08:44 AM | ||
my gameplay of Akina DH with an xbox 360 controller >_> |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 12 2017, 09:14 AM |
How do you do that?  I am using an AE86 too but i can never achieve those cornering speeds. Best i can do now is a 3'12''4xx on Akina. When I drift, my car goes too much sideways and I end up relying on Gold drift boost to pull me out. I am usually at 115 km/h at the apex. Can you give me a few pointers on how to drift faster? And how do I handle continuous left-right-left-right turns like the ones in Happo and Nagao? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 12 2017, 10:07 AM | ||
The ability to step on the brake and gas at the same time is not "unimportant". There are certain alternate brake cancels that uses both gas and brake, and can be useful depending on situation. Time Attack is not the entire game. And no. The game itself does not handle them that way. I've played ver. 3 all the way to 8, I can tell you all of them had brake and gas on different axes. And we already know that accel and brake on different axes is already supported in TeknoParrot, as my G27 wheel/pedal combo work as intended. Thus, it is simply a very easy "fix" instead of something that would require Reaver to divert his attention from the card system. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 12 2017, 10:58 AM |
| When did I deny that the game handles the accel and brake on different axes? I exactly stated what you said. The problem here is your controller has the triggers on the same axes. As far as the game is concerned, mapping the accel and brake to the triggers is the same as mapping them to analog stick up and down respectively. How would you accelerate and brake at the same time if you were using the stick instead? You can either push the stick up or down at a time so it is impossible. The controllers' trigger behave the same way. Plus, the Ringedge ran Windows XP so the game natively uses DirectInput which can make the fix a bit more complicated for a X360 controller. Contrary to what most people think, DirectInput is a bit more advanced than Xinput despite in that it can handle much more axes than the latter and has better rumble support. So even if Reaver can make the triggers work like seperate axes, Xinput will probably fail to understand it so you need to rewrite the controller drivers to support DirectInput which is a lot of work. Either that or modify the game itself which is a headache. Plus, did you try using the DirectInput mode of the DS4 instead of using DS4Windows? The controller does support it. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 12 2017, 06:27 PM | ||
That's pretty impressive, I'm really struggling with D6 at the moment even with a wheel. It's hard to one hand control my wheel, which I need to do when I switch gears. The centering is kind of strong and in a small wheel it's kind of hard to hold it. Trying to experiments with all kind of settings to see any I'm comfortable with. Really having a tough time counter steering. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 12 2017, 09:29 PM | ||
How do you handle the snake turns at Happo and Nagao? And how do you drift as fast as jon did in his vid? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 13 2017, 04:36 AM | ||||||
Yes. I tried. No. It does not work. In addition to that, I would like to remind you that Xinput is capable of handling 2 axes for the triggers, that is all that it matters.
Yes I do know that, thanks for telling me despite the fact that I just told you that a few posts ago though. No, my controller does not map them onto the same axis. My controller is incapable of mapping. TeknoParrot does. And no, DirectInput is not "more advanced" than Xinput. They are completely different things. DirectInput handles devices such as mouse, keyboard and controllers, while Xinput is specifically for XBox controllers. RingEdge runs on Windows Embedded 2009, not Windows XP. they are both built on the Windows NT kernel, but they are not the same thing. Does Embedded use DirectInput? Yes. In fact it uses DirectX, but that have nothing to do with anything, because the the game is not handling the inputs here when we are using the TeknoParrot loader.
Do you have any idea what you are talking about? If you don't understand it stop pretending. Do you realize what was one of the key features of Xinput? Xinput was introduced because DirectInput drivers for the XBox 360 controller handles the left and right triggers as a single axis, and rumble does not work. Xinput is not some driver that needs to be written. It is also an API. Anyway, I just updated my TeknoParrot and my issue had already been resolved. The latest version doesn't do that anymore and handles XInput properly. Big shoutout to Reaver, for spending the effort to "rewrite the controller drivers to support DirectInput which is a lot of work. Either that or modify the game itself which is a headache."  |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 13 2017, 05:08 AM |
| @Falbere wait... I met you on Rainbow Six Siege before haven't I? I even asked you about it in game. |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Jul 13 2017, 05:17 AM | ||
Holy fuck Falbere you are funny as fuck sometimes.  Yes, they are the same fuckin' thing. "but n1 you retard it's a componentized version of--" Yes, finish that sentence. Windows XP.They're the same fuckin' thing. Carry on, then. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 13 2017, 06:06 AM | ||||
Yeah I think we've met
but n1 you retard it's a componentized version of windows x- n-nani! O-ok I am s-sorry  |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 13 2017, 06:20 AM | ||||
I'm bad at explaining so here is a video of me using my xbox360 controller instead. (Sorry for the bad webcam quality) my control mappings are LT (brake) RT (accel) Left Analog (steering) Shift up ( X ) Shift down ( A ) you would actually understand how the game works if you have played the arcade one once. but reading what you said. I can only say it is really different from Ver 3. in this game BC (the term some people use to describe brake-tap and then accel) super important. I don't know about other courses but on Akina it is easier to get gold drifts by feint steering before the corner. rather than turning from 0 degrees angle. normally you'd do this in a short 1 second -feint turn + release accel -full turn and brake-tap then accel at the same time- -keep the wheel fully turned until you reach the right section in the corner to slowly retract it to 0 degrees- nailing down the timing right in each step is IMPORTANT time some steps wrongly and you either fly straight into the wall or scrape the guardrail on the way out. the key is to try getting gold drift while minimizing speed loss. and of course avoid scrapping the walls |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 13 2017, 08:07 AM |
| Looks like I got rekt lol. You were right Falbere. Thanks for the vid Jon. I'll keep practicing more [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: AllyTheFox Jul 13 2017, 11:33 AM |
| I fucking finally got the game to run! I have to say Im impressed with how smooth it is to use a controller. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 14 2017, 07:01 AM |
| I have moved on to a wheel now but something really weird was happening when I was using the controller. Basically whenever I hit 4th gear my power drops a lot. I can't even reach 5th gear cos my car doesn't have the power to reach those speeds. Prior to 4th gear, the acceleration and power were he same as a full tune car. Weird thing is, when i switched to the wheel, everything was fine. I'm no longer seeing the power loss after 4th gear despite the fact that I have made zero changes or editing to the car profiles after the switch. For whatever reason my controller can't accel fully and I know it works fine. |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Jul 14 2017, 08:19 AM |
| Both that problem and the problem Falbere was having are echoes of the issues I had playing Need for Speed with the Xbox 360 controller--which was a result of having the game not interpret the X360's single-axis triggers correctly. You end up with half the potential range on each trigger (so, essentially, an accelerator and brake that only go halfway), and they're linked so that you can't use both at the same time correctly. Sounds like Teknoparrot (or the controller driver) is doing the same thing. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 14 2017, 09:05 AM |
| for me, in 0.71, they added a specific "xinput" option in the controls menu. it solved all my previous controller issues. on an unrelated note link removed somebody need to teach me how to play the game. i can't believe i am so bad |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 14 2017, 09:35 AM |
| Ah last time I tried the controller I was using 0.7. I'm guessing that probable has been fixed in 0.71 it seems, which is good to hear. Really good job by the developers for this - and making D6 emulation possible in the first place. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 14 2017, 10:58 AM | ||
I'm no pro at this game, but is that 86 really at full spec? Because any 5 gear car at Akina when full speced will shift into 5th gear at 144 km/h but you are at 5th by 130 km/h already. That's going to cost you a lot of time on Akina due to the long straights. You are turning the wheel too much, considering the slow speeds. I never owned a proper racing wheel, but you probably need to increase the steering resistance to suit you. I don't know how the arcade cab was, but try setting the wheel so that it turns 90° either way and increase the freedom of rotation as you get more comfortable. If you find the 86 to oversteer too much, try the EK9 or the R32. The EK9 loses less speed when you turn the wheel compared to FR's and 4WDs, but the tradeoff is you will have a hard time getting the car to drift like a FR. But the car can still maintain a high speed at a low drift angle so no worries there. The way I corner right now is to tap the brake quickly and step on the gas (This is a BC, I think) as I turn the car into the corner to get it sideways. Then, I shift down to the right gear and accelerate out of the corner using very minute countersteer. That will lead you to a 3'12''xxx on Akina easily if you don't hit any walls. Similarly, I get a 2'33'' on Akagi, a 2'57" on Tsukuba, a 3'02" on Iro and a 2'39" on Myogi. My controllers's analogue sticks have a huge deadzone so I think that's the best I can do till I upgrade to a better one. Or do what Jon does since you can steer and use the pedals with more precision. You can be way more faster that way. Hope I helped a little. @ID6 pros: Can you take a look at this video? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c5Z1hPELqHM On what basis is a gold drift decided? Is it the speed or the angle? This guy steers so little (like on the first left hairpin) yet he gets a gold drift. I have to get crazy angles to get the Drift indicator flashing in gold. How do you handle tracks like Happo and Tsuchisaka? |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 14 2017, 11:46 AM |
| @Falbere Actually Gunman is onto something. but Falbere controls are quite fine. and it does sound like he's flooring it based on the sound. Its his max speed shifting point between the gears. your 5th gear shifting point is at 130. which is suppose to be from 3 to 4th gear normally max speeds at 3rd gear is 129. 4th to 5th gear at 145 Something is wrong with your file settings maybe? even on stock it doesn't shift up to 5th at 130. I've tested to see if a half depressed pedal changes the max speed shifting point. Nope. still goes at 129 max at 3rd gear It looks like your tachometer is showing 13k but at the start of first gear you got up to 12k above. Its like your 13k meter is actually a 8k meter just visually wrong. showing you a wrong red zone. The real 13k meter wont let you rev past 12k. And your ae86 sounds like an 8k meter. its not as high pitch as mine was in my video Its just like how takumi is losing power right after shifting from the red zone because of a wrong tachometer xD LOL Btw since most logitech wheels have a 900 degree turning range. and from falbere's video it does seem to lock at where the arcade wheel does. I guess its possible to see your max wheel turn range? here is a comparison with your rev point with mine  Image size reduced, original size: 771 x 346. http://i.imgur.com/w3DLYAU.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 14 2017, 12:11 PM |
| Maybe he needs to rev all the way to 13,000 RPM for each gear? My 86 redlines at 11,500 RPM. BTW, how do you handle Nagao and Happiness? [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 14 2017, 12:16 PM | ||
Yeah he needs to max it out because its actually an 8k rev point meter Im not really good with Nagao cant really advise you on that course. "Happiness"? wat. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 14 2017, 12:17 PM |
| Lol autocorrect at its finest I meant Happogahara, where Takumi raced the pro racer [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 14 2017, 12:39 PM | ||||||
Try to look for D6 videos on youtube might help happogara
nagao
|
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jul 14 2017, 05:13 PM | ||
lol~ something is definitely wrong with your 86 setting~ Mine dont rev pass 12k rpm and one more thing~ i thought rev limit for 4th gear is 14x~ why are you in 5th gear on 130 @@? cornering wise i think we are both the same~ i can only do silver ranking time on a wheel~ still figuring out the best steering rotation degree~ still raping the wall by the moment~ |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 14 2017, 08:26 PM | ||
I'm going to just reset all my files to default, in case something is wrong somewhere.
