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I only played ID8 @ Round1 which doesn't have magnet cards so I don't have a reference for difficulty at upper tiers, but it can't be that easy!!!
I played a lot of v2,v3 and I remember that wall penalties would quickly stack up so the 8+ stars races were always fun.

This one I can ram every corner and manage to catch up.

I will modify the ini to figure out which parameters equates to difficulty. It's more of a chore to level up the car rather than having the courses and opponents become a fun but managable challenge. (What's the point at the current setting?)

PS, FUCK BUNTA

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I only have one computer but it can run two instances and bind two network adapters to achieve single PC multiplayer. All I have to do is figure out out how to launch the 2nd instance. This game is not at all demanding on hardware.

I get an error message

"JVS I/O NOT CONNECTED TO MAIN BOARD"

which means ParrotLoader is not emulating I/O on the 2nd instance ran from command prompt

This post has been edited by DLS on May 23 2018, 09:14 PM

Nope, dont make that assumption. Online can be fairly hit and go for everybody and it can be finicky at times too. That said, just try and see how it goes.

Make sure you disable your firewall to minimize potential problems especially when trying for the first time. You can an exception later. Also remember you need to run and log into Steam.

You activate online by going to TeknoparrotOnline.exe. Then just make a lobby or join one of the game you want to play. Keep in mind that the program lists empty lobbies as 1/2 as well. Once you join or make a lobby, IDAS will automatically run.

Once somebody else is in the lobby and your game detects, the grey icon on the top right of your screen will activate and shine blue.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 24 2018, 12:29 AM

Minor bump on my CPU difficulty issue. I think I found what is causing the issue with ID8 CPU difficulty running on TeknoParrot.

The "RacePace" parameter in "RIVAL_DATA.ini" is set to all 1's for all opponents.

When looking at the difficulty mods by RifP & thelocalyokel for ID6, I saw that they increased this RacePace value in order to make opponents more difficult.

I see that another value they changed was KeepUpLength, which I think is max recommended fall behind / pull ahead length before the game starts boosting/handicapping the opponent, but this value doesn't seem as drastic as race pace.

EDIT: That seems not to be it

I changed it all the way up to 1.750 and the opponent difficulty is still incorrect.

Maybe I need to figure out how to limit fps into 50 instead of 60fps since that might be messing with the speed calculation.

EDIT2: After changing to 50hz/fps it seems like the game has slowed down (my time trials all went UP a lot), but opponents are still too easy

I will have to double check that the arcade version runs at 50fps by comparing my time trails, but I am pretty sure it does.


This post has been edited by DLS on May 25 2018, 09:56 AM

Cheers, thanks. I'll investigate this once I'm done with story mode, lest I stuff up something. Or I can just wait until the next public release of TP.

I grew up on PS1 days where you have to swap out multiple memory cards so I have no qualms of a slightly more inconvenient method lol.

Hey man, good to see you here from GTP. Good to see another person that can enjoy a wide variety of racers from Assetto to Initial D

Sonic seems to have answered most of your questions, so I'll just say that there is an option to have NO BGM while racing. It will still play the menu musics, but at least you can play your own tunes while racing. I think that's the easiest way if you're not a pro at all the file editing stuff.

If you're playing Wangan as well, make sure to grab the card editor here: https://wanganterminalproject.wordpress.com/
If you look in your WMMT5 game folder, after you have driven a car (reached finish, and select NO to continue, wait until you reach the GAME OVER screen for the game to save), there should be a folder called Teknoparrot Cars.
Using the card editor point to this folder and you should be able to freely modify (perf/visual parts) any car you've driven.
Unfortunately it doesn't show what the bodykits look like, so you'll have to look it up in an online database (google soarsmedia blogspot - it's in Korean but it's pretty self explanatory).

Enjoy!

The arcade game runs at 60FPS (or specifically, 59.94). And as you found out, the physics in this game is tied directly to framerate.

Running on 50FPS just slows you down. Even 1FPS difference makes a huge difference from tests done so far.

Thanks a lot buddy. Yup, I found the bgm option yesterday and will just use that moving forward. Don't mind the menu music. Thanks for the link to the WMMT5 Card Editor.

Beat Itsuki finally and then grinded (actually not so much grinded as "changed win points to 60000 and then picked all the performance parts) to full spec. SonicSP, you were right, the difference is huge...I beat Kenji and Takumi easily afterward. Only problem now is getting used to braking a lot, I lost almost all the water on Iketani's mission :V

Edit: lmao, did the mock battle against the online opponents and got a gold drift boost from hitting the oil on Tsuchi

Also, dumb question but is it not possible to remove an aero/visual part if you don't like the way it looks outside of hex editing? I was gonna put the fake Project D rear bumper on my AE86 because it has the kouki spec tail lights but I had second thoughts and I knew I couldn't take it off unless I switched to another rear bumper entirely...

