| Printable Version of Topic
Click here to view this topic in its original format |
| Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Initial D Arcade Stage > IDA7AAX - gameplay? |
| Posted by: Kazumie_leaf Aug 27 2014, 09:32 AM |
| hey guys so i was on the foums and didnt notcie a ida7aax thread. i just started playing it and wow what a difference. in my town we only had idav3 so its deffenitally a shocker. so i made a card and am having a blast but sadly it is all in japanesse so figuring out the menus was a bit difficult. if any one has screen shots of the menus and could give an english translation so when i go to play agian i know exactly what i am doing that would be great. also game play wise im notcing my main car MR-S (ZZW30) is lacking a little when it is comming to connering I'm only in spec 2 for upgrades but it seems like im downshifting and upshifting a lot. compared to v3 is this normal? or has the technique for ida7aax changed that much? maybe this one is for admins. could we get a ida7aax thread that would be cool to. for those in western canada CHQ in metro mall downtown vancouver is where ida7aax and idav4 can be found ! thanks everyone also im posting a picture of my card as by looking at it you can see im not that far yet as i had to leave:( right now i just beat joshomia (god hand) that was a really fun race  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 2048. https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10562558_10154507564735545_4945935718893158008_o.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Aug 27 2014, 05:13 PM |
| Your car feels really weak in 7AAX until Spec 4 is complete where at Spec 5 the gameplay is dramatically changed. There is a pinned thread called ID7AAX? ,and CHQ took out Version 7AAX, probably looking for a good deal on 8/Infinity (also CHQ is NOT in downtown Vancouver). |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 30 2014, 01:05 AM |
| It isn't completely all the menus but should be good enough. After inserting coins and card, you'll see this start menu here and have a few options:  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. http://imageshack.com/a/img537/8177/ImKLGn.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. If you choose settings:  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. http://imageshack.com/a/img540/7360/kniYK6.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. May have mixed up Rival Voice and Map here, I always forget that one. "Steering" refers to steering sensitivity. Force Quit refers to the ability to quit any single player mode like Story and Time Attack. This is done by pressing Start and View Change at the same time in a race. By default this is turned off. Regardless of whether you chose Garage, Records or Settings, you'll be directed to the main menu afterwards. Main Menu/Game Menu:  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. http://imageshack.com/a/img908/6364/7p6h1s.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. Tag and In-Store are relatively straightforward plus I do not have pictures of them. If you choose single player, you'll be directed to..... Main Single Player Menu (Story, Time Attack, Online Battle, Event):  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. http://imageshack.com/a/img537/3610/nfCZvM.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. Since your country doesn't have online features available in this game, Online Battle and Events would be greeted out. ======= Post Race Menu (for most modes):  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. http://imageshack.com/a/img912/1890/scupUz.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. Post Race Menu (Time Attack)  Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. http://imageshack.com/a/img538/865/6awCR6.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. Goes without saying that you'll need to insert more money to continue playing after a race is done. This is also the case if you want to go back to Main Menu. Also I apparently wrote Game Menu and Main Menu to refer to the same thing (screen where you get to choose the game modes). I'm kinda lazy to change it now but it would be referring to the same thing in this case. Also I didn't translate anything, just wrote what each menu does. |
| Posted by: N643 Sep 4 2014, 01:46 AM | ||
i dont think they will be getting 8 as it needs to be online, but i might be wrong on that also CHQ is in metrotown which is in burnaby |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 4 2014, 02:07 AM | ||
Some US arcades have it (and we have users on this forum that frequent these arcades), and they don't have online. Online is required for card transfer though, so for the arcades that don't have online they cannot transfer card data from D7. |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 5 2015, 08:55 PM |
| Is there a trick to beating bunta in the "legend chapter" on nagao downhill? I should probably just work on getting my time below 325, but I feel like the only section that matters is the last, 4 Thanks for any advice! |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 6 2015, 01:13 AM |
