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Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 13 2012, 12:22 PM

Hello,

Here's my 06' Subaru track car.

*********************************

Suspension:
Nasa / FIA roll cage
BC Racing BR Coilovers
BC Racing rear camber plates
Cobb Rear Sway Bar
Whiteline Anti-roll kit
Whiteline Ball joint
Whiteline Tie rods
Whiteline Trailing arms
Whiteline Control arms
Whiteline Front end links
Whiteline Rear end links

Brakes/Wheels/Tires:
DBA T-slot s
Stop Tech stainless steel lines
Brembo BBK
Reybestos ST47 brake pads
Amsoil racing brake fluid
Enkei RPF-1's - 18x9.5 +38
GforceR1 Slicks 245/45/18

Engine:
Ziptie Dynowerks tune
Cosworth Short block
Manley H-Beams
Cosworth Pistons
VF39 Turbo PnP
Tomei 3" turbo inlet
Cobb Short Ram Intake
Cobb down pipe
Cobb up pipe PnP
Invidia N1 mid-pipe
Invidia N1 exhaust
MAP head studs
TGV Deletes
AEM Fuel pressure Regulator (FPR)
Cobb boost Solenoid
Grimmspeed Cross pipe
STI TMIC

Couple of pictures that I have so you can get an idea of how she looks like and what not. These pictures are pretty old, when I have time available i'll post new pictures.

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Had to change my axles for the next track day event.
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Thanks everyone and hope you enjoy!

Posted by: Fast Nov 13 2012, 01:51 PM

Cool-ass car man.

Is that Crystal Gray or Steel Gray. Hard to tell sometimes...

Judging by all those bushings and suspension mods, the car appears to be properly dialed in. Continue doing good work!

Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Nov 13 2012, 05:21 PM

Can you just actually put the pictures in hyperlinks so they just show up without having to click through all 20 of them?

Cool project though.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 13 2012, 06:39 PM

QUOTE (DeeezNuuuts83 @ 1 hour, 17 minutes ago)

Can you just actually put the pictures in hyperlinks so they just show up without having to click through all 20 of them?

Cool project though.

Yes, sorry about that. This forum is a little different to the ones I am on and when I get home from school i'll have more time to mess around with this and try to have it all fixed.

Posted by: case Nov 13 2012, 08:48 PM

Very nice! Let me know if you ever venture south for some track days.

Posted by: backalleyracer Nov 14 2012, 01:50 AM

Nice job man - looks like those tires will be fun in the summer

btw

user posted image

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 14 2012, 05:51 AM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 4 hours, 0 minutes ago)

Nice job man - looks like those tires will be fun in the summer

btw

http://i.qkme.me/3rryp6.jpg

This was how it looked when I bought it so I never really had an option. It was riding on Perrin springs for that winter and when spring arrived this year I installed the coilovers and new wheels (Glad I got rid of those ugly drag dr11 wheels Lol). It not being driven any more since it will become a track car, I have a lexus for a DD now.

Posted by: DeeezNuuuts83 Nov 14 2012, 12:51 PM

QUOTE (Fast @ Yesterday, 2:51 PM)

Is that Crystal Gray or Steel Gray. Hard to tell sometimes...

It looks like CGM, the color I'd have wanted if I could've picked up a new 2005 model.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 14 2012, 02:21 PM

QUOTE (Fast @ Yesterday, 1:51 PM)

Cool-ass car man.

Is that Crystal Gray or Steel Gray. Hard to tell sometimes...

Judging by all those bushings and suspension mods, the car appears to be properly dialed in. Continue doing good work!

Sorry for the delay, Its a CGM

Posted by: mutation666 Nov 14 2012, 02:33 PM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ Today, 1:50 AM)

Nice job man - looks like those tires will be fun in the summer

btw

http://i.qkme.me/3rryp6.jpg

Posted by: chillined Nov 25 2012, 11:47 PM

This is win. I've always fiended the eagle eye Impreza. Definitely following this, by the way, we got the same brakes!

Anyways, sexy ass track car man.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 29 2012, 12:41 PM

QUOTE (chillined @ Nov 25 2012, 11:47 PM)

This is win. I've always fiended the eagle eye Impreza. Definitely following this, by the way, we got the same brakes!

Anyways, sexy ass track car man.

Thanks man, I really like these 4/2 pot calipers they are really good. I hopefully will be upgrading to Stop Tech ST40's in the near future only will be upgrading my fronts.

Posted by: Banken Dec 4 2012, 06:30 AM

If you haven't even stripped the interior and installed a bucket seat and harnesses, it's not a track car.

The FIRST mods you should always do when want to drive on the track are a seat, harnesses, and steering wheel (with appropriate spacer if necessary). Everything else can come afterwards. It's important to have oil and water temperature gauges, and ideally you want a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge too. For hard use an oil cooler is a must, especially on turbo cars.

Upgrading the brakes (besides pads and hoses) before you've so much as upgraded the engine significantly past stock STi power is a huge waste of time and money.

Also, a shift knob and shifter mods, and BOVs don't count as performance mods. Neither does changing the tail lights. And honestly, no one cares that you have a seatbelt cover. Point is, listing individual mods is a waste of time. The only thing that matter is a few major specs.

FWIW, an upgraded rear (and front, ideally) LSD would go a long way... it's not really a true track car until it has a mechanical LSD.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Dec 4 2012, 08:00 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 1 hour, 30 minutes ago)

Thanks for your point of view. I understand some of the items listed above have no modification purpose I just put it on the list because I can

. All I want to say is "Work and progress" I cannot just go and nor do I have the money to make a track car in 2 days and expect me to have a list of mods and what not, again (work and progress) I already have started stripping it down to lose weight and have started doing purchases for the car such as Racing seat, steering wheel, Defi gauges, Mocal oil cooler/power steering, and Mishimoto radiator etc. I honestly careless for what people think about my car because in the end i'm the one putting my time and money to enjoy her. It's slowly getting to where I want it to be at but surely will be becoming my track car

Posted by: Banken Dec 4 2012, 02:38 PM

Enkei RPF1s are my favorite wheels BTW

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Dec 5 2012, 08:04 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 2:38 PM)

Enkei RPF1s are my favorite wheels BTW

Nice, there good wheels. Strong and very light weight.

Posted by: razorsuKe Dec 5 2012, 10:03 AM

Oh shit, Johnny Tapia is a Sube fan??

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"He shoot himself, mother..."

Bad Boys 4 Life.

Posted by: Vile Dec 19 2012, 09:32 AM

This is definitely some of my inspiration for me right now to get a track car. Unfortunately, it'll take forever though.

Oh and I have a question Banken, since you seem to know a lot about track racing, does a steering wheel have to be an aftermarket one or one that just have at least an airbag? I would love to have the airbag to function work regardless if I get a bucket seat with the harness...

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Dec 19 2012, 10:11 AM

QUOTE (VileFCboy @ 38 minutes, 49 seconds ago)

This is definitely some of my inspiration for me right now to get a track car. Unfortunately, it'll take forever though.

