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Lol, I was barely in those gears. They were just there to shift through after first going. I was in 3rd or 4th gear most of the time.

Le gasp! Something is happening in the cave of Tusky! Could it be a attack of the tape? Terrible origami using tape? New look for the 3000 utilizing the eco-friendly paper trash look? Something for AX? The world may never know...

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This post has been edited by Tuskano on Jun 23 2013, 02:11 AM

Looks like a Plasti Dip spray gun behind the car in the last photo

As an origami master, I approve of your car wrapping skills. It looks good! But what is this super secret mission project that you're undergoing?

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Nope! It is a paint gun! But.... it is still being used for plasti-dip so you are half right.

Remember that photoshop picture I did randomly of my car?

...

That's right, I am making one of the only Hachi Roku 3000GT ever.

At least from my knowledge.

This post has been edited by Tuskano on Jun 23 2013, 11:54 AM

Panda. Panda 3000GT. Not hachi-roku.

It's a 86+4 But Panda works too.

And so, here is a teaser of what to expect.

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Not sure if I ever took a picture of the inside, but looking back on my thread I guess not. But here is some bead fun.

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Huuuuuuu! Such a clean inheritor! And from the teaser it looks great! Will you be bringing the car to AX this year? I want to see it!

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It will be confirmed that it will make an appearance at AX this year. If I see any Tofu Shop decals there, I might end up getting one for it. Until the 17th of July, I will be pushing whatever is left from those terrible valve seals in its engine and it will make me happy. After that, it will be in a shop and I can rest easy.

I certainly hope that's a spark contained gun, or you just got lucky.

Plastidip has a flashpoint of -20 degrees Fahrenheit. That means at -20F, it produces enough vapor to ignite with a simple spark. Gasoline is -45. I generally put it to people this way at my job: If you wouldn't spray gasoline into the air while holding a match, don't spray plastidip with a non-spark contained gun.

We've been through all of this before...

I go through it once a week on EvolutionM practically. I can't remember everywhere I've brought it up, let alone if people have paid attention.

https://idforums.net/index.php?showtopic=45...dpost&p=1273760

Your badge, please.

It's spark contained, don't worry. Otherwise we wouldn't have used it in the first place. Before I bought the plasti-dip, I even took the gun with me and he looked it over and then we tested it.

One Q, two Q, red Q, blue Q.

I feel it is time to let down the curtain on my panda plasti-dipped beauty.

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Only issue I had was on the 3rd day of AX which I had found my 3s does not like the stop-and-go highway traffic in the heat. The engine overheated and when I pulled off the nearest exit into a neighborhood to cool off the engine, I found the coolant overflow container to be boiling. Tried to make it back to my hotel later that day in the nice cool 8-9 pm weather and I overheated again. This time with me ending up calling my insurance for a towtruck or more preferably a flatbed. A towtruck came, and luckily, mine is high enough to allow that. Even though I was nervous during each bump.

C@A (a autoshop that specializes in my car model that was 11 minute drive from the hotel) saved the day the following day. Found out I had a ruptured line and he also had replaced my thermostat (my water pump also looked brand new that we found out). Then he later did a drain and flush for my coolant. Thanks to him, I got home safely.

This post has been edited by Tuskano on Jul 8 2013, 07:36 PM

A ruptured coolant line would do it, yeah. I'm surprised you didn't hear the car pissing itself.

Same here. I was convinced it didn't leak because it never left any spots on the driveway or when I park anywhere. But it also might have ruptured during that day if it caught a air bubble in there or something.

This post has been edited by Tuskano on Jul 8 2013, 07:35 PM

Yes and no...

If a line is ruptured, you won't be bubbling anything into the coolant overflow, as the pressure will leave through the line rupture and not through the radiator cap into the bottle. It's a sealed system beyond the bottle, so the coolant can't "boil" in there.

Something isn't right.

Very true.

When it overheated the first time (in the morning to AX), I could feel it boiling within the coolant lines and within the overflow.

The second time when it overheated (in the evening), and then blew, was when the cut appeared. Which I was unable to locate myself after cleaning the engine. Most of the spray direction on the underside of my hood, and on the rest of the engine looked to be from the coolant cap which might have had exceeded the pressure it was rated for. That was what I had believed at the time.

