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Post everything about Initial D Arcade Stage 6 AA and 7 AAX here. If you want to talk about ver.1 and ver.2, please post them in the ver.1 - 2 section. For anything about ver.3, please post them in the version 3 section. For anything about ver.4, please post them in the version 4 section. For anything about ver.5, please post them in the version 5 section. Participating in flame wars will be severely punished. NO plagiarism in any case. If you are posting information (i.e. - shift points) that did not originate from this forums, by all means, give the author / source proper credit. Violator will be given a verbal warning on first offence and an actual warning thereafter.


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> Teknoparrot now supports ID6, ID7, and ID8
SonicSP
Posted: Feb 9 2018, 06:37 PM


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^I can agree that it's unstable in general. In fact, since the 1.20 update it has been relatively unstable compared to previous version, 1.07.

This is when they started many of the new recent features and when they rewrote most of the code. The new features are cool for those where it works but there's also an increase in users who have problem, especially on Windows 7.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Feb 9 2018, 06:39 PM
Dragonfire
Posted: Feb 15 2018, 09:09 AM


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QUOTE (SonicSP @ Feb 9 2018, 04:57 AM)
Random crashes are hard to diagnose so I'll give you some general tips and hope that it helps with tie issue somehow:

1. Also ensure your AV and/or Windows Defender is off, they sometimes interrupt and modify the game because they sense a false positive. When troubleshooting, this simplifies things.

2. Take your dump folder and move it into the root of your C letter drive.
IE - Basically go to your dump folder, right click and press "Cut", then go to My PC, right click on your C drive and select "Paste".

Also, give TeknoparrotUI permanent admin rights.

3. And after all that it still fails, go download a new copy of the dump or if you have a RAR backup, uncompress that and run the game from the newly unpacked dump.

Sometimes for whatever strange reason the dump can become unplayable or corrupted in some instances. I don't know why but sometimes this fixes issues for me.

Thanks for the reply.
i think i found the culprit: its idlogger. if i run id6 with idlogger it corrupts my card files.
i have moved both id6 and id7 dumps into C:\ root and running TP as admin and no problems until now (im only playing id7 for now so i dont have any random issues.) i backup as a zip my card everytime i finish playing and exit the game after the GAME OVER screen (when it says SEGAAA) i push escape.
thanks!
Rakuen32
Posted: Feb 25 2018, 04:20 AM


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I've got a quick question, I had everything up and running just fine yesterday, closed and opened ID6 several times with no issue. I shut down my computer last night and when I booted the game back up today it's not reading my card and giving some sort of error message. I'm not sure exactly what it's saying but I assume it's some sort of card error seeing as it doesn't allow me to make a new card or use my one from yesterday, just dumps me into the game. Have any of you guys run into this issue? I've attached a screenshot to show you guys what I'm seeing. I've seen a few of you mention card errors in this thread, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing you guys are seeing, or if this is some other type of problem.

Edit: Yep, removed my card file from the folder, restarted and sure enough everything went to working but my progress is gone. I assume there's nothing that can be done with a corrupt card file at this time?

This post has been edited by Rakuen32 on Feb 25 2018, 04:27 AM

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Nomake Wan
Posted: Feb 25 2018, 01:26 PM


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QUOTE (Rakuen32 @ 9 hours, 5 minutes ago)
I've got a quick question, I had everything up and running just fine yesterday, closed and opened ID6 several times with no issue. I shut down my computer last night and when I booted the game back up today it's not reading my card and giving some sort of error message. I'm not sure exactly what it's saying but I assume it's some sort of card error seeing as it doesn't allow me to make a new card or use my one from yesterday, just dumps me into the game. Have any of you guys run into this issue? I've attached a screenshot to show you guys what I'm seeing. I've seen a few of you mention card errors in this thread, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing you guys are seeing, or if this is some other type of problem.

Edit: Yep, removed my card file from the folder, restarted and sure enough everything went to working but my progress is gone. I assume there's nothing that can be done with a corrupt card file at this time?

Your error message is "This shop's closing time has been reached. You can no longer use your card or play the game."

Has nothing to do with the card whatsoever.
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gns64
Posted: Mar 6 2018, 11:37 PM


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Can someone give me a rundown on the physics difference from D6 to D7? I'm having a hard time adapting, especially keeping speed through corners
Falbere
Posted: Mar 7 2018, 07:30 PM


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Generally speaking, D6 physics is more drifty, and D7 physics is more grippy.

In D6, getting a gold drift will boost your car's acceleration for a while after the drift ends, this caused D6 players to often opt for a more drifty driving style, trying to get a gold drift even at places where it wasn't needed.

