love the music!
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| Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Version 5 General Discussion > IDAS5 Beginner's Guide |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 10 2010, 10:20 PM | ||||||||||
| SO YOU WANT TO LEARN, DO YOU?! Mkay. Look around, see if we have what you need. If not, feel free to ask. We played our hearts ( and wallets ) out so that you don't have to! ...As much. Absolute beginner's guide to playing the game
Guide for Playing in the wet
Don't want to or cant watch the video? Here's the Summary.
Getting Owned in battles by some stock car? This may be why.
More in Depth guides Spoiler'd for length.
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| Posted by: peachsnow Jul 12 2010, 08:22 AM |
| okay so i think im getting it now b4 you come to turn corner like you shift down first then brake ? say for the first turn big turn in Akina you should shift down to 2 slowly as you approach it and then break? |
| Posted by: stormfox Jul 12 2010, 09:16 AM |
| heeh~ nice vid with good general tips to start off people~ love the music! |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 12 2010, 03:18 PM | ||
Do it at the same time. You engine brake and you use the discs to slow down. I wont tell you where you should brake; because you can figure that out by yourself. Just remember that as long as you are gliding through the turn WITHOUT going sideways, in 2nd gear, at around the same speed people in videos pull that off with, you're doing it right. |
| Posted by: peachsnow Jul 12 2010, 11:49 PM |
| Mann... That breaking is hard can you please explain it in detail like what i gotta do? i know you want us to think of our own way butt please just help? well build on from there i get how you said okay break down to 80 - 90 acceptable speed then to make it even more nice break like do i tap? again or like Hard break mid break?! what please and thank i love you (: no homo |
| Posted by: stormfox Jul 13 2010, 07:20 AM |
| for starters... use the KISS.... Keep It Simple.... this is for general akina hairpins.. .other corners may vary... -- start braking before the corner (or thereabouts.. judge yourself by speed and target speed) -- continue braking while turning in -- still brake while turning -- exit with acceleration. the lining you can see from the numerous videos out there. if you have to force the wheel for the car to turn, you are too fast if the car is not under your control at any time, you are overdoing it. keep it smooth for starters... smooth and steady is the basic lesson. Nakazato R32 style. |
| Posted by: justxsongs Jul 13 2010, 07:48 AM | ||
Err dun mind, I say about the -- still brake while turning? Depend. I brake half of the curve, after that let go of brake den -- exit with acceleration All the hairpin, I do that. Correct mii if I doing it wrongly.. |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 13 2010, 07:20 PM |
| well for akina corners most of them u need to hold on brake till u reached the 60s mark then only u can reaccel for both grip n drift techniques ... to keep it simple as i have shown @Sadox last night with his FD3 when coming to corners u need to start braking early via the steering turned to catch a better lining n braking into the apex when the speed drops till 60+ while holding the brake i do some half gas pumping when i m still turning ... once u r about to clear the corner u juz let go off your brakes n there u go with a faster reaccel speed  hope this help some of your problems n good luck |
| Posted by: peachsnow Jul 13 2010, 08:32 PM |
| Thank you i will try it Saturday |
| Posted by: initiald34 Jul 13 2010, 08:49 PM |
| @peachsnow lol im gonna try to break 3:20 on akina saturday haha. hope they fixed the left machine so it reads cards |
| Posted by: justxsongs Jul 14 2010, 02:07 AM | ||
Haha but still all my curve at 70 plus.... Drift... |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 14 2010, 04:49 AM |
| hmm ok lets break down the akina corner speeds 1. 1st right corner of akina 60+ 2. the quick left-right combo where u need to off gas n brake at the short right at 78/80 3. the next left will b at 60+ 4. the right corner b4 cp1 at 125+/- 5. cp2 1st right corner 60+ n the next left corner at 60+ 6. the butterfly curse 1st left off gas when u enter the gutter at 170/171 brake till 79/80 7. RHOD at 60+ 8. 3 lane turn at 60+ 9. 5 cons hairpins > 1st at 60+, 2nd at 70+, 3rd at 70+, 4th 60+ n last at 70+ 10. the left corner b4 fireworks at 80+ 11. fireworks right corner at 70+ drift techniques required the weight management of the car to be balance/lighten (via countersteer) when u reaccel with a heavy steering then u r penalised ...  |
| Posted by: stormfox Jul 14 2010, 07:21 AM | ||
yep correct. the point is to not to release brake too early and coast through the corner. for starters that is. once get more familiar can start to tweak the exit accel point. most corners are half to 3/4 of the curve is under braking. just keeping it simple for Starters... they can go experiment the rest of the stuff...  thats where the fun is |
| Posted by: hellfire88 Jul 15 2010, 01:04 AM |
| more lining guides pls! very good stuff the lining guide, must easier to understand as compared to watching ta videos. anyway i wanna ask the different methods between driving in dry vs wet conditions. do we have to brake more in wet courses as compare to dry courses. cant seem to get good timings on wet courses so wanna find out more abt the wet courses physics. thanks |
| Posted by: ishida Jul 15 2010, 02:10 AM |
wow , i don't think this is being a beginners guide anymore... its getting more and more advanced.... very good job doing this , appreciate it a lot...  |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 15 2010, 05:42 AM | ||
Yeah. If you went in with the same speeds in wet that you push in Dry, you'd probably understeer like a female dog. You have to slow down a bit more to clear the corner tightly. But wet isn't my cup of tea. Brian does it pretty well though; so if he wants, we could record him doing a wet course and explaining it. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Jul 15 2010, 10:00 AM |
| ^ just the man i need! now if only there would be a chance of us crossing paths again @ G4, then i would indeed make you the cameraman... XD actually, i already have an explanation in mind, so what i'll do is i'll send you a PM either here or on facebook... and it's up to you where you want to place those explanations when you edit the video... well, i can't really say i'm great in the wet, it's just that i have more patience than most players to deal with wet maps... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 15 2010, 03:38 PM | ||
Hey, I'm not the one running around hunting down every top spot for the maps. Probably gonna be better if you did it; The RS is more used than my '8 anyway, so handling and whatnot should be more familiar to the users. |
| Posted by: peachsnow Jul 17 2010, 05:37 PM |
| Guys i just noticed. something Crazy i was on a sorta tuned not really actually just 7 2 2 0 0 and against stock cars im losing ? wth! i was driving an S2000 Then crazy thing i went on with a stock car a different car Uhm an Evolution i won am i tripping. or does S2000s are bad? |
| Posted by: Icey Jul 17 2010, 09:59 PM |
| is depends on your skills in ID5, all cars are the same except some are course car |
| Posted by: justxsongs Jul 17 2010, 10:28 PM |
| lining is very impt for boost. Sometimes I miss some corner line. But normal lining helps alot. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 18 2010, 12:35 AM | ||
Just because your engine's top speed tuning is maxed out doesn't mean you're going to win by sheer power. We're not on a highway where it's a horsepower game. You're tripping, my good man. Odds are, you're being out-braked, out-accelerated, he has better lining than you, or a combination of any of the three. ID is not about how much money you spent on the car. It's more on how much you spent on learning the game itself. Were you playing Boost on or Boost off? If it was On, then well, hey, anything goes. |
| Posted by: ishida Jul 18 2010, 04:35 AM |
| DigiBunny , will there be a guide for nagao? hope there will so that we all can learn to attack the gutters than falling into it... |
| Posted by: peachsnow Jul 18 2010, 11:45 AM |
| Nah it was Boost Off and Lining maybe its there but it doesn't make sense i switched cars and beat him on the maps i lost on |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 18 2010, 02:55 PM | ||
Yes there will! Granted, I'm not very good at Nagao, but I dont fall into gutters, so yeah. I'll see about uploading it today. |
