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Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Automotive Discussion > Celbii's RedSuns FC3S Build

Posted by: celbii Nov 18 2013, 11:19 AM

Hey everyone,

I'm new to the forums here, but thought this place would be the most fitting for my build. My names David and I am located in OKC. I have always been a rx7 fan, but sold my old low mileage s4 vert about 5 years ago, and still regret it to this day. I just recently purchased a white 88 NA FC3S, bone stock(besides some ghey wheels) and 126k on the orig motor.

My plans are to replicate the early RedSuns FC3S as close as I can. I can tell you right now however encase people want to rag on me for it, but it wont be a 100% replica lol. I plan on keeping the car non turbo, eventually getting it rebuilt next year when I can save up the funds and going with an aggressive street port. I am planning to shoot for 170WHP NA when all is said and done. So replica will mostly be bodywise.

Bad stuff about the car: High mileage, underbody has some pretty decent rust. Ghetto exhaust system, 4 lug, some other random stuff(leaky windshield etc). I need to be patient and try to find a 5 lug rust free parts car so I can swap over to the 5 lug setup, and with that the bigger front brakes since mine is just a base model with the single piston brakes all around. Also with a rust free parts car ill be able to slowly swap over all the suspension and brake lines, etc under the car to some rust free ones and change out bushings at the same time.

So here she sits as I got her a few weeks ago:
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Now that I have my own house, bills, my gf etc, I don't have much money to toss into it like I used to be able to, so progress will be slow. I have already done some random stuff and when I take some pictures ill update it later this week.

Thanks for looking!
David

Posted by: kyonpalm Nov 18 2013, 11:53 AM

FCs are super bueno. Best of luck with the build, and welcome to the forums.

Posted by: THE_HONDA_CG2 Nov 18 2013, 01:41 PM

That is one clean looking FC! I wish you the best of luck with it! Welcome to the forums! I'm looking forward to all the potential updates!

Posted by: Banken Nov 19 2013, 12:52 AM

Strip it and build an E Production race car.

YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO.

Posted by: celbii Nov 19 2013, 06:27 AM

Heh not building an E production race car

I do plan on taking it to our track once I get all the suspension and 5lug/brakes/wheels/tires sorted out.
hallettracing.net/

Just a quick update, Snagged this MOMO race off craigslist yesterday for $40. This will replace my deep dish momo gotham so I can use the race with my quick release.
Sorry for the crap picture
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Its used, and I can't remember the date on the back but I want to say 8-10 yrs old. Once I cleaned it up a bit it was pretty nice though, no real wear or viable damage to the wheel, except on small scratch on the bottom spoke, and a few places where the leather has separated at the seams just barely. All and all a super great deal for $40.

Posted by: Banken Nov 19 2013, 07:04 AM

As someone who has owned two Momo Race wheels on two different cars, it's not a great wheel. The spoke position makes no sense and the leather is slippery when wet.

The REAL Momo racing models in suede, or a deep dish wheel are the only real option... there's no real reason to use a quick detach on a street car. The only reason to use one is to keep your wheel from getting stolen, which is never going to happen, and actually makes your wheel easier to steal (unless you take it inside every time), or because you have a roll cage and race seat and the car hard to get in to. In which case a tilt wheel spacer is way cooler.

You are wasting your time with the five-lug upgrade and wheel upgrades. All you're going to do is add weight to a car that doesn't have enough power to justify upgrading the calipers and rotors. Get some coilovers (with fresh, rebuildable shocks), bushings, and sticky tires, add some camber, and you're good to go. Get an LSD (anything but viscous) if you really want to go fast. An NA FC doesn't need anything wider than 205, or any taller than 16, because it'll just make the car slower.

But to be honest a seat upgrade and harness belts would do you more good than anything else.

Posted by: celbii Nov 19 2013, 07:56 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 52 minutes, 26 seconds ago)

Hey Banken,

First off, thank you for the great feedback!

On the Momo race vs different wheel, what kind of spoke layout would you recommend? And is there any difference between running a deepdish + short hub(My current setup) vs a flat wheel + QR(which I already own) + Short hub, basically placing the wheel in the same spot? I just wanted to switch to a flat wheel since I wasn't a big fan of my deepdish ( momo gotham), plus I would need to buy a wheel spacer to be able to use the horn as the car will still be street driven most of the time its not at the track.

For the 5 lug, My main reason for doing this was because with my base model 4 lug, I have the single piston brakes all the way around, and the 5 lug would let me upgrade to the bigger stock brakes upfront. While the over all goal for the car, 170WHP, isnt that much, wouldn't the brake upgrade still be worth it for track use, or would I really be wasting my time there? Also 5 lug opens me upto alot more wheel options, and while it may not be a power upgrade, and may even have a small negative effect, I would still like to get good looking wheels for the car, probably 17's with 225;s.

And I agree with the seat, I think that would be a great upgrade over the dead stock one that is in there now.

Posted by: Spaz Nov 19 2013, 09:27 AM

You can never have enough stopping power, especially if the track is a possibility.

Posted by: Vortrex Nov 19 2013, 09:40 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 2 hours, 35 minutes ago)

An NA FC doesn't need anything wider than 205, or any taller than 16, because it'll just make the car slower.

A friend of mine has a FC3S S4, I think with Turbo II, but he has 17 inch wheels with 225 front & rear tyres!

Is that overused, I can buy his car for 3500 euro's. (around 4500 dollars)
And did you mean: never get viscious?

Btw, nice FC, now buy Ryousuke bodykit with the nice stickers. And you're good to go!

Posted by: celbii Nov 19 2013, 09:54 AM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 27 minutes, 7 seconds ago)

You can never have enough stopping power, especially if the track is a possibility.

This was my lines of thinking also, especially since I will need to buy a parts car eventually to replace all the rust crap, may as well find one with 5 lug swap.

Posted by: backalleyracer Nov 19 2013, 08:25 PM

I see baken's point, but I do think the 5 lug/TII brakes are a worthy upgrade.

NA rotaries need to be light - extremely light, to be any good. I like to use the rule of thumb of sub 2k lbs for justifying NA 2 rotors; unfortunately FC's are extemely difficult to get that low in weight. You will be tube framing stuff.

But that's in the case of racing, building a car for fun is an entirely different ball game

Just have fun with it

Posted by: Banken Nov 19 2013, 08:46 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ Today, 9:27 AM)

You can never have enough stopping power, especially if the track is a possibility.

...have you ever driven an NA FC? It's slower than a two-door VTEC Civic in a straight line. All he needs is brake lines and pads, since he's driving the lightest version of the FC.

If you've got more brake than tire, you can have too much stopping power. Brake cooling is another issue entirely, but the FC comes with relatively good stock brake ducts (if you don't have fog lights).

FWIW, the stock turbo four-pots are good even on the track to about 450 HP. Past that point and you'll need to upgrade to big brakes (the stock calipers aren't stiff enough).

Another reason to use the four-lugs is because it would be easy to find used racing wheels in sizes appropriate for the power (15"X7").

QUOTE

A friend of mine has a FC3S S4, I think with Turbo II, but he has 17 inch wheels with 225 front & rear tyres! ohmy.gif Is that overused, I can buy his car for 3500 euro's. (around 4500 dollars)
And did you mean: never get viscious?

The 17 inch 225 tires are fine for a turbo (actually 255s and higher on modified FCs), although 16s in the front work just as well (according to someone with an FC race car I know).

Did I say viscious? I meant viscous. Never use a viscous LSD. They are crap.

