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Yeah, I feel the same problem with DInput where in consecutive hairpins, after getting opposite lock on the first one I have to brake excessively to fix the understeer into the next one. Same thing happens in V2/V3 when you do TST/eraser into a hairpin then try to turn the other way right after. I'm not sure if this is an emulation problem because like I said I never got the chance to actually play V6, I wish XInput would recognize my wheel so I could see if it made a difference.

should i throw out all the stuff i know from extreme stage? i already noticed alot of turns i have brake at now and im still getting used to drifting mechanic

Still trying hard ~ sometime the brake cancel doesnt trigger the gold drift not sure why~ not every brake cancel can get it to drift~ using g27~

but i tried on dualshock 3 it was immediate trigger~

Most of it yes, except penalty cancel. You'll need that to initiate drifts.

Basically each new IDAS game starting with 4 wil revamp the physics after each version, so we would have to learn how to play it again.

would be nice if arcade stage 5 got dumped too, from the videos i watched it had he best eurobeat soundtrack plus i wanted to try out physics that game had too

IIRC, it got dumped but no one has made a Lindbergh emulator which potentially only runs on Linux even if one was made

Since TeknoParrot is actually a loader and not an emulator...

In the past, some emulators, such as PCSX2 (PS2 Emulator), virtual machines the entire operating system the console/arcade board holds.

If anybody was to start a project to bring Lindbergh games to the PC, I can see that the emulation could either be done with virtualization of a linux environment inside your Windows PC, or as a form of a loader (similar to TeknoParrot) that limits to Windows 10 and above, which can receive the ability to run the linux subsystem inside Windows itself.

Ah my good old friend Carpel Tunnel Syndrome from D6 days, welcome back.

I don't know where you were in D7 and D8, but you can't resist returning for anything D6 related can you?

It's gonna be just like the old days, filled with numbness and me regretting playing too much. Except this time without the money factor.

I just remembered it perhaps as I was relearning this game.

But I would just do a quick BC early on before the corner, quick turn and then counter-turn the wheel back to original position then slide through the corner. It's mostly about initiation it early.

Make sure the wheel turn and your footwork is initiated at the same time, That's key to initiating it, even the first minor corner one second after you start Nagao DH for example is Gold Driftable.

Also stay in 2-3rd gear for the sharp continues turns since those are the optimal speeds for taking advantage of the gold drift acceleration. You should be able to gold drift most if not all of the Nagao ones. Controlling the drift to not crash is another matter though, but getting the good angles does require timing the start of the drift well.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 20 2017, 11:15 AM

has anyone made a file that has every racers tuned car parts? i mainly want the S15 to look like hiroya's S15 in 5th stage

Do it yourself. There is a clear video demonstrating how it works.

My best Akina DH run so far..Using Dualshock 4 controller..

This post has been edited by euroshift on Jul 23 2017, 02:37 AM

Recording of Tsukuba OB TA with Dualshock 4 controller

Speaking of which, maybe it's a good idea to have a D6 Post Your Video thread? Since people are starting to post their personal runs and all and it's much easier to record on a PC than an arcade machine.

Even I started recording my runs lately - though there's some kinks I need to work out in the hotkeys cos sometimes it doesn't activate when I press the button. Once I start not posting the wrong runs to the wrong videos, maybe I'll start posting mine too.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 25 2017, 11:44 PM

Nagao DH using G25 wheel. I also inserted the control input for pedals and wheel into the video at the bottom right. Not as beautiful as the ones in D7/D8 but it works. Also available in 60FPS

I use the clutch pedal as my brake, since the brake pedal is too close to the accelerator for my liking. That's why I have to use that thing as my brake indicator.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 28 2017, 04:50 AM

That overlay had been super helpful. It made me realize how shit my BC is, I step on the brakes way too long and relies too much on the brakes to turn my car instead of using the steering like i should be. The timing for the BC is also a lot earlier than I thought it was.

Thanks for the tutorial/video.

No problem, I'm just glad someone found it useful.

Trying to get back to the 2'47 or so I was able to do back in the day.

Always liked input overlays in gameplay videos, so nice to finally figure out a way to put mine in my videos, at least for D6 PC.

====••

Trying to find a 3rd party program that can show the steering and pedal output better. Right now I'm just using the default Windows Game Controllers. Works well enough but if I can make the clutch output look like the accel meter, that would be better.

