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So the problem is with my dad's 92 civic and it burns oil like a motherf**ker. i'd say around a quart ever 400km or so (that's like 250miles or something i think)

We've been told by our mechanic that it's a piston ring that's bad wich is the usual or so i hear. But it's not really expelling alot of smoke or so i see. (not really watching it as i drive)

I'm wondering if anyone has some other ideas as to what it might be or solutions that don't involve a engine rebuild.

Also i'd like some opinions on how right this article is: http://www.howtoadvice.com/StopBurningOil

sounds nice but at the same time fishy as the idea of a sealing compound holding up the pressures put up in an engine doesn't seem too right.

I am currently reading as I type this, so in reality, it's probably taking me a good while to type this out. I'm trying to comment as I read through. I skipped his story, as it got a bit too much like on tv.


First paragraph of the "magic" fix speaks about replacing gaskets and such. That right there is already more than $20 as he originally mentioned, but must be done... obviously.


Just missed it, on the paragraph RIGHT BEFORE the first paragraph of the magical explanation, he mentions some product called "Bearing Seal Additive". Never heard of it, and I can already bet it's another witch-conjunction. Those things never work. In fact, most of the time, they do more harm than good (just like those additives people use inside differential cases, with the resulting white foam).


The whole oil thing..... oh geez.... I know that more than 85% of the users here probably don't honestly know how the whole engine oil thing works. It's a long explanation. In simplest of words: no, using heavier oils is NOT always better. Pressure is resistance to flow, so using an extremely heavy oil may increase oil pressure, but for the wrong reasons. Also, as it is repeated all over the place, about 90% of engine wear happens during start up. That's where the main problem lies. Using higher grade oils will generally get thicker when they reach ambient temperatures (when the engine is cold to the touch), and the oil pretty much stops offering the required viscosity to properly lubricate the engine, until it reaches operating temperatures of course. A lighter oil will take less time to reach operating temperature and start lubricating, while the heavier one will take longer (that's bad, children). Enough of that, or I'll keep blabbering.


Then the guy talks about adding additives.... synthetic oils already have additives that their companies have research and developed and according to their studies, it's with THEIR additives that THEIR engine oils will offer their "optimum" performance. Adding anything else breaks that balance. Also, if you need an additive to stop your car from burning excess oil, and you want to last the 15k miles that guy managed, then you're too cheap to have a car. Get a bicycle or something.


He says that the first and third steps are the real secret. Pardon me, but replacing gaskets and seals is no secret.


He even admits as to how that Alemite stuff causes a build up in between the piston rings and cylinder walls..... any user in here that honestly knows how an engine works will know that this already means bad news. That stuff is bound to get dragged by the rings and scratch up the cylinder walls. Not too mention, too much build up and it can break the rings. Imagine what happens if some of it falls through and into the crank? What if somehow tiny debris finds it way into the bearings?


Again, he starts talking about how thinner oils don't have enough body and what not.

"Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.

Just read that.... everyone go to the paragraph I wrote before that quote, then read the quote again. If you don't know what I'm implying, repeat the process until you do. Or just never touch an engine.


Ok, lol. I can't keep reading. I actually feel a bit stressed. Skipped through and my eye even caught the word "lawyer" and how he insisted that the guy put that he doesn't assume any liability or responsabilities over this.... you can imagine why.


Have fun, I'm gonna go back to my video game.

OIL RINGS ARE GONE and possibly valve seals... or theres a big leak in the motor.... like at the pan....

ya i did some more looking around and ya, that article just no good. any reccomendations as to what one could do to lessen the oil burn/loss? the car'll be gotten rid of sooner or later but not having to add oil that often would be a boon.

Sorry, but only proper repairs will actually do the job.

Do a compression/leakdown test. It's easy to do and the tool costs as much as an oil-change.

Is it really "burning oil" or is it just leaking? Since you didn't mention a wet-spot in your driveway, your engine might just be leaking oil when it's running and the lubrication system is under pressure.