It is not required to have an aftermarket steering wheel you can stay with OEM with the airbag. Reason why you see people going with after market is to get more grip when wearing gloves and they feel more comfortable with size/feel compared the the stock one.

Posted by: Spaz Dec 19 2012, 09:59 PM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ Yesterday, 1:11 PM)

I feel like Mitsubishi got that one right, contracting out to Momo (More recently, at least. I don't remember who they had make the earlier ones).

Posted by: Banken Dec 19 2012, 10:26 PM

The primary reason to get an aftermarket wheel IMO is because you can use spacers or a deep-dish cone to adjust your driving position to fit your arm length and leg length. Most Japanese sports cars have the steering WAY too far away for me because I have long legs and short arms. They were designed for people with short legs who are around 5'7" on average.

The second reason is because you can choose a different size and shape (D-shape for more legroom). The FD3S (and base trims of the FC3S) doesn't have a tilting steering column and has very limited leg room, which is one reason that D-shape wheels seem to be popular with FD drivers.

The third reason is because you can change the material of the wheel (I prefer suede because my hands sweat like mad) and pick spokes one that fits your hands. Also, leather feels better than vinyl...

The fourth reason is because airbags on a track car are a bad idea IMO. You don't want an explosive going off in your face if you bump someone accidentally or you hit something... Even if you disable the bag, it's still a bomb strapped in front of your chest.

The fifth reason is because stock steering wheels usually look lame, whereas (a few) aftermarket steering wheels look awesome. Of course, if it's not a Momo racing model (most of their street wheels are rice), a Nardi, or a Sparco, it probably looks dumb...

For that matter, a heavier shift knob can also improve shifting feel, and a bigger (wider) gas pedal makes heel and toe shifting easier. The brake pedal and clutch do not actually matter.

Proper driving shoes help, too.

Also, 10 and 2 is bullshit. It's 9 and 3 or nothing at all.

Posted by: sometrueno Dec 20 2012, 02:13 AM

who's john tapia?

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Dec 20 2012, 07:14 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 8 hours, 47 minutes ago)

Very well said

I wouldn't want an airbag blowing up in my face either if I were to crash(knock on wood) I think with my race seat/harness i'll be properly safe. Thanks for jotting it all down, i learned a thing or 2

Since I am a short guy (5'4") my problem was the after market seat. When you sit in a bucket seat you drop a lot compared to a stock seat and I was barely able to see over the steering wheel an reach the pedals. ( I needed a booster seat lol)
I sat in different seats in different cars to see what I would need to do once I get my own seat. It looks like I will be needing to pick up these rails to have the seat raised http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Sparco-004901NR-Seat-Side-Mount-Set-Black-Competition

I might have to move the seat rails from where they go a further up and have them welded onto the floor so I can reach the pedals. This all will be a pain in the ass to have done but i got to do it haha

Posted by: Banken Dec 23 2012, 12:45 AM

You shouldn't have problems at 5'4"... Being shorter gives you more room to work with. At 5'11" I absolutely have to have a bucket seat for extra headroom. Especially with a helmet on. So I have to put the seat to the floor and use a huge spacer so I can keep my brake leg reasonably straight. The clutch becomes an issue though...

Even if you can't raise a fixed steering column, you can lower it with washers on the
mounting bolts. The more you know. A smaller steering wheel gives you more response at the trade off of heavier steering and sometimes they block the gauges if you are tall.

BTW, you can adjust the pedals a little bit! Just make sure to do it right or the brakes will drag, or you will ruin your clutch.

Posted by: Vile Dec 23 2012, 09:01 PM

Damn thanks for the helpful in-depth tip Banken!
Especially about the steering wheel diameters, something that I've never really thought of.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jan 14 2013, 08:38 AM

Thought I give people following this thread an update of what's been happening to the Subaru, also I had to fix the pictures since they would not show since I cleaned and organized my Photobucket so I re-uploaded the pictures.

Anyways, The car is sitting in the garage in jack stands, I tried starting the car up every other day just to let the fluids run so they won't sit for too long since it's been freezing over here in Utah. I tried starting it 2 weeks ago and it would turn, I tried jumping it and it started, the next day same problem battery drained, I took it to O'reillys to have it checked and it was a bad battery, it was the orig oem battery and it gave me 6 good years. I replaced the battery with a AMSperformance racing battery for light weight and other specs.
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I have taken off the stock steering wheel and will be replacing it with a Momo quick release but I still have not picked it up. I took out both the front and rear seats, the stock wrx limited leather seats weighed 85lbs each!! Replacing the driver seat with a Corbeau that I purchased from Rallysport direct -http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Corbeau-29501P-FX1-Pro-Black-Cloth-Fixed-Back-Seat.

Some of you might of noticed on the 'Recently purchased thread' but I went and got a Whiteline anti-roll kit. I will be replacing all the sway bars with whiteline product, as well for the trailing arms and A-arms.

I purchased a quick release clips from Pegasus racing to make my front bumper a quick release. I haven't started working on this yet, once I take off the bumper I will be taking it to my friend who works at AeroFunction and he will be installing Canards with a Splitter.

Mocal oil cooler and Mishimoto radiator will be purchased as a gift when taxes arrived and by the time I finish my taxes the car should be ready for the first race. I will be taking the car to Innovative-Garage where I did my internship to have the new race alignment and corner balance set up.

Long way to go but i'm pretty stoked for the 2013 race season

Sorry for not having much pictures to look at but it's pretty boring right now since all I have been doing is just purchasing and I haven't really been messing with the car yet. I will do my best to have pictures some time soon.

Lapbattle.com

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Feb 6 2013, 08:11 AM

Any ideas what color I should paint my wheels? Thinking Yellow, White, or Black.

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Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Feb 6 2013, 09:33 AM

What kinda yellow are we talking about? Like Keisuke FD yellow? Goldenrod? Dull yellow? Metallic gold? Flat gold? Why am I listing all these tones of yellow? Well, I think I can most easily see your car rocking yellow rims. What are your ideas?

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Feb 6 2013, 09:49 AM

QUOTE (THE_HONDA_CG2 @ 15 minutes, 45 seconds ago)

Since my car is getting a Yellow vinyl for the headlights like my friends GC8
user posted image

I thought Yellow would match it. The type of yellow wheels I was thinking was was like Keisuke FD or Pikachu Yellow works too

Here are the colors I am looking at, which would look best with Urban Gray Metallic Subaru....
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Posted by: Banken Feb 9 2013, 05:33 PM

Painting RPF-1s is blasphemy.

I hope you've started taking things off the car before you start putting new ones on!

Posted by: case Feb 12 2013, 08:45 PM

...why?

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Feb 13 2013, 06:53 AM

^ Why...?

A lot of things have been taken off the car and haven't had nothing installed yet. Once I have everything installed and go get the race alignment and corner balance I'll be hauling the car to Colorado to have it tuned tuned on E85 at TheBoostCreepLTD by Harvey.

