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Post everything about Initial D Arcade Stage 6 AA and 7 AAX here. If you want to talk about ver.1 and ver.2, please post them in the ver.1 - 2 section. For anything about ver.3, please post them in the version 3 section. For anything about ver.4, please post them in the version 4 section. For anything about ver.5, please post them in the version 5 section. Participating in flame wars will be severely punished. NO plagiarism in any case. If you are posting information (i.e. - shift points) that did not originate from this forums, by all means, give the author / source proper credit. Violator will be given a verbal warning on first offence and an actual warning thereafter.


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> Teknoparrot now supports ID4 through IDZ
LeGeNd-1
Posted: Apr 24 2018, 04:13 AM


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Thanks for the warm welcome smile.gif Sorry for the late reply, life hasn't been cooperating for the past week lol.

QUOTE

There is supposedly an FFB update for D7, but I’ve been out of the loop for the last one or two months so I haven’t tried it or know how well it works. My computer had to be reformatted lately so I’ve haven’t been playing for awhile.


Apparently so. I just dl'd the latest ver of public TP (V1.43) and it has extra FFB settings in the launcher. Haven't tried it with my wheel yet though. From memory however I don't recall any ID/MT games to have that strong FFB even in arcades. The "feeling" of FFB is mainly from the weight of the wheel itself.

QUOTE

D7 requires you to participate in online battles to get pass B1. There is a gold bar beside the blue bar that you can only fill with online battles.


Ah gotcha. I assume that's where you can unlock more character customization options as well? Also, on the main screen if you press View Select it expands to show objectives (Win x Races, Beat x TA Gold, etc) and at the end of those boxes it says "Rewards". Do you know what these rewards are? If it's not car visual/performance related I don't care lol.

QUOTE
The general tip I can give you is to turn the wheel first when heading into a corner, then do a quick BC (add another extra C if you feel like it), then countersteer if/as needed based on the corner.

Brakes should be strictly used as drift initiators in D7. Generally speaking, the shorter you press it the better. In fact, some players recommend no more than half the meter when doing the BC. If the corner is too light, try to get pass it by using accel control, which means just tapping the accel a few times to help push the car in a turn.

If you really feel like you need to slow down for a super sharp corner, downshift and use engine braking (and yeah, all my sim and real life driving instincts scream at me everytime I do that in IDAS too). It slows you down less than using the actual brakes, which is really strong in D7 even compared to other IDAS games.


Brake cancel is when you quickly let off the gas, tap the brake, and quickly get back on the gas right? It's hit and miss whether it initiates a drift. For some really tight corners I have to do this twice (that's what you guys call double BC I think). It's very frustrating to know which corners you have to BC, double BC or can survive just by letting off the gas. Guess it just comes from practice and experience.

Also, if a tight hairpin comes after a long straight, generally I can get the timing right. But if it's after a short straight where you haven't built up enough speed, I find BC kills your speed AND it doesn't initiate a drift. Very prevalent problem in sector 2/4 of Nagao DH, sector 4 Tsubaki DH and most of Iroha. What technique do you use for these slow speed repeating turns? Just letting off the gas doesn't give me enough turning radius.

I play using AT (n00b, I know). Unlike Maxi Tune, I find it hard to hear the engine rev rise and drop in ID. It's difficult enough keeping up with all the corners without thinking of gears as well. In Maxi Tune you can generally get away with using AT and set reasonable times, but I guess MT is a must in ID because the brakes kill your speed so much. When coming up to a hairpin for example, do you shift down then BC, or the other way round?

Also, is there ever any situation where you keep on the gas, and just tap the brakes a few times to go round corners? I haven't found it to be very effective.

QUOTE
Yes, you can get them. I believe there is some extra stuff you can download from somewhere to get Ver 1.2. It’s not a new dump I think, more like a separate file you have to put in another folder in Teknoparrot I recall. Your current dump should still be okay.

There is a way to access those courses even without that though. There is a modified exe you can get that will allow you to access them with your current setup on Ver 1.0, and yes with full correct arcade accurate physics too.


I just checked my game files and sure enough the course data is there. I also got a small 4KB file with my download (SBYD_e2prom.bin) which the readme says to put in TP folder. Is this it? It's still not showing those courses in my game.

EDIT: Just did some more detective work. You have to put the bin file in C:\Users\*YourName*\AppData\Roaming\TeknoParrot instead of the root TP folder. The creator of the readme is a dumbass. Hope this helps anyone else facing the same issue.

EDIT2: Tsuchisaka snow is blinding lol. Also Tsukuba snow is at night oddly (the other 2 snow tracks are only playable in the day).

Is there a way to play TA in the rain? I swear I saw the option a few days ago. And do you know if Gold is the highest rank, or is there Platinum?