| Posted by: ChiyoV Jul 19 2010, 06:22 PM |
| Do you have any tips for playing with an automatic car? I know it wouldn't beat most records, but any tips to be competitive and be up there with the faster times? In theory, automatic shouldn't be as bad as old eraser techniques wouldn't really do anything in 5 anymore. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 19 2010, 06:29 PM | ||
At the end of the Absolute Beginner's guide, I mentioned the Manual/Auto thing. Auto is going to upshift right before you redline, so you can't control your entry speeds into corners. It also donwshifts according to the RPM it hits, so that screws up any late braking you would normally be able to do. You can downshift MANUALLY, but it'll go down 2 gears instead of one. It's much easier to just suck it up and use manual instead of wracking your brain to do well in a flawed system. |
| Posted by: bloodyredd Jul 20 2010, 03:36 AM |
| May I ask? What car would you guys recommend for me? RX-7, BNR32 or Evo 7? Coz I saw the show me your car thread and I saw those three with good set ups damn cant decide. Although the arcade here only has IDAS4. :/ |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 20 2010, 05:45 AM | ||
ermm try to ask at the V4 thread ... as far as i can remember i was fine with d 86 in V4 |
| Posted by: justxsongs Jul 20 2010, 07:08 AM |
| Digibunny, I do a video for akina DHD, den u help mii edit? It's to show the lining at bumper view with explaination... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 20 2010, 07:14 AM |
| I'm cool with that. Send me the raw materials you'd like to use, and we'll get on with it. Upload times may vary though; I'm sitting here tearing my hair out because the videos always fall just short of 5% upload before the connection slaughters itself. |
| Posted by: bloodyredd Jul 21 2010, 04:20 AM | ||
Anyway what would you recommend from the three cars? |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 21 2010, 05:30 AM |
| as usual depends on which maps u whd wan 2 focus n played to your potential ... out of the 3 for me i will definitely choose RX7-FC3 coz i like playing akagi dhd |
| Posted by: bloodyredd Jul 22 2010, 01:22 AM |
| Which is better in terms of handling? How about speed? Evo 7 or BNR32 or GC8 or FD3S? |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 22 2010, 01:42 AM | ||
it have been almost 1yr v change to playing v5 ... reli forgot bout V4 techniques n cars ... juz go to V4 discussion thread u can find your answers in the car threads ... |
| Posted by: TougeSpirit Jul 22 2010, 05:23 PM |
| The FD3s is the best out of your choices for idas4, but the s2k, trueno, and cappuchino will slaughter it |
| Posted by: RIT_ninja Jul 22 2010, 08:21 PM | ||
I just started playing ID5 after quitting ID3 and ID4 for long time. But I would like to share a few piece of advice to fellow new players that I learned from ppl who TA Akina and get 3'07"XX who are not too arrogant to help out noobs 1. Get used to the physics by practicing Akina, because its the basic course for all IDAS 2. if your aim is to master Nagao, I suggest practicing Akina DH, then Happo to master some foot work, then you can move onto Nagao. 3. Full tune your car is a priority in getting better times after you master braking points and figured out a good line (IMO). Work on one car at a time 4. Use in-in-in technique at hairpins and brake early. Start accelerating out of a hairpin when you're more than 3/4 through 5. stay with heavier steering settings like around 5-ish to get a feel for the game. Lighter feedback will be harder to get used to the physics Some say that hitting 3'20"XX under on Akina, means ur improving. 3'15"XX under should be pretty standard for full tuned cars and 3'10"XX under means you're in good shape if anyone can correct my Akina DH breakdown, I'd gladly appreciate My Akina DH breakdown assuming a clean run and not full tuned. This breakdown maybe considered "slow", but it helps you get the feel for the game CP1 1. first left turn: let go of the gas, aim for above 140kmh. Enter the gutter once you get used to it 2. next right turn: let go of the gas for less than a second while turning. 3. first hairpin: brake 2 car lengths or more ahead of the corner, speed about 65~75, don't go too fast, save your tires for boost! Once you're used to it, get closer to the apex or the inside of the corner. 4. next sharp left right: brake to about 80+/-, exit and accelerate 5. quickly comes up the next left hairpin: 70+/-, then turn right full throttle 6. sharp right: brake and gas quickly, about 125~140 depends on how long you gas CP2 1. First right hairpin: brake early! same, do 70+/- 2. next left hairpin, same 70+/- 3. keep going, and at the long left turn (butterfly), let go of the gas and as you approach the sharp left, brake to about 80+/-. Once you're used to it, gutter the left turn 4. a right turn and a left (gutter it) 5. the next right, let go of the gas for a second, the next left, let go and gutter the turn. Don't accelerate until your car is straight, you should be getting 135kmh exiting 6. then comes the right hairpin, brake early to about 60~70kmh. Once you're used to it, start guttering the entire right turn. Stay in the gutter on the straight away until the turn ends CP3 1. after exiting the last of the S turn, start braking into the left hairpin. I say 60~70kmh if ur saving your boost. Stay on the inside and remember in-in-in 2. on the next sharp left, let go of the gas and accelerate when your car is straight. Accelerate through the next right 3. when you see the 5 consecutive, brake about 3 car lengths ahead of the 1st hairpin, around 60~70kmh for all the hairpin turns. Once you get used to it, gutter all the hairpins here. CP4 1. you get a nice long straight before 2 more hairpins, again, do 70+/- on both 2. the next left hairpin, hit about 80kmh 3. the next right, go for 70+/- 4. now this is where you've been saving your boost and tire for the whole time, run freely through the next 2 pairs of smooth left and rights 5. let go of the gas on the next steeper left turn, downshift to 4th gear, accelerate when your car is straight 6. the next sharp right, let go of the gas and stay in 4th gear, after the next left turn, you're done! remember, play grip, not drift The reason why Akina DH is easier than other courses is because most corners are taken either 60kmh, 70kmh or 80kmh in second gear, so its repetitive and easy for beginners to learn Do NOT attempt the drift style driving until you are very familiar with the physics and can maneuver your car through various lines in a hairpin |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 22 2010, 09:00 PM | ||
I do have a few points I'd like to clarify. The breakdown itself is a tad slow, yes, but it does work well enough for a beginner. And even a run with some wall scrape with the gutter will allow you to get good times. 3.) I dont think you need an FT car immediately to get a better time in that sense; That would be just like buying a better car just to go faster. Full Tune helps, yes, but your focus should really stay on your driving. 4.)I use an out-in line. Otherwise I end up turning the steering wheel too much, and shave off boost. 3'20 with a stock car means you know what you're doing, and you aren't half bad for a new player. 3'15 with an FT would mean you understand the physics well enough, and you need fine tuning in all the other aspects (Late braking, earlier acceleration, etc.) A 3'10 with NOT a Trueno means you don't need to be reading this guide anymore; you need to be back out there and experimenting on how to chop off those last little seconds in your way. |
| Posted by: hellfire88 Jul 22 2010, 09:27 PM |
| hmm my akina always cannot improve. i think akina lining is very very impt, if my lining is off my timing will be +1.xxx secs anyway my akina ae86 is 3.14.xxx while my evo7 and fd3s6 is arnd 3.15.xxx (all full tuned) best for iro dh is ae86 3.10.xxx happo ob is fd3s6 3.10.xxx tsukuba ob is evo7 3.09.xxx my nagao uh and dh is bad(very hard to master this map) any tips on how to improve overall? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 22 2010, 11:23 PM | ||
Brake later and accelerate sooner. If your lining is in fact dead on and you can't change that, then this is all I can think of. Personally if your time is 3'15ish on Akina DHD, I doubt your lining is right on. My 3'15 times months ago lacked alot of the gutters I can get right now, and I always found myself going much wider than I thought I did watching replays. And then there's that final turn. Nagao's guide, as well as Tsukuba OB and Myogi DH are incoming; but again, I still havent the bandwith to upload it recently. Yeah, we do emphasize that boost is all important, and thus, so is saving it. Buuuuuut! Therein lies the hard part of the game; figuring out how you can use the boost to it's limits without tearing it to pieces inappropriately. |