This post has been edited by ZeetherKID77 on May 28 2018, 07:11 PM

Any tips on how to get online working for IDAS8?


-Machine 1
-Open Steam
-Open TeknoParrotOnline
-Create Lobby / Launch Game

-Machine 2
-Open Steam
-Open TeknoParrotOnline
-Join Lobby / Launch Game

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In both game main menu's, the

-1v1 (3rd from the left)
&&
-online mode (3rd from the top when selecting first menu item) were locked.

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Google Translate:
I get network error code: 8402
Pair Connection with the enclosure can not be confirmed. It starts up as a single state. (6002)

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Do I need any port forwards? What about dhcp setup under "Game Settings". Set cabinet number under test menu?

This post has been edited by DLS on May 29 2018, 08:29 PM

Some connections don’t work well with other specific connections. IE some players just cannot play specific other players. At least this is what we have found from experience.

We don’t know the fix unfortunately. Reaver says it’s because of high ping between two specific players.

You might want to try Hamachi if you’re trying to play between two specific players. You’ll need to then put the IP addresses and other numbers manually into the Settings menu.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 30 2018, 05:53 AM

Updated the OP with relevant info for ID8.

If anyone has a good guide for setting up multiplayer (online and offline), I can add that to the OP too

Finally finished D8 Story Mode. Couple of tough races this time around, mostly due to having to win AND satisfy the extra requirements. The ones I found difficult were RivalSide Godfoot vs Keisuke, Shinigami race with steering limit and the last Rivalside race (Takumi vs Keisuke). I had to look up online vids and resort to switching back to using a controller for those (except Shinigami race can only be done with a wheel). Bunta's race isn't that hard this time compared to D7, probably I got lucky with the track though (got Akina Snow DH). I love that they used Raise Up for the final race, but it's weird that it's not unlocked like Outsoar The Rainbow after that.

Momiji Line is probably my favourite track now. Such a wide variety of corners, not too wide and not too narrow. Good scenery and each sector really has its own distinct feel so it doesn't feel boring. Closely followed by Sadamine for similar reasons above and the beautiful sakura leaves. Tsubaki is also up there in terms of roller coaster feeling, but I HATE the last sector downhill. Least favourite tracks are Happo, Nanamagari and Nagao. Narrow, multiple consecutive slow corners is just hell. Just can't find a good rhythm with IDAS physics on these tracks. Honorable mention to Tsuchisaka and Tsukuba - I found these 2 enjoyable with D7 physics, but not so much in D8.

As a side note, does anyone know what the course medals at the top of the screen refer to? I don't think it's TA rank or number of wins. My thought is it's related to how many races/TA you've done at a track? The only gold one I have is Akina Lake, and that's the course I've driven the most on (for grinding credits). I even got the 30 races completed title for it.

I managed to Ex Spec my car as well, but had to cheat the last 5 parts of Ex Full Spec (those prices are getting ridiculous). As with D7, I still feel the physics is best and most realistic around late Stage 4/early Stage 5. Later stages are fast but it's getting hard to initiate a drift, even with spamming BAAAAA. The difference between Ex Spec and Ex Full Spec is marginal speed wise, and I think it actually made the car a bit more understeery. My time at Lake Akina only differs by around 0.5 sec - which could easily be down to taking one corner just a bit better.

I tried using ImNotMental launcher, but I couldn't get it to work. I can edit my card just fine in the UI, followed all the instructions and launched the game fine, but the modifications just doesn't show up in game. Luckily though I found another program which is much simpler to use. Youtube RyzingSol and in his video descriptions he included a google drive which has heaps of D8 info and cheats. I used D8 Garage for Plebs to add a 2nd and 3rd car (S2000 and Prius ). I know the S2000 is a meta car, but it's only 0.5 sec faster than my original NSX GT (or maybe I just suck lol). The Prius though is 2 secs slower Also got myself a hex editor and played around with all the different tachos. The only thing I'm missing is avatar editing and auras, but I don't really care about those so it's ok.

It's hard to choose between D7 and D8. Personally at lower specs I liked D8 physics more, but at high specs D7 is such a rush when you get it right. I just can't find a consistent technique in D8 - it seems to differ between cars/tracks/UH/DH what works to initiate a drift. Whereas D7 is much more consistent. If only the brakes aren't too OP in D7 it would be perfect.