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on Apr 24 2018, 04:56 AM
(Sean)Lau Yu Xuan
Posted: Apr 24 2018, 07:04 AM


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Is this actually true?
https://youtu.be/Wa8Ai5FQ-WU

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SonicSP
Posted: Apr 24 2018, 07:06 AM


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^Yes, Teknoparrot supports D8 but only Patreon for now. Eventually it would be out for public of course. Saw it on my email and went and redownloaded TP on my PC. Hehehehe laugh2.gif

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
From memory however I don't recall any ID/MT games to have that strong FFB even in arcades. The "feeling" of FFB is mainly from the weight of the wheel itself.


Perhaps it was just your individual arcade where the FFB wasn’t working well but in general this I can say say is incorrect. FFB is a huge deal for IDAS and MT as one with one not working correctly can have huge detrimental effect on the game.

I remember having to have different steering settings for each individual machine because their FFB motor was at different stages for D8 and some previous IDAS going back to D5 where I started. There were machines I avoided completely because their FFB was completely messing things up. There’s a lot of small and subtle things from the FFB. Each course in fact, had their own different FFB settings (outside of even the ones you can set), and I knew this because there were some damaged machines where the FFB made some courses playable close to normal while others were not.

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
Also, is there ever any situation where you keep on the gas, and just tap the brakes a few times to go round corners? I haven't found it to be very effective.


Unlike sim games, braking while the gas is on does almost nothing in D7. So it would be very similar to just having the gas on.

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
In Maxi Tune you can generally get away with using AT and set reasonable times, but I guess MT is a must in ID because the brakes kill your speed so much. When coming up to a hairpin for example, do you shift down then BC, or the other way round?


Depends on the corner. Ideally you want to brake and then downshift during the corner but if the corner is super tight you can downshift first to get some extra braking power in.

Also, what you are saying about ID applies to this game specifically. IDAS physics vary widely game by game.

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
Tsuchisaka snow is blinding lol. Also Tsukuba snow is at night oddly (the other 2 snow tracks are only playable in the day).


I guess it’s just done as a change of pace after two snow day courses.

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
Ah gotcha. I assume that's where you can unlock more character customization options as well? Also, on the main screen if you press View Select it expands to show objectives (Win x Races, Beat x TA Gold, etc) and at the end of those boxes it says "Rewards". Do you know what these rewards are? If it's not car visual/performance related I don't care lol.


You can basically ignore those, it’s not car visual or performance related. Some of those required online which we can’t complete because we don’t have the official online access

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
Ah gotcha. I assume that's where you can unlock more character customization options as well?


In D7 you get avatar parts by playing In-Store battles which you can do with Teknoparrot Online. The game thinks you’re playing between machines in an arcade but it’s going over online. Not the same as real online though but it would do.

Alternatively you can just hex edit your card, which some of us do. That has a steep learning curve though but useful once you know it.

QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
Also, if a tight hairpin comes after a long straight, generally I can get the timing right. But if it's after a short straight where you haven't built up enough speed, I find BC kills your speed AND it doesn't initiate a drift. Very prevalent problem in sector 2/4 of Nagao DH, sector 4 Tsubaki DH and most of Iroha. What technique do you use for these slow speed repeating turns? Just letting off the gas doesn't give me enough turning radius.


Hmm I think I usually just let go the gas in those instances but it’s also bout lining and timing. I’m not so sure since I’m a bit rusty and haven’t played the game in months. I got a couple of my personal videos here of two of the courses you mentioned, one I just found in my archives and uploaded. They’re not the fastest videos around but they might decent for a guide and they have steering overlay in addition to the i game Accel and Brake meters. One is wheel and one is gamepad.

YOUTUBE ( https://youtu.be/PN00S9ys0Mw )


YOUTUBE ( https://youtu.be/5T3Xq4k1ll8 )


QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 1 hour, 28 minutes ago)
Is there a way to play TA in the rain? I swear I saw the option a few days ago. And do you know if Gold is the highest rank, or is there Platinum?


Nah, they took out the feature in D7 unfortunately, you can only TA in Dry now. You can still play races in the rain though.

As for the ranks they are:
Bronze
Silver
Gold
Platinum
Specialist

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 24 2018, 10:03 AM
jon360x
Posted: Apr 24 2018, 11:37 AM


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post removed

This post has been edited by jon360x on Apr 24 2018, 08:33 PM
LeGeNd-1
Posted: Apr 24 2018, 05:30 PM


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QUOTE
^Yes, Teknoparrot supports D8 but only Patreon for now. Eventually it would be out for public of course. Saw it on my email and went and redownloaded TP on my PC.  Hehehehe laugh2.gif


Woo, I saw the announcement on their patreon page as well. I was under the impression that they weren't going to support it for a while due to fear of copyright strikes - guess now that the server is offline and arcades have fully migrated to Zero it's safe.

In general, is D8 physics similar to D7 or is it more drifty like D6?