| Posted by: hellfire88 Jul 22 2010, 11:45 PM |
| thanks for the advice digibunny. my akina lining is not dead on. my best lining at 3.15.xxx is still off. lining at akina very difficult especially at the high speed corners at near the end of cp2. last turn gutter i also cannot get. if i get i will hit the wall and timing = gone case. usually i try to avoid but i lose a lot of speed aft the turn |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 23 2010, 07:18 PM |
| to all who would want to improved your akina dhd TA i wish u guyz all the best ... it took me lots of time n $$$ to improved my skills with some good advices fr my team mates ... u guyz need to have the patients n adapt to changes when necessary ... most of the times when i see newbies playing this map they just doesnt want to learn n correct themselves ... even tho when they saw me or my mates playing akina dhd i tot they might have learn a thing or few but when they played, it is still the same way they were playing ... watching videos n live are totally different coz u can see the footworks n may b able to ask a few questions n clear your doubts ... at the end of the day the most important thing from yourself is how strong your will to learn remember > enjoy n have fun learning |
| Posted by: bloodyredd Jul 24 2010, 04:59 AM |
| Which sounds better Evo7, GC8 or BNR32? 8D |
| Posted by: Randy Jul 24 2010, 07:31 AM | ||
Well, still have yet to drive an Evo VII, so I don't know about that. For me, I find GC8's engine sounds pretty smooth and pretty strong, while the R32 is pretty loud and that BOV sound it makes everytime you let go off your gas is kinda thrilling.  If you really want a super-loud engine sounding machine, the JZA80 or R34 is probably for you. |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Jul 24 2010, 10:17 AM | ||
If I were there I would sure to look at your foot work and try to imetate your style.... I sure to apriciate your advice..... |
| Posted by: justxsongs Jul 24 2010, 10:41 AM |
| Actually I find this guide help for those beginners but not only beginners also. I pick up some points and going to try them. Although I use Evo7, 3'08"xxx akina dhd. Still this guide give more idea or points to try.=D |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 24 2010, 09:04 PM | ||
observing my mt8 IN playing V5 til today i found out tat every player have their own style ... gone were the days in V2 n V3 where u can watch players doing the same thing eraser n TST at the same time ... V5 is totally different, every single player's style is different n to copy/follow is very difficult ... thats why the Japs dont mind releasing their top TA videos out n until today no 1 can come near/beat their records ... most important thing is that u have to understand the fundamentals n find your own style n way to improved |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Jul 25 2010, 01:38 AM | ||
Yes u r right but at least I would try to compare and improve my tech by watching other player but sometime there some type of ppl who is hard headed (bodo sombong) Who think their tech is the correct way I felt sorry to their stupidity... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 26 2010, 03:32 PM |
| First page updated with my Myogi. The upload took an hour, and I dont think my college's bandwith can handle any more later on in the day when students are around and using the LAN. I grossly underestimated Myogi, FTR. |
| Posted by: bloodyredd Jul 26 2010, 03:59 PM |
| How do I grip? I only know how to drift. |
| Posted by: wtfpho86 Jul 26 2010, 04:24 PM |
| mmmm should this tread be sticky? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 26 2010, 05:43 PM | ||
You grip by slowing down and not giving it any gas when you corner. The car wont slide to the point of all out drift. Skid a little bit, maybe out of braking, but it's not gonna go sideways. |
| Posted by: aLphonsus Jul 28 2010, 06:52 PM |
| Hi Digibunny, thanks for the guide.. anyway, i'm new to this version.. i've recently FT my ap1 n i cant seem to break the 3,16.0xx barrier for akina.. the more i play, the more confused i get.. i'll try to conserve boost at the start n this will result in me not gasing fully for the 1st 2 checkpoints..which lead to sucky CPs.. does braking hard consume boost? the car seems to exit slow even though i followed your guide and glided through the corners.. n from my replays, i see ALOT of smoke coming out from my tyres,even though i'm already not fully gasing.. can you help me? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 28 2010, 08:11 PM | ||
Oh no no, you've got a misconception about conserving boost. Going full throttle on any CP is fine. It's the corners that decide where your boost gets shredded. Braking all in all, actually conserves boost. Heck; you can come to a complete stop in the middle of the run and you'd get this monster boost kick; but you'd still be slower overall. You need to moderate how you corner so that your boost is saved for places where it's strategically more valuable to have an acceleration punch. (i.e. You dont need to corner like you're being chased by a steamroller. But you have to gun it on a long straight section.) There shouldn't be any smoke coming from your tires at your level. Skid marks on the road, yes, but not white, tire squealing smoke. Since you're still above the 3'15 mark, you don't need to use ANY gas input when you corner whatsoever. Just brake, stay off the pedals, then accelerate once you completely clear the turn. That's not the fastest way, but it's better if you build up on that slowly so you can start experimenting with your own style. Starting right from the bottom lets you feel the difference. |
| Posted by: aLphonsus Jul 28 2010, 09:17 PM |
| Gosh i've been doing this wrongly all along T.T.. i'll try out ur advice and hopefully i'll report an improvement in timing.. thank you very much for your advice! as for the tire burning part, i swear there's really ALOT of white smoke coming out from the replays..could it be something to do with the car being FT? FT cars are hard to control.. |
| Posted by: *j*j* Jul 28 2010, 09:43 PM |
| @aLphonsus > i c u r fr Sing, i believed there r plenty of PRO n good ID players in Sing n they r almost every where ... is better to c them playing n TAing so u can have a better picture of how to play FT cars r much better to control coz they r balanced compared to unFT cars ... |
| Posted by: aLphonsus Jul 28 2010, 10:25 PM |
| ahha there are lots of pro players but at my lvl, i dont understand what they're doing.. i'll take a video of my gameplay soon n upload it so that the pros here can correct my mistakes:) i'll have to get used to FT cars i guess! |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jul 28 2010, 10:35 PM | ||
Really? I find a lesser tuned car doesn't snap to when I tell it to turn. It could also be a machine issue? Remember to drive with minimal sideways angle. If it is the machine, then that's not your fault. |
| Posted by: justxsongs Jul 28 2010, 10:47 PM |
| @aLphonsus where you play? |
| Posted by: aLphonsus Jul 28 2010, 10:53 PM |
| i play at jp.. but may be going cwp coz my friend is still tuning n timezome has the fri double deal so it's cheaper to tune there.. i tend to play in the aftnn when the crowd's less.. i'm going down to dg diz sat to see if i manage to catch some pros in action.. sorry OT alr!!! |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 1 2010, 07:17 PM | ||
| i'm currently editing a general guide for nagao... i personally feel that i'm not fast there (PB's are 3'17"4xx for dhd and 3'22"7xx for uhd), but i think i should be able to make a guide that would more or less make beginners better oriented with the map... ...and also will make a general guide for playing in the wet, as mentioned before... =======================
^ beginner's guide to Nagao my apologies for the shaky camera handling and the editing... XD |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 5 2010, 05:59 AM |
| UPDATE! Nagao and Tsukuba OB finally Shoved up there. They're probably out of date, but hey, it's a general guide, not a specific OMG I IZ TEH KING guide. |
| Posted by: Randy Aug 5 2010, 06:28 AM |
| You've no idea how long I've waited for this...thanks a bunch. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 5 2010, 07:21 AM |