We have an open track day next month and i'll be going out there to see how the car does and what needs to be adjusted before the season starts in April.

Posted by: case Feb 14 2013, 09:40 PM

Take video! Of all the things I miss the most from mine, it's definitely the exhaust note of a nicely tuned EJ.

Posted by: Banken Feb 14 2013, 09:53 PM

Because RPF-1s are my favorite rims and they already look awesome.

Also, why 85? You loose a ton of power and it's only a couple dollars per tank. I thought this was a track car?

Posted by: case Feb 14 2013, 10:32 PM

I think you've confused gasoline rated at 85 octane vs. gas with an ethanol content of 85%. Also, my "why" was more directed towards your: "I hope you've started taking things off the car before you start putting new ones on!" because 1) it's not your car, 2) anything can go on the track, it's a matter of preference of the owner over what they do or don't do with it at that point. Giving people unsolicited advice by telling them what to do with their cars is... annoying to me. There are ways you can suggest things to help folks out without sounding arrogant. Saying "I thought this was a track car?" doesn't do that.

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Feb 14 2013, 10:45 PM

Ahem ahem... Boys. I don't want to see an argument here to sully the thread. If you have grievances to air then you can take them to PM. Any more of this and disciplinary shall be taken.

Posted by: chillined Feb 14 2013, 11:41 PM

QUOTE (case @ 2 hours, 1 minutes ago)

Take video! Of all the things I miss the most from mine, it's definitely the exhaust note of a nicely tuned EJ.

You had a Subaru?

And I'll be painting my RP-F1's if I ever get them, they're going white. E85 is the freakin' way to go with turbo cars. Cheap race gas, at that.

Posted by: Banken Feb 14 2013, 11:44 PM

QUOTE (case @ 1 hour, 12 minutes ago)

You're right, I was thinking of 87 fuel. My mistake. Can you not get premium gasoline without ethanol?

Also, I only said that because it seemed like he was doing a lot of upgrades / buying parts when there's so many things you can take off a track car for free, and end up with much higher performance. Like sound deadening, speakers, antennas.

Adding a bunch go-fast bits to a track car before you've done any lightening or interior/control mods just seems like the mark of an amateur to me.

Posted by: chillined Feb 15 2013, 12:15 AM

And he is an amateur still, so what's your point? Not everyone wants a completely stripped out and outrageous track car.

Posted by: Banken Feb 15 2013, 02:26 AM

No one is saying it has to be outrageous, but by definition it's not a track car if it's not stripped. Capiche?

Posted by: case Feb 15 2013, 02:48 AM

@chillined: yup, '05 STi that I used to use in time attack. but it had a full interior and no weight reduction...

@Banken: most fuel stations will say "Contains 10% ethanol" (and in the near future, 15%) or something similar on the pumps, regardless of octane chosen. I go to the local Rebel stations if I want to run 100 octane, which does not have that ethanol content. what kind of track experience do you have, out of curiosity? very few of us here can claim to be anything but amateurs.

The mods FC_spec has been making are mostly standard fare for Subaru owners to get the most out of their cars without tearing it completely apart, and if that's what works for him then great. The best way to improve your track performance is to be behind the wheel, after all.

Posted by: Banken Feb 15 2013, 02:54 AM

I have done about a bajillion track days over the last year and a half and three races. Before that I was autocrossing. I also own six different books about racing and tuning.

Track days are cheaper, closer, and more numerous here and Japan and you don't have to have a race car or a race license to actually race because they have races at track days.

You also don't really need to upgrade the swaybars if you have coilovers unless you still have too much roll. The thicker you make the bars the less grip you have. Some cars are actually better off without one or both of the stock bars after you upgrade the suspension to high-rate springs. Why? ...read a book about suspension tuning.

Posted by: case Feb 15 2013, 03:24 AM

I've only got about 10 years of track experience and competition, I still very soundly consider myself an amateur. I like these books (the four tall ones), personally, I've also got "Secrets of Solo Racing" by Henry Watts on the bottom shelf as well which is great reading material for those looking to start their track experience:

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But.. I digress, this is getting far too off-topic unless FC_spec is interested in the books and our track time for some reason.

Posted by: Banken Feb 15 2013, 04:26 AM

There is a difference between being an amateur and doing something amateurish.

The guy who owns the Scorch S15 is an amateur but he still holds the Tsukuba record. The car he drives is insanely well-built.

Tune to Win is an awesome book. I think Drive to Win is even better. Both of them have a few outdated bits (like Tune to Win's section on shocks and Drive to Win's comments on differentials).

Although I think the best book on driving technique overall is the Speed Secrets series (specifically the first one, and "utlimate' which combines all of them).

By comparison, I think Going Faster is waaaay too technical but doesn't contain enough useful information, and Driving on the Edge is mainly about driving purpose-built race cars although it does contain a few interesting theories and techniques not in the other books I have.

Posted by: Spaz Feb 15 2013, 05:42 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 5 hours, 55 minutes ago)

You're right, I was thinking of 87 fuel. My mistake. Can you not get premium gasoline without ethanol?

Why the hell would you want non-ethanol fuel in a turbocharged car? Unless it's race gas, you might as well run 87, it'll knock damn near as much.

E85, dollar for dollar, is going to be more cost effective than race gas, and it means you can run the same tune on the track and the street because it's available in most parts of the country, whereas race gas isn't. Last time I raced at CFR in Iowa, I had to drive 30 minutes to find 92 octane; 93 was a pipe dream. I can get E85 a mile from the track.

Also, pissing match over. You want to argue? Set up an IDW track day and do it on the tarmac.

Posted by: Banken Feb 15 2013, 05:57 AM

...because gasoline works better than ethanol?

Sorry, around here you literally can't find premium gasoline with anything less than 100 octane, so I never really think about octane ratings and whether my gas station's gas will blow my engine up.

Then again I pay twice as much as you do...

Posted by: Spaz Feb 15 2013, 06:43 AM

Efficiency and effectiveness are two different things entirely, and that's where I'm leaving this.

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Feb 15 2013, 08:00 AM

@Case - That's cool you did Time Attack, I actually am interested in the books you have been mentioning.

Like you said the mods I have been getting are pretty standard, I just been focusing on suspension to get the best handling as possible, cooling, aero, and weight reduction. I don't plan on doing any type of engine upgrade any time soon, once I feel comfortable with the speed I have then i'll consider it.

As for a Race license I would say check out Nasaproracing.com and your local track might be holding Nasa - HPDE events. There're 4 classes to HPDE, once you get to HPDE 3 here in Utah you can compete in Lap battle which I am doing this year, when I finish my last HPDE 4 class this year I'll be able to compete in "wheel to wheel" with the Porshe

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Posted by: Banken Feb 15 2013, 05:02 PM

You have to do a LOT of track days at a LOT of tracks with a whole bunch of handholding to get that far. I would have given up on track days if I wasn't able to pass slow people on my first day.