Posted by: celbii Nov 23 2013, 04:32 PM

Just a quick update of some work i've done to it:
Engine bay overall, its a little dirty and parts are rusty now and not shiny

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This little contraption here allows me to operate my 5th and 6th ports analog style instead of buying rpm switches to do it electronically. Its not the prettiest thing in the world but overall my cost to make it including hoses and everything was probably $30, well worth it for working 5th and 6th ports. It runs off the airpump and you adjust the air dump valve based on the correct rpm (3800) to make it open. Have to remove the ACV and block it off to do this.
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My Bonez intake kit. gives you the adapter and filter. I need to take it off though and oil it since its a K&N and doesn't come pre oiled, luckily I don't drive the car that much so its okay at the moment. Also made some custom brackets for it so I could keep the MAF mounted straight up instead of sideways like the provided brackets mount it. And yes it is missing a hose clamp around it, the filter is a super super makes me rage tight fit and the supplied hose clamp was too small once it was on the maf adapter. One day before it gets too hot i'll try to make a cold air box for it, but for now its fine.
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So today I got the momo race installed, and got my horn to work. The NRG quick release 3.0 that I bought used off ebay was missing the horn contacts plate on one part of it for whatever dumb reason, and I didn't even think of it when I bought it. LUCKILY the momo race I got off craigslist had half a quick release attached to it(He told me he took it out of his wrecked 240 at the yard, but im thinking now it was probably just jacked >_>) and I was able to pull the horn contact plate off of it and install it into my nice quick release, so that random half of a quick release that I thought was just junk turned out to be very damn useful lol.
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I also installed a double din radio a few weeks ago to get rid of the OEM cassette player, and now I can listen to my initial D super euro beats lol! Stock interior overall is very nice, and even though there is a gap above the player it doesn't bother me at all, at least the surround isnt all cracked and falling apart like most of them. I'll fill that in one day.
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I also took off my ACV block off plate today, made a new gasket for it and got the proper sized screws from the hardware store so I don't have long screws with tons of washers sticking out holding it down. It fixed a small vacuum leak I had there.

Took the car out for a spin down a street nearby and it felt awesome, fixed vacuum leak and cold air gave me some nices powa and the car felt great, It will feel even better sometime next year when it gets rebuilt with an aggressive street port

But for now it sleeps far away until I work on it again next week lol.
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Posted by: Banken Nov 23 2013, 06:52 PM

Don't do an aggressive street port without tuning. You'll be wasting your time if you do.

Posted by: celbii Nov 23 2013, 07:18 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 26 minutes, 34 seconds ago)

Don't do an aggressive street port without tuning. You'll be wasting your time if you do.

I'll most likely go with a middle of the road mild one when it comes time.

Posted by: Spaz Nov 23 2013, 10:34 PM

QUOTE (celbii @ 3 hours, 15 minutes ago)

I'll most likely go with a middle of the road mild one when it comes time.

Even then. Rtek.

Posted by: Banken Nov 23 2013, 11:15 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 40 minutes, 45 seconds ago)

Even then. Rtek.

The RTEK is not a great idea. You're better off using a sub-computer that allows PC tuning than a mod chip that uses PDAs you can't even buy any more.

Get a Greddy eManage Ultimate. It's more than powerful enough for ANY level of tuning you have in mind.

You can also use an Apex Power FC for the 1st-gen FD with a few modifications.

Posted by: celbii Nov 24 2013, 12:07 AM

I don't think I need to tune it, i've seen plenty of builds hit higher than what im aiming for without a tune, but it will probably happen later down the road.

Posted by: Banken Nov 24 2013, 05:15 AM

QUOTE (celbii @ 5 hours, 8 minutes ago)

I don't think I need to tune it, i've seen plenty of builds hit higher than what im aiming for without a tune, but it will probably happen later down the road.

...you will never get 170 whp from that engine without tuning.

Never, ever expect to get decent numbers out of any modification without tuning.

Posted by: Spaz Nov 24 2013, 07:44 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 8 hours, 27 minutes ago)

The RTEK is not a great idea. You're better off using a sub-computer that allows PC tuning than a mod chip that uses PDAs you can't even buy any more.

They ARE working on PC software, last I heard. But I do agree that palm-based tuning is far from efficient.

QUOTE (Banken @ 2 hours, 27 minutes ago)

...you will never get 170 whp from that engine without tuning.

Never, ever expect to get decent numbers out of any modification without tuning.

This.

Posted by: celbii Nov 24 2013, 10:28 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 5 hours, 13 minutes ago)

...you will never get 170 whp from that engine without tuning.

Never, ever expect to get decent numbers out of any modification without tuning.

I would argue with that as there are dyno sheets out there of people untuned hitting 180-190, but that indeed does not mean I will. Either way it will just boil down to what my builder says, if he wants to tune it then ill get a tuning system and we will tune it. I'll eventually end up doing it anyways to get extra power and safely, but I need to get the engine out, save up money for the rebuild + porting work and some other stuff we are going to do, then get it back in the car and up and running before I buy any tuning stuff. So I do agree tuning is the best way to hit my goals and to do it safely, but it will be after engine is back in and running.

Posted by: Banken Nov 24 2013, 03:24 PM

QUOTE (celbii @ 4 hours, 55 minutes ago)

There is no freaking way. A stock ECU from the 80s is not capable of compensating for such massive timing profile changes.

If anyone got that much HP out of the engine, it would be from using a straight pipe exhaust and eliminating the emissions and accessories, and it wouldn't be wheel horsepower. Which counts about as much as using a bench dyno on the engine.

I do own an NA FC FWIW.

Posted by: celbii Nov 25 2013, 06:34 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 3:24 PM)

Hey Banken,
I found the thread on it http://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/na-streetport-6-port-dynoed-182whp-details-inside-416012/

It is def using a full exhaust and some other little goodies. I will hopefully be in the same place since I'm in Oklahoma and we don't have emissions here. My car right now has no cats, but the exhaust is just on the P/O threw together at some muffler shop and its crappy. I have a racing beat headers and pre silencer on the way, and I will get a muffler and catback portion welded up one of these days.

Posted by: RedsunsF1 Nov 25 2013, 09:28 AM

One of my co-workers at our shops has a Turbo II Rx-7. He tuned it with a stand alone and it runs like a champ now. I'll try and get more information about it.

Posted by: Banken Nov 26 2013, 12:00 AM

QUOTE (celbii @ Yesterday, 6:34 AM)

I'll take part of my statement back. You can get those numbers if you are very lucky, with a big, big streetport AND when you change to higher compression rotors (you have an S4, he used S5 rotors) AND remove the sleeves (which means you lose low-end power because you disable the variable timing) AND use a completely different intake manifold and a bigger throttle...

But as I was stating, and as everyone in the threads were stating, with those numbers he could have made well over 200 hp with tuning.

Posted by: celbii Nov 26 2013, 06:18 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 6 hours, 18 minutes ago)

Yeah I think lower in his thread he posts an update where they do some fuel management and hit 190+? And I am considering using s5 rotors if I can get my hands on some by the middle of next year. Who knows we will see when it happens

Posted by: Spaz Nov 26 2013, 09:39 AM

Meh, just put a carb on it, tune with a screw driver, and enjoy the power gains beyond. Plus ALL OF THE FIRE.

Posted by: Banken Nov 26 2013, 05:21 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 7 hours, 42 minutes ago)

Meh, just put a carb on it, tune with a screw driver, and enjoy the power gains beyond. Plus ALL OF THE FIRE.