| Probably no trick, you just need to be faster than a certain point. I think all you need to do is just use downshifting to tackle the corners and not bother that much with brakes. Not the fastest way to play but it should be good enough. Section 4 shouldn't be too hard. It's mostly just one straight away. Downshifting in the corners here should be an easy and good enough method perhaps? |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 6 2015, 09:14 PM | ||
It didnt seem like a trick to beat him, but he definitely acts different if you let him get the lead around the end of section 3 or 4. If youre behind him he goes into super beast mode and smokes you. I beat him by alot when I only ran a 3'20 (don't make fun of me I just started playing the game 2 weeks ago) and before when I was running a 3'25 and letting him get ahead of me in the 3rd and 4th section, he beat me by way more than 5 seconds. Do you know which map bunta races you for the 2nd race in the legendary chapter? I'm almost at a full tank and want to know what course I need to practice. Is there a 3rd race and so on? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 6 2015, 10:01 PM |
| There's like a lot of races with him, there's a list somewhere in this forum but I keep forgetting where it is. A few months ago I asked for the list and somebody posted a link to a post that shows it, |
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Jan 6 2015, 10:34 PM | ||
It's really difficult to find by search, but here it is again https://idforums.net/index.php?showtopic=46260&st=0# |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 7 2015, 01:30 PM |
| Thank you so much guys! |
| Posted by: joesushi Jan 10 2015, 09:39 PM |
| I figured this might be a good place to post this, At Nanuet Arcade one of the ID7 cabinets takes longer to load the main menu after a player inserts their card/play without a card. This does not seen to happen if another player accepts a 1v1 race. Here are the screens of the messages. (Images have been reuploaded to imgur.) http://imgur.com/FmCvM7m Image size reduced, original size: 2937 x 2203. http://i.imgur.com/FmCvM7m.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. This would display for some time. The 90 second timer does not start immeditely and once it does start (about a minute later) it runs all the way to zero. Then this appears: http://imgur.com/kuGul61 Image size reduced, original size: 2937 x 2203. http://i.imgur.com/kuGul61.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. My assumption is it is looking for some type of connection, even though it (and the other cabinets) are offline. Might be something within the machine options. In a related question, 2v2 local between two cabinets should be possible, right? (sorry if this has been asked before, just wanted to confirm this) |
| Posted by: Falbere Jan 10 2015, 10:25 PM | ||
Pics are down. Use imgur.com Edit: Nevermind. You were using the wrong image links |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 12 2015, 10:17 PM |
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtXBgyoBeps In this video there seems to be a simplified version of the meters and I Was wondering if this is a setting in the game or if this is just with the prius. Im also finding it very difficult to locate time attack videos on yourtube for initial D 7 aa. IS there a phrase or word I should be searching for? I have a full tuned hatch back 86 and I wanted to see what I could do to improve my times. Thanks again!! |
| Posted by: Falbere Jan 12 2015, 11:47 PM | ||
Prius. Because fuel economy is everything  Search for "TA" |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 13 2015, 06:35 AM | ||
 |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 13 2015, 09:01 AM |
| What is the best car in the rain? Kinda hard to find info on it since theres no rain Tiime attacks, but was just trying to get everyone opinion. What cars have the best take offs at the start line when theyre fully tuned? I have a 3rd car slot on my card and Im almost done full tuning my GDBA |
| Posted by: Falbere Jan 13 2015, 06:13 PM | ||
DUUUUUUD SICK PRIUS |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 14 2015, 05:15 AM | ||
Don't think there's much difference between wet or dry. But if you have best performance questions, the answer is usually "any AE86". |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 20 2015, 10:05 PM |
| Ive searched the internet and I've searched this site, does anyone have any idea where I could find a guide or a walk through to link up multiple cabinets for initial D 7? Or even someone kind of contact from sega to help with a walkthrough ? Thanks in advance! |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 21 2015, 03:50 AM |
| Well there was a person here who actually owned some D6/D7 machines. I'm sure that person is knowledgable about it. rallyarmor I believe) You should PM him or see whether there are other ways to contect him if he doesn't respond to this since I haven't seen him post here in a bit. But first off you'll need one of those black server boxes. |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 21 2015, 08:05 AM | ||
