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> Celbii's RedSuns FC3S Build
celbii
  Posted: Nov 26 2013, 06:18 AM


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QUOTE (Banken @ 6 hours, 18 minutes ago)
I'll take part of my statement back. You can get those numbers if you are very lucky, with a big, big streetport AND when you change to higher compression rotors (you have an S4, he used S5 rotors) AND remove the sleeves (which means you lose low-end power because you disable the variable timing) AND use a completely different intake manifold and a bigger throttle...

But as I was stating, and as everyone in the threads were stating, with those numbers he could have made well over 200 hp with tuning.

Yeah I think lower in his thread he posts an update where they do some fuel management and hit 190+? And I am considering using s5 rotors if I can get my hands on some by the middle of next year. Who knows we will see when it happens happy.gif
Spaz
Posted: Nov 26 2013, 09:39 AM


I just wanna go fast
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Meh, just put a carb on it, tune with a screw driver, and enjoy the power gains beyond. Plus ALL OF THE FIRE.
Banken
Posted: Nov 26 2013, 05:21 PM


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QUOTE (Spaz @ 7 hours, 42 minutes ago)
Meh, just put a carb on it, tune with a screw driver, and enjoy the power gains beyond. Plus ALL OF THE FIRE.

In that case it's not the carbs themselves giving you the power, it's really the intake manifold... the best thing for an NA rotary would be a custom intake manifold and multiple throttles. You would be losing low end though.
Spaz
Posted: Nov 27 2013, 08:21 AM


I just wanna go fast
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QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 8:21 PM)
In that case it's not the carbs themselves giving you the power, it's really the intake manifold... the best thing for an NA rotary would be a custom intake manifold and multiple throttles. You would be losing low end though.

Well, obviously it's not the carb itself.

ITBs, stand off injectors, if you really want to spend money. Man stuff.
celbii
  Posted: Nov 27 2013, 12:31 PM


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I'm sticking with the girl stuff! lol
celbii
  Posted: Dec 2 2013, 11:13 AM


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Not much of an update, but changed out the fuel filter and went to change the fuel pump filter but the last little rusted screw ended up breaking on me so not much progress there till I get a chance to try to ez out that tiny bastard. On a happier note the GF went half in on some seats with me for my christmas present, so they are ordered and should show up probably next week smile.gif
Banken
Posted: Dec 3 2013, 12:47 AM


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QUOTE (celbii @ Yesterday, 11:13 AM)
Not much of an update, but changed out the fuel filter and went to change the fuel pump filter but the last little rusted screw ended up breaking on me so not much progress there till I get a chance to try to ez out that tiny bastard. On a happier note the GF went half in on some seats with me for my christmas present, so they are ordered and should show up probably next week smile.gif

Don't spend a bunch of money on two cheap seats, spend a bunch of money on one really, really good one.

The difference between a generic seat and a brand name one is night and day (mostly in terms of rigidity and hold).
celbii
  Posted: Dec 3 2013, 06:38 AM


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I'm not going to spend 4k on a pair of seats for a car I spent 3.3 on. I'd rather spend that on the engine lol.
Spaz
Posted: Dec 3 2013, 09:21 AM


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Having not been held by an intermediate seat (stock Evo seat, not a racing bucket but not a standard bucket, either), I can say for certain that any car I will ever drive in anger from now on is getting a quality racing seat and a harness. There's no better safety device out there than one that keeps you absolutely stationary in an accident.
Banken
Posted: Dec 5 2013, 04:25 AM


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QUOTE (celbii @ Dec 3 2013, 06:38 AM)
I'm not going to spend 4k on a pair of seats for a car I spent 3.3 on. I'd rather spend that on the engine lol.

Were you listening at all? Spend $800-1600 on ONE seat. You don't need to upgrade a passenger seat.

I'm speaking from a purely performance standpoint, not from safety, but having a racing bucket seat and a six-point harness (don't skimp and get a five... six have been proven to be much safer and it's only one more hole that needs to be drilled) will make you a much better driver. It's instant lap times.


By the way, the amount you spent on the base car is irrelevant. The only thing that matters is whether or not you possess a competent track car that performs as as well or better than brand new car for less money. If you have to spend $1500 on a seat that fits you perfectly and $4,000 on suspension mods to achieve the level of performance you want, then so be it.

FWIW, if you have $10,000 in reusable upgrade parts in a $1000 car and total it on the track, you're not out of $11,000... unless it catches on fire... you just need another $1000 car and some elbow grease. That is my philosophy at least, which is why I don't spend money on bodywork and paint. You can't get that money back.

Don't bother with rebuilding the engine unless the compression or low or uneven (you need a special rotary engine tester to check it though). You're better off rebuilding the transmission and the differential (if you had an LSD) in most cases...

This post has been edited by Banken on Dec 5 2013, 04:35 AM
celbii
  Posted: Dec 5 2013, 07:27 AM


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From what I understand it is bad to have a harness in a car with no roll cage and what not. Either way I have already ordered a pair of bride gias reps, said and done. This is not a pure track car and still street driven. There is no way I can race on this engine as it is. It eats too much oil at WOT, I'd risk running way to low on oil and causing bad damage on a 15 minute run at the track here. If im going to track the car, i'm going to pull out the engine first and go over everything and get the rebuild done so it will last, its cheaper to do the build while theoretically all the core components are still reusable also.
Spaz
Posted: Dec 5 2013, 09:39 AM


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Then get a harness bar if you can't or won't do a full cage. You need SOMETHING to support the harness that isn't the seat, and it needs to be sturdy enough to keep you safe. Outside of that, how much or how little extra chassis rigidity it adds is completely up to you.
celbii
  Posted: Dec 5 2013, 10:56 AM


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I'm planning on running stock seatbelts.
Spaz
Posted: Dec 5 2013, 02:25 PM


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Then don't do seats at all.