Maybe even show the real wheelrotation just like real life too, since I'm using 540 degrees end to end setting but the output translates and displays this as 180 meters end to end (accurate from a percentage and input point of view, just that the current display makes it like I'm doing a lot less work steering the wheel that I actually am).

Tried to find one online but no dice so far.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 28 2017, 11:42 AM

Mind posting your logitech game profiler settings? I'm using the one from the post on the first page for my driving force GT and it doesn't feel quite right

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

I) Biggest thing I can think off is to try adjusting your Degrees of Rotation.

Making it low allows you to turn wheel easier end to end but at the cost of accuracy. Sometimes you really want to turn only to a certain angle without turning too much. This can cause oversteer to happen easier if you're not careful.

On the other hand, making it too high would means that you have to turn the wheel more. This allows you to do more fine turnings but means that you need to turn more to wheel lock and reach maximum turn. This is more tiring.

You'll of course need to experiment and see what settings suits you more. You don't have to pick a nice number, you can just adjust it bit by bit and see what you're comfortable within.

Also keep in mind that not all rotation settings are ideal for all courses. Some courses require you to wheel lock/full turn a lot, while others you just need to turn a little. You might also want to play around with the Sensitivity settings in the Steering Wheel Axis Properties section. I just kept it at default for now since it backfired on me greatly last time I tried it.

The best part the Logitech Profiler is that it's not tied to the loader, so you can adjust it without closing the loader and going through the long initialization phase again. Just keep it open while you play then press CTRL+ALT to cycle to it quickly. This means you can just keep adjusting it again and again till you find one that you like.

I just chose 540 because it's the same as the arcade, I'm okay with it so far. I could optimize it further for each course but I'm too lazy to change it every time.

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II) Also might want to weaken your centering strength if you have it high. I set it to 20% because it's not strong but also helps push the wheel to the center a little bit when I want to counter. I don't think it's "that" much different from 0 though.

The "real" Force Feedback of D6 is actually not available in the loader for now, it's actually much more complex than the basic Logitech centering force that you can setup. The force feedback does help you feel the road better form what I recall.

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III) Also don't play on Teknoparrot 0.7 if you are still there, the wheel is bad at that version. 0.71 improves wheel controls massively, while the latest 0.8 improves it a little bit further than 0.71.

IV) Make sure Full Axis and Reverse Axis are both ticked for brake and accel in the DumbJVSManager settings.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Jul 28 2017, 10:56 PM

Tsubaki Line DH AE86T 3'05"872

I shrunk the brake overlay and aligned it with the wheel and accel one better. Also made the wheel overlay better so it can be seen better.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Aug 1 2017, 02:35 AM

Thanks for the good info, when I get back home i'll try it out! Nice vids also, it's really helpful to see your footwork.

I actualy got the chance to play ID6 this past weekend at Milpitas golfland, one wheel was obviously messed up, the other screen had terrible burn-in. The machines were empty, and I only saw 1 person on the 4 MT5 cabinets my entire time there, it's quite depressing to see my childhood arcade like that. It's hard to even call it an arcade anymore, it was like all ticket redemption games now.

But anyways now that I have the arcade experience to compare and contrast with I think I'll have a lot more fun with the emulator

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

This post has been edited by gns64 on Aug 2 2017, 01:42 PM

No problem, glad you found it helpful.

And yeah I get sad when seeing arcades being run down. Arcades are having problems over here too because of some issues.

Anyways I updated Tsukuba Line DH that's slightly faster than the last one. Thinking of what to do to increase it further. Need to work on the first corner I think for higher max speed going into CP2.

My game seems to be running TOO fast (maybe need a frame limiter)? Anyone know a fix?

could it be your monitor's refresh rate? if you're using a 144hz monitor you'd need to set it to 60Hz.

As Jon said, most likely your monitor, set it to 60Hz.

Some other games like the PC version of Vanquish, also suffer from similar issues. Their systems are tied to their framerates. In the case of D6, the original hardware was designed to run the game at locked 60 FPS, they likely linked the physics to it as well.

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Video I made for my entry of the Akagi UH TA Event on the Discord community.

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Aug 5 2017, 07:55 AM

Hey guys check out my legit Myogi DH done with stock Trueno AE86, theory is 46 seconds.

(Trying to trouble shoot speed issue with my 60Hz) EDIT: Forced VSYNC on exe

Image size reduced, original size: 1920 x 1080. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

This post has been edited by DK_Brawler on Aug 6 2017, 02:24 AM