In that case it's not the carbs themselves giving you the power, it's really the intake manifold... the best thing for an NA rotary would be a custom intake manifold and multiple throttles. You would be losing low end though.

Posted by: Spaz Nov 27 2013, 08:21 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 8:21 PM)

Well, obviously it's not the carb itself.

ITBs, stand off injectors, if you really want to spend money. Man stuff.

Posted by: celbii Nov 27 2013, 12:31 PM

I'm sticking with the girl stuff! lol

Posted by: celbii Dec 2 2013, 11:13 AM

Not much of an update, but changed out the fuel filter and went to change the fuel pump filter but the last little rusted screw ended up breaking on me so not much progress there till I get a chance to try to ez out that tiny bastard. On a happier note the GF went half in on some seats with me for my christmas present, so they are ordered and should show up probably next week

Posted by: Banken Dec 3 2013, 12:47 AM

QUOTE (celbii @ Yesterday, 11:13 AM)

Don't spend a bunch of money on two cheap seats, spend a bunch of money on one really, really good one.

The difference between a generic seat and a brand name one is night and day (mostly in terms of rigidity and hold).

Posted by: celbii Dec 3 2013, 06:38 AM

I'm not going to spend 4k on a pair of seats for a car I spent 3.3 on. I'd rather spend that on the engine lol.

Posted by: Spaz Dec 3 2013, 09:21 AM

Having not been held by an intermediate seat (stock Evo seat, not a racing bucket but not a standard bucket, either), I can say for certain that any car I will ever drive in anger from now on is getting a quality racing seat and a harness. There's no better safety device out there than one that keeps you absolutely stationary in an accident.

Posted by: Banken Dec 5 2013, 04:25 AM

QUOTE (celbii @ Dec 3 2013, 06:38 AM)

I'm not going to spend 4k on a pair of seats for a car I spent 3.3 on. I'd rather spend that on the engine lol.

Were you listening at all? Spend $800-1600 on ONE seat. You don't need to upgrade a passenger seat.

I'm speaking from a purely performance standpoint, not from safety, but having a racing bucket seat and a six-point harness (don't skimp and get a five... six have been proven to be much safer and it's only one more hole that needs to be drilled) will make you a much better driver. It's instant lap times.

By the way, the amount you spent on the base car is irrelevant. The only thing that matters is whether or not you possess a competent track car that performs as as well or better than brand new car for less money. If you have to spend $1500 on a seat that fits you perfectly and $4,000 on suspension mods to achieve the level of performance you want, then so be it.

FWIW, if you have $10,000 in reusable upgrade parts in a $1000 car and total it on the track, you're not out of $11,000... unless it catches on fire... you just need another $1000 car and some elbow grease. That is my philosophy at least, which is why I don't spend money on bodywork and paint. You can't get that money back.

Don't bother with rebuilding the engine unless the compression or low or uneven (you need a special rotary engine tester to check it though). You're better off rebuilding the transmission and the differential (if you had an LSD) in most cases...

Posted by: celbii Dec 5 2013, 07:27 AM

From what I understand it is bad to have a harness in a car with no roll cage and what not. Either way I have already ordered a pair of bride gias reps, said and done. This is not a pure track car and still street driven. There is no way I can race on this engine as it is. It eats too much oil at WOT, I'd risk running way to low on oil and causing bad damage on a 15 minute run at the track here. If im going to track the car, i'm going to pull out the engine first and go over everything and get the rebuild done so it will last, its cheaper to do the build while theoretically all the core components are still reusable also.

Posted by: Spaz Dec 5 2013, 09:39 AM

Then get a harness bar if you can't or won't do a full cage. You need SOMETHING to support the harness that isn't the seat, and it needs to be sturdy enough to keep you safe. Outside of that, how much or how little extra chassis rigidity it adds is completely up to you.

Posted by: celbii Dec 5 2013, 10:56 AM

I'm planning on running stock seatbelts.

Posted by: Spaz Dec 5 2013, 02:25 PM

Then don't do seats at all.

In the end, it's your back and pelvis.

Posted by: Banken Dec 5 2013, 07:54 PM

No, a seat upgrade is still the biggest single change you can make to how a car feels, even without harness belts.

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: backalleyracer Dec 5 2013, 09:09 PM

I'd say tires, since you know... it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. But that is just me.

Posted by: celbii Dec 5 2013, 09:40 PM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 31 minutes, 40 seconds ago)

I'd say tires, since you know... it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. But that is just me.

Seats are already ordered and arriving tomorrow depending on weather. I had aftermarket seats in my old FC with stock seat belts and they were just fine, this isn't my first rodeo lol.

wheels and tires will happen when I do the 5 lug swap, for now its not seeing any track time and the all seasons on it are fairly new and decent. I can't wait to put a nice set of tires on it though in the future

Posted by: Banken Dec 6 2013, 02:49 AM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 5 hours, 39 minutes ago)

I'd say tires, since you know... it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. But that is just me.

Tires are the biggest performance factor (besides power to weight ratio and downforce...but that's another story), but in my opinion no single change on an old car like an FC makes as much of a difference in 1. how the car physically feels to the driver 2. how well the driver can drive the car 3. how much fun the car is to drive than a high quality full bucket seat. The difference will be less pronounced when compared to an R35 GT-R seat, of course. But nothing beats a fixed-back racing seat.

On a car as slow as an S4 NA FC, you're always going to be reasonably well connected to the road, even with regular street tires... but unless the driver is connected to the car, you can't get 100% out of the tires. In my opinion, harden the softest part of the car first. The softest part of the car is the driver, and then the seat.

FWIW, upgrading the tires on a car with a 25 year-old suspension with 100,000+ miles is a waste of money. Fresh dampers and bushings would make a bigger difference in handling (if not absolute performance) than moving from summer street tires to R-comps since the amount of roll would be insane (the FC's stock suspension settings were intended for 30 year-old tire technology). As would an alignment and dialing in some camber.

Assuming you start with some reasonably competent tires to begin with, of course.

If you ever find yourself in a high-speed corner that just happens to perfectly match your suspension, it is a *amazing* how much grip street tires really have. Rather than upgrading tires that you aren't getting 100% out of, I'd say suspension mods that let you use more of their grip on more more corners is better. But to do that, you have to lower the car, use a lot of camber, and use really stiff dampers and springs... I think I have only REALLY maxed out my tires once, and ironically after upgrading my suspension twice (sway bars and then coilovers), I have yet to feel the same amount of lateral G's on that same corner as I did that one time. Without my bucket seat and harness belts I would have literally slid out of the seat.

Posted by: celbii Dec 6 2013, 08:09 AM

energy suspension bushing master kit, dtss elims, and bc racing coils are all on the list at this point

Just more time and money to get them lol. I can't wait to get off the stock springs and struts they are so shot its not funny

Thanks for all the advice as always! I appreciate all the feedback and tips I am receiving

What are your thoughts on the Momo tuner steering wheel 350mm? I just sold my gotham last night and I am thinking about picking up a tuner and selling the race.

Posted by: Banken Dec 6 2013, 09:41 AM

It's basically the same thing. In the end, wheels are just preference. I like suede with the thumb rests putting my hands right at 9 and 3.

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: celbii Dec 6 2013, 07:25 PM

Got the reps in today. They are nicer than I expected. Look and almost feel like the real things. Have all the correct tags and stickers also. The only thing on them that would give me any doubt is the plastic ratcheting handles arent an exact fit on the rod so they have a little slop before they start turning, other than that I can see why people are very easily fooled by these lol. Fit me pretty darn well also they are tiny.