| Actually, I'm pretty sure we can take an exact estimate as to when you were waiting for it if we know when you began wanting a video guide. >w> Speaking of guides, I finished the Intermediate Player's guide. You all know this stuff already, but they don't. I filled it with drivers that we can all LOL at. It helps to make my point. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 5 2010, 10:29 AM |
| when i have time this weekend, i'll start working on the wet weather guide... the funny thing is i originally planned on doing that first before the nagao guide; however, i suddenly had a change of heart... why? i still don't know why LOL... XD |
| Posted by: Akii Aug 5 2010, 11:08 PM |
| Finally a Nagao guide. Will try the advice given the next time when i can go ID5-ing. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 9 2010, 04:05 PM |
| Brian's wet guide posted. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 9 2010, 09:38 PM |
| thanks for letting every one know... and thanks as well for the assurance that the video has been processed... because when i was uploading it earlier during my lunch hour, i was a bit nervous since i kept on seeing the message "this video has not yet been processed"... since my break time was almost over, i just left it as is... :\ it's good to know the video's already up there... ^ ^ |
| Posted by: ishida Aug 14 2010, 05:04 PM |
| wow a wet guide, thanks guys! |
| Posted by: Dominator_RacerX7 Aug 15 2010, 04:38 AM |
| Can u make more video guide for other course (directions/weather) as well? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 15 2010, 04:54 AM |
| Unfortunately I am a specialist player, and there are some maps I never play or hate with a passion. (Wet/Uphill/Happo in general. Do not want.) So for the question if I could make other guides, that's a dead no. However I welcome everyone else who has reasonable knowledge to make their own guide. The more variety we have, the less important I am to this thread. |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Aug 15 2010, 08:36 AM | ||
For Akagi DH or UH, Happo OB or IB and Akina UH I n my friends could help to create it... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 16 2010, 12:34 AM | ||
Feel free to do so! In fact, I encourage you to go on and make the guides. This makes our community stand on even influences; It's not just one or the other flinging around information. I'd also like to add that if someone disagrees with what's written down in a guide, be vocal about it. The guides are meant to show the correct method of playing, and therefore they should be as error free as possible. |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Aug 16 2010, 12:46 AM | ||
Ok I will make it this weekends an upload it by Monday next week |
| Posted by: ishida Aug 19 2010, 12:40 AM |
| Why does wet terrain looks slower when playing? hope its not too bad for a question... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 21 2010, 07:16 AM |
| Because it ... is. The road's wet, so you cant really brake, accelerate, or turn with a whole lot of stability, so some force is going to be wasted any which way you put it. |
| Posted by: ChiyoV Aug 21 2010, 01:27 PM |
| Question about tuning: What is the preferred or best order of purchasing tuning parts? Or does it even matter? It wouldn't matter when you get to FT though. Example; engine first (7-0-0-0-0) powertrain first (0-7-0-0-0) suspension first (0-0-7-0-0) body first (0-0-0-7-0) ECU first (0-0-0-0-7) or evenly distributed (2-2-2-2-2) or supplemental (4-4-0-4-0) etc |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 21 2010, 07:15 PM |
| Not a whole lot of difference either way you do it, so long as you get to FT. If you insist on a method, you can do what feels like has the best balance to you, or you cn just go out and max out your car's strong points first. Whatever makes your cake deliciously frosty. |
| Posted by: ChiyoV Aug 21 2010, 09:35 PM |
| Yeah, unlike MT where you tune either power or handling at a time. I tend to favor power over handling on my 4WD cuz the car could manage turning better; and handling or body rather than power on my RWD for finesse. If that makes sense. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 21 2010, 11:21 PM |
| that's why i mentioned in my wet weather guide that you have to brake much earlier compared to when you're playing in the dry... in the rain, boost dies much quicker... even IRL driving, if you try to tackle a hairpin in the rain with the same speed as dry-weather driving, 99% of the time you'll end up either burning up your tires, slamming the outside wall, or worse spinning out of control... which reminds me of why F1 commentators always say that the extra rubber/grip laid down on the circuits simply disappears when it rains... about tuning, yeah as digi says, whatever you think works best for you... me personally, i prefer balancing it out (1-1-1-1-1, 2-2-2-2-2, etc.)... |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Aug 22 2010, 09:29 PM | ||
Here are the Nagao UHD video, sorry I could only edit the Nagao UHD 1st, I still have the Akina UHD, Akagi DHD and Happo IBD video but still need editing....
|
| Posted by: initiald34 Aug 23 2010, 12:05 AM |
| lol yes finally a video with driver view |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 23 2010, 11:17 AM | ||
^ Happogahara guide this might be the last video i do for awhile... ...unless someone suggests something brilliant... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 23 2010, 02:56 PM |
| Videos updated on the front page. I'd like a bit of input. Would you all prefer a 3rd person, or a 1st person perspective for the guides? |
| Posted by: Dominator_RacerX7 Aug 24 2010, 01:09 AM |
| I prefer 1st person view better for guides... |
| Posted by: initiald34 Aug 24 2010, 01:13 AM |
| first person to see what he is actually doing haha |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Aug 24 2010, 01:31 AM | ||||
Hi brian_infinispirit I have an idea how about you did a video which only explained how to maneuver into gutter in all IDAS5 map include Myogi map.... That would really help the beginners.... |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 24 2010, 10:45 AM |
| great suggestion but i'll have to be more confident myself with the gutters... which reminds me that even akina lake also has 'em... at the moment, i'm thinking of doing an akina lake guide... though i will definitely consider your idea of doing a gutter guide; i also think that will be very useful...  *searches around for an available cameraman* |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Aug 24 2010, 10:54 AM |
| A general gutter map sounds good. Then again, yeah, cameramen. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Aug 24 2010, 11:07 AM |
| unlike with the earlier videos wherein i only shoot one map, now i'll have to have multiple raw footages from various maps, just to be able to get my point across... and with that i'll really need a cameraman to capture the live version since the replay for this type of video may not fully explain my intentions... |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 27 2010, 01:59 PM |
| Hi, got pretty basic question. (still rookie player >_>) Occasionally, my gear somehow suddenly drop a gear and overevs after I suddenly shift to a new higher gear. I know it can be avoided, but I'm not sure of the specific factor that causes this to happen. Is it related to the timing of my shift (in relation to the rev meter) or how hard I'm pressing the accelerator pedal while shifting? Thanks. |
| Posted by: PandaApex Aug 27 2010, 04:27 PM | ||
It is most likely based on how you shift. If you bash the handle downwards, sometimes the stick CAN fly up and shift down on the rebound. I seen little kids do that and its not pretty. I actually never had this problem since I drive with one hand on the wheel and one hand on the stick at all times. Dunno, if its not the thing above then maybe its something faulty with your cab. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 28 2010, 04:22 PM |
| Hmmm........so there really is no game mechanics that describe what I said above? Interesting, I'd always assumed it was. I go play at two different arcades (V1 and V2 respectively). I notice that I almost never encounter this problem with the arcade with the V2 but I always do with the V1. I'd thought it was maybe my car or the way I play but I'd always thought it was part of the game. Now I know why I did not see this being mentioned anywhere on the forum, since its not part of the game. I guess now that I know, I can experiment to find out the cause since it happens quite often. It may be me somehow though. This info is useful, thanks. |
