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i decided and I'm going to go with a L28ET with a rebello stroker kit rods pistons compression will be 8.3:1 with a P90A head. HX super 40 turbo as well. probably a 3.1L or a 3.0.

intake manifold i know welders so fabbing one up is not an issue neither is turbo manifold or external wastegate. but i do neeed to know of common problems with these engines. say i get a rebello stroker kit. forged rods pistons crank main and rod bearings with headgasket as well. this pretty much take care of the bottom end strength. however are there any problems with oil pumps giving out? insufficient lubrication? this is a BIG BIG issue with the RB and VG series and the VG's usually end up spinning a rod bearing, sure you can upgrade to a high flow oil pump but it does not fix the issue 100% its a band-aid for a issue that takes a dry sump to completely eliminate that issue. the oil gallery's on the VG's are garbage you would need to have a machine shop open up the oil gallery's in the entire block to fully get rid of the problem with a wet sump system, but the time your done could have gone with a better motor.

just main studs and oil pump and I hear the 81-83 blocks were stronger but suffer where cylinder number 5 and 6 runs hotter then the rest i was told to run a 280Z block. I'm not sure about the strength though.

fuel rails are not a problem for me..

a few concerns are oil pump, cooling issues, oil gallery's, and head flow

where can i get a high flowing oil pump for a L? there are no aftermarket so i assume stock one is more then enough?

cylinders 5 and 6 run hotter then the rest. is this because of casting flash? i know the VG30's suffer from casting flash and as a result cylinder number 6 or 5 run hotter then the rest most likely place to have a blown head gasket as well.

how are the oil gallery's on these engines? are they crap?

head flow is a issue with these engines and i've read to compensate for this i throw a bigger cam at it, but thats not a proper fix for the initial problem, how much meat do i have to port? how far can i go in terms of playing with the head? yes the sky is the limit but i know on the VG30's the heads are also crappy ad you dont have a lot to port before you hit a watet jacket, unless you have a OWO head.

either way i would like to know more about this engine I've been googling and looking on hybrid Z and cant quite find the information im looking for. perhaps im not looking hard enough but I've sent 3 whole days trying to find major cons or some reason to NOT go with this motor and i cant find any solid reasons why no to go with it.

they are pretty cheap as well i can pick up a 83 full turbo engine right now on CL for 300 bucks wiring harness and everything.

What power are you trying to extract from such an engine? I know someone with one that puts 300 to the wheels...and it has no problems whatsoever...and is a daily driver... so it's kinda hilarious that you're bringing up all these problems...that...don't affect his motor.

So again. What stupid power level are you shooting for with this fantasy break...err I mean build?

Realistically i want 400-450ish. what i ACTUALLY want. 600ish? lol but i think 400-450ish is enough for now lol.

i've read and been told in terms of reliability their solid as a rock very good motor. but i was curious as to some of the issues that were brought to light in a few guides and sections on L28s. i wasnt sure how MUCH of a serious issue it was because I've never owned a L. but aleast the forged internals will hold whatever power i throw at it of course, with a proper set up, tune, and engine, doesnt mean it still wont blow but it's a nice buffer in case of detonation.

This post has been edited by s12drifter on Aug 16 2012, 04:43 PM

300's a good place to start, it'll be quite a bit of car.

It's always funny to see people go big power before they can drive their car with the power it's got, don't be that guy.

yea one step at a time. it's insane to forkout 600hp I'd probably crash because I'm not use to the power. and with my lead foot lmao thats a good idea.

i do wanna work for my power a little bit. what fun is it to go 2jz throw it in raise the boost and go to 350 or 400hp. thats no fun at all.

This post has been edited by s12drifter on Aug 17 2012, 02:38 AM

I'm with the above on this. If you want to spend stupid money, convert it to dry sump and run a 4 stage external pump.

