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> My 1999 Accord EX (V6, Sedan), Formerly "Sporadic Issue with Fuel Delivery"
kyonpalm
  Posted: Feb 24 2016, 05:06 PM


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One thing I forgot to mention in the update: prior to this happening, I filled the tank from empty to full on 91 (previously 87). I don't think this is necessarily related since after filling the tank, I made a full 60 mile drive south without issue. The following morning is when it came back with a vengeance. But if this says something different to any of you, feel free to chime in.

Parts are in, will hack off the old TPS' breakaways and get the new one in as well as the O2 sensors tomorrow.
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kyonpalm
  Posted: Feb 25 2016, 06:50 PM


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I'm going crazy. Just changed the TPS (couldn't do O2 just yet). The old one's voltage was a bit off, but even after putting the new one on, correctly calibrated, the issue still persists. And like last time, it happened almost immediately after starting the car, and for about 10 minutes. This time, I finally have video:

https://vimeo.com/156790259

Note: just before the revs go back up, I can hear a ticking sound, perhaps electrical but I don't see any spark in the engine bay when it happens. Also the lights dim for a second in that same moment. When I say "ticking", I mean one "tick". More like a "click" maybe.

After I took that video, I put it in reverse, backed out, and started driving. It still hesitated for a handful of seconds, but then it was totally back to normal and stayed normal while I drove for, I'd say 10-15 minutes. Could just be a wild coincidence since the condition in neutral was persisting for almost 10 minutes already, which is the length it did the last time it happened, but maybe not? If not, I can't imagine why.

So as I said, the engine was totally normal when I drove for 10-15 minutes, but then it came back for another 3 or so minutes, then back to normal just as I arrived home, for another few minutes until I parked it. And here I am now.

Nomake Wan has come up with a couple suggestions: injectors, and (possibly) plugs. Plugs because there is a minor oil leak (more like sweating) in the engine bay which may be coating the plugs (I sincerely hope this isn't the case).
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Nomake Wan
Posted: Feb 25 2016, 07:32 PM


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I told him to check the plugs for simplicity's sake. Checking plug condition is basic diagnostics and might even help. Not to mention if they're coated he probably has a rings problem and can go from there. Injectors should be self-explanatory and an auditory check is in order.

Yay diagnostics!

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Spaz
Posted: Feb 26 2016, 09:53 AM


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Plugs always make sense to check. The S2k I drove up here from AZ a few weeks back had a VC gasket leak that kept killing plugs and actually took out a coil as well, we found once it was back here.

At the very least, I still practice the lost art of plug reading, so if you post pics I can maybe get an idea of what's up, if they aren't too far gone.
kyonpalm
  Posted: Mar 6 2016, 12:36 PM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ Feb 26 2016, 01:53 PM)
Plugs always make sense to check. The S2k I drove up here from AZ a few weeks back had a VC gasket leak that kept killing plugs and actually took out a coil as well, we found once it was back here.

At the very least, I still practice the lost art of plug reading, so if you post pics I can maybe get an idea of what's up, if they aren't too far gone.

Sorry for the late reply but here are my plugs:

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Spaz
Posted: Mar 9 2016, 10:30 PM


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Late response, The Division is my life now.

Anyway, #1, 2 and 4 look oily, is the valve cover gasket seeping on those cylinders? Not that it would cause it to run this poorly, but just checking. They don't smell like fuel or coolant at all, correct? Doesn't look like those but I just wanna make sure.

The other three look fine though.
kyonpalm
  Posted: Mar 9 2016, 10:35 PM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 3 minutes, 15 seconds ago)
... is the valve cover gasket seeping on those cylinders?

I do actually highly suspect the valve cover gasket to be fucked, as my previously-mentioned leak seems to be in that area. So probably, yes.

QUOTE (Spaz @ 3 minutes, 15 seconds ago)
They don't smell like fuel or coolant at all, correct? Doesn't look like those but I just wanna make sure.

I didn't check. Can do so next chance I get though.
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Spaz
Posted: Mar 9 2016, 10:38 PM


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QUOTE (kyonpalm @ 3 minutes, 50 seconds ago)
I didn't check. Can do so next chance I get though.