Personally, I'm really interested in trying out D5 physics. From what I heard it's the most sim like and it has tyre wear mechanics! How cool is that? Shame it can't be emulated yet.

Also found it odd that they keep switching up physics after every iteration of the game - as opposed to Maxi Tune where it's been constant. I know it's for challenge, but none of them have been faitful to the source material so far lol.

QUOTE

Perhaps it was just your individual arcade where the FFB wasn’t working well but in general this I can say say is incorrect. FFB is a huge deal for IDAS and MT as one with one not working correctly can have huge detrimental effect on the game.

I remember having to have different steering settings for each individual machine because their FFB motor was at different stages for D8 and some previous IDAS going back to D5 where I started. There were machines I avoided completely because their FFB was completely messing things up. There’s a lot of small and subtle things from the FFB. Each course in fact, had their own different FFB settings (outside of even the ones you can set), and I knew this because there were some damaged machines where the FFB made some courses playable close to normal while others were not.


Hmm...most likely. People tend to play really rough around here. Then again I'm used to simulation FFB in Gran Turismo, Assetto Corsa etc where it's much heavier and much more detailed than anything arcade games would probably have. No biggie really, with the amount of steering movements you need in ID you probably don't want high FFB anyway!

QUOTE

Unlike sim games, braking while the gas is on does almost nothing in D7. So it would be very similar to just having the gas on.

Depends on the corner. Ideally you want to brake and then downshift during the corner but if the corner is super tight you can downshift first to get some extra braking power in.

Also, what you are saying about ID applies to this game specifically. IDAS physics vary widely game by game.


Yeah thought so about gas/brake concurrently. Just experimenting with a few different styles.

I find it super annoying that the physics change drastically even between parts now that I'm Stage 5. It takes longer and longer to accumulate points to tune, and by the time you get used to the physics and upgrade, it changes again. Kinda renders all your practice time useless before you get to Full Spec. I remember back in IDES/IDAS4 tuning was incremental and despite the sucky base physics, stock vs Full Spec generally shares the same techniques.

QUOTE
In D7 you get avatar parts by playing In-Store battles which you can do with Teknoparrot Online. The game thinks you’re playing between machines in an arcade but it’s going over online. Not the same as real online though but it would do.

Alternatively you can just hex edit your card, which some of us do. That has a steep learning curve though but useful once you know it.


I see. Don't really care much for avatar, but I would love to edit so I have infinite points for perf/visual tuning. I like to try out different cars but it takes ages to Full Spec...

Someone made an easy to use GUI to edit WMMT5 cards - I hope someone talented can also do one for ID.

QUOTE

Hmm I think I usually just let go the gas in those instances but it’s also bout lining and timing. I’m not so sure since I’m a bit rusty and haven’t played the game in months. I got a couple of my personal videos here of two of the courses you mentioned, one I just found in my archives and uploaded. They’re not the fastest videos around but they might decent for a guide and they have steering overlay in addition to the i game Accel and Brake meters. One is wheel and one is gamepad.


Great driving mate. I'm not aiming to be world beater or anything (I'm way past my golden days for that haha), but I would like to at least drive a full course at decent speed cleanly. The steering indicator really helps. I think I just need to bite the bullet and start practicing with MT really. Bloody annoying that we also have to PAY to change our transmission though facepalm.gif

Do you know what the steering rotation is for D7? I've read numbers like 450 or 540 being thrown around but nothing concrete. MT is 270 I think.

QUOTE
Nah, they took out the feature in D7 unfortunately, you can only TA in Dry now. You can still play races in the rain though.

As for the ranks they are:
Bronze
Silver
Gold
Platinum
Specialist


Yeah I realised it was one of the preliminary Bunta Legend races where you can still select the course/time/weather. Not in TA. I don't feel like rain affects handling all that much anyway, it just looks cooler.

I'm at a level where I can comfortably get Gold now. Once I Full Spec and practice some more maybe Platinum is reachable? Annoying how there isn't a target laptime shown though.
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 25 2018, 12:37 AM


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QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 5 hours, 27 minutes ago)
In general, is D8 physics similar to D7 or is it more drifty like D6?


It’s kind of hard to describe, it’s more drifty than D7 but still fairly grip based and not like D6 at all.

The footwork is vastly different though. On a wheel setup, D7 primarily is a right footed game where your left foot just stays passive for occasional drifts while your right foot controls your lining. D8 by contrast is mostly a two footed game where you’ll be using the brake pedal a lot more. Mostly for drift techniques but it can also be used for braking at some points as well since it’s weaker than D7.

Back in the arcade it took some time to get used to D8 because my left foot is used to not doing much in the previous D7 game. It requires some change in muscle memory and habits.

QUOTE
Personally, I'm really interested in trying out D5 physics. From what I heard it's the most sim like and it has tyre wear mechanics! How cool is that? Shame it can't be emulated yet.


Yes D5 is the closest to a sim racer. It’s also a fairly unique racing game in general.