Man it's been ages since I played D6 (prior to the emulation), but I'll try. I don't know how gold drifrs decided but I do "feel" them. Best I can say is that a combination of angle and super fast timing of execution. Basically you need to turn your wheel really really fast while doing BC (which is release accel, tap brake, and press accel again - under half a second). Also I think wider angles also make the gold drift longer if memory serves. Car speed isn't much of a factor I think, I can do them even in low speeds although prefably you want to do them at high speeds without hitting the wall. As for Nagao, I used to be good at it in D6 but having played D7 and D8 afterwards kind made me forget how to play it in D6 because he gameplay of those two games are radically different. But I think the best advice I can give is that countersteering is massively important to stabilize yourself after gold drifts in Nagao. But yes like pretty much other courses, even in Nagao you need to go for as many gold drifts as possible. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 14 2017, 08:56 PM | ||
Is it possible to link drifts like they do in D1GP? Like I am drifting to left but if I step off the gas pedal turn to the right, the car changes direction? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 14 2017, 09:24 PM | ||
| Thanks for the help, I will try again once i had fixed the config files which i think i messed up modifying. Edit:
Issue had been resolved, thanks everybody! Edit2: Interesting detail had been found. When the real racing engine is used, the car's license plate changed to a series 3 plate.  Image size reduced, original size: 831 x 298. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/332501407649497090/335682546459475968/unknown.png to view the image in its original dimension. this possibly implies that the racing engine is above 2000cc in displacement, as 5 series plates were issued to cars below 2000cc while 3 series is issued to cars above 2000cc. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 14 2017, 11:51 PM |
| Nice find. In the same info_csv folder, there is also a DAIHATSU_car_info.txt. But it is blank, so it seems the manufacturer was scrapped during development. If you switch the car IDs in <manufacturer>_car_info.txt, the cars also switch even if the game shows the same model. Like if I swap the ID's for the R32 and the R35, the R32 behaves just like the R35 (it gets 6 gears) even if it looks like a regular R32.  Image size reduced, original size: 2560 x 1080. http://i.imgur.com/ftKLRGA.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. But if an in game character happens to use the R32 in this example (like Nakazato), he will use an actual R35 GT-R.  Image size reduced, original size: 2560 x 1080. http://i.imgur.com/KNdCxJR.png to view the image in its original dimension. Someone travelled to the future, eh? If you set the number at the end of a line to 8 in <manufacturer>_car_info.txt, and try to select said car, it will use the model and textures of the next car. Still need to figure out how to actually enable the Prius, FT86 and the R35 though. Someone had uploaded the modded files to MediaFire, but it has been taken down. If anyone has those files can you please upload them again? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 14 2017, 11:58 PM | ||
aye https://puu.sh/wK4Aw/ab0c991a75.rar credits go to Uchi#5371 from TeknoGods discord and WhiteCharisma Edit: you only need to add the lines of the (car manufacturer)_car_info.txt, the rest of the files is to unlock all colors and full spec |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 15 2017, 12:03 AM |
| All this talk of the racing engine got me thinking. How do you get the real "full tune" versions of other cars anyways? Will changing the values of the manufacturer.txt to 6 be enough? Recently I just got the racing engine for my AE86T by modifying the parameter file to the racing engine number and experienced a massive speed boost, around 8-10 seconds on Akina DH. Prior to that I had a "full tune" AE86T (basically going to Toyota.txt and then set 6 to the AE86T) but it isn't nearly as fast. Granted this "full tuned" AE86T doesn't have a supercharger/turbo/engine, it's just had setting to 6. I played enough D6 and other cross testing AE86T final parts in various IDAS games to know it isn't a placebo effect. The acceleration and speed effect is too huge for it. In the normal version of D6, there isn't supposed to be a huge difference between supercharger, turbocharger and racing engine versions of the AE86T. I know because I experimented with it in the arcades back in the day and so did many others. So does that mean to get the real full time version of other cars, you will also have to equip their "final" parts individually onto their parameter txt files? |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Jul 15 2017, 12:16 AM | ||
The only relevance this could possibly have is that it proves you've still got the hacking wrong. If the game really does use correct plates based on engine displacement, then this is the wrong engine, plain and simple. It should be 55, just like it is in-series. Lo and behold, googling for actual videos of the arcade cab with someone using Takumi's 86 shows you this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEP91YgqdL0 So I'd say ya dun gouf'd. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 12:30 AM | ||
| [QUOTE=Falbere,32 minutes, 41 seconds ago] aye https://puu.sh/wK4Aw/ab0c991a75.rar credits go to Uchi#5371 from TeknoGods discord and WhiteCharisma Edit: you only need to add the lines of the (car manufacturer)_car_info.txt, the rest of the files is to unlock all colors and full spec [/QUOTE] Thanks a lot, really appreciate it. [QUOTE = SonicSP]So does that mean to get the real full time version of other cars, you will also have to equip their "final" parts individually onto their parameter txt files?[/QUOTE] Changing the number to six doesn't give us the true fullspec. Someone earlier said we need to change more parameters and he seems to be right. Look at this video's description.
[QUOTE] Tuning List 機械式LSD タワーバー レーシングブレーキパッド アーシング エアクリーナー 軽量フライホイール 強化ダクト メッシュホース フロントラダーバー レーシングプラグ 強化クラッチ 高性能サスペンション スポーツ触媒 スポーツ触媒所持 ハイリフトカムシャフト ドライバッテリー オイルクーラー リアラダーバー 軽量化（LV１） 強化スタビライザー ポート研磨 ROM書き換え ロールバー EXマニホールド サブコンピューター 強化サスアーム ビッグキャリパー 軽量化（LV２） イグニッションコイル ボアアップ 大容量ラジエター フルコンピューター レーシングキャブレター 大口径ブレーキローター スポット増し パワーSPチューン[/QUOTE] He has added a limited slip differential and a modified ECU. Can someone understand what the others mean and how to add them? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 15 2017, 12:43 AM | ||
I am using RIT_ninja's racing engine value. One possible explanation that I have is that since we are all using GUEST accounts, the license plate is generated based on the modded full-spec car, while the guy playing on the arcade cab had the car upgraded to full-spec through the normal card saving process, which might've meant that the license plate is generated when the car had the normal engine. It is possible that the game uses 5 series plates for racing engine, because the developers might not actually care what displacement the car is. Or I am doing something wrong again, it could happen /shrug. Or the license plate is completely random and it is just pure coincidence that a "3" came out of nowhere, although I do not think this is the case. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 15 2017, 12:53 AM |
| @Falbere I think its completely random because looking back at my recordings my plates were 55 and 59 even though I didn't mod anything. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 15 2017, 01:07 AM | ||
the last line of (car name)_car_parameter_info.txt the comment says that value is 車種特性フラグ, which means car behavior flag RIT_ninja's value for this is 7340135, in binary that is 11100000000000001100111, which are some flags for engine, suspension and the 13k meter. For example, the 4th digit adds superchager. i don't know what the exact flags are, but in theory this value can add everything. zeroyon04 and AsukaXVB from Teknogods discord understands this better, you should ask them Also, when i say series 3 or series 5, only the first digit matters. The 2nd digit have nothing to do with what series the license plate is |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 15 2017, 01:13 AM | ||
It's basically the name of all the internal car upgrade parts (the ones that actually affect performance). From what I can see, they are the names of all the internal upgrade parts you install as you are tuning your car from Normal to Full Spec. For example one of the things listed there is Weight Reduction LV 1 which I remember is one of the parts you click on when you are upgrading your car Specs. The last final upgrade is called Power SP Tune which refers to the final upgrade of the AE86T which the game will give you a choice of turbocharger, supercharger or the AE101 racing engine. I have no idea how to add them in though. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 15 2017, 01:27 AM |
| I dont think the values you edit inside the parameter will effect how it behaves. Only the parts will be changed. I just tested my Trueno with stock parameter values and I still got 2'58"xxx whats really important is in the car makers text file. for my instance the TOYOTA_car_info.txt since im using trueno. Open it and change the number from 2 to 4. or 6 if u want. so far I can't tell a difference between 4 and 6. But I'd rather stay with 4 since the Japs set it like that. thats the only thing u need to change to make it behave differently. as far as I know 8k or 13k tachometer the car will still perform the same full tune as long as the car_info.txt is set to 4. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 15 2017, 01:33 AM |
| indeed, my differences video also shows that the wrong engine (AT) and the correct engine (MT) proves that their acceletation is identical and the only difference comes from my difference in the driving having the wrong tach is more distracting though. |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 15 2017, 01:36 AM | ||
If you are wondering what's the correct value for the racing engine parameter flag number, its 7361559. The 3 series number plate is still wrong. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 15 2017, 01:40 AM | ||
That's what you get when you remove 11100000000000000000000 to the base value, but what is the difference? |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 15 2017, 02:05 AM |
Speaking of the ultimate mess.... Racing engine sound included Image size reduced, original size: 1920 x 1080. http://i.imgur.com/XKrDqI1.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 15 2017, 02:20 AM | ||
It definitely makes a huge difference in my case. My Akina time went from 3'18 to 3'08 and I notice a huge acceleration increase as well. I also made way more mistakes in the 3'08 run than the 3'18 run with much more wall hits. Both times the manufacturer text number was set to 6 too. I know that there isn't supposed to be a difference in the real D6, I did a lot of testing back then too but something in my editing here changed something that wasn't there in the prior 3'18 test. It's not just one run either, I did 5-6 tests on each setting and that one parameter change automatically fasten my times the moment I switched it with average times also following the same correlation. Regardless of what specific edit did cause it, I know that something did change somewhere. And from what I'm seeing being discussed in various places and me discussing, there's so many things about the tuning hacking in the emulator that we are still unsure off. There are various edits in various different txt files that we know will cause an effect of some sort, we're just not fully sure what changes will cause what yet, at least we are in the experimental stages of it. I'm probably going to reset all my txt files and do some further testing in case some things have been inadvertently changed. It's apparently fairly easy to do an accidental effect when editing if one is not careful. |
| Posted by: HashiriyaR32 Jul 15 2017, 02:45 AM | ||
How the heck did you get the Prius speedo? |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 02:46 AM | ||
Damn, if you know, what did you exactly change? I'm stuck at 3'12'' and want to improve my times too! |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 15 2017, 03:03 AM |
| I don't know but I've reverted everything to default, so going to test things one by one again. I might need to learn how to record so I can document the runs. Should be able to easily tell what is what on each run video. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 03:39 AM |
| Akii's racing engine flag improved my performance a lot. I'm sitting at 2'59'' in Iro and 2'54'' at Tsukuba outbound now |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 15 2017, 03:41 AM | ||
| I am starting to think that the extra flags i had changed had made the license plate series 3. edit: i had done some testing
|
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 07:13 AM |
