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I am currently taking a break from working on a 1999 Chevrolet Express conversion van which had symptoms of inoperative air conditioning. The owner decided that if one can of AC sealant was good, two must be better. The high side pressure was way too low, and the low side pressure was way too high. This combined with a lack of any air conditioning performance is evidence of a system blockage. I figured there would be a moderate blockage somewhere in the system, but what I just found is much worse.

The liquid line that I removed from the evaporator case near the orifice tube (note that it's a liquid line) is absolutely full of a solid, chalky substance. The sealant did such a good job that it's hardened and blocked off the system. If it's managed to block off this line, I can't wait to see what else it has damaged. This "chalk" might be filling every line and component in the system.

In a nutshell, the entire AC system is more than likely ruined due to someone overusing some Autozone crap. Make sure you do your homework on stuff like this.

That sealant stuff is not a good idea to begin with. If you have a leak, it's better to fix it the right way.

That's what I tell everyone who buys it at work.

But I work on the border of North Minneapolis, so there's not much in the way of desire or funding to do it right the first time.

I do admit to using it in the past though. It's good for making the AC on a $1K beater work for a season.

Considering that 80% of the vehicles coming in are $1k beaters IMO, I guess I can't really blame them.

Meh one can is fine Its when you get stupid with the shit that this happens. But that said, its not hard to find AC leaks. Either look around for the leak or use the UV stuff and replace the seal or flex hose.

Bubs, I feel sorry for you Stop telling people you know how to work on cars.

thats what I do

"hey aaron, you know cars right ?"

"ummm...I can drive them ?"

This one isn't a problem for me, I've managed to get it tied into my class so I'm getting class credit for it. It's this guy's conversion van, one with the raised roof, television, etc.

I just replaced the evaporator today, since that was junk as well. Condenser goes in tomorrow. I think the new compressor arrives tomorrow as well. I took apart the old compressor just for shits and giggles, and it's pretty messed up. The cylinders inside the compressor are all scored to shit because the oil that is supposed to lubricate the compressor pistons was replaced with sealant. It didn't seize up, however surprising that may be. The orifice tube was plugged with sealant as well.

It's not all that surprising why the vents were blowing warm air at all times.

Good times. I had a junk AC compressor i brought back from the grave once. What does that mean? I took a seized compressor, put anal lube inside it, got a 4 foot monkey wrench, and then tried to work the bastard to it spun free and smooth- which surprisingly, it did!.

We installed it onto my car, charged the system- and i was very ecstatic about the cold air that started to blow through my vents. This lasted for 30 seconds before the pump gave up the ghost for good. Sigh.

I am pretty sure you meant penetrating lubricant there?

Nah, you know Sideways, he always has anal lube on hand just in case.

I didnt hear you complaining last time

The van's AC system is operating "normally" again.

This was after replacing the:
Condenser
Evaporator
Compressor
Accumulator
Most of the lines in the system
Owner opting to eliminate the rear AC, opting not to spend more money replacing components

It works just fine now.

So, what didn't you replace, aside from what was mentioned?

Need to get my A/C fixed or upgraded. This summer has been hotter than I had anticipated.

This post has been edited by Kiroshino on Jul 28 2010, 10:43 AM

There were a couple of lines that managed to, somehow, not get clogged with sealant. Those were the only pieces that did not require replacement to restore the system to operating condition.

(THIS POST WAS REMOVED BY REQUEST)

Lack of lubricant, most likely.

Agreed. There probably was little or no refrigerant oil left in the system due to a leak or otherwise. Sometimes, however, it just seems that compressors will just die due to age or defects. Same goes with alternators (although there isn't any lubrication system for them, haha), sometimes there are just "dud" parts. A friend of mine bought a remanufactured one that lasted about thirty seconds.

I put a reman caliper on a buddy's car last night, went to bleed it, and the bleeder screw twisted right off with little force. Apparently they don't check the threads on them.

Ok guys, my AC in my 528 doesn't work. My dad got me a kit to convert it to R134. The kit contains 3 cans of "R134 REFRIDGERANT AND STOP LEAK." I assume the lube is premixed in the can. I also assume my R12 all escaped long ago, because my AC doesn't blow even remotely cold.

I'm apprehensive as hell about this can of goop. I assume it's not going to up and blow the system, but I have no experience with this crap to tell me otherwise. Should I do it and hope for the best, or just keep running without AC?

Worst case scenario: I seize the compressor or blow a line and am right back where I started, without functional AC.

Best case scenario, works for a couple months.

Those kits can and do work ( tmeporarily ). It all depends on how much money are you willing to sink into the car ( or how long you are planning to keep it ).

I've used it with success in past, but on junkers that were worth $1000 or so, so it wasn't worth it to spend any more on them.

Read the instructions carefully though, you need to check for oil, then add the stop leak as described, then the correct amount of oil, then the correct amount of refrigerant. Don't put in too much... >_<

Here's the thing that pisses me off. The kit comes with 3 cans of what I can only assume is R134, oil, and some stop leak mixed together. The cans are all exactly the same. I'd love to add oil and refridgerant separately, so that I could try not to bork the system. Now I can only put it in to the prescribed pressure and pray.

This post has been edited by Dick Gumshoe on Jul 31 2010, 01:33 AM

You also need to get all of the old oil out. If it doesn't give you a way to do that, then you need to find a way to do so. R134A will not work with the R12 mineral oil, period.

Is it the Redtek or the Duracool kit?

Quest made the kit. It looks pretty darn Generic. Also my system actually has pressure in it. So now I have to have it evacuated.

On the bright side, the compressor oil is esther based, so it's supposed to be compatable.

This post has been edited by Dick Gumshoe on Jul 31 2010, 06:01 PM