| Posted by: ChiyoV Sep 6 2010, 11:04 AM |
| What do you guys think is the fastest (and maybe cheapest) way to FT a car in D5? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 6 2010, 12:18 PM |
| Make force quit your best friend and start counting your internals? I dont know about cheaper, but that's definitely the fastest way I can think of. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Sep 6 2010, 10:53 PM |
| i doubt it if that'll work... because even if you keep on "winning" against your friend, if i'm not mistaken, no matter how many consecutive wins you rack up, it's still counted as just one play... unless you're playing in a location with a play-all-you-can option at a fixed price, you still need to spend two more credits, then eject as usual... ====================== anyways... i'm still not finished with the akina lake guide, kinda busy as of late to finish it... will try to finish it over the weekend, assuming we have another extended weekend... ...and i'm having doubts about doing the gutter guide, maybe someone else who's faster than me overall can do it... |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 9 2010, 09:03 AM |
| I noticed something. We recently had a small spike in the amount of players coming here to discuss IDAS. This is also reflected in the few jumps in views I'm seeing on the youtube videos. When I look at the demography, alot of it's in the U.S. and Southeast Asia, around Malaysia and Singapore. It makes me smile knowing I did something that made a difference in the lifespan of ID5. Maybe not for the Philippines in particular; no. But at least I've decoded the game for the newcomers enough for them to get curious. |
| Posted by: ChiyoV Sep 10 2010, 09:32 AM | ||
If that's the case, and if that IDW is the largest community of ID players, then where's the Japanese players' forums? Maybe we all can learn something from them. |
| Posted by: GIDO Sep 12 2010, 03:29 AM |
| Hey guys, is it brake before turn or brake at the last moment not before colliding with the wall and gradual turn? Is it always gradual? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 12 2010, 03:46 AM | ||
You'd never make it if you went all super late braking. Braking and a gradual turn in go hand in hand here. Brake reasonably early, and start turning while still on the brake. The exact moment itself will come from practice and experience. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 13 2010, 11:07 AM | ||
Yeah, I would be one of those I guess. Came here to learn about the technique and tips, though I started playing out of curiosity before that. Feels a bit like driving real car, in an arcadish not totally realistic but very fun sort of way. Question, what does upgrading exaust (2nd from left) and handling do? Also is it a good idea to downshift all the way to 1 while braking brake (instead of 2 while braking) in Akina's hairpins? I find that it really helps me slow down even more to 60, something that I have a hard time doing even when breaking early when doing the usual 2. I'm pretty sure there is some sort of disadvantage or sideffect (like shaving off more boost perhaps?) but I just wanted to know the general disadvantages if any. Its probably unsuitable for more advanced playing but I wanted to know about the technique itself and its merits/demerits. Oh......what determines how much boost is lost, is it speed or how much you turn in a corner; or both? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 13 2010, 11:14 AM | ||
1.) Intake and Exhaust alter your acceleration. 2.) Well; if you're capable of braking that much later by overreving 1st gear and then blipping back to 2nd when you exit, I don't see why not. Emphasis on if you're capable. 3.) Both. Corner fast, and you burn tires. Twist the wheel too much, and you still burn tires. The car will over turn and start fighting inertia and the tire traction. |
| Posted by: ishida Sep 14 2010, 12:56 AM |
| hold brakes, tap accelerate, enter corner, car slide, counter steer, wow drifting!...lol i just learn this method of drifting that day and it helped my T.A times... just have to practice more of this technique.... |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 14 2010, 01:51 AM |
| ^The word counter steer really reminds me of the D1GP game right besides the 2.0 Id5 in BTS, KL. That word appears alot. Thanks, I've always thought it was just pure speed. If handling matters than I guess I have to watch it by not handling it to much, probably explains why I see very little difference. Wow, this game is that realistic when it comes to tire management huh? Guess I should go fully upgrade my Treueno then. Going to take awhile since its in my Ver1.0 card. |
| Posted by: ishida Sep 14 2010, 02:14 AM |
haha ya i usually saw people play the D1GP game and when they pull the e-brake, it tells us to counter steer...lol never try the game before though  always saving money just for ID5  |
| Posted by: ChiyoV Sep 15 2010, 10:24 AM |
| Quickie question: what are the translations of the options menu in D5? (I want to turn the character voices off) |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 21 2010, 10:44 AM |
| Ah, I wanted to ask the same question though not because I wanted to turn the voice off. Any of the optiosn related to steering though? But other than that I just want to know cos they seem to be alot. I know one is for adjusting unlocked difficulty though. ------------ Also, can anybody explain to be the the difference stats of the Trueno's three Step 7 Engine tunes? I'm currently using Takami's one but since I'm playing EXP 1 where upgrades are hard to come by, I really want to know the other two before I modify it. If I want to at least. (playing Nagao suddenly became......weirder after installing it, though Akina is like alot more awesome) |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 21 2010, 02:54 PM |
| Yep. The one you can throw all the way to 10, assuming you haven't been a LoTS addict, is the steering. For everything else... Meh. I'd just refer to any previous V4 machine that's still running. I could see about doing that myself, but it's a bit of a hassle to go all the way over thar just to find the options menu. |
| Posted by: venth85 Sep 21 2010, 08:03 PM | ||
Made this video lastnite, maybe it can help
|
| Posted by: Phoenix_Cypher_K1 Sep 21 2010, 08:27 PM | ||
I believe there are no differences for any of the 3 Step 7s other than tacho change (racing engine only), engine sound change (racing engine), and BOV (for turbo). So pick the one you like the most. |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Sep 22 2010, 12:07 AM | ||
you really had to mention the "LOTS addict" part just to get my attention LOL... on the settings page, steering stiffness is the second to the last thing you can tinker around with.. first row: LOTS difficulty (0-10) -- goes higher by default whenever you clear an LOTS cycle second row: race music (MIN, NORMAL, MAX) third row: race voice (OFF, ON) fourth row: navigation map (OFF, ON) fifth row: steering stiffness (0-10) last row: force quit (NO, YES) |
| Posted by: GIDO Sep 22 2010, 03:58 AM |
| on EXP version, 3 plays per tuning right? |
| Posted by: Akii Sep 22 2010, 04:42 AM |
| Yeps. For version EXP, you play for 3 races per tuning. But for version EXP2.0, 1 race per tuning. I'm no LoTS addict. I'm a Bunta addict. Oh how i wish there was Bunta Challenge in IDAS5. |
| Posted by: D33DO_R32 Sep 22 2010, 05:11 AM | ||
I'm sorry for asking this stupid question but what's the "Race Voice" means?? the com. sound's voice like when we're battle againts characters frm legend of street mode?? |
| Posted by: sizzle Sep 22 2010, 02:27 PM |
| I find akina turns a bit harder to master, is there guide or maybe with a vid explanation for akina downhill? |
| Posted by: GIDO Sep 22 2010, 03:30 PM | ||
Ah ok. Thanks Akii. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 22 2010, 03:44 PM | ||
*Points towards First Page videos* |
| Posted by: sizzle Sep 22 2010, 04:20 PM |
| i need something more than the first page to help me drop my time below my current 3'10. The vid does not explain enough. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 22 2010, 04:29 PM |
| Oh, well in that case I can't help. I'm still struggling with that myself. Besides, 3'10 and below is hardly beginner's territory. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Sep 23 2010, 12:33 PM | ||||
-hmmm, what's force quit and how does it work? -Also, steering stifness? Does that mean how stable the steering is? lol Ive assumed it was steering "sensitivity".