| I think the real difference in these cars can be seen during drifting. I personally felt the 86 grip a bit more using Akii's value compared to the stock value. A total four second difference at Akina for me. But maybe its because the racing engine suits me more though EDIT: Scratch that, tried again there was no difference. It's just me improving. But RIT_Ninja's and Aki's values for the racing engine differ in performance, dunno why |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 15 2017, 07:17 AM | ||
There is very little difference in the real D6 between the three engines. There is a slight difference in shift timing I think but it's very marginal. So the racing engine alone shouldn't be giving a huge boost. I don't know what sorcery is in here in the emulator and our hackings though. All I can tell is that there a few different parts that are affecting my own boosts and I'm working to isolate what is doing what. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 07:35 AM |
| It all depends on the parameter value. Most of the discovery process could be eliminated if we had the card system working. Add a part to the car, find out how it changes the parameter value stored in the card and we'll get an idea what parts affect the value in what way and what don't. Without it, we'll need a lot of patience. Maybe the body kits affect the handling a little bit like they did in the Naomi 2 arcade games? |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 15 2017, 07:55 AM | ||
I'm not sure how RIT_Ninja got his value, I got my value after deducting how the value adds up with the value that my friend got from a Japanese player who figured it out. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 08:07 AM | ||
Maybe that value affects just more than the engine? I went from only one platinum at Myogi to 3 within a few hours. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 15 2017, 08:27 AM |
| I've stopped tampering further with the full tune thingy. I mean for now I think it performs how it should. I still think the car_info.txt is the only thing affects the way it handles compared to the parameters. The only thing to do now is just to wait for the card emulation and maybe further patch dumps for the game if possible lol. Decreasing the analog sensitivity is also a big plus in my opinion. |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 15 2017, 09:45 AM | ||
I got my number from AsukaXVB, which you can do a quick search on Discord to see he was the one who discovered it...I've yet to try 7361559 We need to keep track of which flag changes what...seriously, otherwise we're just blindly guessing |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Jul 15 2017, 04:48 PM | ||
Oh, is that right?  Still waiting for the loader to pull a Demul and get card emulation support. I imagine that, just like Demul, someone just has to make the jump and get data dumps from an actual cab to see how communication to and from the read/write mechanism is done. It's already been what, five years since 6AA? I can wait. |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 15 2017, 07:34 PM | ||
Reaver, the guy who created the loader, got hold of a card reader. So it's a matter of time before it's gonna get implemented. Also, linked play is also in the works as well. Hopefully by end of the year, we'll get a fully functioning ID6AA gameplay. |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 07:53 PM |
| Well, I talked to Reaver in Discord, and he said to expect a new version to launch on Tuesday or Wednesday. Hopefully it will have card system support... [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 15 2017, 08:23 PM |
| so uh, i have this issue where if i flick the wheel left or right to much, the kind of locks up i guess? its really hard to explain. also i have cases where the dumbjvsmanager crashes and my car just constantly turns left. |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 15 2017, 08:25 PM |
| And a functional test menu now as that might be the only way the turn off the store closing settings |
| Posted by: GoodOldGunman Jul 15 2017, 08:45 PM |
| I am more concerned about the card system. I never play at midnight [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 15 2017, 09:19 PM | ||
Yeah I have that turn left problem too. Sometimes the whole input system becomes messed up. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 15 2017, 11:34 PM |
| the closing time works? mine feels fine tho... >_> |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 15 2017, 11:50 PM |
| No, closing time does not work yet. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 16 2017, 03:46 AM | ||
More recording practice... Really struggling with the controller.. sometimes the wheel would lock up and then im screwed.
Also that wheezing sound is a modified supercharger onto the mx-5 lol. Just felt like the ordinary engine sounded plain. Also this is car is set to 6 instead of 4 to see if there is any difference. To be honest I don't feel any difference. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 16 2017, 04:33 AM | ||
I improve a bit But definitely still need some work, I am so noob |
| Posted by: HashiriyaR32 Jul 16 2017, 05:44 AM | ||
Is this related in anyway to the dumb brake cancel/penalty cancel mechanic? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 16 2017, 05:53 AM |
| Try turning on Sto0z driving improvement if you are using a controller, it fixes a lot of the strange issues when using a controller. However if you are using a wheel, turn it off, Sto0z driving improvement is unplayable with a wheel. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 16 2017, 06:32 AM |
| I was using sto0z all along. this bug has only been acting up recently. my previous games were fine btw.. is there a way to change your fullscreen resolution for the game? I really wanna record it at my native resolution.. if you see those black areas around my videos is because the default resolution for the game is lower than my native lol. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 16 2017, 09:24 AM |
| I'm under the impression you need to just use the specific .exe files for the resolution you want? Mine came with a few .exe patch files and I just chose the one that fits my current resolution and I just copy pasted it to the main folder. I mean someone was able to get this to run on a triple screen setup with wider than arcade version view, so I'm pretty sure it's possible. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 16 2017, 10:51 AM |
| If you downloaded the version that came with a bunch of resolution patches, one of the resolution had a 48:9 aspect ratio, which means tat the download came with a resolution for the triple screen setup. |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 16 2017, 11:25 AM |
| for 4k is 5x the renderer.ini i want to use? also yeah locking up kind of sounds like my issue somewhat but more like it randomly turns to the left or right. also does anyone have a way to show the fps ingame or take proper screenshots? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 16 2017, 11:35 AM | ||
surprisingly, steam overlay works fine for both purposes. |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 16 2017, 11:46 AM | ||
how would i set it up? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 16 2017, 04:06 PM | ||
If you already have Steam installed, just go to the bottom left hand corner of your Steam and click "add a game", next up select DumbJVSManager. You can turn on FPS counter and check the screenshot button in your Steam settings. |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 16 2017, 05:46 PM | ||
thanks, had the dump file set as the thing for the overlay, is there a way to stop the program from crashing and causing me to lose control? |
| Posted by: gns64 Jul 17 2017, 11:17 AM |
| How is cornering supposed to work in this game? I brake at v3 brake points and I go from 150+ km/h to 80 almost instantly... I'm not sure if that's an emulator problem or the fact that I never got the chance to play v6. I'm using a Driving Force GT wheel, I'm using the settings from the post on first page. Any advice? |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 17 2017, 11:22 AM |
| Throw your ver. 3 stuff out of the window, game have nothing to do with it, simple as that. Read the previous posts in this topic, some users had shared tips and tricks to getting better at this game. |
| Posted by: gns64 Jul 17 2017, 11:33 AM |
| Understood, I guess my question is how should I be approaching corners? braking as I turn in seems to slow the car down way too much edit: I guess to be more specific, I watch TA vids and see people only lose ~10km/h through corners on Akina and keep their speed. I know theres brake canceling, is it similar to V4? Is it normal for brakes to be so powerful? |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 17 2017, 12:08 PM | ||
Yes brakes do cut down your speed alot so in mosts cases you'd be tapping the brake only. only on some courses you'd be tapping it slightly longer for tighter hairpins. you could say the foot work is quite similar to v4 but you need proper steering work to get GOLD drifts too. |
| Posted by: AllyTheFox Jul 17 2017, 01:11 PM |
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zaZxsdLzF8 Im wayyyy more of a noob xD |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 17 2017, 01:45 PM |
| Just finished some practice and I switched to the Xinput instead of Direct input. I can say it really helps me alot more as its less sensitive and more easy to handle. after switching the Xinput I can say that I was able to get a 141km exit on the first corner of Akina DH. But of course I still fucked up most of the time so my times didnt really improve just got abit more consistent now. Though it feels smoother and easier to handle but there are sometimes where I feel like my wheels lock to one side again eventhough I turned slightly just like Direct Input. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 17 2017, 02:02 PM |
| Ahh times like this is where I miss the accel and brake HUD meters from D7 and D8. We can see the footwork inputs whenever we watch a video run. I guess I'm too used to them after having them around for four plus years. |
| Posted by: AllyTheFox Jul 17 2017, 02:23 PM | ||
Ill add it in for future videos for you |
| Posted by: gns64 Jul 17 2017, 02:30 PM |
| Yeah, I feel the same problem with DInput where in consecutive hairpins, after getting opposite lock on the first one I have to brake excessively to fix the understeer into the next one. Same thing happens in V2/V3 when you do TST/eraser into a hairpin then try to turn the other way right after. I'm not sure if this is an emulation problem because like I said I never got the chance to actually play V6, I wish XInput would recognize my wheel so I could see if it made a difference. |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 17 2017, 02:35 PM |
| should i throw out all the stuff i know from extreme stage? i already noticed alot of turns i have brake at now and im still getting used to drifting mechanic |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jul 17 2017, 07:46 PM | ||
Still trying hard ~ sometime the brake cancel doesnt trigger the gold drift not sure why~ not every brake cancel can get it to drift~ using g27~ but i tried on dualshock 3 it was immediate trigger~ |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 17 2017, 08:09 PM | ||
Most of it yes, except penalty cancel. You'll need that to initiate drifts. Basically each new IDAS game starting with 4 wil revamp the physics after each version, so we would have to learn how to play it again. |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 18 2017, 08:45 AM | ||
would be nice if arcade stage 5 got dumped too, from the videos i watched it had he best eurobeat soundtrack plus i wanted to try out physics that game had too |
| Posted by: Akii Jul 18 2017, 04:04 PM | ||
IIRC, it got dumped but no one has made a Lindbergh emulator which potentially only runs on Linux even if one was made |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 19 2017, 05:25 PM | ||
Since TeknoParrot is actually a loader and not an emulator... In the past, some emulators, such as PCSX2 (PS2 Emulator), virtual machines the entire operating system the console/arcade board holds. If anybody was to start a project to bring Lindbergh games to the PC, I can see that the emulation could either be done with virtualization of a linux environment inside your Windows PC, or as a form of a loader (similar to TeknoParrot) that limits to Windows 10 and above, which can receive the ability to run the linux subsystem inside Windows itself. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 20 2017, 11:13 AM | ||
| Ah my good old friend Carpel Tunnel Syndrome from D6 days, welcome back. I don't know where you were in D7 and D8, but you can't resist returning for anything D6 related can you? It's gonna be just like the old days, filled with numbness and me regretting playing too much. Except this time without the money factor.