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Posted by: Banken Dec 7 2013, 04:36 PM

Sigh... you bought knockoffs? As I said, while they might look the same, the rigidity, quality, and safety are incomparable.

You should have bought ONE real Bride seat and left the passenger seat stock.

Posted by: celbii Dec 8 2013, 09:14 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 4:36 PM)

Yeah, I stated a couple post ups I bought reps. I know how they are, i've read plenty of reviews and opinions before buying them. I couldn't even afford one real bride seat, would have costed double than what i paid for this pair. Anyways, like I said before they are ordered and done and delivered. They feel way better than the old worn out stocker and worth the price I paid for them to me.

We got the drivers side installed on a whim yesterday, took us the better half of the day to custom everything to mate them up to the oem rails. Passenger side wont be going in any time soon since its even more of a PITA to do, I may just try to find some sort of rails for it.

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Posted by: Banken Dec 8 2013, 05:24 PM

You could have easily bought one Sparco, Corbeau, or Cobra seat for the price of two Chinese illegal Bride knockoffs.

Posted by: celbii Dec 8 2013, 06:58 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 1 hour, 33 minutes ago)

You could have easily bought one Sparco, Corbeau, or Cobra seat for the price of two Chinese illegal Bride knockoffs.

Thats okay I like these, they fit my smaller frame much better, and they arent Chinese or illegal knockoffs? They are made in Taiwan under their trademark there, still not real japan bride, but just thought id correct that lol.

Posted by: Banken Dec 8 2013, 09:01 PM

...uhhh, no. They aren't. They're counterfeit. The Bride website is always warning people about counterfeit seats.

Those seats (with the Bride print material) originally cost over $1,500.　　All Bride seats are made in Japan.

Posted by: backalleyracer Dec 8 2013, 10:11 PM

he said they aren't real - I think he knows and understands that

Posted by: celbii Dec 9 2013, 06:00 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 8 hours, 58 minutes ago)

I don't think you are reading my post... I clearly know this...

Posted by: Banken Dec 9 2013, 03:57 PM

In your last post you claimed they were licensed, which implies they are genuine.

Posted by: celbii Dec 9 2013, 04:35 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 38 minutes, 14 seconds ago)

In your last post you claimed they were licensed, which implies they are genuine.

I said they are trade marked under bride Taiwan, and they also have it in Canada, which is true. They are not real japan brides however, as i've stated, thats just how they get away with selling them and logo and crap.

Posted by: Banken Dec 9 2013, 04:45 PM

They get away with copying the name and design because trademark enforcement in Asia is really, really bad.

Why do you keep suggesting that they are both legal and counterfeit at the same time?

Posted by: kyonpalm Dec 9 2013, 05:04 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 19 minutes, 41 seconds ago)

They get away with copying the name and design because trademark enforcement in Asia is really, really bad.

I know you don't mean to make such a generalization, but I have to say that that depends on the country. Japan is pretty strict about that stuff, if I'm not mistaken. Whether they can do much about it when a company in Taiwan bootlegs their goods is another story.

Posted by: celbii Dec 9 2013, 09:11 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 4 hours, 26 minutes ago)

They get away with copying the name and design because trademark enforcement in Asia is really, really bad.

Why do you keep suggesting that they are both legal and counterfeit at the same time?

I never said it was right, but they have a trademark in their country to make it under that name.

Posted by: N643 Dec 9 2013, 11:21 PM

seriously whats wrong with reps......i work & live in china now, i see reps all the time & i have yet have a problem with them

heck i bet those bride seats are much better then the real brides seats

Posted by: Banken Dec 10 2013, 01:00 AM

QUOTE (kyonpalm @ 7 hours, 55 minutes ago)

I wasn't including Japan. By Asia I mostly mean China and Taiwan.

Celbii, intentionally trademarking the brand name of another company in your country because they haven't, and then counterfeiting their products DOES NOT make it legal. They simply have very bad enforcement.

If you have ever sat in a legitimate Recaro or Bride, and then sat in a replica, the difference is apparent. The real ones are MUCH more rigid, which means they hold you better during heavy cornering or in an accident.

As I was saying, you are always better off buying ONE quality, original seat than two knockoffs. FWIW, a typical stock seat cost about $700. So if anything your $300 knockoff is a downgrade.

Posted by: celbii Dec 10 2013, 06:23 AM

There is no way this is a downgrade to the stock seats, no matter what the price of a stock seat is. This feels way better. The seat I wanted from bride that I got reps of is about $1,800 per seat. Again there is no way i'd pay that much for a seat, I'll make the sacrafice at $750 for a pair of a bit lower quality.

I don't agree with N643 that they are better than the real deal, while there are some reps out there that are great, I know without a doubt the real bride seats are better than the replicas. I still don't think theres a big issue with using the replicas though, If I was doing real racing high class serious racing I would want the real deal.

Posted by: Spaz Dec 10 2013, 09:27 AM

Would you pay $1800 for your life? How about for use of your legs? Or arms? Or both?

Please remember that anything flagged for offroad use doesn't have to pass any sort of DOT certification of safety. It's buyer beware. You may be 100% at terms with your past like I am, but that doesn't mean that saving a measly $1500 now doesn't make throwing away anything else any less of a terrible decision.

Posted by: celbii Dec 10 2013, 10:25 AM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 58 minutes, 1 seconds ago)

Right I understand that, and don't have a good answer for you other than i didn't want to spend the money i don't have on the real seats. Of course i'm not sure if it would really make such a huge difference anyways if you have seen teh bride and i think recaro crash tests where both seats fold in a crash anyways. I have had even crappier fake seats in my old rx7, which I did get into a wreck in, someone decided to turn left without looking at an intersection right when i was near entering it at about 40mph, and i was on the brakes and smashed into him pretty good, my reclineable netami seats held up perfectly fine with no (visible) damage. Now thats not to say that would be the case every time, that the seats would hold up perfectly fine, but it doesn't mean im going to die either just because I bought replica seats, as seeing the crash tests the real things fold just as good as fake ones can.

If I anyone really wants to be safe they should go with full buckets, but then those arent really safe for street use without a roll cage(buckets wont fold like recline-able seats will, from what i've seen is what you want your seats to do if the roof gets smashed in), and a rollcage isn't really a good idea for street use either. Every damn seat seems to have its pros/cons lol.

Anyways lets just sum it up so we can stop beating a dead horse at this point and move on with the thread.
1. Replica seats are not as good as the real seats, quality and safety wise.
2. Both real/oem and replica seats can fail under the wrong condition( IE the 10 yr old sparco ripping off bottom rail, corbeau seat all twisted around(improper install ¾ screws), OEM infini FC seat (doing the same thing as sparco, ripping off the rail) and I’m sure just as many replica and cheap seats have failed the same way.
3. Regardless of if you have a real or fake seat, most racing seats should be accompanied by a lot of safety gear that probably 90% of the people that user aftermarket seats do not install (myself included) along with the seats to make them safe. Most racing seats are not “safe” on their own, real or fake.
4. As always, modifying and driving our cars the way we do is always a risk that we take. Every incident is different and who knows what parts you do/don’t have would have changed the outcome. Heck people die everyday driving perfectly stock cars, just by being at the wrong place at the wrong time.

At the end of the day I'm happy with my seats, I like them much better than what was in there, I know the risks I take by using replica's and for the most part I am not going to lose any sleep over it at night.