So I take it the three of them are exactly the same in all stats then other than those non-performance affecting changes? Whats a BOV by the way? |
| Posted by: brian_infinispirit Sep 23 2010, 01:34 PM |
| by stiffness there i actually meant sensitivity... my bad... ^ ^" force quit is immediately ending your LOTS or TA run... you use force quit by pressing the start and view change buttons at the same time, the timer would immediately go to 0 and you will see "time is up" on the screen... some players use force quit as a way to quickly end their runs when they know they won't be able to win or beat their personal best time anyway... BOV = blow-off valve... the flames you see on your turbocharged car's muffler when you let go of the gas... and some of the turbocharged cars will even have a "psst"/"whoosh"-like sound when you release the gas... |
| Posted by: Akii Sep 27 2010, 05:14 AM |
| I wanna ask something here reagarding drifting. When you exit a corner, do you accelerate while countersteering, or countersteer with no acceleration and wait till the car is straight back and accelerate out? |
| Posted by: *j*j* Sep 27 2010, 04:48 PM | ||
when u started drifting > brake till d actual speed > countersteer > wait a milisecond > reacccel .... good luck |
| Posted by: kidosuka Sep 27 2010, 04:50 PM | ||
But I thought u not suppose to accelerate until you clear the corner but here you said reaccel and when do you actually do it, halfway through the turn? |
| Posted by: *j*j* Sep 27 2010, 07:01 PM | ||
when u started drifting u still hav to hold on to the brakes during the cornering while u countersteered > once u reached the correct braking speed (at every corners diff speed > eg, akina dhd 1st right corner the reaccel speed wil b at around 64kmh +/-) u can start to reaccel ... if u feel your car is under means that u r not braking enuf ... hmm may i ask do u know how to drift ??? |
| Posted by: justxsongs Sep 27 2010, 11:14 PM | ||
Yeah I agreed the way to drift. try to countersteer in fast motion. It's help to save your boost. Anyway I figure out how to take the last gutter of the Akina DHD without grinding the wall. I did some experiments and quite some results for mii. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Sep 27 2010, 11:40 PM |
| What would they be? The best I can do is line the car up with the middle and then time my wheel lock. |
| Posted by: justxsongs Sep 28 2010, 10:55 PM |
| Press the gas pedal until your wheel lock on the gutter den release the gas pedal. Fast motion. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 14 2010, 10:46 AM |
| What does upgrading ECU and body does to the stats specifically? |
| Posted by: Randy Oct 14 2010, 03:55 PM |
| ECU is like Electronic Computer Unit. While I know what it does, I can't really put it into words...sorry. xD As for the body, it's to improve stability and durability, as well as two stages of weight-reduction upgrade towards the car. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Oct 14 2010, 05:55 PM |
| The ECU is what controls the engine, and all the functions related to it, i.e. Boost for turbocharged engines, throttle modulation if you floor it so it doesn't bog, etcetera etcetera. However in the game, Electronics are supposed to lower your speed loss. Apparently. I really haven't noticed as we WANT speed loss. |
| Posted by: diu. Oct 28 2010, 09:13 PM |
| ok this might of been answered before but what's the difference between EXP and 2.0 time attack wise? |
| Posted by: Phoenix_Cypher_K1 Oct 28 2010, 09:27 PM |
| No difference between the two TA wise - thats why EXP 1.0 TAs are able to be brought forward to 2.0. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Oct 29 2010, 03:48 AM |
| One thing Im confused. How is it that drift style can still be quite fast when your drifting (and in a common example supposedly wear your tires more). Is there something Im missing here? Or it somehow avoids the loss of boost? Also, when's a good time to start countersteering? I'm just starting out on drifting and Im having a hard time figuring out the point of entry, timing of gas, steering angle and Im crashing into the wall quite a bit. |
| Posted by: Takahashi Rensuke Oct 29 2010, 05:44 AM | ||
In normal sense, drift does wear your tires more, but in the game, it saves your boost (don't know why) When you're drifting, you can step on the gas to the fullest, even to the point of revving.... so it's faster than grip style If you're drifting and you're really facing the corner, countersteer more, but not too much, practice makes perfect The point of entry is just the same when you're using grip style Step on the gas after you starts to drift If you can't countersteer well, reduce your drift angle Hope this helps =) A better way is to look at how people step on the pedals and steering when drifting |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Oct 29 2010, 06:45 AM | ||
To not crash, you'd want to start experimenting with slower than normal grip speeds first (About 3-4KPH should be reasonable) and playing with how you hit the gas. I've noticed that one quick pedal tap makes you slide faster than holding it down. Holding it down afterwards actually seems to stabilize you better than staying off the gas. Countersteer is best applied the minute you start to swing, in varying degrees. I personally have large arcs in controlling the RX8, so I basically yank back and forth when entering a corner drifting. Wait. This isn't a Beginner tech! |
| Posted by: ishida Oct 30 2010, 01:44 AM |
haha it become more advance than a beginner's guide  ....anyways the best way to drift is when entering a corner as usual, hold the brakes, when doing that, tap the gas while pushing the steering wheel a bit to the side you're going, when the car over-steers, counter-steer....hope this helps... |
| Posted by: Takahashi Rensuke Oct 30 2010, 03:57 PM | ||
lol ishida's explaination is much better and simpler than mine yup, overall is just like that |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 4 2010, 12:06 PM |
| Thanks I guess, been working on it a bit. Just one problem though, what is exactly the benefits of drifting? It slows you down of course, which is always a good thing but shouldn't your tires wear out even more if you drift as opposed to just gripping? (at least........in real life it would) Then again, in real life there's no such thing as sudden massive boosts of acceleration after exiting a corner either. I usually touch the wall at some point though, need to work on the line a bit. Also, what should I do after the tap in? Should I brake more or accelerate. I seem to have gotten a habbit of doing brake-tap-brake-press gas recently. I'm not sure how much boost it's cutting me though because of the last part. Nagao DH Dry personal best only 3:23:047 aprox in a FT Evo III. Average is proximately 25-26. Dunno how to get closer to the people who have 21 or lower frankly........  (I swear I saw a 3:05 in Pyramid once IIRC, is that even possible?), there are some points in the course where drifting is very useful and I think that's the part that needs improving. My Irozaka fails however relative to most of the people I see. Guess I need to play more of that to improve that course and drifting there.========== Again off topic. I dunno why, but I think I'm feeling a bit unsatisfied with my AE86 Trueno's racing engine (takami pic right?). It feels a bit different from previously before the engine got to step 7, though it's obviously quite powerful. I wonder if I made the wrong choice? I've never tried the other two Step 7s before so I cannot make a personal comparison. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Nov 4 2010, 05:55 PM | ||