I just remembered it perhaps as I was relearning this game. But I would just do a quick BC early on before the corner, quick turn and then counter-turn the wheel back to original position then slide through the corner. It's mostly about initiation it early. Make sure the wheel turn and your footwork is initiated at the same time, That's key to initiating it, even the first minor corner one second after you start Nagao DH for example is Gold Driftable. Also stay in 2-3rd gear for the sharp continues turns since those are the optimal speeds for taking advantage of the gold drift acceleration. You should be able to gold drift most if not all of the Nagao ones. Controlling the drift to not crash is another matter though, but getting the good angles does require timing the start of the drift well. |
| Posted by: pkemr4 Jul 21 2017, 08:01 AM |
| has anyone made a file that has every racers tuned car parts? i mainly want the S15 to look like hiroya's S15 in 5th stage |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 22 2017, 09:14 AM | ||||
Do it yourself. There is a clear video demonstrating how it works. |
| Posted by: euroshift Jul 23 2017, 02:36 AM | ||
My best Akina DH run so far..Using Dualshock 4 controller.. |
| Posted by: jon360x Jul 25 2017, 10:00 PM | ||
Recording of Tsukuba OB TA with Dualshock 4 controller |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 25 2017, 11:43 PM |
| Speaking of which, maybe it's a good idea to have a D6 Post Your Video thread? Since people are starting to post their personal runs and all and it's much easier to record on a PC than an arcade machine. Even I started recording my runs lately - though there's some kinks I need to work out in the hotkeys cos sometimes it doesn't activate when I press the button. Once I start not posting the wrong runs to the wrong videos, maybe I'll start posting mine too. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 28 2017, 04:44 AM | ||
Nagao DH using G25 wheel. I also inserted the control input for pedals and wheel into the video at the bottom right. Not as beautiful as the ones in D7/D8 but it works. Also available in 60FPS I use the clutch pedal as my brake, since the brake pedal is too close to the accelerator for my liking. That's why I have to use that thing as my brake indicator. |
| Posted by: Falbere Jul 28 2017, 09:51 AM | ||
That overlay had been super helpful. It made me realize how shit my BC is, I step on the brakes way too long and relies too much on the brakes to turn my car instead of using the steering like i should be. The timing for the BC is also a lot earlier than I thought it was. Thanks for the tutorial/video. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 28 2017, 11:15 AM |
No problem, I'm just glad someone found it useful.  Trying to get back to the 2'47 or so I was able to do back in the day. Always liked input overlays in gameplay videos, so nice to finally figure out a way to put mine in my videos, at least for D6 PC. ====•• Trying to find a 3rd party program that can show the steering and pedal output better. Right now I'm just using the default Windows Game Controllers. Works well enough but if I can make the clutch output look like the accel meter, that would be better. Maybe even show the real wheelrotation just like real life too, since I'm using 540 degrees end to end setting but the output translates and displays this as 180 meters end to end (accurate from a percentage and input point of view, just that the current display makes it like I'm doing a lot less work steering the wheel that I actually am). Tried to find one online but no dice so far. |
| Posted by: gns64 Jul 28 2017, 12:23 PM |
| Mind posting your logitech game profiler settings? I'm using the one from the post on the first page for my driving force GT and it doesn't feel quite right [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jul 28 2017, 10:54 PM | ||
  I) Biggest thing I can think off is to try adjusting your Degrees of Rotation. Making it low allows you to turn wheel easier end to end but at the cost of accuracy. Sometimes you really want to turn only to a certain angle without turning too much. This can cause oversteer to happen easier if you're not careful. On the other hand, making it too high would means that you have to turn the wheel more. This allows you to do more fine turnings but means that you need to turn more to wheel lock and reach maximum turn. This is more tiring. You'll of course need to experiment and see what settings suits you more. You don't have to pick a nice number, you can just adjust it bit by bit and see what you're comfortable within. Also keep in mind that not all rotation settings are ideal for all courses. Some courses require you to wheel lock/full turn a lot, while others you just need to turn a little. You might also want to play around with the Sensitivity settings in the Steering Wheel Axis Properties section. I just kept it at default for now since it backfired on me greatly last time I tried it. The best part the Logitech Profiler is that it's not tied to the loader, so you can adjust it without closing the loader and going through the long initialization phase again. Just keep it open while you play then press CTRL+ALT to cycle to it quickly. This means you can just keep adjusting it again and again till you find one that you like. I just chose 540 because it's the same as the arcade, I'm okay with it so far. I could optimize it further for each course but I'm too lazy to change it every time. ========= II) Also might want to weaken your centering strength if you have it high. I set it to 20% because it's not strong but also helps push the wheel to the center a little bit when I want to counter. I don't think it's "that" much different from 0 though. The "real" Force Feedback of D6 is actually not available in the loader for now, it's actually much more complex than the basic Logitech centering force that you can setup. The force feedback does help you feel the road better form what I recall. =========== III) Also don't play on Teknoparrot 0.7 if you are still there, the wheel is bad at that version. 0.71 improves wheel controls massively, while the latest 0.8 improves it a little bit further than 0.71. IV) Make sure Full Axis and Reverse Axis are both ticked for brake and accel in the DumbJVSManager settings. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 1 2017, 02:33 AM | ||
Tsubaki Line DH AE86T 3'05"872 I shrunk the brake overlay and aligned it with the wheel and accel one better. Also made the wheel overlay better so it can be seen better. |
| Posted by: gns64 Aug 2 2017, 01:41 PM |
| Thanks for the good info, when I get back home i'll try it out! Nice vids also, it's really helpful to see your footwork. I actualy got the chance to play ID6 this past weekend at Milpitas golfland, one wheel was obviously messed up, the other screen had terrible burn-in. The machines were empty, and I only saw 1 person on the 4 MT5 cabinets my entire time there, it's quite depressing to see my childhood arcade like that. It's hard to even call it an arcade anymore, it was like all ticket redemption games now. But anyways now that I have the arcade experience to compare and contrast with I think I'll have a lot more fun with the emulator [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 2 2017, 11:16 PM | ||
| No problem, glad you found it helpful. And yeah I get sad when seeing arcades being run down. Arcades are having problems over here too because of some issues. Anyways I updated Tsukuba Line DH that's slightly faster than the last one. Thinking of what to do to increase it further. Need to work on the first corner I think for higher max speed going into CP2.
|
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Aug 5 2017, 01:29 AM |
| My game seems to be running TOO fast (maybe need a frame limiter)? Anyone know a fix? |
| Posted by: jon360x Aug 5 2017, 04:40 AM | ||
could it be your monitor's refresh rate? if you're using a 144hz monitor you'd need to set it to 60Hz. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 5 2017, 07:54 AM | ||
| As Jon said, most likely your monitor, set it to 60Hz. Some other games like the PC version of Vanquish, also suffer from similar issues. Their systems are tied to their framerates. In the case of D6, the original hardware was designed to run the game at locked 60 FPS, they likely linked the physics to it as well. ========= Video I made for my entry of the Akagi UH TA Event on the Discord community.