QUOTE
Also found it odd that they keep switching up physics after every iteration of the game - as opposed to Maxi Tune where it's been constant. I know it's for challenge, but none of them have been faitful to the source material so far lol.


Yes that started with D4 onwards.

Personally that’s one of the big pluses of the IDAS series in my book. It’s fun having to explore a new concept because the games tend to be fairly different even if most of the courses are the same. And the games are very different enough that each becomes its own unique experience on their own.

When a new IDAS game comes out, it’s not new content like courses that necessarily attracts you but to see how your familiar courses have all changed. The way one tackles a course in different games are all different. You look up all the new Japanese Youtube videos to see what’s different, theorizes what changed and what’s not. What still works and what doesn’t. It’s like coming to a new renovating theme park.

Sure it can get tiresome since you have to put effort but the process of learning itself is part of the fun.

It’s one of the reasons why most IDAS games are worth revisiting because each of them bring something unique to the table. It’s not as if each game is just an updated improvement over the other with minor changes. D5 have weird slowdown boost saving controls, D6 is about drifting as wide to get direct horsepower boosts, D7 is about minimal Braking and Accel control while D8 is about Brake and Accel spamming, etc.

QUOTE
No biggie really, with the amount of steering movements you need in ID you probably don't want high FFB anyway!


Depends on the player, personally I tend to use a high setting in the arcades because I need to feel the lining. The consequence of that though is that I suffered nerve damage in my fingers during the D6 days. You can look up at some of my older posts on the D6 threads and see me complaining about it and asking whether it’s a normal thing lol.

Nothing permanent......I think but at the time it made my real life driving difficult when your finger nerves aren’t working properly since they tend to let go of stuff easily. It was also sucky because I had to limit my playing just to not aggravate the injury worse. Fortunately I never had the issue for D7 and D8 probabaly since they don’t require quick wheel jerks like D6.

QUOTE
I find it super annoying that the physics change drastically even between parts now that I'm Stage 5. It takes longer and longer to accumulate points to tune, and by the time you get used to the physics and upgrade, it changes again. Kinda renders all your practice time useless before you get to Full Spec. I remember back in IDES/IDAS4 tuning was incremental and despite the sucky base physics, stock vs Full Spec generally shares the same techniques.


It is annoying but partly it is to ease of newer players into the game. That said in general I agree with you. This only started in D7 and beyond I think.

QUOTE
The steering indicator really helps. I think I just need to bite the bullet and start practicing with MT really. Bloody annoying that we also have to PAY to change our transmission though facepalm.gif


It’s not an issue in the long run as the cost is negligible. Even early it’s still fairly cheap since most people preplan what they use and don’t change much. It’s mostly there to incentivize you to commit to one (even if it’s a weak commitment due to the price being low) as posed to changing it all the time.

Later on in the game, your problem will be you have so many points that you can’t do anything with lol.

QUOTE
Someone made an easy to use GUI to edit WMMT5 cards - I hope someone talented can also do one for ID.


It’s already been done for the old card types I believe on earlier versions of Teknoparrot for D6. Not sure about the new ones.

QUOTE
Do you know what the steering rotation is for D7? I've read numbers like 450 or 540 being thrown around but nothing concrete. MT is 270 I think.


Arcades have it at 540.

QUOTE
I'm at a level where I can comfortably get Gold now. Once I Full Spec and practice some more maybe Platinum is reachable? Annoying how there isn't a target laptime shown though.


Platinum is more than reachable for most people. You’ll get there fairly soon. Even some Specialists like Nagao are fairly not that hard to get either. You’re not even Full Spec yet so don’t worry about it, Full Spec is where your real game begins and where you can truly judge your skills.

[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 25 2018, 12:43 AM
LeGeNd-1
Posted: Apr 25 2018, 07:32 PM


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QUOTE

It’s kind of hard to describe, it’s more drifty than D7 but still fairly grip based and not like D6 at all.

The footwork is vastly different though. On a wheel setup, D7 primarily is a right footed game where your left foot just stays passive for occasional drifts while your right foot controls your lining. D8 by contrast is mostly a two footed game where you’ll be using the brake pedal a lot more. Mostly for drift techniques but it can also be used for braking at some points as  well since it’s weaker than D7.

Back in the arcade it took some time to get used to D8 because my left foot is used to not doing much in the previous D7 game. It requires some change in muscle memory and habits.


Nice! As long as it's not drifty I'm game. Seems to me like it's a nice middle ground between 6 and 7. It's nice that 7 is fairly straighforward but I miss the use of brakes because of my sim background sometimes. If the brake in 8 is less OP that's good news.

I'm not sure if Zero is already out outside Japan? If you have tried it what are your thoughts?

QUOTE

Yes that started with D4 onwards.

Personally that’s one of the big pluses of the IDAS series in my book. It’s fun having to explore a new concept because the games tend to be fairly different even if most of the courses are the same. And the games are very different enough that each becomes its own unique experience on their own.