In D7, drifting does not help the car's acceleration. Generally speaking, the higher your speed is, the more stable your car will be. Thus, it is very important to minimize your speed loss and keep the car's speed as high as possible or you will spin out.
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Neosakai
Posted: Mar 8 2018, 10:41 PM


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Anybody have an issue for ID 6 where after you beat the last stage of "Another", instead of unlocking the next mode it brings you back to the beginning of the "Another" chapter? Or is it just me with this issue sad.gif
SonicSP
Posted: Mar 9 2018, 06:27 AM


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QUOTE (gns64 @ Mar 6 2018, 11:37 PM)
Can someone give me a rundown on the physics difference from D6 to D7? I'm having a hard time adapting, especially keeping speed through corners

One other basic tip as well for D7.

To tackle a corner:

Turn the wheel first, then do a BC (tap brake then press accel), then countersteer as needed based on the angle of the corner.

Ideally the "brake" of the BC would be a half step, around half of the red meter.

Avoid using brakes whenever possible on D7 except for initiating drifts. It is really strong so it slows you down a lot. Even downshifting is preferable.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Mar 9 2018, 06:28 AM
Falbere
Posted: Mar 10 2018, 09:07 AM


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I am still skeptical about the half step.
To be real I do believe that a BC executed 2x quicker will be the equivalent of a half stepped BC, as for countersteer, isn't that something to be done when you turned too much?
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SonicSP
Posted: Mar 12 2018, 12:43 AM


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Half steps tends to work better for me for whatever reason.

As for countersteer, it helps you get back into grip faster which helps you with reducing speed loss. Of course, I mention as needed because how much varies based on the corner. So whatever that feels around right, it doesn't even have to be a strong one.

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gns64
Posted: Mar 13 2018, 03:19 AM


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QUOTE (SonicSP @ Mar 9 2018, 06:27 AM)
One other basic tip as well for D7.

To tackle a corner:

Turn the wheel first, then do a BC (tap brake then press accel), then countersteer as needed based on the angle of the corner.

Ideally the "brake" of the BC would be a half step, around half of the red meter.

Avoid using brakes whenever possible on D7 except for initiating drifts. It is really strong so it slows you down a lot. Even downshifting is preferable.

Thx I managed to drop my Akina time from 3'09"2xx to 3'07'0xx. I'm getting used to the more grip focused style of 7AAX, at first I didn't like it but I could say the same about 6AA's drifting. I'm definitely glad to see the speed decay while cornering in top gear gone, and I won't miss broken gold boost either.
iCalvinS
Posted: Mar 23 2018, 03:50 AM


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Hi guys, any suggestion on settings for logitech g29 on AAX? I've been playing around w/ the degree and sensitivity and it still feels kinda off compared to the arcade. Also any idea on making the wheel feel less stiff? feels like im getting a shoulder work out while im playing pinch2.gif
SonicSP
Posted: Mar 23 2018, 08:05 AM


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Set spring centering strength to around 30%. Should fix the stiffness issue, adjust further if necessary if itís too light or too stiff.

I think Teknoparrot also supports Force Feedback now for D7 though Iím not sure whether itís public yet. I havenít had the chance to try it.

The arcade uses 540 degrees, personally I use around 520 (on my G25). The reason why it likely feels different from the arcade is because of the wheel size. The G29 is very small at around 280mm in diameter, whereas the D4-D8 arcade wheel is 350mm. If that doesnít sound like a big difference, trust me it is.

As a more general comparison, Wangan 4/5 wheels are 300mm and I believe D0ís are around that as well.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Mar 23 2018, 08:20 AM
iCalvinS
Posted: Mar 23 2018, 02:19 PM


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QUOTE (SonicSP @ 6 hours, 13 minutes ago)
Set spring centering strength to around 30%. Should fix the stiffness issue, adjust further if necessary if itís too light or too stiff.

I think Teknoparrot also supports Force Feedback now for D7 though Iím not sure whether itís public yet. I havenít had the chance to try it.

The arcade uses 540 degrees, personally I use around 520 (on my G25). The reason why it likely feels different from the arcade is because of the wheel size. The G29 is very small at around 280mm in diameter, whereas the D4-D8 arcade wheel is 350mm. If that doesnít sound like a big difference, trust me it is.

As a more general comparison, Wangan 4/5 wheels are 300mm and I believe D0ís are around that as well.

Thank you ! Ill try it out w/ these happy.gif
Falbere
Posted: Mar 27 2018, 03:48 AM


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Nope, D0 wheel is the same size as my G27, which I believe is 280mm, while the WMMT 4/5 wheel is bigger, 350mm.
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SonicSP
Posted: Mar 27 2018, 09:19 PM


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I never measured D0ís so Iíll concede that.