Posted by: backalleyracer Feb 15 2013, 07:45 PM

nice job man, keep it up

Posted by: case Feb 15 2013, 10:36 PM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ Today, 8:00 AM)

I just been focusing on suspension to get the best handling as possible, cooling,

^ that made me think of something that I ran into, any track where you'll go over maybe 120-130mph you will probably start running into problems where your rad fan (if stock) will start cutting into your rad hoses; the airflow will bend the fan back enough to hit the expanded hoses after several runs. Samco's will help you not do this. I got lucky when that happened to me during a practice and was able to buy a spare set from of the guys at the track but I would've been screwed during the competition otherwise. Figure I'll try to save you the trouble.

Posted by: Banken Feb 16 2013, 01:59 AM

Using a hose with a spring form inside of it would prevent that, and would also prevent the radiator>engine hose from shutting at high rpms due to vacuum. It's also cheaper than a Samco hose.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Feb 26 2013, 03:05 PM

Got an email today with this video from last years recap. It doesn't show any Lap battle, you do get to see some Wheel to Wheel racing Porsche

YOUTUBE ( http://youtu.be/6xwWQt7wWKw )

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Feb 28 2013, 09:50 PM

Holy shit.... Yeah it was time to have these changed out.
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If you look closely you can see my oem trailing arm bent from the previous owner who got rear ended. This should of been changed out when it got inspected and this caused the issue of me only being able to get NO MORE THAN -1.0 camber in the rear!
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Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Mar 16 2013, 07:55 PM

Hmhm. I remember seeing something on Facebook about a new part coming in!~ What's the news on the car now since race day is only about a week away?

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 16 2013, 09:49 PM

Yeah a lot has happened the last two weeks, I wish I had a decent camera to post pictures more often. I did get a call from my good friend today to go pick up my front bumper with the new down force set up! Excited and cant wait to see the improved difference

And an update for everyone who follows this thread, 2 weeks left till my first race (03/30)! Getting tuned next week, i'll post a pictures of my car on the dyno and numbers my car gets. I really hope to make 300whp even though I am satisfied with the speed I have right now. All the purchases I have done this winter for all dedicated for cooling and handling purposes, once I feel quicker or if something goes wrong with the engine then i'll do some engine upgraded mods.

Lowering the car tomorrow 1" - 2.0" depending how the slicks fit. Hauling the car to Innovative-Garage this week to get the race alignment / corner balance so I can have put on the dyno like I explained up above.

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And here are some crappy cell phone pictures.

Picture of the new Mishimoto radiator and my friend helping me change out the Spark plugs, of course went with iridium NGK 1 step colder.
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Box of the Mishimoto radiator and my RPF-1's done from getting powder coated.
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My new Corbeau seat, I did receive the Corbeau 5-point harness this week as well but haven't taken any pictures of it yet.
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Posted by: Spaz Mar 16 2013, 09:56 PM

SICK!
Now that's a bumper I might not feel too bad about waving by.

Posted by: chillined Mar 17 2013, 08:54 AM

300whp is your goal? I'd like to know what you're running to reach that power level. I'm looking at a VF30 turbo with supporting mods, TGV deletes, FMIC.

And I'm jealous of your bumper, what are the canards made out of?

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 17 2013, 02:46 PM

QUOTE (chillined @ 5 hours, 51 minutes ago)

Nothing much a VF39, STi TMIC, 1000cc dynamic injectors, Invidia N1 full exhaust, Cobb up/down pipe, cobb short ram intake and a really good tune! Still haven't decided if i'll be getting tuned on E or not.

Went today to pick up my trunk. Another bad quality cell phone picture haha, really should invest in getting a legit Camera.
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I need some advise! I am trying to pull off my right rear control arm and the nut next to the gas chamber WILL NOT COME OFF!

We tried PB blaster and heating up the nut with a torch and it's just keeps laughing at me, the nut is badly damaged and and I really don't want to cut the screw. I'm thinking of trying to cut off the nut with some power tools my neighbor will be bringing home from his shop tomorrow so will see. Please let me know of any other advise!?

Posted by: Rudy Mar 17 2013, 03:41 PM

Eeeeeewwwwwww vaginaface.

You already swapped the tails for the "Prettyboy Stevens", why didn't you do the nose while you were at it?

Of course, that's just my personal preference; I hate the look of the '06-07.

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Mar 17 2013, 04:32 PM

QUOTE (Dorifuta @ 49 minutes, 58 seconds ago)

Eeeeeewwwwwww vaginaface.

You already swapped the tails for the "Prettyboy Stevens", why didn't you do the nose while you were at it?

Of course, that's just my personal preference; I hate the look of the '06-07.

I say the need for the mention of female genitals is rather unnecessary. Also if you don't have anything nice to say, then don't say it. I think the car looks fine. So shhhhh!

Also for the nut dilemma, have you tried yelling and cussing at it? I did that once to one of the terminals of my car battery and I broke it off. Had to get a new one... And my dad told me to meditate to control my inner Hulk.

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: chillined Mar 17 2013, 05:11 PM

QUOTE (Dorifuta @ 1 hour, 29 minutes ago)

Eeeeeewwwwwww vaginaface.

You already swapped the tails for the "Prettyboy Stevens", why didn't you do the nose while you were at it?

Of course, that's just my personal preference; I hate the look of the '06-07.

How can you hate the eagle eye look? Looks a hell of a lot better than the blobeye or the bugeye...

FC, you're going to have a hard time getting 300 WHP from a VF39 without a FMIC. Go on E for sure, it'll make it easier to reach that magic figure.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 17 2013, 07:21 PM

QUOTE (chillined @ 2 hours, 10 minutes ago)

Haha well said "magic figure"
It will be tough with a VF39 and not being fmic wont help, will see what I get on the dyno

Posted by: Spaz Mar 17 2013, 09:50 PM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ 6 hours, 57 minutes ago)

Still haven't decided if i'll be getting tuned on E or not.

Do it. It's so worth it, and it'll make your power goals cake. Plus, you definitely have enough injector to support it.

QUOTE (FC_spec @ 6 hours, 57 minutes ago)

I need some advise! I am trying to pull off my right rear control arm and the nut next to the gas chamber WILL NOT COME OFF!

I don't know if you've tried it yet, and I HIGHLY suggest keeping an extinguisher on hand if you do it, it to heat up BOTH the nut and the bolt and the area around it with a MAPP torch and get it glowing, then hit the bolt at the center with PB Blaster. It'll cause a snap cooling and contraction of the bolt, hopefully breaking the rust just enough to allow the nut to come free.