When a new IDAS game comes out, it’s not new content like courses that necessarily attracts you but to see how your familiar courses have all changed. The way one tackles a course in different games are all different. You look up all the new Japanese Youtube videos to see what’s different, theorizes what changed and what’s not. What still works and what doesn’t. It’s like coming to a new renovating theme park.

Sure it can get tiresome since you have to put effort but the process of learning itself is part of the fun.

It’s one of the reasons why most IDAS games are worth revisiting because each of them bring something unique to the table. It’s not as if each game is just an updated improvement over the other with minor changes. D5 have weird slowdown boost saving controls, D6 is about drifting as wide to get direct horsepower boosts, D7 is about minimal Braking and Accel control while D8 is about Brake and Accel spamming, etc.


I guess it just appeals to different people. I get the fresh challenge point of view, but it can be quite frustrating for players who have mastered the previous game, then to have to start all over from zero learning again. Sometimes you just "click" with a physics model and don't want it to change you know? You're looking forward to new cars and tracks in the new game and BAM you're suddenly driving like a noob.

Also for newbies it can be quite daunting to have all these different physics each generation. What's with all the different techniques floating around discussions and such - I wouldn't know who to listen to or to trust! Whereas with Wangan you always know what to expect as it's consistent.

Personally rather than making physics changes the point of new editions, I kinda wish they would copy Wangan's route and go with more content. In arcades around here ID machines are virtually nonexistent, while Wangan is thriving. Mostly I think it's because highway racing is easier, but also because MT games have loads of cool new stuff - foreign cars, old cars, customizations and new highways with every edition. I think ID being faithful to its source content is great, but there's no reason why it can't add more cars from outside the anime and touges from all over Japan, not just the Kanto region (even world routes like Pikes Peak or Transfagarasan? ohmy.gif ). Add in a handling tuning system (a simple slider for grip/drift) instead of the editional physics changes so players can use what they're comfortable with. Maybe once MF Ghost gains an anime then its game can follow suit - there's lots of foreign cars in the manga.

QUOTE
Depends on the player, personally I tend to use a high setting in the arcades because I need to feel the lining. The consequence of that though is that I suffered nerve damage in my fingers during the D6 days. You can look up at some of my older posts on the D6 threads and see me complaining about it and asking whether it’s a normal thing lol.

Nothing permanent......I think but at the time it made my real life driving difficult when your finger nerves aren’t working properly since they tend to let go of stuff easily. It was also sucky because I had to limit my playing just to not aggravate the injury worse. Fortunately I never had the issue for D7 and D8 probabaly since they don’t require quick  wheel jerks like D6.


Damn that sucks. Glad you recovered. The only time I ever got a strain injury while playing is after I've done the 2x 24 hour races in GT5 endurance. I used the fastest car (Red Bull X1) so I can drive 16 hours and park it for 8 hours. By the end my arm muscles feel on fire and I can't feel my wrist laugh2.gif

I tried my wheel with the latest TP FFB - there is something to be felt there. Small vibrations and there seems to be a "catch" in the rotation at around 45 degree to either side. Still feels very weak though. I need to tinker more with the settings but no one ever explained what they are - the link in the UI just points to a reddit thread where everyone posts their individual settings. Not very helpful.

QUOTE
It is annoying but partly it is to ease of newer players into the game. That said in general I agree with you. This only started in D7 and beyond I think.


Yeah, doesn't make sense tough. The best way to get used to physics is if it's consistent. There's no point dumbing down early game physics if you have to relearn everything later on anyway.

QUOTE
It’s already been done for the old card types I believe on earlier versions of Teknoparrot for D6. Not sure about the new ones.


I'll try and have a search - probably I'll save the hardcore stuff for D8 once that version is supported in the public release, as it's the definitive version. This may be frowned upon, but I realise that you can just spam quit a race and it gives you 150 points in like 10 seconds instead of 450 points in 3 minutes if you play properly.

QUOTE
Platinum is more than reachable for most people. You’ll get there fairly soon. Even some Specialists like Nagao are fairly not that hard to get either. You’re not even Full Spec yet so don’t worry about it, Full Spec is where your real game begins and where you can truly judge your skills.


Yeah I thought so too. Maybe I should just stay away from watching WR videos until then lol. Finding it hard to find motivation to grind ID now, I'm focusing on MT5 since card saves are now available for it.



Anyway, thank you so much for your detailed posts. They are all racing games, but arcade games tend to have their own quirks compared to PC/console racers. Coming from a sim background they are a tough nut to crack driving technique wise. Not having the time to practice all the time also contributes. Your helpful tips and practicing on TP helped to demistify them a bit. Maybe next time I can beat my cousin when we go to arcades. If not, I'm still faster in Gran Turismo so that's ok too laugh2.gif

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on Apr 25 2018, 07:34 PM
gns64
Posted: Apr 25 2018, 08:45 PM


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QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ Yesterday, 5:30 PM)
Someone made an easy to use GUI to edit WMMT5 cards - I hope someone talented can also do one for ID.