|
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Aug 5 2017, 10:13 PM |
| Hey guys check out my (Trying to trouble shoot speed issue with my 60Hz) EDIT: Forced VSYNC on exe  Image size reduced, original size: 1920 x 1080. http://i.imgur.com/A6lp4eV.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 6 2017, 07:16 AM | ||
| Has anyone experienced an issue where the game launches but the aspect ratio doesn't change and it just quits right after it goes black for a few seconds? I reinstalled Windows on my laptop (which has an NVidia card) and it worked fine before but even with the dependencies installed (com0com and .Net framework) it keeps doing it. This guy's video pretty much sums up what I'm experiencing:
|
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 6 2017, 09:06 AM |
| - Have you tried reinstalling the exact same Nvidia graphics driver as before when it worked? Sometimes different drivers have given different effects on the game. - Might also want to check whether you have Teknoparrot set to "Run as Administrator". Most like you already are based on the "Resuming Game" command line screen seen but still one thing to double check just in case. - Check your anti-virus or firewall settings and see whether it is preventing the exe from running. Mine is configured to pretty much block all exe that I did not pre-approve and prompt me each time. - Also double check that the .exe file you're using matches your current screen resolution. Or rather since they all look the same, try to get the patch exe files with all the different file resolutions and copy paste the exe file that matches your resolution. ============ These are the only ones I can think off for the moment, haven't encountered it myself before. You might also want to consider going to the Teknogods Discord channel and ask somebody there. |
| Posted by: vegita8888 Aug 7 2017, 02:31 AM |
| Hi all. It took some time but I finally was able to get my controller working. Coming from older Initial D games is tough. I was pretty good at 2 and 3 and ok at Extreme Stage even though I hated it. 6AA does feel better but I can't get the BC mechanic down for fast in fast out drifts. I guess it just takes practice and knowing where to initiate the drift? Anyway I know the card system is not emulated yet but I've seen people playing more than the first race in story mode. How are people doing that? I always get a game over screen. Hey SonicSP would you please do a run of tsuchisaka for me? It was my favorite course in ver3 and would love to try and get good at it in this game but it's tough. If you don't have access to it already all you have to do is go to your TeknoParrot_0.8\Initial D 6AA\data\COURSE\COURSE_DATA.ini. Open it in whatever text editor you use and under course order swap akina lake and Tsuchisaka. This will add Tsuchi to the last slot in time attack and make akina lake unplayable. Thanks in advance. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 7 2017, 02:45 AM |
| If you play between 12AM and around 9AM, the game won't let you play more than one game before forcing you back to Title screen. If you happen to be playing at those hours, you will need to change the PC time to bypass this. This is due to an arcade midnight setting that we can't change yet and will be fixed in the next update. Also, to make sure you can BC well, make sure your accel and pedal axis on your controllers are not combined. I think you will need to use Direct Input or something as opposed to XInput. Might need the controller users to tell you confirm the details cos I only used controller for a short while. ====== As for Tsuchisaka run, I might be able to do one later (I'm a bit busy lately), however it's important to note that the "locked" maps physics are not constant in this version we are playing. From what I read, the gearing and golden drift point will act differently based on the course you "replaced" with the locked courses. If I were to replace Lake Akina with Tsuchisaka for example, the Tsuchisaka I play with be played with Lake Akina gearing and drift points. But if somebody else were to replace - for example, Myogi with Tsuchisaka-, they will get a Tsuchisaka with Myogi's physics which will be very very different from Tsuchisaka with Lake Akina's physics. This is in contrast with all of the normal unlocked courses of the game, which have their own gearing, max speed and gold drift physics. When these locked courses were unlocked in later versions of D6, they were given their own proper gearing and drift points. |
| Posted by: vegita8888 Aug 7 2017, 03:02 AM |
| Good to know. I'll just stick to the normal unlocked courses for now then. Guess I need to get a wheel. I'll play Tsuchi for fun but there is no point in learning it if it's going to be different later. What course do you recommend for new players? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 7 2017, 03:08 AM |
| As for new player courses, I recommend Usui and Akina DH. Just practice on achieving the gold drifts without hitting the walls, because the gold drifts give you a speed boost right afterwards. The trick is total brake very very quickly then after the initiation, controller the car with the steer and accel. Also enable Stooz driving improvement if haven't. That will help you steer the car better on a controller. |
| Posted by: agunimon Aug 7 2017, 03:44 AM |
Can some post a guide to unlock all the hidden course? I tried but failed  |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 9 2017, 01:52 PM | ||
| Does anybody know what is the name of the music files of the car selection menu, course selection menu and post race menu? I'm thinking of adjusting their volumes and they are a gazillion sound files. ======== Nagao UH AE86T - 3'01"475
|
| Posted by: thestreetzking Aug 14 2017, 04:12 PM |
| hey guys, please disregard my stupidity if this has been answered. I got this up and running, currently using a 360 controller but I have a t500 ill use once this pc is back on my racing rig. My game is running at insane speeds. even though the timer seems correct? and When I use the interior view it shows me like im looking through the back window. For the frame rate issue I had to throttle it down to 60 with MSI Afterburner, game runs great. ' But on my s13 only I cant use interior view, it shows the back of the car. AND My mini map does not work at all |
| Posted by: Takeshi Nakazato Aug 14 2017, 05:31 PM |
| I just discovered this, glad to playing ID again after so long |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 14 2017, 06:10 PM | ||
Are you using an AMD graphics card? AMD cards have compatibility issues with this game, including the minimap issue. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 14 2017, 06:12 PM |
| Okay, I got the game working again now but I cannot get gold drifts at all with a 360 controller (using XInput). I have the stooz setting on, but I don't know how to get more than a flashing drift on a corner. I tap the brakes and turn in, the car starts sliding and I hit the gas but I've never gotten a single gold. One of the guides says "pump the gas" and sometimes when I do that it gives me gold but I know that can't be it. I'm confused. Is it because the stock cars can't do it? Do I need to have a tuned up car for that? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 14 2017, 06:21 PM |
| The stock cars can do it but a lot harder in most cases I believe. I'm not a controller user anymore but I'm under the impression that you need to use Direct Input, because XInput combined the twin trigger axels into one axis. Might need someone who uses a controller input to comment though. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 14 2017, 06:28 PM |
| I might try DirectInput because I did actually get gold drifts sometimes with it by pumping the gas. It seems really hard to do brake cancel with a controller though, I hope someone who plays on pad can chime in on how to do it. I've seen that one Akina video earlier in the thread and the controller cam seems to show the player turning, letting off the gas, tapping brake and then going back on the gas? It's just such a huge difference from version 3 physics that I'm thrown off bad. I'm also probably turning wrong because I keep trying to counter steer and I don't think I should be. [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: thestreetzking Aug 15 2017, 01:50 AM | ||
Yeah, I did use the AMD fix but I'm guessing this is still why I have issues. I don't understand why the s13 interior does not work, every interior camera should be the same right? [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 15 2017, 05:50 AM |
| You might want to try different versions of IdLogger (the AMD fix I believe) and see whether it helps. The original game PC runs on a Nvidia card, hence why this game has trouble running on AMD cards. I don't know about the interior view thing but the minimap issue has no fix yet. I think they're working on it though. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 15 2017, 06:09 AM |
| I guess I'll have to mess with tuning to see if that can work for gold drifts. Hopefully card support comes around soon so I don't have to deal with the memory address stuff. Also for some reason the view change button also acts as a select button for me on my pad? It makes it hard to pick the right song. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 15 2017, 11:30 AM |
| That's a bug that sometimes happen. You might want to delete your current settings xml file and the make a new one. After deleting the xml file, just go to Teknoparrot settings, do what you usually do, then click on Save Settings and a new xml will be generated. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 16 2017, 12:36 PM | ||
Akina DH - AE86T - 2'56"149
I like this Wheeler program. Much nicer overlay. Full rotation settings set at 540 degrees, IE 270 on each side. Full left turn 3 o'clock, full right turn 9 o'clock. |
| Posted by: Falbere Aug 18 2017, 09:49 PM | ||
|
| Posted by: vegita8888 Aug 19 2017, 01:06 AM |
| Thanks so much for the fix Falbere. I primarily play at night so this helped me alot. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 22 2017, 04:35 PM |
| I figured out why I couldn't get gold drifts...I kept forgetting to shift down. Oops. |
| Posted by: gns64 Aug 22 2017, 09:04 PM | ||
select01, select02, result01 and result02 which isn't used as far as I can tell. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 29 2017, 01:33 PM |
| TeknoParrot has a new version out, stability fixes for 6AA are among the changes. Gonna try it now. Edit: Just a note, if you want to add the game's path you use DumbJvsSettings.exe now for it, not the main settings in DumbJvsManager. Edit 2: Okay, don't try 1.0 yet guys, the game flat out just won't work because the dreaded card reader error comes up...  Image size reduced, original size: 672 x 257. http://i.imgur.com/GMgONZI.png to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 29 2017, 05:28 PM |
| https://www.dropbox.com/s/vpofyt9orzhcc1g/E2PROM.bin?dl=0 Download and put this in your main folder and it should solve the card reader error. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 29 2017, 06:13 PM |
| Will do. I guess this is the beginning of the card reader emulation and someone made a mistake in the code? [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 29 2017, 09:23 PM |
| Possibly, but it's noted that there is a lot of improvements in the JVS emulation in general. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 30 2017, 06:09 AM |
| The .bin fixed it, thanks. I actually can do gold drifts now too! My mistake was that when I did BC I didn't keep turning the car in the same direction...got gold on most of the corners in Lake Akina just now. It's such an interesting system when you master it and now I don't think I can go back to V3 physics... |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 30 2017, 07:07 AM |
| You probabaly could with some mental readjustment. After D7 and D8 I thought I wouldn't be able to go back to D6 either, but I was able to. D7 I argue is similar to D3, not totally of course (there's no shift points or eraser) just the most out of all of the post-D3 entries. They even put in a lot of D3 cues in that game including a remixed post race song and some of the race tracks. And there's no Gold Drift boosts outside of online - and even then it's really really hard to get one. |
| Posted by: Akii Aug 30 2017, 10:14 AM |
| Hmmm, I can't get the game to load. Seems to crash everytime I start it |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 30 2017, 10:55 AM |
| Yeah, some people are having that problem. Are you using a vanilla ROM? I used a clean one from the RAR without my mods just to try out for stability. Aside from the extra BIN file, resolution exe and ini, the only change I made is to edit the manufacturer car info number to 6 to get full tune. But I only had time to play one race with it, so it's not like a complete test. It still crashes at the end of the opening video though as usual. You might also want to try idlogger and see whether that helps even if you didn't need it before. That method has worked for at least one user I know. And woohoo 1900th post! |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Aug 30 2017, 11:44 AM |
| If it's crashing, it might be antivirus detecting ParrotLoader.exe and closing it/deleting the exe. I managed to add it to exceptions (and restore the false positive files...it was detecting 2 files as trojans) and that solved it. Unless this is something entirely different. If you're using a modified exe for different resolutions I heard 1.0 is kinda sketchy with those via Reddit because that version actually can handle that via its own config.ini file now. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 30 2017, 05:21 PM |
| Another thing to remember is to make sure DumbJVSManager has Administrators Rights. It's important but one of those things that can be overlooked especially when your changing to the new dumbmanager exe. Just gave it as a last resort advice to someone with 1.0 and it freaking worked. So make sure it's enabled first to minimize potential problems. That way, we can also rule it out as an issue during troubleshooting. |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Aug 30 2017, 05:48 PM |
| Always keep a clean copy of the entire ID6AA folder in case stuff breaks due to editing config files. So you should have one original ID6AA folder and one for modification. |
| Posted by: Akii Aug 30 2017, 06:30 PM |
| I tried with a clean copy of ID6 and TeknoParrot Tried to run it with admin rights Excluded it from the antivirus too Still crashed. I'll go back and retry again though. Might have missed a few steps along the way |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 30 2017, 09:54 PM |
| Have you tried idlogger yet? It worked for at least one person I know and he never needed it for 0.8. My computer seems to be fine without it in 1.0 but I only did like one Akina test yesterday...might need more tests to see how stable it is. |
| Posted by: Akii Aug 30 2017, 11:43 PM |
| First time I've heard of idlogger. What is it? And what does it do? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 31 2017, 12:42 AM |
| I already answered in the PM, but just a refresher for everyone and new players just in case. IDlogger is a mod/file made by Avail that allows AMD cards to play the game, though they still won't get a minimap. It also fixes minimap glitches on some Nvidia cards (though I think this is only with IDLogger 0.2??). Some Nvidia users have this problem where a huge minimap appears at the center of the screen, making the game practically unplayable. Not sure what causes the glitches on Nvidia, two people can have the same card model and one of them might have it while the other may not. I have encountered this example before though I was the PC that was "okay". Could be drivers, or could be something else with the PCs. It also apparently can fix some issues with Teknoparrot 1.0. |
| Posted by: 1life1love Sep 3 2017, 11:00 AM |
| to anybody just using a keyboard, how do you get the keyboard buttons to work? |
| Posted by: pinkimo Sep 7 2017, 05:12 AM |
| It's time to vote for the card support https://twitter.com/ReaverTeknoGods/status/905562116802973697 |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Sep 7 2017, 06:00 AM |
| Voted, because I won't bother checking it out until I don't have to randomly hack around in the files just to play. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 16 2017, 09:02 AM | ||
Irozahaka DH - AE86T - 2'53'841
|
| Posted by: zifutan Sep 23 2017, 08:03 AM |
| Initial D 6AA Teknoparrot Game works flawlessly, but during the second story race against Takumi the time dosent extend on 2nd lap and I hence lose due to time up, is there a fix for this? Thanks in advance XD |
| Posted by: awddrifter Sep 28 2017, 07:09 AM | ||
FYI, Card support is now in the latest version of Teknoparrot!  ...but it is for Patreon backers only at the moment. It will probably be available for non-Patreon in 2 weeks or so. Here is a quick video of me testing out the new card function (I'm a Patreon backer):
^ Sorry, I've never experienced that error with the 2nd race... as you see in the video above, I beat the 2nd race with no issues. I guess just wait for the new version? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 28 2017, 11:02 AM | ||
| I was hoping to wait until the public version is out before posting it on this forum but since the cat is out of the bag....... This is me playing TA using the beta test card:
I've since then made my own card though, and will be using it from now on. |
| Posted by: krs73 Oct 1 2017, 10:27 AM |
| Hello there, i got this running very well, but i still think steering is of. if i use the stooz fix (you can check this in settings menu), than i need to put zero deadzone on the dfgt, but the wheel reacts very strange, deadzone by teknoparrot seems too big or it reacts too slow, like that it's hard to keep the car straight. if i uncheck stooz fix, i put a 10% deadzone in the logitech profiler and 360 degrees of turning, it feels better, but still it takes very small wheel movement to turn the car fully. Anyone has good settings or a way to get more acurate steering. im using 1.02. simply awesome to play this, since there is no arcade in my place having any IDAS... |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 1 2017, 11:18 AM |
| Stooz is meant for increased accuracy on gamepads. If you are using a wheel, it is highly recommended that you turn it off. This is why Stooz has such a huge deadzone, because on an analog stick the huge deadzone is needed to steer with with more stability. I use 540 degrees full rotation (which is 270 degrees on each side), which is the same setting used in the real arcade. I recommend at the very least starting here and if you find it too wide, narrow it bit by bit until you find something you're comfortable with. |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Oct 2 2017, 04:02 AM | ||
Is the beta card stuck with the name WEEBS? |
| Posted by: krs73 Oct 2 2017, 09:56 AM |
| @sonicSP, thanks for your help, i will try 540 degrees. right now i'm using 360 degrees, but it feels like the first 30 degrees or so have a effect, so a slight movement moves the car a lot, even though i have 10% deadzone, which seems to be plenty. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 3 2017, 10:48 PM | ||||
| Me playing Happo on Peaky. Happogahara OB AE86T 2'43"796
Pretty fun IMO, Happo on Balanced is more annoying to play. You don't need to BC as much to get the gold drifts Too bad Peaky grip setting is only useful on Myogi and Happogara though. Everywhere else it oversteers like crazy.