In the end, it's your back and pelvis. wink2.gif
Banken
Posted: Dec 5 2013, 07:54 PM


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No, a seat upgrade is still the biggest single change you can make to how a car feels, even without harness belts.

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backalleyracer
Posted: Dec 5 2013, 09:09 PM


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I'd say tires, since you know... it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. But that is just me.
celbii
  Posted: Dec 5 2013, 09:40 PM


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QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 31 minutes, 40 seconds ago)
I'd say tires, since you know... it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. But that is just me.

Seats are already ordered and arriving tomorrow depending on weather. I had aftermarket seats in my old FC with stock seat belts and they were just fine, this isn't my first rodeo lol.

wheels and tires will happen when I do the 5 lug swap, for now its not seeing any track time and the all seasons on it are fairly new and decent. I can't wait to put a nice set of tires on it though in the future smile.gif
Banken
Posted: Dec 6 2013, 02:49 AM


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QUOTE (backalleyracer @ 5 hours, 39 minutes ago)
I'd say tires, since you know... it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. But that is just me.

Tires are the biggest performance factor (besides power to weight ratio and downforce...but that's another story), but in my opinion no single change on an old car like an FC makes as much of a difference in 1. how the car physically feels to the driver 2. how well the driver can drive the car 3. how much fun the car is to drive than a high quality full bucket seat. The difference will be less pronounced when compared to an R35 GT-R seat, of course. But nothing beats a fixed-back racing seat.

On a car as slow as an S4 NA FC, you're always going to be reasonably well connected to the road, even with regular street tires... but unless the driver is connected to the car, you can't get 100% out of the tires. In my opinion, harden the softest part of the car first. The softest part of the car is the driver, and then the seat.


FWIW, upgrading the tires on a car with a 25 year-old suspension with 100,000+ miles is a waste of money. Fresh dampers and bushings would make a bigger difference in handling (if not absolute performance) than moving from summer street tires to R-comps since the amount of roll would be insane (the FC's stock suspension settings were intended for 30 year-old tire technology). As would an alignment and dialing in some camber.

Assuming you start with some reasonably competent tires to begin with, of course.

If you ever find yourself in a high-speed corner that just happens to perfectly match your suspension, it is a *amazing* how much grip street tires really have. Rather than upgrading tires that you aren't getting 100% out of, I'd say suspension mods that let you use more of their grip on more more corners is better. But to do that, you have to lower the car, use a lot of camber, and use really stiff dampers and springs... I think I have only REALLY maxed out my tires once, and ironically after upgrading my suspension twice (sway bars and then coilovers), I have yet to feel the same amount of lateral G's on that same corner as I did that one time. Without my bucket seat and harness belts I would have literally slid out of the seat.
celbii
  Posted: Dec 6 2013, 08:09 AM


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energy suspension bushing master kit, dtss elims, and bc racing coils are all on the list at this point smile.gif Just more time and money to get them lol. I can't wait to get off the stock springs and struts they are so shot its not funny sad.gif


Thanks for all the advice as always! I appreciate all the feedback and tips I am receiving smile.gif

What are your thoughts on the Momo tuner steering wheel 350mm? I just sold my gotham last night and I am thinking about picking up a tuner and selling the race.

This post has been edited by celbii on Dec 6 2013, 08:11 AM
Banken
Posted: Dec 6 2013, 09:41 AM


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It's basically the same thing. In the end, wheels are just preference. I like suede with the thumb rests putting my hands right at 9 and 3.

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celbii
  Posted: Dec 6 2013, 07:25 PM


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Got the reps in today. They are nicer than I expected. Look and almost feel like the real things. Have all the correct tags and stickers also. The only thing on them that would give me any doubt is the plastic ratcheting handles arent an exact fit on the rod so they have a little slop before they start turning, other than that I can see why people are very easily fooled by these lol. Fit me pretty darn well also they are tiny.

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Banken
Posted: Dec 7 2013, 04:36 PM


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Sigh... you bought knockoffs? As I said, while they might look the same, the rigidity, quality, and safety are incomparable.

You should have bought ONE real Bride seat and left the passenger seat stock.
celbii
  Posted: Dec 8 2013, 09:14 AM


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QUOTE (Banken @ Yesterday, 4:36 PM)
Sigh... you bought knockoffs? As I said, while they might look the same, the rigidity, quality, and safety are incomparable.

You should have bought ONE real Bride seat and left the passenger seat stock.

Yeah, I stated a couple post ups I bought reps. I know how they are, i've read plenty of reviews and opinions before buying them. I couldn't even afford one real bride seat, would have costed double than what i paid for this pair. Anyways, like I said before they are ordered and done and delivered. They feel way better than the old worn out stocker and worth the price I paid for them to me.

We got the drivers side installed on a whim yesterday, took us the better half of the day to custom everything to mate them up to the oem rails. Passenger side wont be going in any time soon since its even more of a PITA to do, I may just try to find some sort of rails for it.

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Banken
Posted: Dec 8 2013, 05:24 PM


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You could have easily bought one Sparco, Corbeau, or Cobra seat for the price of two Chinese illegal Bride knockoffs.
celbii
  Posted: Dec 8 2013, 06:58 PM


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QUOTE (Banken @ 1 hour, 33 minutes ago)
You could have easily bought one Sparco, Corbeau, or Cobra seat for the price of two Chinese illegal Bride knockoffs.

Thats okay I like these, they fit my smaller frame much better, and they arent Chinese or illegal knockoffs? They are made in Taiwan under their trademark there, still not real japan bride, but just thought id correct that lol.

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