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Well if you want to spend $6k-$7k to build a motor which would be comparable to a stock 2jz motor, be my guest. But IMO trying to push an L28 beyond 400 HP is going to take ALOT of money and its going to be a very fragile motor. you have to remember that motor was designed in the late 50's early 60's and was never designed to make huge horse power numbers. You have a non cross flow head that flows about as well as a coffee swizzle stick, an exhaust manifold that cooks the intake and injectors and a fuel rail that looks like Dr. Seuss himself designed. On top of it all it's controlled by a completely analog ecu, which was sub par even in its heyday.

in the end it wont matter im going to spend about that much with any engine, VG30, 2jz, RB20/25, or L28.

the real kicker is that for 2,500 I will have a fully built bottom end vs the factory forged rod and cast piston design the rb, vg and 2j run. a 2j will run me about the same with a auto trans but it wont matter i still have a built bottom end.

for that price, you really cant beat it i dont think. your absolutely right about the head although i have to disagree i think willy wonka helped design it in a lab full of monkeys. i mean seriously WTF! intake and exhaust on the same side? heat soak much? no cold air? must have been some high ass engineers because I would have fired their ass but whatever.

Well lets run the numbers here, shall we.

L28et $300
Stroker Kit $2100
Mazworx Trans adapter to bolt a z32 trans to an L28 $1100
Z32 trans $500
Gasket kit $200
Oil pump $200
Injectors + Fuel rail $600
Head porting/polishing $750
Valves $300
Springs $200
Cam $300
Standalone $2000
Custom engine harness $500
Turbo $2000
Wastegate $300
Custom Turbo manifold $500
Professional Dyno Tuning $400
Clutch of some sort $500

So to build a 400-500hp L28ET the grand total without labor or fab work to fit it into a Z31 would be $12750

Now lets compare that with say a 2JZ
Ebay 2jz VVTI w/ auto trans $2200
Ebay R154 w/ 1JZ flywheel and clutch $1100
AEM Supra EMS W/ ID 1k injectors $2500
274/274 cams $850
Springs $300
2JZ turbo manifold T3 $300
Turbo $2000
Wastegate $300
Clutch $500
Fuel rail $200
Professional tuning $400

For $10650 you could make 500-600 all day long and have it be perfectly reliable and have a better more useable powerband.




*all prices are based on retail prices with a slight mark up to include shipping and tax

lets not forget the driveshaft for a 2jz since i done have one that will bolt on. was quoted 600 for that wiring to wire it in the car would most likely take it to a shop for that. dont forget valves how are you gonna throw cams at it and springs and not do valves what about head work?

for the trans LOL i wont do that Z32 is over doing fuck mazworks and there ass rape prices I'll just stick to my T-5 and have a mustang shop build it into a world class it'll be bolt on with the T-5 bellhousing for the L so no trans or driveshaft fab need direct bolt in.

I'm not trying to hit you but if you compare motors compare with with something close to the same mods. i promise a 2jz and rb are 2x more expensive then the L. additionally where did you get the clutch for 500 for a 2j? O.o okay sure act but they would only hold 450lbs torque a 2jz would tear them open like nothing. i see them at southbend going for 600 - 700ish in price.

include the gasket kit with the 2j too because you would be retarded to run a almost 20 year old engine on the stock oem gaskets.

also where did you get your prices for the trans? wtf? i see the trans selling for 1,000 - 1,500 just the trans flywheel would run 600 and clutch well yea.

other then that your pretty straight with the prices. `

This post has been edited by s12drifter on Aug 17 2012, 02:43 PM

I wish I could kill people through the internet. I wish that posts could spew acid out of the target's screen and melt their hands so they could never type another post again.

That way, I would never have to read your uninformed dribble ever again.

Please, for the love of everything holy, just stop with this nonsense. Go back to WME where you might actually be able to convince someone you know something about building cars.

Because I cannot warn people twice in one day, I have to tell you here Don, you need to stop that. If you don't feel like saying why you disagree with someone, don't post at all, because you've shown that the only words you give are unnecessarily rude. No one's disrespected you, so why would you say things like this? The post you made before this was already borderline.