yeah, they have the server boxes, and at one point machine one and two were linked, then it somehow become unlinked. Thanks for the info, im gonna try to reach out to rally armor |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 27 2015, 10:18 PM |
| So I was looking for information regarding the differences between the final engine upgrades for the ae86 and I came across this thread https://idforums.net/index.php?showtopic=43987 I just want to confirm, so it doesnt make a difference what engine you pick for the 86? theyre all good? can anyone find a thread that explores the differences a little deeper? I'm kinda in denial that it does almost nothing. I full tuned the 3 door 86 with takumi's engine, and I'm close to finishing a 2 door 86 but was thinking about going witht eh turbo or super charger. Thanks in advance! |
| Posted by: Falbere Jan 27 2015, 11:24 PM | ||
The 3 options are known for not really having much difference, in terms of gameplay. The biggest difference is still the sound of the engine. Even if there is a difference, the difference must had been so small that nobody in the entire community noticed any difference. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 28 2015, 03:03 AM |
| As someone who two 3-door AE86Ts with different upgrades, yes there's very little difference; if any. I reckon they'll have to create a seperate category for each upgrade in the TA rankings if there's a big difference anyways. Aside from the sound, the other thrill of having the racing engine one is the tachometer. Seriously that thing gives me a confidence boost. Personally, I wish there was a difference if only to make each one more unique and give more weight to the upgrade decision. |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 28 2015, 08:46 PM |
| Awesome, I'll probably go for the turbo to hear the sound of it. Thanks again!! Actually, im having trouble finding information on the handling settings for the car once its full tuned, can anyone show me a good thread or link me to some information. I wanna know what is best for usui, right now on the default setting, I am running 250 on the downhill. would a more stable setting improve my time? Thanks in advance! |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 30 2015, 08:53 AM |
| Actually, im having trouble finding information on the handling settings for the car once its full tuned, can anyone show me a good thread or link me to some information. I wanna know what is best for usui, right now on the default setting, I am running 250 on the downhill. would a more stable setting improve my time? Thanks in advance! |
| Posted by: SonicSP Jan 30 2015, 05:29 PM |
| It's really up to your machine condition and personal preference. It's suggested you try out a few different ones to see which one suits your style. But yes, a different setting may indeed improve your time if you happen to like it more. Som spells prefer lighter, some prefer heavier. |
| Posted by: ARMA Jan 30 2015, 09:26 PM | ||
I was at the arcade today and I actually didnt see any option to change the handling settings. I have 3 full tuned cars on my card and pressing the view change button did nothing. |
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Jan 30 2015, 10:44 PM | ||
Insert card -> Select the Options (gear cogs) -> Change the 0-10 bar to personal preference (lower meaning less force feedback) |
| Posted by: ARMA Feb 1 2015, 09:18 PM |
| in a 1v1 battle, can anyone tell me what determines who gets to choose the course?? it seems 100 percent random to me, but there might be something Im missing. Thanks! |
| Posted by: OkamiWind Feb 1 2015, 09:52 PM | ||
I think it is always random, at the start I always seem to have a 50/50 shot of getting it. When I win I sometimes get it and sometimes it transfers to the other person and the same with losing. |
| Posted by: TakeshiSkunk Feb 20 2015, 03:23 PM |
| regarding the engine upgrade on the 86, how is this presented to you in game? I'm working on a 2door 86 and just want to make sure I pick the right one when it comes up, definitely planning to go with the mechanical tune |
| Posted by: OkamiWind Feb 20 2015, 04:49 PM | ||
I believe it's a NA upgrade, turbo, then supercharged upgrade but in the end it does not matter performance wise, it's just an audio upgrade. |
| Posted by: TakeshiSkunk Feb 21 2015, 11:11 PM |