Yeah. I have no idea myself as to why it works this way; however as it turns out the earlier you accelerate, the bigger of a shave off you get in your times. Thus... Plus I'm pretty sure that in Akina's S curves, no car could floor it or half floor it through those at speeds in excess of 120KPH; gutter or not. So I'm pretty sure logic flies out the window here when we talk about tire boost. Remember the reason why you tapped the gas to make the car slide. You want to go faster. Thus, get on the gas and ride that slide through. If memory serves, my RX8 managed to score a good 3'19'xxx at FT. Nagao's just a course wherein you have to look at which sections you can push, which you can't, watch your speeds, and use the gutters without falling in. Iro's really a female dog when it comes to consistency, so that's just something you have to study by taking videos of yourself and making your exit speeds DEAD on every time. == Hoo boy! Another Engine mod question. Your step 7 engine is a step 7 engine, no more, no less. Regardless of how high it revs, it's going to perform the same as the other two that are ( or were, in your case ) available. It's all in your head, mah boy. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Nov 4 2010, 08:23 PM |
| Maybe I'll make another Trueno. I've just gotto satisfy my strange curiousity on this topic. The way I learned about the boost system in this game was to try it out as well. It just doesn't make any sense before it was burned into your brain through experience. I have this strange habit of trying to tune cars now, when I should be should more practice TA runs to imrpove my time. But Exp 2.0 does that to you. Maybe Ishida can help me out, I think his Trueno uses one of the other Step 7 Engine tunes IIRC. |
| Posted by: Bumpercam Nov 8 2010, 05:46 PM |
| A little beginner's choice question. I've been cycling Akagi, Iroha, and Akina for TAs in an effort to familiarize myself to the game. After that three course... Where to? Nagao? Happo? Or I shouldn't bother until I can break 3:20 in Akina? |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Nov 8 2010, 06:07 PM | ||
Better practice 1 by 1. Make sure you really know the course 1st and have improve you time to move to another course, that my way... How about others opinion??? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Nov 8 2010, 07:40 PM | ||
If you break Akina at 3'20, then it's definitely a good sign that you're getting the physics of the game. However it's by no means necessary to do so. Nagao and Happo are totally different courses with starkly contrasting headache areas, so any training you would do on one course would ultimately only give you a small general heads up on other courses. I'd say run around everywhere a bit, just so you know which areas are probably bound to screw you over when you run into them. Then practice your manipulation of the physics at a course you're comfortable with. ---- I ran around a bit with Takumi in Nagao. That was rather interesting; I had no idea he actually falls into a gutter halfway through the course. |
| Posted by: *VIC* Nov 8 2010, 07:50 PM | ||
Is the gutter after the 1st long gutter? Because in the past when I battled him, he just became very slow after a corner with the gutter that is not suppose to be used... |
| Posted by: tkrd48 Nov 8 2010, 07:53 PM | ||
I think in the manga, he actually use the gutter, I can enter the gutter but I think will lose boost by doing so cause you have to push the speed to clear that gutter |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Nov 8 2010, 08:23 PM |
| It was kinda like the battle with the Cappucino; he misjudged his entry and ended up sparking metal. Not that I saw any sparks. |
| Posted by: Takahashi Rensuke Nov 8 2010, 11:42 PM | ||
If I were you, I run a few rounds of all the courses, breaking some records, then choose the favourite course and focus on it |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Nov 13 2010, 05:35 AM |
| Updated the first page with LOUIS' vid. DAMN that's inspiring. |
| Posted by: SonicSP Dec 3 2010, 02:36 AM |
| I was wondering, does the rate of deceleration when entering a corner actually affect the rate of acceleration I get after I exit it? For example, if I were to decelerate 100 kmh in 3 seconds as I enter a corner, would I gain more acceleration than if I were to decelerate 100 kmh in 5 seconds? (assuming plenty of boost left in both scenario) |
| Posted by: Takahashi Rensuke Dec 3 2010, 06:27 AM | ||
yes it will affect it braking more means saving more boost although you shouldn't brake too much and the boost isn't very obvious... Braking is the most powerful weapon in downhill - Todo Juku |
| Posted by: •keL• Jan 2 2011, 10:24 PM |
| to put it simple, the main point of going slow in corners is to prevent burning of tyre's friction for the later part of the game. let me give you an example, i give you 2 pairs of sneakers, 1 that is totally new with friction at the bottom untouched, 1 that has no friction left below. if you are asked to run in the wet on a slippery floor without falling within a given time, think about it, would the sneakers with friction be better, or the one with frictions totally weared out? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jan 16 2011, 02:47 AM |
| In other words, Sonic, you were asking whether braking later would give you more acceleration coming out? I don't think that WOULD be the case. I mean as long as you clear the thresholds for saving boost, you'd be getting a faster time because you came in faster, not because of an acceleration bonus of any sort. Piling up on what Rensuke mentioned; we really can't measure the boost; so if it feels like you have boost after you do it, then... by all means. |
| Posted by: Bumpercam Jan 25 2011, 01:44 PM |
| I've always been stuck in mediocre lap times, and only recently have i been able to get a real shot of gunning for the fastest TA times in Irohazaka DH. Problem is, i always seem to be too fast at the first checkpoint (up to 4 seconds). I've tried adding more braking to the early hairpins, but i still seem to be too fast. Which leads me to the question... How can i conserve boost? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jan 26 2011, 02:55 AM | ||
You go really_really_slow compared to what you usually run for the first 3 checkpoints, then you amp it up slightly for the last. In Iro, 46 is considered too fast for the first few CP's. 42 is more like it; and it has to be very consistent. Then there's also your lining. While it may not be obvious because of the speeds, chances are you're being mentally tricked into thinking you're right when in fact, you're off. Watch some of the early grip videos to get an idea of what that's like. |
| Posted by: Bumpercam Jan 28 2011, 06:41 AM | ||
I tried that tonight... starting with the pacing, first (i think lining is way over my head ATM). However, only when i cap my gear at 3 (not shifting higher... i get 45s if i cap at 4), i hit 47s. Is that the right pace? I'm using my FT'd NA6CE btw. |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Jan 28 2011, 09:07 PM | ||
There's no need to cap your shifting. If I'm hearing you correctly, you don't shift higher than 3rd? Even on the first part? By pace I mean your exit and entry speeds, not the CP times themselves. You can ignore those so long as you're cornering at consistently low speeds until you reach CP 4. For a point of reference, the fastest I ever ran with my RX8 was: CP1: '45'331 CP2: '52'879 CP3: '47'545 CP4: '41'707 TOTAL: 3'07'462 With CP1's two corners being taken at ridiculously low 3x speeds. CP2 is the main hassle, since there's so many corners that will trip you up the moment you slip up on just ONE. |
| Posted by: Bumpercam Jan 29 2011, 09:11 PM |
| Yesterday, i thought i get what you meant by pacing. I braked WAAAY earlier than i used to be in Akagi, and it kind of worked since it shaves about 3 seconds off my Akagi UH... but then again i also took it easy with that CP1 and took the high-speed chicanes in lower speed than usual... |
| Posted by: SonicSP Feb 4 2011, 07:07 PM | ||