If that doesn't work, just cut it. You eventually get to a point where it stops being worth your time to fuck around with it and just do what you know'll work. I don't use just heat anymore, if PB Blaster by itself doesn't work I go straight to what I described above, and after two tries I grab the angle grinder. It's not worth the time to try to do it cleanly at that point.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 21 2013, 07:47 PM

I really need a better camera

Anyways, finally got this little #@%ker cut today!!!
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Posted by: Rudy Mar 21 2013, 08:05 PM

QUOTE (chillined @ Mar 17 2013, 08:11 PM)

How can you hate the eagle eye look? Looks a hell of a lot better than the blobeye or the bugeye...

That grille KILLS IT.

A few years ago, someone photoshopped a final-release GDB with the hideous grille removed and a 'clean' nose, and it looked fantastic. Too bad Subaru was all about spreading the AWESOMENESS of their then-new B9 Tribeca's looks throughout their entire lineup!

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Mar 22 2013, 12:14 AM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ 4 hours, 26 minutes ago)

I really need a better camera

Anyways, finally got this little #@%ker cut today!!!
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m543/Eww_Evo/IMAG0138-1.jpg
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FINALLY! Now you can actually start doing work on the rest of the damn car. Gosh that looks really bad... I would have just taken one look at in and said nope and cut it. Good luck getting the rest of the car finished in time for the race on the 30th! You can do it!

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 22 2013, 08:10 AM

QUOTE (THE_HONDA_CG2 @ 7 hours, 56 minutes ago)

http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_liizctxwuv1qeh39oo1_500.gif

I really should of just cut it off the first day i attempted messing with it. Thanks for the support everyone!

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 6 2013, 02:13 PM

Got tuned on 91, i'll be going with E85 soon, I just couldn't get E85 at the moment.
Made 292 HP and 331 torque in 4th gear. On the Dyno in 3rd gear i made 330hp and 370 torque.
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Couple pictures from the Track last week.

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This Viper was my competition at the track, I was faster in the turns but on the straight's he just took off
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Stupid bumper

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Much better
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On my last session exiting the track about to head home my car turned off. Stupid upper radiator hose hit the fan (Very common with Subaru) My distilled water shot all over my motor and I possibly broke a sleeve in the Short block or a blown head gasket, I HOPE it's just a head gasket. Pulling the motor this weekend to find the damage
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Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Apr 6 2013, 03:38 PM

Oh no! What happened to the bumper? Aside from that you don't know the extent of the damage from the hose yet huh?

P.S. Your helmet is awesome!~

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 7 2013, 07:34 AM

QUOTE (THE_HONDA_CG2 @ Yesterday, 3:38 PM)

Oh no! What happened to the bumper? Aside from that you don't know the extent of the damage from the hose yet huh?

P.S. Your helmet is awesome!~

It came off on the track. I had to go into pit to attach it back on, we tried using race tape so i could finish my session but it came off still from one side. It got it fixed after

Thanks, i like it too

Posted by: pingu86 Apr 7 2013, 07:40 AM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ Yesterday, 2:13 PM)

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b549/Jonntapia/IMG_00000045_zps3ed5b5df.jpg

FC_spec are you the black Stig???

Posted by: Spaz Apr 7 2013, 08:44 AM

QUOTE (pingu86 @ 1 hour, 3 minutes ago)

FC_spec are you the black Stig???

I'm actually the black stig:

SPOILER

Sucks to hear about the coolant issue, that shit sucks on the track, once it happens you're basically along for the ride. If you lose circulation, you'll flash boil whatever's in there, if there's nothing there, it's going straight into the metal. One of the worst possible situations you can be in.

That said, the numbers look good, man. If you've got a good tuner, that torque is going to be INSANE on corn.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 7 2013, 09:00 AM

@pingu86 That is a secret!!

Hopefully it's just a really head gasket, if not I have 2 choices and i'm honestly not so sure which to do.

1 - Purchase a Rallispec block with a lot of goodies. It's a dedicated racing short block and this will last me a good long while with a great tune and Corn. It would be the more pricey choice.
http://rallispec.com/prod_block.htm (The upper one for $3500)

2 - I have a friend over here who has a 2004 STi long block that he would give to me installed for $2500, it's got some internal things changed out to make it run safe. The sketchy part is he's a drifter and this motor has been drifted on. The reason why he is selling it is because he wants to make 500hp and he's building another STi engine. He said he's more than happy to do a compression test etc to show me it's a good motor but I dunno if I would run into more problems in the long run..

You can see the Blue STi I am speaking about in this video from our drift event last month.

YOUTUBE ( http://youtu.be/sE84iRpuP2A )

What do you guys think?

Posted by: Spaz Apr 7 2013, 11:08 AM

Also do a leakdown on the STi motor, and do both tests dry AND wet. Also important, what did he run for oil? I'm sure you know how zinc-sensitive those motors are.

In the end, it's probably also cost-effective to sleeve and build your own, then you're in complete control of everything and you get an engine you don't have to worry about. A buddy of mine recently did the math to build his blown '98 STi 2.0, and he's finding it to basically be a no-brainer to sleeve it and slap in a Cosworth 2.2 stroker setup, and I looked at his numbers and couldn't agree more. He's also considering having my guy assemble the rotating assembly based on my experiences with him and I can't blame him there either.

Looking at the site, I see the price you sited was for their "street" build. IMO, street builds are bolt-ons and headwork within reason. If you're building a bottom end you should be doing it right and overbuilding it, none of this "for the street" crap. My on paper weak point are my rods at 650tq, but the reality is that they're Eagles, and that I could melt my 800hp pistons and reuse the rods without question. I'm built for twice what I ever plan to make, and I don't have to worry about it.

Posted by: Banken Apr 8 2013, 05:10 PM

Get another stock block from the dealer engraved with your original serial number.

Putting an engine from an older car into a newer one is illegal.

And $2500 is a shitton for a used engine, especially one that has been thrashed.

There's not reason to spend thousands of dollars on a built engine when you just started racing.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 8 2013, 05:40 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 30 minutes, 19 seconds ago)

You set a lot of good points.

I think you and Spaz pointed great ideas and i'm pretty sure i'll be going with a stock block arp head studs and Cosworth head gasket.

I'll let you guys know soon what exactly went wrong.

Posted by: Spaz Apr 8 2013, 09:17 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 4 hours, 6 minutes ago)

There's not reason to spend thousands of dollars on a built engine when you just started racing.

Right, because making sure you're putting together a car that can stand up to the punishment for years to come is completely stupid.

Nobody is saying it has to be some ridiculous 6768 11.5:1 LR 11k rpm build... Look at my motor, I bumped compression by .2 but basically bulletproofed the thing, and for less than a factory longblock would have cost me. I netted damn near nothing from it performance-wise, but gained everything in dependability.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 19 2013, 08:42 PM

Motor is out!

It's so nice having the motor out for the first time and being able to inspect every little inch, tomorrow i'll go purchase blue tape to start unplugging the hoses and take off the manifold to get to the heads to find out what needs to be done.