After when that happened, I did not hear it boiling after I had limped it over to the autoshop or any other time when I had the engine on, because it was most likely escaping through that line.

You are correct that under normal operating pressure coolant shouldn't be able to reach its boiling point. However, since the bottle itself is open to atmosphere and thus not under pressure yet will be the same temperature as the coolant exiting the radiator via the overflow, it boils easily.

It does make me wonder what caused the initial overheat, however. If it wasn't ruptured before, that means it was stressed after the overheating condition began and ruptured, meaning it probably wasn't ruptured when it was overheating and spitting coolant into the overflow. On the SVX that's because the water pump inlet is the wrong size and thus at higher (~4000) RPMs the pump cavitates, but I don't know about the 3000GT. He didn't make it sound like it was RPM-based, he just made it sound like the system couldn't handle sitting still in traffic.

Are the fans operating properly? What's the radiator cap rated for, and what does the manufacturer suggest?

EDIT: As I mentioned to you at AX, Tuskano, if you can feel the coolant boiling within the coolant lines themselves--not the overflow--then you have a serious pressure issue within your cooling system. The system is supposed to be under pressure, thus making it so that the coolant cannot actually reach its boiling point. If it's boiling, it's not under pressure. If it's not under pressure, you've got a leak.

This post has been edited by Nomake Wan on Jul 8 2013, 09:09 PM

True, it was just in stop and go traffic 20-30mph and surrounded by lots of other hot cars that it started. That was also the first time I was in that traffic situation with it. Other times, I never have driven enough to heat up the engine that much. Or it was a easy drive with light to medium traffic.

Actually according to the autoshop, they said the fan that affects my A/C is not working. The others are fine. So, that cold air I have been getting was only from the air going through the vents when I drive. The drive down, I had my air on hot to help the engine.

On the maintenance manual, it says the cap limit is 9.2 psi, and the standard value is 11-15 psi. Now that I recall, I think on the cap itself it had said 60... it might have meant Kpa... which would have been 8.7 psi then. It was rusted on the underside too, so I had that replaced. I'll have to get back to you on what that new cap says on it when I check my coolant levels tomorrow morning.

I think the pressure issue was fixed... as I did not hear any boiling when I stopped at a rest stop halfway on my trip south, or also when I turned my car off when I got home in San Diego.

Hmm... so since it was boiling, I might have gotten that burst line earlier. But I am still confused as I did not see any signs of oil spray after that first overheating I had. But in that first incident, I was still able to feel it boil in the lines, and also physically hear it in the overflow.

Chances are near 100% it's not boiling in the overflow. If it's boiling in the block, it should be flash-boiling, and not a sustained boil. And it wouldn't be consistent. What you're probably hearing in the reservoir is bubbling from air being released from the system, either from it boiling in there or from air entering the system from elsewhere and rising to the cap.

However, if ANYTHING is leaving the cap and entering the reservoir, it means the system is under pressure, which means there's not a leak large enough to cause this, or the system would depressurize and the cap would stay shut.

I have suspicions, but I'll withhold them for now.

Spaz nailed it down pretty good. A pinhole leak may go unnoticed, and still allow enough pressure to bump some stuff into overflow. If its enough to release the pressure, it will overheat at lower temperatures since pressure raises the boiling point and it could be flash boiling without it.

The 'boiling' in the overflow shouldn't happen if its a system where the overflow isn't pressurized. The reality of it is, that usually when it seems like overflow is boiling, you have a head gasket leaking between the water jacket and combustion chamber, and it eeks combustion into the cooling system. That air finds its way to the top and pushes out into the overflow and makes it look and sound like its boiling. Not the happiest news, but if it isn't doing the overflow 'boiling' anymore, I'd say thats likely not the problem. Of course, there are a couple other rare things that may cause it.

Fair enough, but again, it depends on what the cap is rated for. I believe on the SVX the standard is 14 PSI. If he had a really low-pressure cap on, then it wouldn't take much to spit into the overflow.

However, what he said was that he could feel the water bubbling in the coolant lines themselves, not the overflow line. I think that should be the focus here.