The beta card, yes. However I have since been able to make my own card which I chose my own name. |
| Posted by: idforumsBMN Oct 11 2017, 05:47 PM |
| I hope they release a fully compatible patch for amd someday, with cutscenes and the minimap. I want to play this so bad. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 12 2017, 02:17 PM |
| Teknoparrot 1.04 is out, now with card support for everyone! To open card reader: Open cmd.exe (press Windows and R then type cmd.exe) Then in the command prompt type in: cd "your directory for ParrotLoader.exe" Parrotloader.exe "your main D6 dump directory\picodaemon.exe" Press Enter, and some texts will show up and keep scrolling as the card reader keeps working. Activate the game like usual. (Notes: Your Parrotlaoder.exe should be located inside your Teknoparrot 1.04 folder. Picodaemon should be in tbe main folder of your D6 dump, same place as your main D6 exe.) You also will have to do this every time you want to activate the card reader but it can be sped up. Just take the command text above you just typed, copy paste the command text into notepad, then change the extension from .txt to .bat. Now all you need to do is double click it to open the card reader. Someone made a custom bat file that makes it easier to locate the directories but I don't know where it is and don't use it personally so someone else will have to post it. Also make sure that: - Closing time is to to ALL TIME in Test Menu. - Card Reader is enabled in Test Menu. - For some computers or setups like mine, admin rights are needed for Parrotloader.exe to work so make sure it has it. |
| Posted by: gns64 Oct 13 2017, 10:21 AM |
| Thanks for the guide! now that there's a sense of progression and force quit I'm gonna start playing again |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 13 2017, 11:58 AM | ||||||
| Multiplayer is out for Patreon version. Me and Jon360 spent some time trying to make it work and finally got some matches going. Not really that easy to setup but it works. We used Hamachi to connect but you also need to edit the config files for the game with the specific addresses and make sure each machine is set up as A1 and A2 respectively. Credit to jon360 for doing most of IP configuration work. These videos are from my perspective, I'll let him post his later.
(Before anybody asks, I know it's not technically LAN but the game "thinks" it's running like that so I'm going with it. This is not D6's official Online Mode afterall which came with own set of lag compensation and gameplay tweaks. LAN was just easier to type than In-Store lol), |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Oct 13 2017, 01:47 PM |
| Cool to see multiplayer working! I tried some runs on the card reader build today and it's pretty great finally being able to tune up the car without memory editing. Had one incident of the game crashing before the Kai race and I had to redo all of chapter 2 again, but I just make sure now to quit out of story mode every so often so the game can save the card data. Will probably have to drop by the Discord when the MP build goes public. Looks like the latency is alright in that too. |
| Posted by: jon360x Oct 13 2017, 07:25 PM | ||||||
| lol. thanks to SonicSP for playing with me. Both of us haven't played battle in like. Ages. If sonic's last online was D8. my last online was D7. so it was really nostalgic and nice to see another player in the game. Even gets me hyped up again for the game. Here are my compilation videos.
PS : I forgot to turn on St0oz deadzone fix in the first two matches so my car keeps turning slightly to the left LOL. On a side note. The latency in this game is okay because me and SonicSP live in the same Country and state. We're probably like 20-40km far apart with each other LOL. I don't think it would work so well if you were to play with someone from a different timezone. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 13 2017, 10:26 PM | ||
It helps that Jon and I live in the same state of the same country - we're maybe 20-30 minutes of driving distance I believe. I don't know where the specific Hamachi server we were connected was based, but if it's not far that would explain the low latency. It's a good start though. We tried Tunngle at first and while we connected (blue icon was up so the D6 machine could detect the other D6 machine), we really couldn't get a match. Then tried Hamachi in a whim and it frickin worked. Still not sure of the reason. It's so damn awesome to finally do this! The IP setting up might take some time to get used to though and is time consuming but hey it works. Baby steps and all that. |
| Posted by: chinad34th Oct 15 2017, 07:58 AM | ||
Hey! I tried to do exactly what you said, but I keep getting this: "Please use the following format: ParrotLoader.exe c:\games\id6\id6.exe <param>" Everything is set up to run as an administrator, but it doesn't work. Do anyone know how to fix this? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 15 2017, 09:38 AM |
| Remember to use " " when writing the directory names, place one " before and another one after. That's important. For the second line, don't forget to add \picodaemon.exe before closing with a ". |
| Posted by: lemon55699 Oct 15 2017, 10:18 AM |
| Im having problem with my controller. it keeps going left whenever i start my game. Im using cliptec rzg330. |
| Posted by: Falbere Oct 15 2017, 03:18 PM | ||
So I thought this was a good idea...
|
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Oct 15 2017, 04:20 PM | ||
This was a VERY good idea. I will need this for nostalgia purposes once the loader is far enough along to not be annoying to use.  |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Oct 15 2017, 08:34 PM | ||
Does anyone know where the card data is saved to? I'm curious about examining the card file to see if the values can be changed |
| Posted by: Falbere Oct 15 2017, 10:56 PM |
| The card is saved in "%appdata%\TeknoParrot". It is a file called "SBUU_card.bin". |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 15 2017, 10:57 PM |
| Your Username Appdata Roaming Teknoparrot The card file is SBUU_card.bin And yes it can be edited using a hex editor. You can hack your number plate and a few other things. |
| Posted by: hoxz Oct 16 2017, 03:02 AM |
| hey, i want to play story mode normally just like the first time i play at the arcade machine, but i think i've downloaded edited dump files. how to make it default again? i've changed all (carmaker)_car_info.txt value to 0, is there any other files need to be edited? |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Oct 16 2017, 04:02 AM | ||
Have you tried using the hex editor to get more tuning points? Really want to drive full tuned cars but don't really have grind for points |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 16 2017, 04:21 AM | ||
| You don't need the hex editor to get a lot of tuning points, all you need to do is go to GAME_SETTINGS.ini within the GAME folder and edit what you get per race. Just go Point Assignment section of the file and edit the numbers there. Right here, https://idforums.net/index.php?showtopic=48840&view=findpost&p=1346064.