Posted by: celbii Jan 19 2014, 02:40 PM

Small updates.

Switched to a momo tuner wheel, sold the race. I ordered a seat rail from bride of japan a week ago so waiting for that to be made and shipped so I can install the passenger seat.
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Put together a custom exhaust. Its racing beat headers to racing beat pre silencer to an apexi dual passenger side exit muffler i bought off some forum. However it was short a bit since they obviously aren't designed to work together and the apexi is for a dual system. so ive had it down for about three weeks now, and my friend came over today and welded me up a piece of pipe to go in between.
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Heres the old exhaust that was on there.
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I haven't got to really drive the car around yet, but moving it it sounded nice so thats good. thats all for now.

Posted by: Banken Jan 20 2014, 11:32 PM

What is that race car in the last picture?

Posted by: celbii Jan 21 2014, 06:27 AM

Im not sure on the exacts, but it is a quasar with a suzuki motor, just like this user posted image

Posted by: celbii Jan 22 2014, 06:50 AM

Did a quick sound clip of the exhaust last night.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIHIlxcbY5w

Posted by: celbii Jan 24 2014, 06:19 PM

Got my second seat in after some overnight parts from japan.

Bride seat rail
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Posted by: celbii Jan 30 2014, 09:33 PM

Minor updates:
No rear strut bar before
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Rear strut bar after (don't mind the box, P/O installed it, and I keep it in there since it sounds a bit better and its not like I do any hardcore driving on the street lol)
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Also put together a custom Re-Amemiya shift knob, since I didnt want to spend around ~120-130 it would have costed from japan. The heavy shift knob feels great, and shifting is alot better.

Heres the original for comparison.
http://www.nengun.com/re-amemiya/carbon-shift-knob-400g

The base knob that uses (Note: base knob is universal and fits all cars, the genuine RE knob says fits only s5+, fd,rx8 etc, so no idea if it is hard threaded.)
http://www.amazon.com/Razo-RA66-Chrome-Carbon-Manual/dp/B000CPCQEG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391143406&sr=8-1&keywords=razo+ra66

Then a custom resin badge from aus land, size 24mm. (Razo badge is around 24.5mm I rounded down to 24mm and it fits near perfect, with about zero play, if you wanted to play it safe you could go around 23.5mm)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RE-AMEMIYA-ROTARY-BADGE-STICKER-DECAL-RX7-RX3-RX8-13B-/200801852030?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec0b91a7e&vxp=mtr

End results:
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Random interior shot lol
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Posted by: backalleyracer Jan 31 2014, 03:13 AM

nice job - looks good

Posted by: celbii Feb 6 2014, 12:07 PM

Just a quick update:
Seeing as its an important part to the build, decided to get someone on a local forum to start working on these. user posted image

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Hopefully my measurements are close enough that they will be close to the real deal.

Also awaiting some goodies, but weather is delaying shipping.

Posted by: Banken Feb 6 2014, 03:10 PM

Really? You're going with the fake sponsor stickers instead of the real ones from the manga?

Posted by: celbii Feb 6 2014, 04:52 PM

Really.

Got some new parts in today..
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Posted by: Banken Feb 7 2014, 12:03 AM

I guess you were serious about the replica thing...lol.

I would suggest you get a paintjob, S5 tails, and an S5 bumper/lip first or it's going to look like one really half-assed replica.

Where are those coilovers from? (let me guess... Taiwan?)

Posted by: celbii Feb 7 2014, 08:41 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ 8 hours, 37 minutes ago)

I plan on painting in the trim, getting tails, and getting bumper(Mine is broken in the front from P/O hitting a rabbit or something)+ lip, no worries, all in good time.

They are stance super sports.

Posted by: backalleyracer Feb 8 2014, 01:56 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 12:03 AM)

could you stop ripping on this guy - does it truly brother you how someone literally across the globe choses to modify his car?

He obviously wishes to make a replica in his own way, so... that's his choice

Posted by: celbii Feb 8 2014, 03:14 PM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ Today, 1:56 AM)

Thanks

I dunno why he does, I've already stated in my first post its not a 100% replica, and he lists stuff that I obviously know i need to do... lol.

Posted by: Banken Feb 8 2014, 05:17 PM

I was only questioning why you were working on the stickers before you did the bodywork.

Posted by: Lonely_Driver Feb 8 2014, 08:08 PM

QUOTE (Banken @ 2 hours, 50 minutes ago)

I was only questioning why you were working on the stickers before you did the bodywork.

How do you modify your car?

Posted by: backalleyracer Feb 8 2014, 11:32 PM

with jdm power obviously

Posted by: celbii Feb 9 2014, 10:37 AM

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 5:17 PM)

I was only questioning why you were working on the stickers before you did the bodywork.

Because there is a guy on a local 240sx forum that does decals and stickers, He posted up a thread about it, I PM'ed him a link to some pictures, took 5 minutes to take rough measurements, and picked them up from him the next day. It was easier for me to get it done now then worry about it later. All I have to do for painting the sides is just tape everything off anyways, so when I get to that it wont really be a big deal. Other body parts will come eventually when I can source them, which is alot harder than getting stickers lol.

Posted by: Banken Feb 9 2014, 07:27 PM

QUOTE (Lonely_Driver @ Yesterday, 8:08 PM)

How do you modify your car?

Only what needs to be modded...I spend most of my car money on track days.

Posted by: celbii Feb 15 2014, 04:56 PM

Installed my stance coilovers last week. Car is a bit stiff but way better than the dead stockers

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Posted by: TranceKitsune Feb 18 2014, 03:00 PM

Looking good! Crazy to see how fast you are changing it. A good before and after picture would be cool. What's next on your list?

Posted by: celbii Feb 19 2014, 06:27 AM

QUOTE (TranceKitsune @ Yesterday, 3:00 PM)

Looking good! Crazy to see how fast you are changing it. A good before and after picture would be cool. What's next on your list?

Thanks Trance

I think whenever I do the 5 lug swap and get new wheels then I'll do a before and after. Mostly I'd like to find a 5 lug parts car so I can start redoing all the suspension then swap it over. I have most of the bushings and stuff already. I also would like to redo all the cooling stuff, Koyo rad and new hoses etc.

Posted by: backalleyracer Feb 21 2014, 11:51 AM

i would just hit up a junkyard or two, fc's are still prevalent in junkyards, and GXL"s have TII brakes on them already

Posted by: celbii Feb 21 2014, 07:12 PM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 7 hours, 21 minutes ago)

i would just hit up a junkyard or two, fc's are still prevalent in junkyards, and GXL"s have TII brakes on them already

We dont get too many here in oklahoma in the junkyards, and the ones at the yard are usually picked apart by the time I hear of them. Oh well a parts car will fall into my life one day, just gotta be patient.

And my mom bought a brz the other night

I'm jealous lol.
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Posted by: celbii Mar 7 2014, 04:32 PM

Heres my big update to my build:
Bought a new FC from texas

This one is about 90% complete to where I wanted mine, but this will save me a ton of time and money. So I will now need to swap over a few things from my old one to this new one and then put it up for sale. Its also a little more correct for my initial D build.

Details
-GTUs Model (only 100 in 1990)
-148,xxx miles on chassis
-Less than 2,500 miles on fresh 6-port streetport by Kevin Landers of Rotary Resurrection, built Oct 2012, dyno-tuned by Chris Ott at Rotary Performance in Garland TX, to a very stout 185whp. It is more powerful than the stock Turbo 2!