Drive it for a bit first, just in case. Fuel and coolant will evaporate and be harder to smell if they aren't fresh.
kyonpalm
  Posted: Mar 9 2016, 10:54 PM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 15 minutes, 16 seconds ago)
Drive it for a bit first, just in case. Fuel and coolant will evaporate and be harder to smell if they aren't fresh.

I've heard it's best to pull plugs when the engine's cold. Is that not a problem, then?
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Nomake Wan
Posted: Mar 9 2016, 11:00 PM


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QUOTE (kyonpalm @ 6 minutes, 14 seconds ago)
I've heard it's best to pull plugs when the engine's cold. Is that not a problem, then?

You won't burn your fingers, but you also won't have fresh evidence. Better to just man up, wear gloves, and pull 'em hot.
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kyonpalm
  Posted: Mar 10 2016, 08:23 AM


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QUOTE (Nomake Wan @ 9 hours, 22 minutes ago)
You won't burn your fingers, but you also won't have fresh evidence. Better to just man up, wear gloves, and pull 'em hot.

Not worried about burning myself, rather I've heard removing them hot can make the plug threads seize, causing damage to the cylinder head threads. Fact or fiction?
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Nomake Wan
Posted: Mar 10 2016, 10:53 AM


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Depends I guess? If you're torquing the shit out of them on an aluminum head, then yeah, but that'll happen cold too. Just be careful and it should be fine.

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MetalMan777
Posted: Mar 10 2016, 02:56 PM


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Most people who pull plugs do it after a drag pass. You run it WOT for a quarter mile, then shut it down, get towed back to the staging area/paddock, then read them. That'll tell you what's going on at the limit. If you can afford to shut it down right after having your issues then checking the plugs, that'll tell you what you want to know. Idling between experiencing the problem and shutting down will adulterate the results.
kyonpalm
  Posted: Mar 26 2016, 12:48 PM


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Update: ordered new valve cover gasket set to address the leak there. Once I've got that taken care of, I'll do an oil change for the heck of it, then throw on the new plugs and take another crack at the O2 sensors.
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kyonpalm
  Posted: Apr 9 2016, 01:54 PM


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Only dumb news in this update. Since ordering the new valve cover gasket and seal kit, I still haven't even finished performing that job. First, I tore one of the spark plug tube seal sets for the front cover when I re-affixed it, so I had to order another set and wait a few days. Then I broke a bolt on the rear cover when tightening it down to the torque spec. Now I have to wait for the closes stealership to get a bolt in because even they don't have them on-hand for some reason. Should have it by Tuesday.

So yeah, dumb stuff. But other than that, it's been going fairly smoothly, though I'm pretty positive that some of the threading for the at least the front cover is damaged, as some of the bolts for that cover never stopped turning when tightening and at some point got easier to tighten. Worst-case it consequentially won't be tight enough to seal properly and I'll just start leaking again... and that will be a lot harder to fix. Only time will tell, though.

Some more parts ordered, too - got a new throttle body gasket since I've already got that taken off, and got new plug wires because why not.
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Nomake Wan
Posted: Apr 9 2016, 03:11 PM


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Pretty sure you're right on the threads, pretty sure you're also right on how loose that cover is gonna be. Sounds like a previous owner over torqued the shit out of em. These are aluminum--they have torque specs for a reason.

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kyonpalm
  Posted: Apr 9 2016, 03:40 PM


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QUOTE (Nomake Wan @ 27 minutes, 57 seconds ago)
Pretty sure you're right on the threads, pretty sure you're also right on how loose that cover is gonna be. Sounds like a previous owner over torqued the shit out of em. These are aluminum--they have torque specs for a reason.

I can only hope it'll be good enough to not leak again. If it isn't, I probably won't mind doing the job again with some added silicone gasket maker for good measure, but I dunno if that'd be enough. If it still isn't, I'm not even sure what my options will be.
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Spaz
Posted: Apr 13 2016, 06:47 AM


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If they don't tighten, they'll need to be helicoiled. Which is always fun on a head. Trash bag and lots of tape to make sure the shavings don't go anywhere unwanted. The plus side is that aluminum is easy to drill and tap.
kyonpalm
  Posted: Apr 13 2016, 09:32 AM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 2 hours, 45 minutes ago)
If they don't tighten, they'll need to be helicoiled. Which is always fun on a head. Trash bag and lots of tape to make sure the shavings don't go anywhere unwanted. The plus side is that aluminum is easy to drill and tap.