I'm sure there will eventually be a robust card editor for D8 but a quick way to get full spec/cosmetics is open id8\data\GAME\GAME_SETTING.ini and on line #31 there are point values per race. change the values of story and TA to some large number 999999 for example. Then just do one race and go to the factory. No need to hex edit if you just want to be able to full spec and get aero parts
LeGeNd-1
Posted: Apr 26 2018, 02:56 PM


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QUOTE
I'm sure there will eventually be a robust card editor for D8 but a quick way to get full spec/cosmetics is open id8\data\GAME\GAME_SETTING.ini and on line #31 there are point values per race. change the values of story and TA to some large number 999999 for example. Then just do one race and go to the factory. No need to hex edit if you just want to be able to full spec and get aero parts


Oh cool, I might try that once ID8 is supported in the public version of TP. Do you know if a similar hack exists for ID7 though? And it wouldn't break the game in any way would it?
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 26 2018, 09:56 PM


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QUOTE (LeGeNd-1 @ 7 hours, 0 minutes ago)

Oh cool, I might try that once ID8 is supported in the public version of TP. Do you know if a similar hack exists for ID7 though? And it wouldn't break the game in any way would it?


Yes the exact same edit exists in D7 and D6 and no it wouldn’t break the game. Most of us have been using it.

Inside your dump folder, go to data, then GAME then select GAMESETTINGS.ini.

For getting a lot of points, just go to this section and edit STORY and TA to high numbers:
user posted image
Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.


For getting beyond B1, go further below to this section and just turn some numbers to 0. Just make it look like the pic below:
user posted image
Image size reduced, original size: 2048 x 1536. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.


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This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 26 2018, 10:38 PM
krs73
Posted: Apr 28 2018, 10:08 AM


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hi there, i'm having problems with the card read error since i guess version 1.33 of TP. Anyone has a clue how to get rid of the error 5108? thanks in advance and best regards...
SonicSP
Posted: Apr 28 2018, 02:01 PM


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YOUTUBE ( https://youtu.be/QbnDHFGje8A )


Trying to get the hang of D8 on the G25 wheel set. Around 5 seconds behind my best arcade time at the moment.

Really screwed up CP4 badly there.

QUOTE (krs73 @ 38 minutes, 34 seconds ago)
hi there, i'm having problems with the card read error since i guess version 1.33 of TP. Anyone has a clue how to get rid of the error 5108? thanks in advance and best regards...


Move your dump folder to the root of C drive. As in the highest part of C drive.

Then edit the game settings menu to reflect the new location of the dump. Then run the game and try again.

If you are still having problems after that, switch to the old card save system. Go to Game Settings and make sure EnableNewCardCode is not ticked. Then try again.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on Apr 28 2018, 02:11 PM
SonicSP
Posted: May 4 2018, 11:16 AM


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Really getting back the groove of playing again with the G25. It was hard at first cos the pedalwork moves the pedal sets so much. I had to buy a full set of rubber car floor mats to increase the friction of the floor and put a heavy toolbag in front of the pedal set as a counterweight. Now my setup is complete.

Man, CP1 and 2 are really hard on Akina DH. I’m 1.5 seconds faster than my arcade record on the PC however the PC version runs faster at 60FPS, which makes the times incomparable to the arcade version that runs on 59.4FPS or so. The difference can be a lot actually especially in Hakone.

YOUTUBE ( https://youtu.be/09jKI38oBE8 )
60 FPS version is on the actual video page.

Also force feedbacks seems to work well for the most part. Not as good as the arcade but I suspect it’s due to the G25 more than anything. It’s force feedback system is fairly archaic compared to the G27 and G29. But the lack of natural sequential shifter ability on the G29 makes me reluctant to upgrade to it (even if you can do the rubberband mod). Thrustmasters wheels are a a lot better but are pain to import over here in Malaysia.

D8 on PC, a dream come true.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 4 2018, 08:49 PM
holnivek
Posted: May 7 2018, 08:53 PM


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Has anyone run into this issue where the game time is out of sync with real time? In my case, the game runs 2.4x faster than real time (1s on my watch = 2.4s in game).

I suspect the culprit is my monitor's refresh rate, since I'm using a 144hz monitor and 144/60 = 2.4. So I changed my desktop refresh rate to 60hz but the issue remained.

I'm a bit tempted to ask in the teknoparrot discord but it says teknoparrot discussion = ban tongue.gif

Any senpai can help?
SonicSP
Posted: May 7 2018, 09:22 PM


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Have you tried going into your graphic card’s setting and activating V-Sync? On Nvidia cards the program is called Nvidia Control Panel. Haven’t owned an ATI card in more than ten years so forgot what their program is called.