Engine
-3rd gen housings
-Full 6-port streetport
-Atkins 2mm apex seals
-Stock air pump actuating auxilary ports
-Atkins 1-piece machined auxilary port inserts
-All gaskets & o-rings replaced
-OMP operational
-All silicone vac lines
-Exhaust diffusers removed
-Stock TB, solenoids, etc and all functional
-Removed AC and PS
-Mazda Competition motor mounts
-Cork Sport SS oil lines
-Aluminum thermostat neck

Exhaust
-Racing Beat header, uncollected, Jet Hot coated
-Header lightly port matched to exhaust ports
-Full, uncollected RB exhaust with presilencers
-No cats

Suspension
-Rear toe eliminators
-Adjustable rear camber link
-Suspension Technologies bushings
-RB front sway bar
-Adjustable swaybar end links
-Brand new fortune auto coilovers 6/8k with swift springs w/ extenders (spare -Tokico Illumina struts with Eibach springs in front, Genuine Re Amemiya adjustable coilovers in back)
-MazdaTrix front strut brace with torque / engine damper
-Mazdaspeed MS-01 wheels refinished with brand new Bridgestone Potenza S-04 225f 255r
-New Ventus HRII directional tires on GTUs wheels
-De-powered the ‘right’ way 17:1 ratio manual steering rack
-Current 0 toe all around, -2.0 camber in front, -2.5 in back. Awesome
-4.3 ratio rear end LSD

Cooling
-Koyo N-flow radiator May 2012
-Flex A Lite Electric fan – temp controlled

Brakes
-New rotors 2008, 20k on them
-Hawk HP+ pads with lots of life (fronts new)
-Stainless brake lines
-Front brake ducts baby!
-STRONG stoppers

Trans
-Smooth, no grinds
-Short shifter
-Fresh bushings 2010
-Center Force Dual Friction clutch (awesome)
-Stainless clutch lines
-Suspension Technologies mounts
-Racing Beat steel flywheel (awesome)

Fluids & Belts
-Oil change at 500 on new engine and every 1,000 miles, Castrol GTX 10w30 per Mazda specs and builder recommendations
-Redline oils in trans & rear end
-Belts in good shape

Electronics
- Real HID projects sakebombgarage 5k
-Apexi SAFC in glove box – dyno tuned by Rotary Performance
-Mallory HyFire 6 CDI ignition box
-Custom engine power and grounding kit
-New Odyssey Mini Gel Cell in stock location - awesome
-Stereo: Aiwa cd player, aftermarket speakers (old but functions OK)
-MSD Super Conductor plug wires
-Logicon, replaced & works but for 1 or 2 lights
-Windshield wiper switch works 100%
-Cruise control added (not included on GTUs) and works!
-Electric mirrors
-Aftermarket Gauges:
--Autometer oil press
--Autometer water temp
--PLX wideband
-Even the windshield wiper fluid system works!

Interior
-NICE INTERIOR! vents, surround, etc!

-Bride Gias 3 reps
-JDM bride seat rail
-Momo Apache wheel
-Perfect dash with cover for protection
-Manual windows
-Glove box, center console, all in good shape
-Idiot lights, clock works
-Legal “silver” tint – cool in summer
-Electric “rat trap” seatbelts, working, warrantied by Mazda for lifetime

Exterior

-LOUD compressor-driven air horn hidden inside front bumper
-Cork Sport Mazdaspeed Replica front lip
-Repainted Mazda Performance White code UK (original Arctic White) in 2007
-S5 tail lights & wing of course
-Working power antenna
-Working power mirrors
-Hatch struts work
-Gas door release, hatch release, hood release all work wel
-Door handles & locks work inside & outside
-All fresh rubber seals around doors, hatch (Seals TIGHT)
-Fresh drip rail on front doors (no rust)
-All locks, hinges, etc lubed with Lithium grease
-Aluminium hood

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Posted by: Lonely_Driver Mar 7 2014, 05:12 PM

Congrats on the purchase!

Just wondering why the different suspension setups for front and rear?

Posted by: celbii Mar 7 2014, 06:49 PM

QUOTE (Lonely_Driver @ 1 hour, 37 minutes ago)

Congrats on the purchase!

Just wondering why the different suspension setups for front and rear?

From what he told me it originally had KYB AGX's all the way around, but he didn't like how they rode so he switched to the Tokico Illumina setup. Then a while later he found someone on rx7club parting out a car that had been in a front end accident, but the rear suspension was still good so he got the re amemiya coilovers off of it, which ended up being a really good match to the tokico's and also let him lower it a bit in the rear since it rode pretty high before. This was basically his AutoX toy and its setup really well, only reason he got rid of it was because he bought a corvette to start playing with instead.

Posted by: Banken Mar 7 2014, 10:15 PM

Lol, it's the car you should have bought to begin with...

The owner must have really needed the money.

Posted by: chillined Mar 7 2014, 10:17 PM

Just can't stop can you?

We all work with what we have.

Sweet build buddy, keep it up!

Posted by: celbii Mar 8 2014, 08:34 AM

QUOTE (chillined @ Yesterday, 10:17 PM)

Just can't stop can you?

We all work with what we have.

Sweet build buddy, keep it up!

Thanks Chilined, granted I expected the response from him lol. But thats exactly what I was doing, working with what I had. And thanks

QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 10:15 PM)

Lol, it's the car you should have bought to begin with...

The owner must have really needed the money.

I agree it would have been nice to start with this one, however I have a feeling if I didn't get my FC in this thread, then I would have not been as active in the community and only by chance did I see the listing to get this one, since I was looking for something for my other FC lol. So it all works out, the first one led me to this one.

He was tired of chasing vettes and being right on their tail, so he decided if you can't beat them join them. I should have taken pictures but he had a sweet c6 sitting in his garage that he had just bought last week, so he needed to get rid of his old toy

Posted by: Spaz Mar 8 2014, 08:41 AM

Awesome purchase! That's a really good starting point, and ready for boost when you decide to make it really accurate.

Posted by: celbii Mar 8 2014, 02:24 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 5 hours, 42 minutes ago)

Awesome purchase! That's a really good starting point, and ready for boost when you decide to make it really accurate.

Sadly It wont be seeing any boost

I plan on tracking the car and its much more reliable NA and has more then plenty of power at 185whp.

Posted by: Spaz Mar 8 2014, 08:48 PM

You just made me think, I haven't owned anything slower than my Jetta since mid-2007... And I don't think I could do it.

Reliability aside (which it should be on a track car), it's better to learn the car and your abilities with less power. I was just speaking for the future, years down the road. It should make sense to eventually tap the potential to its full extent.

Posted by: celbii Mar 8 2014, 10:04 PM

QUOTE (Spaz @ 1 hour, 16 minutes ago)

I enjoy slow cars for some reason

Granted this is one of the faster older N/A cars I've had. I DD a 07 acura tl type s and its decent for a bigger car speed wise.

But yeah you are right, who knows what the future holds

Posted by: chillined Mar 8 2014, 11:31 PM

Being able to push the car closer to its limits is a great learning car. It's hard to learn from a car that will totally overwhelm. But experience is experience, end of that. I wouldn't mind a civic with a screaming B18C just to learn the dynamics of front wheel drive.

And the future always holds something

The boost bug will hit you, just not yet haha

Posted by: Lonely_Driver Mar 9 2014, 10:29 AM

QUOTE (chillined @ Today, 1:31 AM)

I wouldn't mind a civic with a screaming B18C just to learn the dynamics of front wheel drive.