| Got to play a decent amount today, but the cabs were at a convention so I couldn't focus on it quite as much as I would have liked. Partway through spec 4 now. I notice I'm losing a lot of ground in consecutive hairpins. I don't think I lost a race all day but the one place I'd get passed pretty much every time on akina was the sequential hairpins at the end, I'm just wondering what I'm doing wrong, maybe it's just how the boost mechanics act? I do know that everything changes once you hit full tune but still. I'm typically approaching at the top of 4th, going to the outside and braking down to 2nd then throwing it at the apex and letting off the gas, getting back on when I'm facing the exit. Am I just slowing down too much/being too conservative? I also cannot for the life of me figure out the line through the decreasing radius left hander after the first long straight, I see people just keeping it floored through that in replays but I always hit the outside hard when I try that. Lifting off to try and drift always just slams me into the inside wall and just about stops me. Sorry for the wall of text here, just trying to build a better understanding to work from. I figure akina is a solid stage to learn on since I know it so well from battle gear 3. |
| Posted by: OkamiWind Feb 21 2015, 11:38 PM | ||
No that's what I did too, but then again you are in Spec 4 so that does contribute to something. Also it's more or less once you hit Spec 5 that things change. Have you tried using the gutters? Akina is infamous for it... |
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Feb 22 2015, 12:14 AM |
| The engine upgrade will split into another 3 choices where it will show you pictures of the upgrades. In 7aax there was a sound bug with the turbo upgrade on the 2door. So the NA balance should show like 3 tools. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Feb 22 2015, 02:18 AM |
| Things would change a lot once you hit the final box of Spec 4 so I suggest you don't think too hard about mastering the current physics. Like the physics would be very different and there's going to be little to no speed loss while turning. |
| Posted by: ARMA Feb 28 2015, 09:46 PM |
| I had a question about the offline 1v1 battle system in initial D 7. So whenever I battle someone, and they decide to continue and keep battling, after 2 wins a tiny mark comes up under their card name and it says "boost +1" Does this effect the game play when you turn the boost off? We always play with the boost turned off, but I feel like it gets harder and harder to catch him the more consecutive wins I have (because he always wins at the launch/start so im always chasing) Any opinions or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
| Posted by: TakeshiSkunk Mar 23 2015, 12:23 PM |
| I got to put in another solid session and got my 86 tuned up within 2 parts of FT. I'm still struggling to understand the physics of this game and was hoping someone could just break down how the BC should be used/how to properly take a corner at speed. I have Silvers on pretty much every TA I run and still feel very slow. (I got a gold on Iroha somehow? Feels like the requirements on that course must be exceptionally lenient) So I understand that the brake cancel is the most important tech in this game, I've seen some videos explaining it and watched a lot of replays in an attempt to understand how it's used but it still isn't clicking for me. I don't understand exactly what the BC itself does to the cars handling, I feel like I'm just blindly trying to copy techniques with no understanding of why each part of it is performed. It was the same way for me in v3 until someone very specifically broke down a corner for me step by step and then it sort of clicked. I find myself downshifting too much and doing a lot more braking than people seem to use in TA videos I'm seeing. I'm also very rarely going to full lock steering whereas I see people hitting it on almost every corner during fast runs. If anyone could help me to better understand this I'd be extremely appreciative, we've gone without a machine in this area for so long that there isn't really any community around here at all. |
| Posted by: ARMA Mar 23 2015, 01:55 PM |
| What maps are you specifically looking to work on? Ive recently learned this game so the ideas are fresh in my head, hopefully I can help. What I tell the guys in my area to do first is run MYOGI (third map) because this map will teach you how to break cancel, and keep your speed up. Myogi has mostly high speed brake cancel requirements and IMO these types of Brake cancels are the easiest to learn. When you brake cancel, do it in this order, First: full lock turn second: right as youre coming to full lock turn, let go of the gas, and brake (quickly!) third: quickly "play with the gas" (this is where you control if the brake cancel is high speed or lower speed) If you slam on the gas, this is a high speed brake cancel, and youre going to do these on most of the hairpins on myogi OR when youre entering really slow, but still need to brake cancel to get a good exit speed. I hope this helped! Feel free to ask questions, and maybe I can help you better with a video |
| Posted by: TakeshiSkunk Mar 23 2015, 02:36 PM |