My friend took my turbo and will be doing a port and polish and will do the same thing with my manifold. I'll be looking into getting a new dp and get rid of the Cobb dp. New clutch will be done as well while the motor is out, my flywheel looks in great shape after being ran at the track

i'll resurface it unless I get an after market one for lightweight and better performance. Oh yeah AC is gone!!

I'll more pictures once I have everything taken apart

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Posted by: Filphil Apr 19 2013, 10:18 PM

I saw you said cooling was your priority but you're doing yourself a disservice by not sealing around your heat exchangers with ducting.

Seal off the top of your radiator with layers of strong duct tape and use signs to make the ducts around your radiator and intercooler if you want an inexpensive way to do try it out. The idea is to get the air THROUGH the intercooler, radiator, and oil coolers rather than around them.

Here's a shiny example:

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Also you're using BC coilovers?! I use them on my ms3 but that was because at the time it was one of maybe 3 options available and had adjustable camber plates for the front. If I had to do it all again I would have gone to AST/Vorshlag and sent them measurements to fab me up a set.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 19 2013, 10:41 PM

Yep, BC coilovers and love them! They handle amazing with my suspension setup

Posted by: Filphil Apr 20 2013, 06:45 AM

Sounds good, man. What do the wrx's do for camber adjustment in the rear?

You mentioned lap battle? Are you doing Nasa TT?

I love the approach you've taken without adding much power and concentrating so much on what truly matters.
I read a pretty decent blog post the other day and I think it may be of some value to you.
http://www.elliottcaras.com/lessons-learned-from-racing-cars/

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 26 2013, 06:54 PM

#uck yeah!!!

Broken head gasket!! heads and block are in great shape

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Apr 26 2013, 09:10 PM

Does this mean that we'll get more news on your car soon? Also, estimated time till its back on the road?

Posted by: RedsunsF1 May 2 2013, 02:57 PM

QUOTE (THE_HONDA_CG2 @ Apr 26 2013, 09:10 PM)

http://cache.ohinternet.com/images/a/a1/Awww_yeah.jpg

Does this mean that we'll get more news on your car soon? Also, estimated time till its back on the road?

Yeah

Putting the car back together now to get it running.

Doing some small upgrades and here's a couple picture's of the HG and the block. New clutch, ARP head studs, Cosworth HG on the way. I will be purchasing a new Grimmspeed cross pipe, the heads are getting dropped of at Pro machine ( Local machinist shop) to get resurfaced this week. Car should be getting back together soon!

AC Delete! Becauseracecar
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Port and polished turbo
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And here's the issue. You can see where the HG went bad on the towards the bottom on both sides.
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Block got inspected and in good shape!
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Posted by: Spaz May 2 2013, 08:19 PM

ARP H11s, I hope. Standard ARPs are garbage.

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 May 2 2013, 08:21 PM

Yes! You can get the car back together in time for this months race right? Because that would be sweeeeeeeeet!

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Posted by: RedsunsF1 May 3 2013, 07:06 AM

The race this month is tomorrow so I won't be able to attend, i'll be out next month for sure and hopefully if everything works according to plan i'll be going to California in July to race at Buttonwillow.

Spaz, I've heard of the heavy duty H11's and people told me to stick with oem's or just standard ARP head studs would be fine since i'm not aiming for power. I'm debating returning these and purchasing oem with a Cosworth head gasket.

Posted by: Spaz May 3 2013, 09:57 AM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ 2 hours, 50 minutes ago)

Spaz, I've heard of the heavy duty H11's and people told me to stick with oem's or just standard ARP head studs would be fine since i'm not aiming for power. I'm debating returning these and purchasing oem with a Cosworth head gasket.

Stardard ARPs will at best be no better than OEM. And OEM are stretch-type and I just wouldn't trust them. Had a bit of a bad experience with stretch studs, $4400 worth of bad experience, to be exact.

Basically, you have nothing to lose by overbuilding in the sealing sense. I mean, I'm not saying go out and o-ring the block, but at the end of the day a stud you know you never have to worry about is ideal.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 May 3 2013, 11:21 AM

Gotcha thanks for the head up man.

I have one more question please, I guess the rule with ARP once you install them, torque them to spec, install the motor back in the car and it goes through a heat cycle (pretty much turn it on let it run till it warms up) then i'll have to pull the motor back out to re-torque the bolts? I got many of my questions answered on Nasioc but some people told me to not worry about re-torquing them and other's told me other wise.

Looks like these are some options that we have available at our local shop.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/catalog_search_results.cfm?search_keywords=arp+studs

Posted by: Spaz May 3 2013, 11:48 AM

I've never retorqued head studs. Doesn't mean it isn't recommended, but I've just never done it.

I'm using MAP's standard duty studs. I didn't have the money for H11s at the time but didn't want to do ARPs. They've repeatedly tested stronger than the ARPs so I went for it. Head's been on and off the car 3 times on these same studs with no issue. Could be worth a look for you.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 May 24 2013, 02:33 PM

Received my parts and I'll be putting the car back together this coming week. Thanks so much for the helpful information Spaz! I returned the ARP's and ordered the MAP bolts. Good people and quick on answering my emails.

I'm having my friend help me put the Motor back together but at the same time I want to learn. I have done my reading and I would like to get some thing's clarified

First, when installing the new MAP bolts should i hand tight them down first then torque them down to spec? For Subaru I got some specs from great local shops here of 30-60-85 with L19 or 30-60-90.
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My final question, after I have everything installed and back together should I take it in to have a down leak/compression test to make sure everything is running safe? I will be taking it to my tuner to get a re-tune since I got a couple things port and polished and new cross pipe.

Thanks guys again for all the great information! June 22 is my next race

Posted by: Spaz May 24 2013, 03:30 PM

Yes, you want to hand tighten them all the way down until the dog tooth bottoms out. I'd go 25-45-75-90, then let it sit for a while, and retorque to 90 again.

A leakdown test is definitely worth it if you want some piece of mind, but I don't bother with compression tests anymore. I've got 25k on my current motor with no idea what compression started at, nor what it is now. All I know is that it pulls hard and has no hiccups, and that's what matters.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 5 2013, 06:26 AM

About done. Engine will be going back into the car this weekend.
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Posted by: Banken Jun 5 2013, 07:11 AM

Shoulda got fresh rings~ hehehe...

Posted by: s12drifter Jun 5 2013, 08:19 AM

I find it funny everyone use's the same engine stand hahaha! good stufff!!! love the suburu smell in here <3

Posted by: Spaz Jun 5 2013, 07:38 PM

QUOTE (s12drifter @ Today, 11:19 AM)

love the suburu smell in here <3

I dunno, to me it just smells a little bit... Flat.

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Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Jun 5 2013, 07:43 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 4 minutes, 44 seconds ago)

I dunno, to me it just smells a little bit... Flat.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/cmspaz/28508658_zps4d7dc70e.jpg~original

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Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 17 2013, 06:29 AM

And the car is up and running

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 20 2013, 07:44 AM

Looks like I installed one of the hoses at the incorrect spot. I'm at work so I can't look at my engine. Would anyone know where the other end of this hose connects too please that connects to the Intake Manifold?

