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Views: 2,481  ·  Replies: 7 
> Clutch problem
s12drifter
  Posted: Jul 6 2012, 03:32 PM


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could not get a straight answer from my local Z31 people so I'm guessing it's not a very common problem

please read before you answer.

what I've done.

new master and slave cylinder (not even two weeks old) new rubber clutch line. new pilot bushing, transmission is COMPLETELY rebuilt (new countershaft, bearings, snycos, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and rsve gear all replaces, hubs replaces shift forks replaced at least 2k in the transmission it's new so the transmission is NOT the issue.

i have a 6 puck ACT racing sprung clutch, and a ACT heavy duty pressure plate.

i bleed the system to get rid of the air. the only thing i have not replaced was the throw out bearing.

and so you know yes i adjusted the clutch pedal, so much so i maxed it out on it's settings.

on to the problem, when i step on the clutch it works the salve moves everything works but the car does not move into gear. i cannot get it into ANY gear unless engine is off.

right now thinking of

bent clutch fork
collapsed throw out bearing (is that even possible?)
or some kind of pressure plate issue?

any advice or of the such? i cant confirm the problem 100% and dont know what else it can be.
MetalMan777
Posted: Jul 6 2012, 05:04 PM


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Who did the work on the clutch?

Just an idea, but maybe your fork isn't sitting on the pivot properly. Throwout bearings usually make noise when they're on the way out, so if you haven't had any issues up till now, it's probably not the problem.
Spaz
Posted: Jul 6 2012, 08:27 PM


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We can narrow this down to bell housing, since lockout of any kind is 100% always clutch. Internally, your transmission has no way to keep you from engaging a gear. Sure, grinds and notchiness can be syncro-related, but it still goes into gear, it just makes a nice crunch on the way in.

That said, the HDG6 is a good clutch, I've been running it for a year and never had any issues, only lockout issues I've ever had are when I mistime my throws or just plain don't get the pedal down far enough.

My first question is whether the slave is moving its full amount or if it's only partially disengaging the pressure plate, if only partially it'll lock out every time.

My second, barring a negative or unsure answer to the first, is whether or not you bench bled the master. I've run into hardcore car guys who've had no idea that it's supposed to be done, so I can't fault you if you didn't. Just disconnect the line and bleed just the master back to the reservoir via a length of hose, once it's air-free, re-bleed the lines/slave.
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sideways
Posted: Jul 7 2012, 11:15 PM


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Air in the line/master, torn seal in the master (sometimes even new parts can be bad) letting hydraulic pressure sneak past it, bent fork/pivot point, fubar pilot bearing (fubar pilot bearings wont allow the input shaft to spin freely from the output shaft of the engine, meaning even if you push the clutch pedal down and properly disengage the clutch, the input shaft still spins with the engine), etc.


Time to start checking things one by one. Hopefully it wont be a pita for you to get that transmission off. Know anyone else with a z31 who can come by? It might be handy to get down and check/measure how far their flutch fork actually levers to compare it to yours, and give you an idea as to weather or not your fork is indeed making the full motion, at least where it connects to the slave (Helping you determine if it is indeed hydraulic related, or something more inside the bell housing).
s12drifter
  Posted: Jul 8 2012, 04:59 AM


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LOL yesterday was productive got the transmission off in 20 minutes and.... and...


annd







it was...



two bolts had snapped off on the flywheel (that hold the pressure plate) the pressure plate lifted a little bit and this was why my clutch would not disengage. also found out that the throw out bearing was on it's way out.

going to take it to a machine shop to ez-out the broken bolts. the other bolts seem stressed too. time to buy stronger bolts.

This post has been edited by s12drifter on Jul 8 2012, 05:04 AM
Mazda ina Ford guy
Posted: Jul 8 2012, 06:15 AM


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What grade of bolts are you using? Also, not replacing the throwout bearing, WTF? It's called a "throwout bearing" for a reason, 'cause you should "throw it out" every time you take it off the main input shaft. Unless you have less than 10K mi on it, even then I have replaced, TBs get beat up, especialy if your naughty like me and sit at red lights and stop signs with the clutch disengaged ready to launch at a fraction of a seconds notice (for safety and defenceive driving reasons, of course derp.gif).

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Spaz
Posted: Jul 8 2012, 07:31 AM


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ACT TOBs are good at that. Put a factory one in.
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s12drifter
  Posted: Jul 8 2012, 05:40 PM


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bolt grade was grade 7. but im gonna go with that i went with my CV axle bolts (they snapped before on me) 12.9 carbine steel or something like that. super strong lol