But Wangan 4/5 is definitely around 300mm, I measured it myself using a measuring tape at the arcade. 350mm is the size of D8ís wheel, which I also measured, and its bigger than Wangan 4/5 by quite a bit.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Mar 27 2018, 09:21 PM
Falbere
Posted: Mar 28 2018, 11:51 PM


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However, I am certain that D0 have a smaller wheel size than WMMT4/5.
The difference doesn't look like just 20mm either.
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SonicSP
Posted: Mar 29 2018, 09:20 PM


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Iíll take your word for it, since you guys actually have D0 over there. happy.gif

Meanwhile, us Malaysians are waiting with diminishing hope.......T_T

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Mar 29 2018, 09:23 PM
gb1287
Posted: Apr 11 2018, 09:41 AM


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Hey guys,

It was a bit of a process to get ID7 running great, however there is one problem I just can't figure out. I use an xbox one controller and enabled sto0z setting to relieve the car automatically leaning to the right issue. The cars drive straight and true, but I notice that if i even tap the analog to turn with the road (not even a hairpin or corner), I lose like 4 km every time the analog is tapped. This is for every track and car.

Its super frustrating. Like, in Iro, the first section before the first hairpin. The road is twisty so I'm just driving along with it, not hitting the walls. I can never get past 90 km because I lose speed just guiding myself with the road.

Has anyone ever had this issue? this is like the only thing keeping the game from being perfect. Ill try to upload a short clip to give you all an example.
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 12 2018, 09:57 AM


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Have you Full Speced your car? The game is designed to have huge speed loss until around the later end of Spec 4 or so. Even then, I believe there is still speed loss, just not as severe.

Also it is recommended to set Sto0z to either 24% or 26%.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 12 2018, 09:58 AM
gb1287
Posted: Apr 13 2018, 10:55 AM


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No, I just started playing the game and I get the same results using 24 or 26% for sto0z. I recorded a small 2 minute video of whats going on. I showed my settings as well. I'm just using a regular xbox one controller. Thanks for your help!

https://youtu.be/k4TL2Elv6yU

This post has been edited by gb1287 on Apr 13 2018, 11:05 AM
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 14 2018, 09:15 PM


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If you just started playing the game and havenít upgraded your car much yet, then I think that looks kinda natural (IE how itís supposed to be). At lower specs, the game is designed to have huge speed losses when your wheel is turning, so for a Gamepad user the repeated turns leads to a lot of speed loss.

Itís not exactly fun at this point but itís designed to let beginners get used to the game and settle them in.

You upgrade your carís performance by buying those parts at the end of each race (the menu only appears if you have enough points to buy at least one part).

The physics system changes drastically as you get to the higher specs and get closer to Full Spec. The differences between stock D7 physics and Full Spec D7 physics are like night and day - and Full Spec is when the ďrealĒ game begins. A lot of techniques you learn or develop at the lower specs are actually not effective at Full Spec.

Basically just upgrade your car and the problem would go away . You can just accumulate points naturally or just text edit tricks if you want to get it fast.

My advice for you now until you get to the higher specs to not used brakes at all, your speed loss during turning can be used as a natural braking to tackle corners. In addition, turn as little as possible to minimize speed loss. I remember doing all of these things even in the real arcade version for lower Spec cars until I tune them to make stronger.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 15 2018, 04:39 AM
LeGeNd-1
Posted: Apr 15 2018, 11:29 PM


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Hey guys, new ID7 player here. Long time lurker and ID fan in the forums, but decided to post today as I've finally got Tekno working. I never played the games much cos local arcades all only have MT machines. The only ID game I played was IDES on PS3, and we all know how much it sucked. So I was stoked when I saw we can now play IDAS on PC biggrin.gif Chose 7 instead of 6 as it's a more recent version, and I've heard physics are less drifty.

I've spent the last 3 days getting used to the tracks, and tuning my car (got up to Spec 5, 3 items in). Finished story mode (Original, Another, and Rebirth). I'm using X360 controller to play btw. Tried using my wheel and the lack of FFB and small diameter rim makes it hard to judge turns, so I'm sticking with pad. Anyway, unlike IDES it seems controller is faster with D7 physics.

So I have a couple of questions:
1. I can't seem to get higher than B1 rank now? The blue bar just fills up and doesn't add any more points.

2. There's an added "R" to a couple of story races now. I beat them all but doesn't notice any difference? What's this about?

3. There's also an extra mode beside Rebirth - Legend. First race against Godfoot, then Iketani (really? Legend lol). Then against Bunta at Nagao which I haven't been able to win. Does this mode have an end or is it just a "opponent of the day" thing with increased difficulty?