I lernt to drive in a FWD car during the winter. They can be fun cause you're never afraid to spin out, just go full lock and floor it

Posted by: Spaz Mar 9 2014, 07:56 PM

QUOTE (Lonely_Driver @ 9 hours, 26 minutes ago)

just go full lock and floor it

LOL, because that always ends well.

Posted by: Vile Mar 9 2014, 10:27 PM

Hey umm Celbii, if you ever decide to let go of those wheels (Or just the rims really), let me know. I'm really interested in them!

EDIT: Forgot to mention but the ones on the S5 FC that you recently bought.

Posted by: backalleyracer Mar 9 2014, 11:03 PM

QUOTE (celbii @ Yesterday, 10:04 PM)

I enjoy slow cars for some reason

Granted this is one of the faster older N/A cars I've had. I DD a 07 acura tl type s and its decent for a bigger car speed wise.

But yeah you are right, who knows what the future holds

Its much more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow.

That statement might not make much sense to you know, but maybe later down the road in your automotive journey it may.

Either way, congrats on the purchase!

Looks like a great starting point to learn accurate driving technique.

Posted by: celbii Mar 10 2014, 05:57 AM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 6 hours, 53 minutes ago)

Its much more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow.

That statement might not make much sense to you know, but maybe later down the road in your automotive journey it may.

Either way, congrats on the purchase!

Looks like a great starting point to learn accurate driving technique.

Oh it makes sense and i agree, its mainly the reason why most of my cars have been slower

They are just as fun for me

If I really want to drive a turbo or fast n/a car I have access to them.

I am going to get new wheels once I sell the other car and finish getting all the parts gone, but I'll probably keep them as a spare set as they have pretty decent new tires that were put on in December. I've had a few people local wanting to buy them also lol.

Posted by: Vile Mar 10 2014, 07:59 AM

QUOTE (celbii @ 2 hours, 1 minutes ago)

Oh it makes sense and i agree, its mainly the reason why most of my cars have been slower

They are just as fun for me

Aww okay, no problem. Do you know specifically on which S5 FC's they're from?

I highly agree with backalley. I just bought an S5 FC last week and plan to keep it in its purest form. If that makes any sense to you guys.

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: celbii Mar 10 2014, 11:09 AM

QUOTE (Vile @ 3 hours, 10 minutes ago)

They are just the stock t2 wheels I believe. Actually mine are GTUs wheels so they are only 16x6 wide instead of the stock t2 wheels which are 16x7 iirc.

Posted by: Vile Mar 10 2014, 12:57 PM

Gotcha thanks! Wish me luck on trying to find the wheels. I currently got the BBS ones from the vert FC'S which I really love but would like to go 16 or 17" instead of 15".

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Posted by: celbii Mar 15 2014, 08:43 PM

Stickers on the new car, and also put my brides in it, I am undecided on which steering wheel i want to use though, this one came with a momo apache wheel which is nice.
Also put the old one up for sale.
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Posted by: Vile Mar 22 2014, 07:16 AM

I like where this is going! Glad you're ditching the S4. Wish financial issues weren't a source of my problems with my S5... ughh.

Posted by: kyonpalm Mar 22 2014, 02:54 PM

QUOTE (celbii @ Mar 15 2014, 11:43 PM)

Holy shit, how did I miss this post? That thing looks absolutely stunning! I love it!

Posted by: celbii May 5 2014, 07:59 AM

Just figured I'd post to say im still alive

Car is doing good, haven't really done anything to it. Kinda strange to not have anything to do to a car, but also nice at the same time, saves $$$$. I did buy a T2 hood from a friend that needs paint and I need to pick it up sometime. Fixed a small fuel leak the other day. Waiting for my HID projector headlights to come in hopefully next week.

Probably wont be driving it as much now as its getting hotter, The car is running pure coolant and likes to get pretty hot if Its not moving, so hot weather + stuck in traffic or something would be bad.. Need to look into the E-fan setup to get it running more consistently. No A/c either

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Posted by: backalleyracer May 5 2014, 10:03 PM

why is the car running on pure coolant?

Posted by: celbii May 6 2014, 06:36 AM

QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 8 hours, 32 minutes ago)

why is the car running on pure coolant?

Its running a poor mans evans coolant to prevent it from boiling out if it overheats.

Posted by: Spaz May 6 2014, 08:15 AM

Antifreeze doesn't work as a proper coolant by itself, and water doesn't have a proper operational temperature range without antifreeze; they work together, and both are necessary in the system.

Mix that fucker 50/50.

Posted by: celbii May 6 2014, 06:48 PM

Well its ment to operate as a waterless coolant, which I should have worded my update correctly instead of saying running pure coolant

I will probably play with my E-fan to get it to come on more often than change the coolant, I mean the guy tracked it on hot track days im assuming so its probably okay, I'm just concerned about getting stuck in traffic or something while driving it.

Posted by: sideways May 6 2014, 10:07 PM

I wouldn't worry about that either. Typically speaking clutch fans move more air than a large portion of electric fans (Ie for cooling, typically speaking, clutch fans are better than electric fans)- Keep in mind theyre typically a lot bigger, with a far more aggressive rake to their blades. If youre in traffic with a working clutch fan and youre overheating with it, youre going to overheat with an e-fan too. E-fans will free up a smidge of power, and clean up the engine bay- But I wouldn't do it because youre after better cooling- if that's what youre after, stick with the stocker.

Posted by: celbii May 7 2014, 05:24 AM

Car already has an E-fan in it, it is temperature controlled to come on automatically, I just feel like it doesn't reliably come on all the time. I'll probably mess with it to see if I can get it to come on more often or just try to wire up a switch so I can just have it turned on while im driving.

Posted by: backalleyracer May 7 2014, 04:31 PM

QUOTE (sideways @ Yesterday, 10:07 PM)

This...

FC Clutch fans pull way more cfm's than almost all e-fans do.

Posted by: sideways May 8 2014, 03:19 AM

QUOTE (celbii @ Yesterday, 6:24 AM)

Can I trouble you to elaborate more on what its doing? Does it seem to come on at inconsistent temps (Ie are you looking at your temp gauge going eerr, iitt SHOULD be on... but it isnt?), or something else? Are you using an aftermarket temp gauge (if so where is it located), or the stocker to gauge this by?

If yes (to the inconsistency)- It might not be a problem with your fan as much as it might be a problem with your thermostatic switch. Def try wiring it up directly to a switch and see how that works. You could also very VERY easily wire it up to a small LED light, so you know 100% when its coming on.

Its worth pointing out that an e-fan should pretty much *only* come on when youre in traffic, or moving very slowly. For MOST cars, past about 15 mph- fans do nothing. It really doesnt matter what speed youre going at, be it 50 mph or 150, air doesnt really go through your radiator much faster than this- So anything "above" this speed, is about as much air as your going to get through your radiator, period- If that makes sense lol. If your fan is coming on at other times, theres something wrong with your cooling system.

Posted by: celbii Jun 3 2015, 07:23 AM

Small Update since I haven't posted in quite a while. I have paid for some new goodies finally to keep with the redsuns theme, hopefully they will ship out soon and not get damaged in shipping from across the pond... I'll post up another update when I get those.

I Don't drive the car very often, its fun but kind of a pain to drive around town lol, no a/c, no power steering, light fly wheel, very notchy short shifter, solid mounts etc. So It only gets out a few days a month, the rest of the time it just sleeps in a garage lol. But thats why we have the TL and wrx to DD lol.