| Hmm I think I've been trying to BC right as I begin to turn in and then go full lock afterward, which just understeers me straight into the wall. Is the idea of the BC that you initiate understeer in the direction of the corner and then the BC kicks you into a drift? And how should shifting play into the sequence? I've also noticed that most corners are done off throttle in TA replays I've seen, do you generally just stay off until youre lined up with the exit completely? The course I've been focusing on the most is Akagi, it's been my favorite for a while. I feel pretty fast running it in older games but 7 makes me feel like I've never driven it before haha. Thanks for the response, I really appreciate you helping out! On an unrelated note, I'm going to be playing a fair amount of 8 during the first weekend of april, I'm taking a trip out to Round 1 in Chicago with a friend. Will the same techniques work more or less or is 8 drastically different from 7? |
| Posted by: ARMA Mar 23 2015, 08:55 PM | ||
AKagi IMO is the hardest course to grasp the idea of break canceling, If you look at really really high level akagi TA's, they do a "double break cancel" Check out this video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKqzlUjjVp0&list=PL0f645SUFgo3MpEqZUGWUcTVtqKn4mlCs&index=12 On akagi you need to double brake cancel certain turns, however I still havent mastered it, and I ran a 240 without doing it, so I need to cut the last 10 seconds by doing it. What you need to pay attention is the double brake cancel on the first left hairpin. Then pay attention to how the driver brake cancels the tighter hairpins in third gear. This is your average brake cancel technique, very early with a late cut. the technique is to full turn lock, let go of gas and brake, full gas, and then let go of gas one more time. When you let it go the "one more time" THATS when the car really whips into the turn. It also brings you to a great playlist that shows the highest level of play on almost every course. Also look at the rest of the playlist |
| Posted by: SonicSP Mar 24 2015, 01:57 AM |
| It takes awhile to get the hang of the real physics of the game. I remembered struggling quite a bit as well as the physics changed while tuning my car in D7. BC is important in D7, however don't be afraid to to just revert to a simple downshift and just use accel taps. They may not be optimal techniques all the time but they're a great way to learn things while you learn more advanced techniques slowly. |
| Posted by: TakeshiSkunk Mar 24 2015, 10:50 AM |
| Really appreciate all the input. Gonna check out all of these videos, it's really helpful having the steering wheel in the shot as well. I'm frustrated I can't go try this stuff out immediately haha. Hopefully I'll get word about the cabs going in pretty soon so I can get into a regular routine of playing. |
| Posted by: ARMA Aug 13 2015, 06:11 PM |
Can someone give me a hand or translation for this code? Its on 2 out of the 4 machines at nanuet and i have no idea why.  Image size reduced, original size: 3984 x 2241. http://i.imgur.com/gRUpf6D.jpg to view the image in its original dimension. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 13 2015, 08:48 PM |
| Google Translate: カード ユニット リーニング MEMA 口 から クリーニング カード を 挿入 し て ください "Please insert the cleaning card from the card unit cleaning MEMA opening" Not sure where the MEMA part is correct though it's possible that the app just turned it into alphanumerals from the original text when it scanned the photo. But whatever it is, it's related to the card reader unit. If this translation is correct, it's dirty and you need to enter the cleaning card to clean the memory card reader unit. |
| Posted by: DK_Brawler Aug 13 2015, 11:47 PM | ||
Woah, a scanning app? What is the program? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 14 2015, 02:22 AM | ||
| Okay last time I translated the whole thing in one go, this time I did the two sentence seperately and I think it looks better: [カード ユニット リーニング] MEMA 口 から クリーニング カード を 挿入 し て ください [Kādo yunitto rīningu] MEMA-guchi kara kurīningu kādo o sōnyū chicken 'n wafflese kudasai [Card unit cleaning] Please insert the cleaning card from MEMA opening ======
Google Translate app, available for free on iOS and Android. It will scan pictures for you and translate them. Then it will give you the original text it "saw" on the picture, how to pronounce the text as well as the translation. Japanese is one of the languages where photo translation is available. It's scanning isn't perfect all the time but works well enough to be useful. The best part is that you can take the Japanese text it scans and copy paste it to other machine translation services if you want to see their interpretation. The scanning is a pretty good feature because you can use it with just about any other translation service. Do note that it requires an online connection when you translate it. If you want an offline Japanese photo translator, there is one called Waygo that I used on my trip to Japan but it's not as good and a lot harder to use relatively and it costs a few bucks. There's also a Bing translation app that came out recently but I have not tested that one. |
| Posted by: Akii Aug 14 2015, 02:50 AM |
| Google Translate problems lol. Just insert in a cleaning card (if you have one), or just insert in your own ID card (not really recommended) or a disused card/blank card into the card reader. Then wait for a while, let the machine do its thing, then the card will eject back out |