Anyway, it's been great fun catching up with IDAS. I'm going to take a victory lap over all the tracks in D8 and I'm going to cool off for a while. Don't think I'm gonna bother with trying D6 as it's similar to D7 content wise but with the drifty physics which I don't like. I heard TP is planning to support Lindbergh and IDAS5 in the future? If so that would be the thing that makes me come back. Or whenever the MF Ghost arcade game comes out

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on Jun 6 2018, 05:35 PM

Hi all,

Just discovered InitialD a week or so and really enjoying it . I have managed to sort out most problems myself in D8 but have questions about force feedback.
I have a g920 wheel and it works great in game but when I first installed teknoparrot I never got any error messages on startup, but now I get one about not being able to start friction device and force feedback is being disabled. When in game there is resistance when turning the wheel and it feels ok to me but it’s not what I would call force feedback like in assetto.
Do I need to just ignore the error or work towards finding a solution. What should the force feedback be like in game.

Thanks very much Greame

In Tekno emulator settings, make sure the wheel is saved as a haptic device.
Tick Use Force Feedback and Thrustmaster Fix (even Logitech wheels need this apparently).
If that still fails, open ListDirectInputGuids (in your TP root folder), and copy your wheel's code into DirectInputOverride.txt (IIRC you need to make this notepad yourself) and put it in your TP root folder.
Sometimes if you quit the game and relaunch it without closing TP UI, the feedback won't work. You need to close TP UI and restart it.

Also check your strength settings in Logitech profiler. everything needs to be 100% (including centering spring and damper). For strength in Tekno settings, my personal settings are Sine 1000, Friction 1000, Spring 1250, Constant 2250. Sine is useless. Friction makes your wheel feel like it's filled with sand, personally I don't like it. Spring is the centering spring force (simulating self aligning torque in real cars, because arcade games don't simulate it like sims). Constant is the main FFB, experiment how heavy you like it.

IDAS FFB in Tekno is still experimental I think. It's certainly not as good as Wangan. Don't know if it's software limitation, or the programmer doesn't have as much experience with IDAS games. And you should certainly NOT expect it to be anywhere close to Assetto or even Gran Turismo. These games are arcade and they just provide the barebones of FFB (plus their physics model probably doesn't even simulate tyre and steering column behaviour, which is where most FFB comes from IRL). If you're used to highly detailed and heavy feedback from sims, it can feel like your wheel is broken when playing IDAS. It's not, that's just how the game's feedback is. In the arcades, it "feels" more substantial because the wheel diameter is larger and the rim itself is weighted. The Logitech is a small wheel and famously has very low internal resistance, so if the FFB is weak you won't feel anything. I suggest sticking with IDAS for a week to get used to the low forces. Trust me, when you come back to sims, you will be surprised how heavy it is.

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on Jun 12 2018, 03:38 AM

Hi, no time today but will try when I get chance. What is the wheel code. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Cheers greame

This post has been edited by greamec on Jun 12 2018, 08:02 AM

Read my post again. You need to open the exe ListDirectInputGuids (in your TP folder). Inside it will tell you the code of every peripheral connected to your computer. I can't tell you because it's different for every wheel/computer combination.

Hi,
Thanks again but I still cannot get it to work. I have noticed that my wheel G920 appears three times in haptic devices so not sure if that is helping.


Greame

You need to use the exe to find the GUID of the device you'd like to use, copy the GUID value into a DirectInputOverride.txt, and put that .txt in the teknoparrot root folder. Once you do that, the game should recognize your wheel.

Basically try this:

1. Go to your Teknoparrot Folder

2. Double click on ListDirectInputGuids.exe.

3. A Command window will appear, scroll down to the name of your wheel. Note it’s GUID number below it.

4. Make a new text file in your Teknoparrot folder. Name it DirectInputOverride.txt

5. Open the DirectInputOverride.txt and paste your wheel’s GUID number that you got in Step 2. Or just just write it down manually. Just write down the GUID numbers of your wheel and nothing else (you don’t even need the word GUID)

6. Save the file and close.

Isn’t G920 Xinput based though? Direct Input Override might not work.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jun 13 2018, 10:27 AM

Hi SonicSP,

Thanks for taking time, yes I think I did that right. I ended up with DirectInputOverride doc with just the GUID number on it nothing else.

I think its definitely a direct input wheel. I did try X360ce but still same issue.