The temp controller that turns the efan on and off died on me, at the same time my temp gauge started acting up, so there was a few times the car got a little warm and I didn't realize it( no overheating but warmer than it should be) Once I found out the Efan wasn't turning on I bought the E fan switch to wire it up to turn on manually rather than drop more money to replace the whole T-stat controller. Ran new wires from the efan all the way into the cabin and took a dremel and cut out one of the button caps on the center console to fit the switch in so it would have a clean look, and be easily accessible. While not as nice as having the fan come on automatically, I just keep an eye on temps as I always did anyways and I almost never turn the E-fan on unless im stopped for a bit. I like how it turned out
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The temp gauge has been acting funky for quite some time, it would read but the range would be completely wrong, it would barely move but I could tell when the car was heated up when the needle was slightly above the 100 Degree mark. Tried all sorts of stuff, replacing the sensor, getting a new gauge, nothing worked. Ended up being the wiring from the owner before the P/O, he tapped the aftermarket gauge into the stock temp gauge and it started causing issues, so Just redid all the wiring and left the stock temp gauge(Which never worked anyways the way he had it set up) and the old gauge worked perfectly fine again. Just gave the new one to my dad.

I bought some HID projectors in a group buy on rx7club, took a while to get them but they are nice and for the most part everything was plug and play, way better than the stock headlights, but I wish I went 1k lower on the color, they are a little more blue than I like.
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I bought a T2 hood here locally, nice shape, one small crack on the scoop but not really noticeable, needed paint. I liked it, I think the car would look alot better with the T2 hood but I ended up selling it. I didn't want to deal with getting it paint matched to whatever color the car is and I would also have needed to block off the scoop inside for rain. I just decided to put the stock hood back on. Neat while it lasted.
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Funny story though, I sold the stock hood to a guy who ended up owning my old FC from the start of this thread. I had been hearing from people that they have been sighting a redsuns fc and I'm always like its not me, im never out lol. Turns out the kid I sold the fc to traded it to another guy for his 240 and he put redsuns stickers back on it (Just the rear ones though). Noticed as soon as we went to put the hood on and saw my home depot 5th and 6th ports activator, which he had no idea what it was and said he just opens and closes it, so I explained to him the purpose of it and showed him how to adjust it so his Aux ports would open correctly lol. Heres a pic of my old fc driving away with my turbo hood.
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And thats all I can think of for now, Will update again when I get my stuff in hopefully all intact, should be a pretty good update.

Posted by: celbii Jun 11 2015, 07:16 PM

Heres my next big update for a while:
New wheels!!
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It took a long time searching to find these wheels since they don't pop up for sale very often, maybe one or two times a year. Granted you can find them much easier in japan. I messaged alot of people who had posted them for sale within the last 4 years in the size and offset I wanted and got a few messages back, mostly people saying they sold them or they weren't for sale anymore. I had one guy email me back located all the way in Latvia Europe who still had his for sale! Freshly refinished and posted for sale over 3 years ago they have just sat in his storage ever since then. After some emailing back and forth I ended up getting them for $1200 shipped from Europe(got here in 4 days), not bad for hard to find refinished wheels with the complete center caps and even the cap wrench to go with them! (They do need the wheel spoke decal and the center cap needs to be cleaned up, the rays should be a shiny gold on them not black LOL)

Rays Mazdaspeed MS-01's Lemans style! 17x8 +34 and 17x9 +35 . Similar to the ms01's in the show but these are two piece with the gold centers. ( PS if anyone is ever searching for these, I did find a guy on ziliva with a set same size/offset but they are in way worse shape and he is firm(and crazy) at $1500 shipped on them. )

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I love how these look and fit on FC's heres a pic ive found of them on a white fc(not my car)
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I have a set of Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position 225/45/17 and 255/40/17 coming for them.

Also picked up some new lugnuts while I was at it, it was a difficult choice deciding what to get, between $150 rays and $25 gorilla lugs I settled with Mutekis sr35's as I have used them before with no issues at all. I know some people like to hate on them but I've read horror stories on every damn lug nut out there so these weren't too horrible at $60 shipped.

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To go with my new wheels I decided to upgrade the suspension also. I went ahead and got a set of Fortune Auto 500's with swift spring upgrades on order to replace the Kyb/agx + racing beat springs front and Re Amemiya coilover rears. Got about $300 off retail on them so that's nice, sucks they take 3-4 weeks to build and ship out though.
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Thats all for now, probably my last update for quite a while other than pics when I get the wheels on and coilovers on. Thanks for reading!

Posted by: Rudy Jun 11 2015, 10:48 PM

Nice find on the wheels, all you have to do is have the centers powder coated silver and it'll be a perfect match to Ryousuke's car.

Posted by: Takumi Trueno Jun 11 2015, 11:23 PM

Very nice. I thought about going with the gold centers but I will definitely go silver with the show. I look forward to seeing more of your build.

Posted by: celbii Jun 13 2015, 09:28 AM

QUOTE (Rudy @ Jun 11 2015, 10:48 PM)

Nice find on the wheels, all you have to do is have the centers powder coated silver and it'll be a perfect match to Ryousuke's car.

Yeah I got pretty lucky all things considered, still can't believe I got such a nice set for the price since these are hard to come by. Since they are refinished I'll probably rock the gold for a while, don't want to put any more money into them than I have at the moment, probably will change the color down the line sometime though.

QUOTE (Takumi Trueno @ Jun 11 2015, 11:23 PM)

Very nice. I thought about going with the gold centers but I will definitely go silver with the show. I look forward to seeing more of your build.

Thanks

Yeah at least being two piece its not too bad to change the color if I want to so thats nice haha.

Small update on the wheels, they where refinished but the centers still had ab out 22yrs of oxidation and grime on them so I picked up some mothers mag and alum polish and went to town on them. Took me about an hour and half to do the 4 rays logos in the center but it was worth it. Heres the before and after.

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Posted by: backalleyracer Jun 14 2015, 12:45 AM

fucking nice!

With the centercaps too - great purchase!

Posted by: Spaz Jun 14 2015, 05:53 AM

Rays FTW.

Seriously, I love their center caps, none of this cheap plastic crap that everyone else uses. My Volk caps are aluminum and CF, worth every penny of the $75 for each one. And they always nail down the fitment so there's no worry about them coming off on the track.

Posted by: celbii Aug 21 2015, 06:30 AM

Figured I'd drop in an update since I just finished up working on the car the other week.

Got the coilovers installed, Front had camber bolts so I went ahead and got some normal bolts to replace them with since I did not really need them with the camber plates. Wheels fit great now no rubbing anymore. Got the rear extenders in also, work nice but I wish they were a bit shorter, I'm sure I can find some but it doesn't bother me that much other than looking silly lol. Has a bit too much positive camber up front, but i'll take care of that when I get time to go get it aligned.

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Posted by: Spaz Aug 21 2015, 10:18 AM

Went with Swift 8ks, I see. I'm not partial to Swift springs or anything.

Posted by: celbii Jun 30 2016, 12:30 PM

Just thought I'd update this and let everyone know I let go the car last week. I am looking to get into a BMW Z4 M coupe in the near future and wanted to have some funds in the bank for when I found the right one. That being said the ms01's and fortune auto coilovers are for sale, if your interested in them shoot me a Pm on here or check out my threads on rx7club under the same username. It was a pleasure being here with you guys and I enjoyed everyones builds and will continue to keep checking them out!

Thanks!
David