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What I did wrong was I connected the hose on the right side of this piece to the Intake manifold which is incorrect.
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Not sure where the hose that connects to this piece would belong too.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 23 2013, 08:39 PM

Round 2 having to pull the engine back out. Purchasing a Rallispec block tomorrow. Will finally be able to practice on the track more and get better.

Posted by: biggamehit Jun 23 2013, 08:55 PM

Nice setup bro

Posted by: Spaz Jun 24 2013, 08:00 AM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ Yesterday, 11:39 PM)

Round 2 having to pull the engine back out. Purchasing a Rallispec block tomorrow. Will finally be able to practice on the track more and get better.

Oh jeez, what happened now?

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 24 2013, 12:03 PM

Thursday last week when I started the car up it did not sound healthy at all. Everything was double checked and everything looked great.

I took the car in to a Shop to have a down leak test and we found out my sleeves pretty much were not holding pressure. Cylinder 3&4 were at 70 which is extremely low and cylinders 1&2 were at 105 which is still low.

After talking to the shop for a couple of hours we decided getting the Rallispec block will be the best thing to do for a track car. I could rebuild mine but rather get a new block Cosworth built.

Posted by: Spaz Jun 24 2013, 05:21 PM

QUOTE (FC_spec @ 5 hours, 17 minutes ago)

Ouch... Did you recheck your studs after the first couple heat cycles? I've never been told to, or bothered to, but just recently a buddy of mine warped a composite HG the first time the motor was ever boosted, and the studs on one cylinder came up at half the torque they should have been. I will be retorquing mine from now on, starting with when I do my upcoming head gasket job.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 24 2013, 10:26 PM

When I take the block back out ill check the torque specs to see if they lost anf ft/lbs. I most likely will be re-torquing them as well after a heat cycle to be safe when the new block arrives.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jun 26 2013, 12:57 PM

Here we go
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Posted by: Spaz Jun 27 2013, 06:38 PM

Legit.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jul 18 2013, 08:27 PM

Finally got the motivation I needed to get me to work on the car again.
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Ralli spec block!!
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Picture I took before taking the engine back out
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Posted by: Spaz Jul 19 2013, 09:01 AM

Yay motivation.

Seems like a lot of us are lacking that right now, I think it's just that it's smack dab in the middle of the season and we're all neck deep in huge, expensive projects on our race cars...

I could have squared a lot of things away last night, for example, but I settled for 6 beers, 3 episodes of Dr. Who, and 2 movies.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Jul 29 2013, 09:08 PM

That's good you're getting things done with the Evo, should be more beast when it's done. Glad you created a page on FB!

I got some work done today on the subie, the heads will come off tomorrow so I can take them to the shop to have the valves inspected and the block as well.

sexy...
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My old block with the heads still on. Tomorrow they will be off
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Posted by: Spaz Jul 30 2013, 04:36 AM

Yays, new bottom ends are always a good feeling.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 3 2013, 04:39 PM

Last race of the season was last week.

New Cosworth engine is fully broken in and feels great! I got 2 new sponsorship's to help me out for next year. My internship "Ziptie Dynowerks" decided to hire me full time to help and it has helped me out so much especially if I plan on doing this expensive hobby. Next year we plan on going to GTA "Global time attack".

Car is back in the garage on jack stands. I got someone to buy my 18x8 +35 RPF-1's and im picking up some new RPF-1's 18x9.5 to run a wider tire. I will be focusing on aero and losing more weight on the car and hopefully get it to around 3200lbs or lower with me in it. I got some other plans for the car but over all i'm happy to see my car back up and running.

First day getting it back up and running
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Getting ready to head out to the track.
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Eff you splitter. I'll get you fixed during winter.
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Posted by: Spaz Nov 3 2013, 08:05 PM

Awesome update! Sounds like you had a solid finish to the season, and I'm looking forward to the changes to come.

Though I do have a hard time wrapping my head around the car being more than 3200lbs, mine was right there fully wet and occupied, and the only major things that affected that were the exhaust, rotating assembly, and clutch. I also deleted a bunch of random stupid brackets and things in the engine bay, including around 6 or 7 lbs of emissions trash.

Posted by: Banken Nov 4 2013, 12:17 AM

Wow, that looks really cool... so want to drive that.

I WISH my MR2 had a new lower end right now (piston #2 is basically dead).

Are you wheel to wheel or time attack?

FWIW, Spaz, almost every performance mod ends up adding weight to the car, and most lightweight parts reduce weight less than you expect (depending on the stock parts of course), so unless you completely strip the interior and remove every ounce of extra weight (hours and hours of work to remove every last bit of sound deadening for example) a street-focused tuner car usually ends up either weighing more, or at best, about the same as a stock car (not including things like taking the rear seats, spare, and jack out).

Actually, about the only go-fast mods that don't add at least a little bit of weight are the exhaust (but only if carefully chosen) and lightweight flywheel.

Of course, if you take care of the ounces, the pounds will take care of themselves...

Posted by: Spaz Nov 4 2013, 06:12 AM

I don't disagree. Then again, adding a FMIC to a Subaru isn't just 30 or 40 lbs, as you're doing all the piping too. That bit admittedly did slip my mind.

Though my car DID come in at 3050 by itself on the scale, 3200 with me in it.

Posted by: Banken Nov 4 2013, 06:22 AM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 9 minutes, 24 seconds ago)

So...like, 30 pounds less than stock?

Posted by: Spaz Nov 4 2013, 08:55 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ Today, 9:22 AM)

So...like, 30 pounds less than stock?

If it were JDM, yes. USDM had increased reinforcement in the doors and notably heavier crash beams, among a few other things. ~3200 wet, unoccupied was where it weighed in stock.

Posted by: Banken Nov 5 2013, 04:39 AM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 7 hours, 44 minutes ago)

If it were JDM, yes. USDM had increased reinforcement in the doors and notably heavier crash beams, among a few other things. ~3200 wet, unoccupied was where it weighed in stock.

Then besides exhaust and emissions, how did you get it so light?

Posted by: Lonely_Driver Nov 5 2013, 05:09 AM

Cars looking great, anxious to see what you have in store for next season!

Posted by: Spaz Nov 5 2013, 10:03 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 5 hours, 23 minutes ago)

Then besides exhaust and emissions, how did you get it so light?

Bunch of useless brackets disappeared with those, and a few other jobs. Iron brackets. The stock exhaust is also pretty heavy in comparison to the Buschur unit (The lightest stainless exhaust available)... Lots of small stuff that added up.

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Nov 5 2013, 01:15 PM

The car is looking awesome! I'm glad its up and running strong! Do you have any videos of it in action?

Posted by: Banken Nov 5 2013, 03:38 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 5 hours, 35 minutes ago)

That still only accounts for like, 100 pounds at most.

Did you weigh the car at stock?