You need to change them to 2, not 0. Anyways for simplicity, just download https://mega.nz/#!O0VjHJyI!t26zJXWqWx1wVPoL2eAMgMbv-Gb7-_svUHlri6OGLgA and copy paste it and overwrite your entire info_csv folder within CAR folder. It would return everything car related to default. It's just the default car txt files. |
| Posted by: hoxz Oct 16 2017, 06:50 AM | ||
Thank you for the files, it helped so much! |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Oct 16 2017, 09:45 AM | ||
Thanks SonicSP, this saves a lot of time Though I did find this guy showing how it can be done through hex editor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_roEzj1DmM |
| Posted by: DaRushMan Oct 16 2017, 11:12 AM |
| Does anyone know how I can make a new card? Name entry was acting weird and wouldn't let enter the characters I wanted. I tried deleting the SBUU_card.bin hoping it would make a new one, but it just said there were no cards in the machine when I loaded the game back up. EDIT: I deleted the TeknoParrot folder in appdata and it made a new one. |
| Posted by: Eternal Firebird Oct 16 2017, 12:00 PM | ||
That's pretty cool, I could imagine Rin Hojo having Man of Lan Evo V's theme song. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Oct 16 2017, 03:02 PM | ||
Did you touch the analog stick while the game was initializing? Doing that causes it to pull left or right, you cannot touch it at all while everything loads. |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Oct 18 2017, 03:49 AM |
| long time no see guys~ its been awhile till i played id6aa again. i notice the card reader is now operational and multiplayer is coming. i fiddle with alot of thing after teknoparrot 1.04 but then i saw some of the member said we can hex edit the bin file of the card. which leave me one absolute question , which address changes the player level? i had a lv99 file and a self created file but i had absolute no idea where is the address of player level. anyone willing to shed some light? im just too lazy to grind in id6 becuz gt sport is released. Thanks in advance |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Oct 18 2017, 11:37 AM |
| If you're too lazy to grind, why not just make the game grant you more experience per battle rather than running around hex editing the card? |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Oct 18 2017, 03:45 PM | ||
That i tried~ only able to make the game grant a maximum of 99999 tuning point only. i had no idea where is the code of the mileage point/driver level point . |
| Posted by: Randy Oct 20 2017, 03:14 AM |
| For some reason I can't get it to work as I am stuck in the "cg.dll missing"error. I am using a GTX 680 so I should be fine, right? I mean if it's supposed to support only NVidia graphics, then I shouldn't be having this problem, no? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 20 2017, 04:31 AM |
| Check your PM. If that doesn't work then ummm.......ask Aki |
| Posted by: Randy Oct 20 2017, 04:46 AM |
| Okay, I am in now. Just need to deal with Error 5108. I am also trying to figure out how to map actual keys in the keyboard since i don't use a bloody steering wheel to game. (I don't have one and I certainly won't spend a load of cash to buy one just to play this game.)  Serious note: How come no one here show any guide on how to map keyboard bindings? Do all people really just get this emulator and just build a guide with the steering wheel in mind and no keyboard support at all for a supposedly-PC-support game? Showing us how to keybind keyboard for this game ought to be the first thing, no? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 20 2017, 06:11 AM |
| You'll need to download a keyboard mapper like vjoy if you want to play with a keyboard with D6 because the steering and pedals need axis input as opposed to digital. Most players usually use a gamepad. |
| Posted by: Randy Oct 20 2017, 06:21 AM |
| Thanks for telling me. Though I heard VJoy is a beeyatch to work as it has this axis feedback thing that needs mapping before applying it unless I am misinformed...but I'll try and work my way through it. Also...can't get the card-reader to work still. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 20 2017, 06:43 AM |
| Have you enabled admin rights on ParrotLoader.exe? That helped me out once. |
| Posted by: Randy Oct 20 2017, 06:47 AM |
| Well. I did. But it doesn't seem to do much atm. Still...that doesn't matter until I figured out the keyboard binding first. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 20 2017, 09:21 AM | ||
For Error 5108, try going into Test menu first. You should be able to see the Test menu if your Nvidia drivers are up to date. If all you see is a white screen, close the game and find renderer.ini in your main dump folder. Open it and scroll down until you see two values that is "800" and "600" (easy to spot), then change it to "80000" and "60000" respectively. Then boot up Test Menu again and you should be able to read it now. In the Test menu, find the card reader and then activate it (if you don't see an "on", set it to the option that is not off, there's only two choices anyways). Also find set the "closing time" to "all time" or something like that. In summary, activate card reader and change the closing time. Of you uses the renderer edit, remember to change back that value to the original "800" and "600" after you're done with the Test Menu or you will see weird colors in game. This is apparently a display driver issue thing. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 28 2017, 02:04 AM |
| Multiplayer is out now in public version 1.05. The setup is a lot of work though. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Oct 31 2017, 04:41 AM |
| And 7AAX is now in version 1.06a. [ Post made via Mobile Device ] |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Oct 31 2017, 04:54 AM | ||
Updated OP. It's currently Patreon only though |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Oct 31 2017, 05:34 AM |
| Yeah, forgot to mention that. Card support is in for it too, but I have no idea if you can transfer over from 6AA by just...copying the card file or whatever. Also they said 8 is not gonna be in at least for the near future, but that's probably because the servers only just shut down and the game's still in Round 1 etc. |
| Posted by: kimjohn03 Oct 31 2017, 08:41 AM |
| What kind of PC Setup is everyone running to get this game going? Just asking out of curiosity - going to install this the first thing when I get home today. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Oct 31 2017, 11:42 AM |
| I'm on a 6+ year old laptop and it runs perfect. NVidia GPUs are obviously best for it since the hardware used it but since it's so low spec any PC from the past 6 years or so can probably run it. It's not like emulation since it's from hardware that used Windows as is. |
| Posted by: kimjohn03 Oct 31 2017, 12:11 PM | ||
Perfect, great to know! I assumed it needed a powerful computer to run this game. Thanks for the prompt response brotha! |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 31 2017, 04:47 PM |
| Just keep in mind that integrated graphics won't work at all and AMD cards still do not have have a minimap and some other issues. Really the graphics card brand is more of a factor than the raw specs are. |
| Posted by: Randy Oct 31 2017, 07:44 PM |
| Now if only there's a working D5 emulator somewhere...since that IMO is still the best next to D6 AA... |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 1 2017, 07:51 AM |
| Even someone does, you'll need Linux to run the loader since D5 runs on Linux. Probabaly won't be as much demand for it due to it being a less mainstream OS. D6/7/8 by contrast are all Windows based. |
| Posted by: kimjohn03 Nov 1 2017, 09:53 AM | ||
Thanks for the additional information. I was able to install the game flawlessly, pretty excited to be back in the Initial D world. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Nov 1 2017, 03:38 PM |
| I almost just want to skip to AAX when the new version goes public, gonna have to hope the card transfer can be done by just copying the card file or something... Edit: I finished the main story and now Another is unlocked. Probably gonna grind out points for tuning first. Also has anyone experienced some weird thing where during night races hitting the walls will automatically shut your lights off? Is that in the actual game or is it some control bug? |
| Posted by: jon360x Nov 6 2017, 08:42 AM | ||
with D7AAX back I had to rehabilitate myself again. I'm still struggling at the moment. but I got very close to my PB for Akina DH. 2'58"xxx
|
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Nov 6 2017, 08:49 PM |
| anyone find a way to change the tachometer in ID7? I hate the new tach...prefer the ID3 or ID6 tach |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 6 2017, 11:30 PM |
| There isn't one, since tachometer change only started in D8. Personally I prefer the D7 one though over D3 and D6 (D3's was especially annoying to use in D0 because the important info like speed and gear are so minusculely small). It's my second favorite only to D8's because it keeps the information concentrated on one area thus making it easier to drive. The new color thing is also one thing that I like since I can roughly tell the speed category from my peripheral view. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Nov 7 2017, 12:02 PM |
Apparently there's now a card manager for D6 and 7AAX that lets you edit card names and such? Image size reduced, original size: 869 x 745. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/332501407649497090/377115460828790785/Capture.JPG to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 7 2017, 07:31 PM |
| Yeah there is. Now you no longer have to hex edit the card yourself to change the name. Not sure whether it works with the latest 1.06c version though since that makes some changes to the card saving. |
| Posted by: ninja81xyz Nov 10 2017, 03:49 PM |
| I made my own mod to adjust deadzone on logitech wheel: simply enable stooz fix in the settings menu. http://www70.zippyshare.com/v/I57MVtp8/file.html |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 16 2017, 07:25 AM | ||
Reaquired my Tsukuba OB SP from D7. That last 0.1 seconds too a loooooooog time though.
Man, my right hand hurts.  |
| Posted by: ninja81xyz Nov 17 2017, 06:00 AM |
| InitialD 6 Oversteering Fix for Logitech Wheels Version 1.1 Updated (tanx SonicSP for feedback) Waiting for this problem to be resolved by reaver (hope soon), this mod adjust the sensitivity of the Logitech Wheels in order to have a similar feeling like the original initial D arcade games. My previous mod (deadzone fix only) is been to considered outdated. I havent patreon build, then for now only ID6 is supported. When pubblic version come out will also support ID7. How install: -Backup DumbJvsBrain.Common.dll -Replace with the new one -Set wheel degrees at 540 or 470 or 400 test your self -(Optional) Enable centering spring at 5% or 10% -In DumbJVSManager.exe settings enable stooz fix -Before launch DumbJVSManager.exe delete SBUU_e2prom.bin (In game steering adjustment is needed) Changelog 1.1 -Bug Fix: now is possible to access in test menu to change close time settings -Adjustment: deadzone is reduced and the sensitivity is slightly increased Download: see below |
| Posted by: ninja81xyz Nov 19 2017, 12:09 PM |
| InitialD 6 Oversteering Fix for Logitech Wheels New version http://www93.zippyshare.com/v/qY0RxqpM/file.html |
| Posted by: NSSpeed5 Nov 22 2017, 10:15 AM |
If only I had a good spec PC,I wanna play it so bad, and I have a Logitech Driving Force GT which would be nice for playing 6AA and 7AAX  |
| Posted by: s22tran Nov 23 2017, 11:21 PM |
| Does anyone know the diameter of the steering wheel on the arcade version? I would like to replace my G27 steering wheel with something bigger. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 24 2017, 06:24 PM | ||
35 centimeters for D4-D8 wheel. I measured it myself. |
| Posted by: s22tran Nov 24 2017, 09:28 PM |
| THANK YOU! SonicSP. I've been trying to look everywhere online for that information. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 25 2017, 12:25 AM |
| No problem, glad to help. I was measuring them myself since I was also thinking of getting a bigger wheel. The Logitech G series is laughably small IMO. Just some addition info, my G25 is 27cm and Wangan 5 wheel is 30cm in diameter if you need further comparison The D4-8 wheel is a lot larger than both of them even though numbers doesn't make it sound as such. D4-8 also uses 540 degrees rotation total (270 degrees on each side). |
| Posted by: s22tran Nov 27 2017, 08:52 PM |
| Thanks! |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Nov 28 2017, 08:04 PM |
| After playing ID7 for a month or so on my G27, I find the physics to be complete garbage compare to ID6. This has to be the second worst physics next to ID4. Can't wait for ID8 to be supported. |
| Posted by: Skyfrost2030 Nov 29 2017, 03:17 AM | ||
where did you get that card manager? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 30 2017, 11:35 AM | ||
| You can get it on Github I believe. Do note that it's going to be obsolete soon, since the upcoming 1.20 version will use new encrypted cards and old saves will incompatible.