4. For car tuning and physics, IMO the sweet spot is around late Spec 3/early Spec 4. It's what feels most sim like to me (normally I'm leaning more towards sim racing than arcades). Spec 5 the car is fast, but just understeers everywhere and it's so hard to start a drift. If you use brake it kills your speed, and when you do drift I feel it's very hard to recover. The one off corners that I manage to drift just right while maintaining speed is a nice feeling. But I haven't been able to consistently replicate it. Also it seems to vary with different races and tracks how throttle/brake influences car handling. Is there a site that gives a guide what techniques are used by the top guys? Or is it just watching YT videos of WR runs (thank god for pedal bars in ID7/8)?

5. On the official ID7 website, I saw some tracks that are not in my game. Namely Tsukuba and Tsuchisaka Snow. Are these unlockable in some way or is it because my game dump is not the latest update?

I think that's it for now. IMO it's much better than IDES, but I can't understand why they changed the order of the story so much. Also most opponents aren't even racing at the correct tracks (Tsubaki is so overused in later stages of story). A bit of an immersion downer if you're familiar with the manga/anime. Apart from that it's good fun to finally drive all the new touge tracks I didn't get to experience back in IDES biggrin.gif Now if only they will add back Usui point-to-point, Shomaru and Enna in D0. I know Momiji Line is back in. Also, we have never seen Yabitsu or Maze in the games ever. I just wish there is a definitive game with all the cars, tracks and races in correct order. That would be my perfect ID game w00t2.gif

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on Apr 15 2018, 11:31 PM
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 16 2018, 04:17 PM


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Welcome long time lurker. Glad to have you join us.

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ Yesterday, 11:29 PM)
Tried using my wheel and the lack of FFB and small diameter rim makes it hard to judge turns, so I'm sticking with pad. Anyway, unlike IDES it seems controller is faster with D7 physics.


There is supposedly an FFB update for D7, but Iíve been out of the loop for the last one or two months so I havenít tried it or know how well it works. My computer had to be reformatted lately so Iíve havenít been playing for awhile.

QUOTE
So I have a couple of questions:
1. I can't seem to get higher than B1 rank now? The blue bar just fills up and doesn't add any more points.


D7 requires you to participate in online battles to get pass B1. There is a gold bar beside the blue bar that you can only fill with online battles.

There is a way to get pass B1 though in the Teknoparrot version, it requires you to edit some text. Iíll need to get home first and show you what to edit since I forgot the exact details.


QUOTE
3. There's also an extra mode beside Rebirth - Legend. First race against Godfoot, then Iketani (really? Legend lol). Then against Bunta at Nagao which I haven't been able to win. Does this mode have an end or is it just a "opponent of the day" thing with increased difficulty?


The Bunta races do have an end, though they are fairly difficult. I think generally though Legends mostly goes on forever or at least is super super super super long if Iím wrong about that.

QUOTE
4. For car tuning and physics, IMO the sweet spot is around late Spec 3/early Spec 4. It's what feels most sim like to me (normally I'm leaning more towards sim racing than arcades). Spec 5 the car is fast, but just understeers everywhere and it's so hard to start a drift. If you use brake it kills your speed, and when you do drift I feel it's very hard to recover. The one off corners that I manage to drift just right while maintaining speed is a nice feeling. But I haven't been able to consistently replicate it. Also it seems to vary with different races and tracks how throttle/brake influences car handling. Is there a site that gives a guide what techniques are used by the top guys? Or is it just watching YT videos of WR runs (thank god for pedal bars in ID7/8)?


The general tip I can give you is to turn the wheel first when heading into a corner, then do a quick BC (add another extra C if you feel like it), then countersteer if/as needed based on the corner.

Brakes should be strictly used as drift initiators in D7. Generally speaking, the shorter you press it the better. In fact, some players recommend no more than half the meter when doing the BC. If the corner is too light, try to get pass it by using accel control, which means just tapping the accel a few times to help push the car in a turn.

If you really feel like you need to slow down for a super sharp corner, downshift and use engine braking (and yeah, all my sim and real life driving instincts scream at me everytime I do that in IDAS too). It slows you down less than using the actual brakes, which is really strong in D7 even compared to other IDAS games.

QUOTE
5. On the official ID7 website, I saw some tracks that are not in my game. Namely Tsukuba and Tsuchisaka Snow. Are these unlockable in some way or is it because my game dump is not the latest update?


Yes, you can get them. I believe there is some extra stuff you can download from somewhere to get Ver 1.2. Itís not a new dump I think, more like a separate file you have to put in another folder in Teknoparrot I recall. Your current dump should still be okay.

There is a way to access those courses even without that though. There is a modified exe you can get that will allow you to access them with your current setup on Ver 1.0, and yes with full correct arcade accurate physics too.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 16 2018, 04:31 PM
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 23 2018, 06:43 PM


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The latest Patreon version apparently adds D8 support. Havenít tried it yet though, donít have any Teknoparrot installed since I had to reformat my PC 1-2 months back.

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