Posted by: Spaz Nov 5 2013, 08:37 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 4 hours, 59 minutes ago)

That still only accounts for like, 100 pounds at most.

Did you weigh the car at stock?

Didn't buy it completely stock and it had been modded and reverted to very close to... All it had was an intake and fuel pump. Not sure what else disappeared that I hadn't touched.

Posted by: Lonely_Driver Nov 7 2013, 09:22 AM

Just some questions about the shortblock.

What made you decide to go with Rallispec and why street rather then race.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 25 2013, 09:44 AM

I didn't get any footage these last races unfortunately

For the class i'm in I don't really need that much power. Many of my friends who race out on track with me that own Subaru's have purchased the Rallispec block and have had great luck with them. I thought I would give it a try instead of rebuilding it which I will do if once this one blows up

Hopefully this engine holds another good race season before I sell it. I will be selling my car and be picking up a Mazda Formula Pro by 2015.
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Photo credit goes to my friend Justin from Raceco

Posted by: Banken Nov 26 2013, 12:04 AM

What, whaaaat?

...so jealous...

But for the same amount of money you could probably buy a used D Sports Racer and a shit-ton of spare parts (or even two cars), which in the end would be much cheaper to run. Not to mention they are one of the most popular race classes in the US, and one of the fastest.

A carbon monocoque is also much easier to total beyond repair, although generally faster and safer. Basically, any race car with a lot of carbon fiber parts is going to cost a ton of money to race.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Mar 17 2015, 10:07 AM

Helloooo,
Been over a year since I have updated my thread, I plan to get on here more often and update my racecar thread throughout race season.

A lot has happened to my car since I last posted, I added a full Nasa/FIA approved rollcage, car is completely gutted now except for some cables behind the dash which i plan to take out when I have time, not really a priority right now. FINALLY got rid of the wrx 4pots (got tired of brake issues at the track) and got rebuilt Brembos and i'll be running the Reybestos ST47 brake pads, also I got ride of my 18x8 RPF1's and got 18x9.5 for more grip.

Last year I finished all my Nasa HPDE classes and I became and instructor which is badass, I love driving with rookies and showing them the proper raceline, braking points, proper entering and exiting the turns. Since I finished all my HDPE classes i'm in the competitive class and i'll be doing Time Trial, i'll be in TT3 class where there is a lot of competition.

My first race is the following Saturday (March 28-29) hopefully I can see improvement with my roll cage since it will stiffen up the chassis and the new brake kit should feel alot better than my last set up.

Here's my new race license to be able to run Time trial

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Took this picture during winter when I was getting the car ready for the roll cage
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Getting the race alignment done
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New Brembos that got rebuilt and wider RPF1 wheels.
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Took the car to Ziptie Dynowerks last week to get the car tuned and ready for the race. They also changed my rear diff and front transmission fluid to fresh Motul fluid.
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Car is sitting now in the garage and waiting for March 28 for it's first time trial race.
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Posted by: backalleyracer Mar 17 2015, 09:13 PM

exciting stuff! Good to see you out there and congrats on the licenses.

Good luck out there, its great to see people putting the time and energy into making a real track car

Posted by: Spaz Mar 18 2015, 08:42 AM

So much sexy in here now. Love it.

Good to see that you're still at it, my season starts that same weekend and I'm frantically trying to get everything back together for it.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 1 2015, 09:24 AM

Nasa round 1 was last weekend:

I dropped my car off at the track Friday morning, I had to get my Nasa tech inspection and everything went well. The next day on race day the car didn't feel like i would want it to handle at all, i had a bunch of over steer and my ABS light came on and so I raced both days without ABS which hurt my time by a lot since i'm not used to racing without ABS and i didn't want any flat spots on my slicks. I know what needs to be done to get the car running where I want it to be so I can do much better in April.

Thinking it's also time to sell the Subaru so I can start focusing on Mazda open wheel racing which will be a better chance for me to get to higher levels if the opportunity is given to me, Open wheel racing is also a lot cheaper in the long run. Still not 100% sure, still thinking about it and talking to people so will see what happens before I post it up for sale.

For now i'll continue to fix my car and hopefully do much better in April

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Posted by: Spaz Apr 2 2015, 08:14 AM

Well... I think you got flat spots anyway.

Looks like fun! I had a blast at TMS and can't wait to get back out on track again. This weekend I'm taking a break but the following two weekends have an event each that I might go run at.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 3 2015, 12:47 AM

Haha right? I took a look at the tires and they should be fine, I'll rotate them fot sure.

One of the photographer's at the track made a video

YOUTUBE ( https://youtu.be/rIw7T4wL7lM )

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 6 2017, 04:16 PM

Well hello IDWF. Been a while since i have been here. A lot has changed in the last 2 years but i won't be going too much into detail.

Pretty much what happened in 2015 Race season. August arrived and it was Outter loop and on the last session of the day after the car had been feeling great, on a turn called " Witch craft " i decided to take the turn 10mph faster than what i normally take it and something on the rear end gave up and made me over steer 180 and there was nothing i could do about it honestly. So i spun out and i was like f#ck i spun out, but it this time i didn't stop sliding, i kept moving towards the wall at about 80mph and i hit it hard. I sat in the car and made sure not smoke was from flames and i pulled my fire extinguisher still just to be safe. I saw the red flag so i knew everyone was at complete stop and the nearest station. When i got out i was so bummed to see my car destroyed after so many years and hours of working on it late night. The ambulance arrived and took me to the local track clinic and they checked me out and i was okay for the most part.

After leaving the clinic they told me my car was in front the garage i rented out at the track. Oh man, when i saw my car i started to cry no joke. Everyone was trying to cheer me up and i told them this is not over, the first thing i did was write on the car "I'll be back" and i told my friends and family there that the car will be back better than ever and sure enough i am back this year....

If you have any questions please ask

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Some of the aftermath...
user posted image

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Posted by: Spaz Apr 6 2017, 07:05 PM

Holy shit dude... I knew you stuffed it, but damn. Turn 22-23 at Miller? That photo at the wall is just insane. Nose first and spun the tail in, looks like? Honestly surprised you didn't roll, but then again everyone who saw my similar wreck said the same thing.

You always leave pieces behind when you hit the wall. You crack, you break, part of you falls off, just like the car. The car always comes back better, or you build the next one better. You can do the same for yourself, so long as you let those lost pieces be the ones that were slowing you down. Open up and learn from it and you'll only go faster from here.

Posted by: Nomake Wan Apr 6 2017, 08:00 PM

That photo of hitting the wall is surreal, holy fuck.

Also what's the story behind that Mustang?

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Apr 6 2017, 08:14 PM

QUOTE (Nomake Wan @ 14 minutes, 2 seconds ago)

That photo of hitting the wall is surreal, holy fuck.

Also what's the story behind that Mustang?

I'm not sure exactly what happened with the Mustang but i heard when he came into the pits the wheel came off and hit another car. I just liked how it shows my car and my pit crew