Well, fortunately they did at least tighten to 6lb/ft (service manual suggests 8.7) so I'm hoping that along with the silicone I applied yesterday will be, as the adage goes, "good 'nuff". Will keep that in mind in case it isn't, though.

Aside from that, scraped off the old throttle body gasket and put the new one on. Gonna put everything back together (surely will be fun trying to remember which bolts go where, double and triple checking it's all there, etc.) and fire it up later today to see if the leak's history. Here's hoping.
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kyonpalm
  Posted: Apr 15 2016, 05:22 PM


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Good news and bad news.

Good news: pretty sure I've officially fixed the leak.

Bad news: the leak wasn't the problem.

Swapped the plugs and wires today (either the old plugs have gotten worse since I checked them or they just looked especially bad compared to the new ones) and drove it home. Got about five minutes into the drive before my throttle started cutting in and out like before, and far more erratically this time (though giving it more than 40-ish% still helps).

I shouldn't have expected any change, honestly, but it's still bringing me to my wit's end. My gut is telling me it might be directly throttle-related, but I don't know how.
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kyonpalm
  Posted: May 6 2016, 10:22 AM


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Update:

I tried testing the fuel pressure but since there's no schrader valve, I consulted my service manual and discovered I can just take off the pulsation damper to fit a gauge on... I soon found out I need a special Honda©™ adapter AS WELL AS a special Honda©™ gauge. Both of these cost around $50+. I would like to believe there's a special place in hell for the engineer responsible for this decision.

So, furious over that proprietary parts bull****, I decided to check up on my distributor as someone elsewhere suggested oil in it might be the cause. Lo and behold, I go to unscrew the distributor cap and while unscrewing one of the screws, I noticed some grimey stuff. Took the cap off, and...

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Needless to say, I have a new cap and rotor on the way. Also grabbed a new o-ring in case I need it. Dunno if this is the fix, but will update when I know. Will check up on IACV in addition to fuel if this doesn't help.

Also, I cleaned my EGR valve. I'll probably still have to get a new one but whatever.
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kyonpalm
  Posted: Dec 27 2016, 09:58 PM


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QUOTE (kyonpalm @ May 6 2016, 02:22 PM)
Also, I cleaned my EGR valve. I'll probably still have to get a new one but whatever.

Update: I still have to get a new one but whatever.

I did all that stuff I said I'd do and also threw in a new fuel pump, did nothing, cursed life and let it sit for some more months since I'm a lazy asshole and didn't really need a car at the time.

Finally got off my ass and had it looked at, guy said it was the O2 sensor. Didn't even believe him, but I had new upstream and downstream sensors already so figured what the hell, I needed to do something about the lean condition anyway. Immediately, the plague was over. Go fucking figure.

So now I have a car again. At least, until the trans goes bust. On that note, next orders of business...

-Flush and replace ATF with Honda Genuine™ (because anything else makes these trannys shit themselves apparently), should help the hard shifting a bit
-Recharge the AC (blows lukewarm, apparently didn't like being left untouched for over half a year)
-Fix the stuck horn switch in the airbag assembly (don't ask)
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Nomake Wan
Posted: Dec 28 2016, 12:21 AM


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R134a is notoriously shit at sitting and staying cold for long periods, especially in harsh conditions. So yeah, recharge it and hopefully you're good to go. If it goes cold again, then it's time to start diagnosing shot A/C components, which is always fun.
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THE_HONDA_CG2
Posted: Dec 31 2016, 09:56 AM


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Out of curiosity, how much money have you put into this car already?

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kyonpalm
  Posted: Jan 4 2017, 11:15 PM


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QUOTE (THE_HONDA_CG2 @ Dec 31 2016, 01:56 PM)
Out of curiosity,  how much money have you put into this car already?

Sorry, didn't notice this post until now. Ballpark guessing about $300 in parts and stuff so far (including fluids), maybe less.

Refrigerant refilled, AC blows nice and cold now. Just got my ATF in the mail today, will change that out at my next convenience.
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