I really wish I can spend more time practicing all these concepts, reading about them is one thing but sometimes you gotta try it yourself. Unfortunately, I can no longer play this game although it's still in my mind a lot of the times. The only courses I try to imprve my times seriously was Nagao and Akina, and even then I was like behind 8 seconds and 10 seconds with a lot of the best times respectively, so a long way to go even then. I was glad I was able to improve another one second on Nagao on my last play-session though, felt good. (that was like more than a month ago) |
| Posted by: xxk49xx Mar 3 2011, 02:23 AM |
| Hi i need some help on Akina UH, i have gc8 FT but always get timings 3:20++ =( |
| Posted by: Randy Mar 3 2011, 02:30 AM |
Umm...shouldn't this question be in the Subaru Thread or something like "Beginner Guide" Thread?  |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Mar 3 2011, 02:35 AM |
| That it should. *Merging* Come to think of it, nobody made an Akina Uphill Vid as far as I can remember. |
| Posted by: Randy Mar 3 2011, 05:58 AM |
| @DigiBunny Hmm, by any chances do you have much experience on Akina UH? I believe you might have a better record than I do, considering my personal best was only around 3'18'xxx or something.  |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Mar 3 2011, 06:05 AM |
| I wouldn't count on it. My runs on Uphill were limited to Story mode and random battle choices; and even if I did, I don't think I'd be a reliable source of information regarding specific tracks anymore. Rust does that to a guy. |
| Posted by: xxk49xx Mar 4 2011, 07:45 AM |
| Actually some tips will do =( 3:18 is hard also -.- |
| Posted by: •keL• Mar 4 2011, 07:53 AM |
| K49, that time you are the one that were with a group of friends, right? |
| Posted by: xxk49xx Mar 4 2011, 09:41 AM |
| Haha yeap~i always go there but dont dare ask u and Jo teach =p |
| Posted by: •keL• Mar 4 2011, 05:37 PM |
| LOL, go ahead and ask, we won't bite, hahah (^ Д^) |
| Posted by: *VIC* Mar 5 2011, 02:06 AM | ||
You can watch my latest video if you want to. It's 3'11"818 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBI8ptBfzdU |
| Posted by: xxk49xx Mar 5 2011, 06:21 AM |
| Nice vid,how to drift like tht ? im still doing grip drift |
| Posted by: •keL• Mar 5 2011, 09:14 AM | ||
more practice makes perfect, that's all i can say correct me if im wrong, but grip is grip, drift is drift, no such thing as grip drift, LOL i don't know how much you have improved since then, but you should practise on late-braking technique first, get a decent timing of 3'17"xxx with that technique before learning drift |
| Posted by: xxk49xx Mar 6 2011, 07:50 AM |
| LOL type wrong..How to do late braking at akina uh o.o |
| Posted by: •keL• Mar 7 2011, 12:03 AM |
| the technique can be applied to any of the maps, but the only difference is that in early braking, you get to control your car and your tyre easier and better, while in late braking, you will be entering the first 1/5 of that corner at a higher speed than usual, but it still ensures tyre are managed, just that car will be a bit shaky at the start of the corner, overall, late braking waste little to no time at all, rather than early braking |
| Posted by: xxk49xx Mar 7 2011, 09:15 AM |
| Oh icic thanks! gonna try tmr =D |
| Posted by: •keL• Mar 8 2011, 05:28 AM | ||
maybe you can try this; the first match you play, try braking as early as possible, so that you can have the best and stable grip at the corners, then with each consecutive matches you play, slowly brake later, and later, and later, you will probably find the ideal time to start braking if you do that, remember, just be flexible in your runs |
| Posted by: Subbz Mar 8 2011, 09:54 PM |
| I was wondering, how do you do the gutter run correctly? How do you approach the gutter and what do you do once you get the tires in? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Mar 10 2011, 02:53 AM |
| There's more than one kind of gutter. Akina's are just sections where the car feels like it's more responsive and there's a slight resistance to get out of the gutter. As long as your tires go in and you're not banging the sidewall, you're doing it right. Tsukuba's grippy gutters need you to just slip your tire(s) in at normal cornering speeds. The shortcut gutters need to have a speed of 85+ or so, or else you fall in. Treat Nagao like Tsukuba's shortcuts. |
| Posted by: jon360x Mar 10 2011, 09:43 AM |
| nice guide... I'm not a beginner anymore so, let me put some questions here. I've learned the grip style racing... actually its the only easy and safe way to drive in IDAS5 IMO. so how do we do drift then??? I tried a few times but my Drift line is out... and I spin my rear end of my 86 too much... so I've been researching on how to drift for about 3 weeks now.. I've also watched how N-Dreamroad-S (an IDAS5 Japanese racing team lol.) drift... and they are really good... here is an example video of one of the top 10 Akina DH drivers for IDAS5 in the world drive.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOtOzeAcMI4&feature=channel_video_title Observe how he drift... I've never been able to do that yet... |
| Posted by: Subbz Mar 10 2011, 11:06 AM | ||
Thanks for the response. But I need a little more detail. For akina I need to know if you need to go full throttle once you hook the tires in and would you need to countersteer as well? For nagao, since the gutters are deep and can't really be hooked into what's the best way to use it as a shortcut? |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Mar 10 2011, 03:45 PM | ||
Once you hook the tires, you can just floor it like normal; except on hairpins. No countersteer, no nothing. I mean it's there to increase traction anyway. As for Nagao; speed and lining are your best friends. Just don't fall under the preset speed while over the gutters. I'm no longer sure what that speed is anymore though. @jon Tap the gas and countersteer hard to slide, brake into the corner to correct your speed, then accelerae out. Youtube has a specific guide uploaded. |
| Posted by: •keL• Mar 10 2011, 09:01 PM | ||
if im not wrong for Nagao and Tsukuba gutters, you cannot fall below 84kmph, that's the borderline for getting into the gutters |
| Posted by: jon360x Mar 11 2011, 11:07 AM | ||
Link for the specific guide uploaded??? |
| Posted by: Subbz Mar 12 2011, 12:33 PM |
| Thanks for the tips. I also noticed that my tire wear gets really bad towards the end of naval uh. After a couple of tries I was able to figure out how to conserve my tires. Man I'm really liking what they did to this game. It's a lot more realistic compared to 3 . |
| Posted by: JuicyDragon Mar 20 2011, 08:46 AM |
| one simple question, i've been playing ID for quite some time. but i only recently started looking at forums and so.. WHAT is "boost"?! |
| Posted by: DigiBunny Mar 23 2011, 06:57 AM |
| Please look at the front page video for total beginners to see what boost is. *mumbles something about the value of reading* |
| Posted by: wangzp Jul 5 2011, 06:26 PM |
| THE pic don't show up` |
| Posted by: imprezagc8 Aug 5 2012, 04:12 PM |
| this may seem like a stupid question but how do you change your avatar? i just started playing maybe a month ago and i have never got to change it. |
| Posted by: Newneo5879 Aug 11 2012, 08:07 PM | ||
 I think this is not a stupid question.. i'm facing with this puzzle when i start play IDAS5 a year later. Actually we can't change any avatar or Level if your arcade machine in level 1.1. Or if your arcade machine not in online . So forget it to change you avatar or increase you level. |
| Posted by: imprezagc8 Aug 13 2012, 02:34 AM |
| so only 1.2 you change your avatar? |
| Posted by: SonicSP Aug 15 2012, 09:30 AM |
| As far as I know, the version that allows you to change your avatar offline is with version JPN 2.0 or EXP 2.0. I think anything less requires you to play online for that to happen. Tuning in version 2.0 is also ALOT faster and cheaper. When IDAS5 was dominant in my place, they were only around 2 arcades that has EXP 2.0 machines. The rest stuck with 1.0, I guess it was too expensive to buy a new one. Fortunately updating IDAS6 versions is a lot easier. |