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This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 7 2018, 09:23 PM
holnivek
Posted: May 7 2018, 11:58 PM


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I tried that too, didn't work. In the end what worked for me was setting "Preferred refresh rate" under Nvidia Control Panel to "Application-controlled". Once I did that, it was perfectly synced even with 144hz and V-Sync turned on.

Thanks for your reply though, Sonic. Maybe I'll see you in the lobby once I get ready for online battles. laugh2.gif

This post has been edited by holnivek on May 7 2018, 11:59 PM
SonicSP
Posted: May 8 2018, 12:02 AM


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I believe Teknoparrot limits refresh rate to 60 when in Full Screen but not in Windowed, so be careful if you ever switch it to Windowed Mode.

It might be a good idea to use a FPS counter to always be sure of what it’s running on. I have one almost always on to increase the legitimacy of my runs and battles in my recordings. I mainly use FRAPS now but Steam also has one built in.

Also useful info as you can see the data in real time. Useful in situations like - accidentally changing the refresh rate to 50, which will slow you down a lot. Happened to me once and I didn’t realize it until I tested it with a counter.

You can also use this to detect any dropped frames, which will greatly affect your performance. So if you feel like the game is being choked and is slowing you down or something......this will allow you to be sure. Even 1 FPS can have a huge difference in performance based on testing done so far.

10 FPS constant difference from start to finish roughly looks like this:
YOUTUBE ( https://youtu.be/6Q0P8FKAeZM )


It’s not in the text but one is running at 50hz and the other is at 60hz. This was before I used an FPS counter to check the framerates And was told by other people about its TP’s forced refresh rate settings.

As I mentioned at the beginning, TP automatically forces you to 60hz in Full Screen but follows your global settings in Windowed. I assume it can’t force it if the in the GPU control panel you didn’t allow it to set its own refresh rate.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 8 2018, 12:24 AM
holnivek
Posted: May 8 2018, 03:00 AM


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Wow, I wouldn't be able to tell both clips only differ by 10 fps. You would think that if the game slows you down due to the fps, then the timer should move slower too, but apparently not.

Feels good to be playing ID again after focusing on just Wangan for the past few months. REALLY not used to the physics of D7, need to start practicing.

BTW, what are those red markers on the steering wheel overlay in your video?

This post has been edited by holnivek on May 8 2018, 03:06 AM
SonicSP
Posted: May 8 2018, 03:22 AM


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The red markers indicate max turn angle of my steering wheel settings. That way the viewer can tell how close I am to locking, IE max turn. It’s a visual cue of not only my actual real life wheel, but also informs them of my settings.

Remember that sensitivity of your wheel turns is affected by your maximum wheel rotation. For example if you set it to something super low like 180 degrees, that means even small turn with the wheel will turn your car a lot. If you set it to something high like 540 (which is the arcade default), the same amount of wheel turning will turn your “car” a lot less.

If the yellow dot hits the red dot and stops there, it means Im turning it to the max IE I’m 100% turning in that direction. Because everybody can set their own settings based on preference, just seeing the wheel movement without knowing the max angle makes it a lot less useful. I can describe it of course in the description but I thought it would be better to show it.

If the red dots weren’t there, you wouldn’t be able to tell where the max turn is so it’s hard to know for sure how much I am turning. It’s not like in the arcades where you know the max turn is already unless the machine has been repaired/modded.

My wheel rotation is set around 510 like that.

Usually my videos have a simple description that says “Red Dots = Max Turn” but I think I changed it for this comparison video.

Sidenote, the red dots are really simple giant dots I made in GIMP 2.0 and then overlayed using OBS. Expert graphic designer, I am not. lololol

Also getting the darned dots to those location, believe it or not is a pain due to some flaws in scaling when I made them (they are actually super big, just scaled down) so if I accidentally move them in my recorder settings or something.....well suffice to say it would take me 10-15 minutes to get them back there with a level of frustration that makes me want to tear my hair out. facepalm.gif

This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 8 2018, 03:35 AM
holnivek
Posted: May 9 2018, 06:11 AM


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I was expecting you to use 540 so I thought maybe those markers are something else. Sounds like a lot of work to show them properly, appreciate it.

I'm adjusting my max rotation from 360 to 450 and it's a lot easier to control the car now, though sometimes I don't turn fast enough. Also trying half brake but it's difficult to do it consistently, since I'm too used to slamming the brakes from the D8 days.
LeGeNd-1
Posted: May 10 2018, 06:29 PM


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I'm back again to ID7 this week since Wangan servers see to have conked out - keep getting errors connecting despite nothing changed on my end. Either the actual servers for MT5 have been taken down, or they have realised people are now using TP and blocked that specific game dump from connecting.