According to Reaver, D8 isn't going to be supported for awhile, if ever. I hope it will though, since it's my favorite IDAS. Personally I find D7's physics to be more enjoyable than D6. There is more emphasis on lining, and definitely nowhere near as bad as D4. That said, it is a harder game than D6 since countersteering more important in order to prevent oversteer, so in general it's a less casual game. That said, I think it's one of those games where the diameter of the wheel plays more of a factor in the game design and enjoyment. Using a small 27cm wheel can be problematic in some cases in D7 because the speed that you turn your wheel can be a factor due to oversteering during drifts. In D6, the smaller wheel diameter of Logitech wheels is more of a plus than a minus because jerking the wheel back and forth is the way to initiate the drift and getting gold. D7 and D8 relies more on slower but more precise turns, which is more difficult on a small wheel even when the wheel rotation is expanded further. |
| Posted by: gns64 Dec 14 2017, 09:22 PM |
| Can someone PM me about where to find ID7AAX? Edit: I found it, thanks! |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Dec 16 2017, 06:00 PM |
| Does ID7AAX not have a difficulty setting dipswitch? I checked in test mode and I don't see one. I also keep getting this screen which prevents me from re-inserting my card...pressing view change bypasses it but then it gives me an error on the card insert screen and I can't do anything except make a new card or not play with cards at all  Image size reduced, original size: 1360 x 768. https://i.imgur.com/jj8GxXE.png to view the image in its original dimension.  Image size reduced, original size: 1360 x 768. https://i.imgur.com/ASjWq8b.png to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: ek9Main Dec 16 2017, 09:19 PM |
| anyone know how to edit to get level X?i stuck on SSS level on idx7 |
| Posted by: SonicSP Dec 17 2017, 11:41 AM |
| Don't think D7 has a difficulty switch. But it didn't do anything in D6 but only changes the time limit |
| Posted by: XJ220 Jan 4 2018, 05:00 AM |
| I get exactly the same problem as Zeether, seen people in that one french forum having the same issue. In the test menu the card reader appears to not be detected... Also the game crashes if I don't have the AMD fix enabled, even though I have an nvidia gtx 1070, quite weird |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Jan 4 2018, 03:19 PM |
| The devs are working on the card reader issue from what I read. Sucks about the encryption, because I had beaten 6AA's first story mode...I really don't want to go through Happo again even though I know I gotta do it in 7 too |
| Posted by: XJ220 Jan 5 2018, 02:40 AM |
| I haven't had a chance to test this yet, but just in case it works: I've read people with the card reader problem are fixing it by relocating their ID7 folder to the C: drive (mine is in D:), would probably work with a simlink or junction too if it is indeed a solution |
| Posted by: andrearisuda Jan 5 2018, 08:40 PM |
| i got a game speed issue my game is running in a insane speed (like fast forward on psx emu) any1 have solve this issue? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 7 2018, 03:31 AM |
| Limit your FPS to 60. Do this by going to your graphic card settings menu or go to Display in Windows and refresh rate to 60. The former is more recommended since the game might still break it by a little with just refresh rate. The game's physics is tied directly to FPS, so if it goes below or above 60, the physics will be sped up or slowed down accordingly. From tests that have been conducted, even 1FPS lower or higher can make a huge difference in time. This isn't a problem in the arcade because it's set to a hard 60 FPS lock but is an issue on PC. |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jan 7 2018, 03:34 AM |
| Hi guys, anyone here know how to solve error 5108? i tried moving my iniD7 folder or the teknoparrot folder to C:\ but also cant solve it. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 7 2018, 03:58 AM |
| Try downloading the latest 1.33 and see whether it helps. It's noted to have done something to fix the card corruption issue. If you are still getting corrupted cards in 1.33, the dev team requests that you send it to them so they can analyze it. |
| Posted by: freedom1104 Jan 7 2018, 06:52 PM |
| yeah~ i tried teknoparrot 1.21 ,1.32,1.33 on both of my pc .all to no avail. so i posted the card which it create on teknogods forum , hope i get some response and resolution soon as well as helping the dev team on perfecting teknoparrot. |
| Posted by: vision stone Jan 8 2018, 05:11 PM |
| when i complete the first race i get a black screen and the game closes down without any messages ive done the thing in the test menu so that its always open (the all time thing) but it still keeps happening and i cant find this issue anywhere else plz help |
| Posted by: vision stone Jan 9 2018, 09:13 AM |
| didnt mean to post twice xD |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 11 2018, 06:52 AM | ||
Only got three SP in arcade D7, so nice to have a chance to go and try get others with TP. ========== @vision stone: Wish I have a solution but I've never heard of a solution for that one. Can only give general advice like enable admin rights for teknoparrotui.exe and maybe turn off your AntiVirus but even but that's a straight shot in the dark for that one. |
| Posted by: onelonelyg Jan 13 2018, 01:25 PM |
| Im having an issue that I load up teknoparrot 1.33, play game (initial d stage 6 AA), then it initializes the wheel and whatnot, and then goes to start menu and says "press start". So I do....and the game crashes with no error message. I am using a Xbox One controller plugged in via usb. I have Nvidia GTX 970 and i5 processor. It only crashes right as I press start. I have remapped the start button to different buttons on the controller as well. |
| Posted by: ZeetherKID77 Jan 18 2018, 06:59 PM |
| On 1.34 I can't play D7 anymore, window just closes immediately after loading it and I have the whole folder as a virus scanner exception. Guess I'm screwed. edit: may have figured out the issue, Windows had removed an NVidia file because it had a false positive or something and it stopped working right after that, gonna reinstall a driver edit 2: FIXED IT, it was that driver |
| Posted by: Karin Jan 21 2018, 08:50 PM |
| does anyone know if i can play with keyboard? i am having a hard time with the directional buttons. i can only assign one button where i can make the car go left and right. i dont know if it's the wheel axis or not but the selecting a car menu just keeps switching to the left without touching anything and i do not know what to do. if anyone can help i would appreciate it. IDAXX7 btw not 6. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 21 2018, 10:28 PM | ||
Can you use a keyboard? Oh yes.
You will need to use UCR and Vjoy though to emulate a gamepad. You just need to emulate an axis, the others Teknoparrot can handle natively. No difference between D6 or D7 in setup. |
| Posted by: Karin Jan 22 2018, 03:25 PM |
| Thank you so much, i'll get to downloading that. Update: i had a logitec nascar racing wheel, it works perfectly fine. just a bit of tweeks to the axis but other than that everything is functioning well. now to learn japanese... |
| Posted by: Dragonfire Jan 29 2018, 10:17 AM |
| Hello there! i have an issue with my game. when i race Takumi my time doesnt extend and i lose the race because of "time is up" it happens to me in both id 6 aa and id 7 aa. Thanks in advance. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 29 2018, 12:34 PM |
| Make sure the game is running at 60FPS, otherwise your car will be very very slow. |
| Posted by: Dragonfire Jan 29 2018, 01:46 PM | ||
I clarify: when i reach the checkpoint the time is extended message doesnt come up and it doesnt add up more time to my race. |
| Posted by: Dragonfire Jan 30 2018, 05:46 PM | ||
i managed to fix that by changing my monitor refresh rate to 60hz that was interfering i guess. so i consider my problem fixed. thanks for the 60fps hint there! |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 30 2018, 09:28 PM | ||||
| ^I'm glad the 60FPS tip was helpful, even if inadvertently. This is unfortunately one of those games where the physics is directly tied to framerate (like for example PC versions of Vanquish and GTA V). The arcade runs at a locked 60, so it is not an issue there but when brought open to a normal open PC, it can deviate from there. Even 1 FPS difference can be a big deal from testing so far. A constant 10 FPS drop throughout the course can cause a difference up to 25-30 seconds in Tsuchisaka with everything else being equal, more or less. I didn't know it at the time since I was still researching the cause, but the left one was running at 60FPS and the right one was running at 50FPS constant due to a Nvidia settings. Only found out after I placed an FPS counter.
Reason why the disrepency was because my computer was at to run at 50Hz without me realizing it, but because the newer version of TP forces the game to output at 60Hz regardless of settings in Fullscreen Mode, I never noticed the drop in Windowed Mode because I usually play Fullscreen. TLDR, if you play in Windowed Mode make sure your display settings are set to 60Hz. Especially the if you own a 120Hz monitor. |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Jan 31 2018, 06:48 AM |
And as I learned, there may be a limitation in your monitor that makes it run at 59Hz even if you set it to 60Hz, and the only way to get around it is to patch your display driver and then run CRU to overclock it that 1Hz up to 60.  So if you can just switch it up to 60Hz without issue, count me jealous. |
| Posted by: KizaruSan Feb 1 2018, 04:46 PM |
| Hi guys, just wanna ask if anyone manage to play 2 v 2 CPU? I wanna earn my 2 v 2 smiley face, but either no one joins my lobby or they just didn't choose 2 v 2. Or does it simply not work? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Feb 2 2018, 01:11 AM |
| Feature is not supported yet so it won't work. |
| Posted by: Sinergy Feb 5 2018, 11:33 AM |
| Every time i attempt to launch initial d 7 it just opens a black screen. any help would be appreciated. i followed the tutorial exact and it is not working. Specs Intel i5 geforce 940mx 1920x1080 res laptop |
| Posted by: jon360x Feb 6 2018, 09:10 AM | ||
Just another TA Run on D7.
|
| Posted by: SonicSP Feb 7 2018, 06:04 AM | ||
Make sure your laptop is using your Nvidia graphics card as opposed to your CPU integrated graphics. Go to Nvidia Control Panel and set it to force use your GeForce 940MX for all applications. I ran into a similar problem with my laptop as well. It was using the CPU as opposed to the graphics card and it had a black screen. |
| Posted by: Dragonfire Feb 8 2018, 04:28 PM | ||
Yeps. thanks for the hint again. and when i had it at 75hz it ran very fast and i barely could control my car lol. but now im running into new issues. my game crashes when entering a race. i have tried deleting the cards and nope crashes. both id6 and id7 does it. i had a time with id7 beign stable but i played id6 and that somehow made my id7 crash again when beign past the 8303 message. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Feb 9 2018, 04:57 AM |
| Random crashes are hard to diagnose so I'll give you some general tips and hope that it helps with tie issue somehow: 1. Also ensure your AV and/or Windows Defender is off, they sometimes interrupt and modify the game because they sense a false positive. When troubleshooting, this simplifies things. 2. Take your dump folder and move it into the root of your C letter drive. IE - Basically go to your dump folder, right click and press "Cut", then go to My PC, right click on your C drive and select "Paste". Also, give TeknoparrotUI permanent admin rights. 3. And after all that it still fails, go download a new copy of the dump or if you have a RAR backup, uncompress that and run the game from the newly unpacked dump. Sometimes for whatever strange reason the dump can become unplayable or corrupted in some instances. I don't know why but sometimes this fixes issues for me. |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Feb 9 2018, 06:01 AM | ||
Hmm, I wonder if it, oh, I don't know...has something to do with the software loading the dump being in beta and doing unexpected things? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Feb 9 2018, 05:40 PM |
| Officially it's not really in beta anymore, we past that months ago. |
| Posted by: Nomake Wan Feb 9 2018, 05:47 PM |
| Well, just because it's not called 'beta' doesn't mean it isn't beta software. Unless it actually does everything it should, it's still beta. So I'm really not surprised that games just suddenly end up corrupt for no reason at all. |