When I ran ListDirectInputGuids.exe my wheel did appear three times with separate numbers as it does appear three times in the haptic devises section of teknoparrot. I thought maybe I need to test creating the DirectInputOverride doc and trying all three seperatly when I get chance.
I have read that the guys who made teknoparrot may think that the g27,g29 & g920 may not be good enough (which I find strange). I wonder if any g27,g920 owners could confirm if they have force feedback working correctly. would be good to know.
https://www.patreon.com/posts/teknoparrot-1-17544436

Cheers Greame

This post has been edited by greamec on Jun 13 2018, 04:22 PM

Logitech wheels are definitely Direct Input. The only time Xinput is used is if you use an XBOX controller.

That's a bit strange with your wheel getting showed 3 times. Are you connecting via one USB? Also try unplugging any other USB to your computer (printer, mouse, etc). If you can take a screen shot that would help.

BTW, I like to switch around between my Thrustmaster wheel, Logitech and XBOX controller. So I have 3 different numbers in my txt file and it works fine. I just have to switch between Direct/Xinput as needed.

Don't believe it when people say Logitech wheels are rubbish. I am using an even older G25 (seriously, the inside is basically 2 motors and a gear - it's no more advanced than a blender) and FFB works fine. I can still post top 100 times in GT Academys in my country back in the day. I switched to Thrustmaster because my G25 is not PS4 compatible. Even though the wheel is stronger and you feel smaller details, my overall speed hasn't really changed. You're only as good as your technique. If you can't drive, having the best wheel in the world won't magically make you quicker.

The opening post of this thread posts some tutorials, and the guy uses a G27 just fine. So I think it's not your wheel, but some weird issue with how your PC/wheel/Tekno all interfaces together. Have you tried another computer?

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on Jun 14 2018, 01:50 AM

The reason why I suspect G920 is Xinput is because it’s designed to be used for the Xbox One for its console support ability. The G920 is really just the Xbox One counterpart of the G29.

When we troubleshooted them on the Discord server, I believe I heard it requires Xinput. Granted I’m not an expert on controller signals.

========

I have Force feedback working on my G25. I think I had to lower the spring strength because it’s so strong. I didn’t have to do anything special to get it working but I did had to enable it in the menu.(first time I tried it didn’t work cos I didn’t tick it )

I think I may have heard somewhere that the G29 and G920 has some weird force feedback issues without Teknoparrot or IDAS. The input should still work though.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jun 14 2018, 04:48 AM

Well thanks again all,

I did a fresh install on another computer and my g920 appeared 3 times again in the haptic controllers & GUID exe.
I also installed X360ce and tried the Xinput route again, the wheel does show as one device using that but I still get the forcefeedback error on starting the game.

Really annoying as the wheel is to stiff when the forcefeedback is disabled and I am concerned about damage over time.

Real shame but hopefully one day a solution can be found.

Cheers Greame

Ah dangit, you're right. I totally forgot that the G920 is the XBOX counterpart wheel. Bloody Logitech, selling 2 wheels as different when they are essentially the same save for a security chip...I always have it in my mind the G29/920 are interchangeable (which they are, if you minus the console).

That's a shame that it's not working. Such is the nature of emulation I suppose. Hopefully in future updates they can support G920 properly.

If you really want, I guess you could just buy a G25 from ebay or something. They're old so it should be cheap as chips nowadays.

Hello ! I'm new to the forum, so i hope this hasn't already been answered, since i saw lots of people having the same issue, without succeeding to fix it

I installed ID7 aax on my pc using this tutorial
youtube.com/watch?v=2JQI86gEH3c

As in the video, i used vJoy and UCR to set up keyboard controls.

The first time i tried to play, i had a huge glitch with the menu : i couldn't just select stuff with the directionnal keys, the options kept on scrolling very fast like in a slot machine, so I couldn't choose anything/type a name, i had to try and stop on the right option.

anyways after that the game decided that i'd be driving a Subaru and racing against Keisuke, and even though i lost all my controls were working perfectly fine.

However after the latest Windows update, I still have the menu glitch, but now i can't even play since the controls don't work anymore ( the car just goes to the left and circles )

Does anyone know where the bugs come from and how i can fix them ?
thanks in advance !

This post has been edited by Edris on Jun 15 2018, 04:15 AM

teknoparrot v. 1.53 / 1.51
UGR and vjoy used
keyboard and xbox pad used


In menu selection, all buttons are pressed
If you start racing, you will not see the left and right
I have also changed the version of teknoparrot
The settings are still on YouTube, but not yet
This is the same behavior in version 8
Other than this, everything else is normal
I want to be an initial d too
I bought a new computer
Please help me
How do I resolve this?