Anyway, I tried editing the race win points, and have Full Specced all 3 of my cars now. You need around 70,000 points to Full Spec and there are 35 parts (5, 5, 7, 8, 10 for each stage), so the most efficient way is to set race win point to 6000, which will give 2000 points for instant quitting (1/3 of win point). 2000 x 35 = 70,000. You can full spec a car from scratch in less than 20 minutes. Of course you can set the points higher, but I hate wasting points. Those full widebody kits though are crazy expensive laugh2.gif

BTW, is there a way to equip more than one part at a time in garage? Back in IDES you can but this being an arcade game I'm not sure the makers put in that ability as they don't expect you to accumulate a lot of points quickly.

With regards to driving, I've been getting used to manual transmission as well. I can now get Gold quite comfortably on most tracks. Got Platinum in Usui quite easily, but I'm having trouble even at Akina Lake...I don't know how Specialist is even reachable.

I still haven't gotten used to the wheel yet. Been tinkering with the FFB settings in TP - seems like Constant and Spring values have the most effect. I set Constant to 2250 and Spring to 1250, the others to 1000. Using G25 wheel btw. In Maxi Tune it feels maybe 90% of what it's like in the arcade, but without a point of reference for ID7 I have no idea how close it is. My main problem is I'm not turning the wheel enough - it's so hard coming from sim racing to tell your brain to crank out the wheel to full lock every single turn lol. At the moment, I'm about 3 secs faster with a pad than with a wheel.

My cars are Genki RX7 (starter car, AT), NSX (MT) and Bunta's Impreza (MT). I like choosing cars with different drivetrains so I can get a feel for the differences in handling. Back in IDES I chose AE86, FD RX7 and EVO III. The RX7 seems a bit stiff but once you drift it's the hardest to get back in line. The NSX is the best handling one IMO, drifts nice and easy to recover. The Subaru is harder to initiate drift and it needs the most off throttle to get it turned in, but it's also the safest and you will never overdrift it.

Tempted to make a new card and build a Prius next just for lulz.

I'm also using this ranking to see which cars are the meta: https://idrankings.com/initiald/v7/rankings
Kinda suprised the sedan Trueno is faster than Takumi's. Also, because the rankings are pulled from the server, the lesser popular cars might be underrepresented and set inaccurate slow times. Surely Itsuki's AE85 isn't that slow? The Prius I can understand because it has no gears. Also surprised how average the Complete Cars are. There's almost no point picking them since you can't customize their appearance either.

Public support for ID8 can't come soon enough...

This post has been edited by LeGeNd-1 on May 10 2018, 07:27 PM
SonicSP
Posted: May 11 2018, 03:24 AM


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^D8 Support is already out! ^ _ ^

QUOTE
BTW, is there a way to equip more than one part at a time in garage? Back in IDES you can but this being an arcade game I'm not sure the makers put in that ability as they don't expect you to accumulate a lot of points quickly.


Back in the day if you are a DNET subscriber in D7, you can upgrade as many parts as you want without the one part limit. That’s a monthly membership you have to pay. The limitation is there to make you waste more money basically:

It’s not an issue in D8 though, you can upgrade as many parts as you want at a time as long as you have a point even without the subscription.

QUOTE
Got Platinum in Usui quite easily, but I'm having trouble even at Akina Lake...I don't know how Specialist is even reachable.


Some Specialists are harder than others. From my understand the one in Usui requires you to be fairly close to the World Record time.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 11 2018, 05:59 AM
holnivek
Posted: May 11 2018, 08:02 AM


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QUOTE (SonicSP @ 4 hours, 32 minutes ago)
^D8 Support is already out! ^ _ ^


OH SWEET BABY JESUS THIS OLD MAN'S BODY IS READY

QUOTE (SonicSP @ 4 hours, 32 minutes ago)
Some Specialists are harder than others. From my understand the one in Usui requires you to be fairly close to the World Record time.


Usui SP actually felt quite attainable. I'm 1s away from SP on CCW and it's only my third try on RX-7.
Myogi SP, on the other hand, felt like a different beast (or I'm just terrible).

Is there a way to modify your rank in D8? I'm guessing teknoparrot emulation only supports in-store battles, which doesn't change your rank. But I remember seeing a YouTube video of someone who had non-E3 rank. Not greedy, just want my A rank back awesome.gif

This post has been edited by holnivek on May 11 2018, 08:14 AM
SonicSP
Posted: May 11 2018, 09:37 AM


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You need to hex edit your rank in order to modify it. Or just use the latest version of I’mNotMental’s card editor/launcher.

As for the Usui SP, I can’t remember whether it was CCW or CW that was very difficult. I don’t have the SP times with me anymore to compare.

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This post has been edited by SonicSP on May 11 2018, 09:38 AM
holnivek
Posted: May 11 2018, 10:26 AM


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QUOTE (SonicSP @ 48 minutes, 35 seconds ago)
You need to hex edit your rank in order to modify it.

Which file am I supposed to modify?

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