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Nomake Wan | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 02:51 AM |
ShiMACHaze Group: Advanced Members Posts: 19,542 Member No.: 5,394 Joined: Feb 5th 2005 Location: Drydock | Yeah, how do you do that painting? It really does look spectacular. Speaking of spectacular, this isn't mine, but I think this is the best gunpla job I've ever seen in my entire life. |
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Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 03:50 AM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | nice blend of metallics and gloss paints there and it seems like they got a darker transparent red for the Unicorn's destroy mode! That a really good find Nomake! The secret behind the MG Destiny is simple its all in the matte black undercoat without it all metallic paint schemes would look way too fake and glossy. The black not only darkens the colour and kills some sheen it also highlights all the panel groovings giving it a realistic mechanic appearance. |
Nomake Wan | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 04:03 AM |
ShiMACHaze Group: Advanced Members Posts: 19,542 Member No.: 5,394 Joined: Feb 5th 2005 Location: Drydock | So you're all up on airbrushing, eh? That seems to be what like... 90% of the gunpla community uses. It makes me feel silly. |
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Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 05:34 AM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | ^ No not at all you'll be surprised at the amount of people that just build their gundams straight from the box the number of kits that are left unpainted far exceed painted kits. This is because the majority of people that buy gunpla are anime fans not actual modellers. |
The New Guy | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 10:10 AM |
wandering idiot Group: Advanced Members Posts: 755 Member No.: 24,420 Joined: May 14th 2007 Location: Milton Ontario Canada | OOOOOOOOOOOOOOO SHINY lol, that looks amazing. |
Nomake Wan | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 12:53 PM | ||
ShiMACHaze Group: Advanced Members Posts: 19,542 Member No.: 5,394 Joined: Feb 5th 2005 Location: Drydock |
No, I mean, using enamels and a brush instead of airbrushing. | ||
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BOZZ | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 12:59 PM | ||
IDW Posts A Freaking LOT Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 28,412 Member No.: 1,414 Joined: Mar 9th 2004 Location: Update Profile |
That's no surprise... If it was the other way around then I would be surprised... Anyhow, how did you guys learn how to do the painting stuff so nicely? Any tips on where to start? | ||
Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 03:36 PM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | Nomake: Man I have a bad habit of misinterpreting things these days.... Airbrushing is what most modellers choose because it covers a broad surface area and is consistant. hand painting is less favoured because you neeed to have a steady hand and often you would find that theres brush strokes left on your paintwork. I leave large surface areas to airbrushing and paint all the minor details on myself Tips in general for people starting to airbrush hmmm 1. Dont buy a real airbrush yet get a feel for the spraying process and buy paint cans like Tamiya cans and Gundam Spray to begin with. Work with the standard semi gloss. Spraying wise the most important thing is thant you keep your distance and spray beyond the surface area you want to paint. This would minimising paint welts at the end of the plastic and thick bubbles. 2. When yu are confident with controlling the can, try working on a different paint scheme like matte and metallic. If you are confident you can do that as well then upgrade to the airbrush. But yeah its actually harder than it seems and like most things takes practice you wouldnt believe how many kits I have screwed up before EDIT: I remember Kyishi saying that he couldnt distinguish between the MG and 1/100 in an earlier thread. This is the MG from my nooby days!! the most I did was detail painting and spraying the black parts in (the first time I used spray)...VERY DODGY Personally I believe my MG would have looked beter if I built it out of the box at the time. The merit I give to MG lines is that they are great for displaying even straight from the box they are perfect for anime fans that want something detailed but dont want to paint it. this is new guys 1/100 and yeah of course Strike Freedom so you can compare the difference and similarities You will notice alot of my shots are taken in the bathroom this is because the heater lights give awesome lighting for the camera and the second reason is under the strong heater light I can see any mistakes in the paintwork that i may have missed. This post has been edited by Metamorphic on Jul 12 2008, 05:57 PM |
Kitty | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 08:08 PM | ||
Bad Luck Group: Advanced Members Posts: 653 Member No.: 23,812 Joined: Mar 30th 2007 Location: Parts Unknown |
That's what I do. I feel it makes a more personalized finish that makes it stand out from airbrushed models. :3 That and I'm too cheap to buy an airbrush. >_> | ||
Kelvin | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 08:10 PM |
! Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,871 Member No.: 24,344 Joined: May 8th 2007 Location: Pallet Town | Just curious, what camera did you use to take those shots? This post has been edited by Kyishi on Jul 12 2008, 08:10 PM |
Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 08:13 PM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | The majority of them are taken with the Sony DSC-H3, semi pro camera with 8.1 Mp sensor, 10x optical zoom and lens adaptor for tele and wide lens conversion Some may have been taken with the Sony DSC-T5 and I know the MG Freedom was taken with my first digi cam forgot the model number as I lost that one on the train. This post has been edited by Metamorphic on Jul 12 2008, 08:15 PM |
Kelvin | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 08:47 PM |
! Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,871 Member No.: 24,344 Joined: May 8th 2007 Location: Pallet Town | Wow I'm sorry for that. Do we have to wash the runners with running tape water before assembling? I read from a Gundam thread that it is needed. But why? |
Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 12 2008, 08:55 PM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | its recommended in case theres still excess dye thats on the plastic. If you spray on top of that excess dye it mixes with the paint your using and ruins your paint job. |
Kelvin | Posted: Jul 13 2008, 11:35 PM |
! Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,871 Member No.: 24,344 Joined: May 8th 2007 Location: Pallet Town | Meta: How do you do panel lines? Do u do them while they're still on runners or you do them when u remove the individual pieces out? Some lines are really a pain to get in. |
Axl | Posted: Jul 13 2008, 11:42 PM | ||
Noobass Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,788 Member No.: 3,248 Joined: Sep 21st 2004 Location: Update Profile |
what kind of paint do you use for that kind of look? i like it when the gundam models look like that. | ||
Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 02:41 AM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | Axl: dude u could have asked me over MSN! Its prodominantly matte but for an extra highlighting effect the blues were treated with semi gloss. The rail cannons are pearl metallics treated with a matte top spray. Kyishi: Panel lines are done in mid construction eg when he head is completed ill do the head. Its too hard doing it on the runner. I just use the gundam marker but i guess it comes with experience all i do is hook the tip of the pen in and gently push the plastic along Ah yeah since Nomake showed me the custom Unicorn I went out to buy my own to do a custom colour so look out for that when its done! This post has been edited by Metamorphic on Jul 14 2008, 04:11 AM |
Nomake Wan | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 03:44 AM | ||
ShiMACHaze Group: Advanced Members Posts: 19,542 Member No.: 5,394 Joined: Feb 5th 2005 Location: Drydock |
Oh wow, we do it the same way. I was gonna post that (Do it in parts, e.g. arm, thigh, head) but I wasn't sure so I left it to the resident expert. Awesome! As for the Unicorn, I can't wait to see what you come up with! | ||
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Kelvin | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 04:50 AM |
! Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,871 Member No.: 24,344 Joined: May 8th 2007 Location: Pallet Town | One more thing: Do you guys ever broke the parts during construction? I use a small drop of super-glue to stick them back up. |
TigerZai | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 08:27 AM |
Request Title - PM Mods Group: Members Posts: 331 Member No.: 29,780 Joined: Jun 12th 2008 Location: Msia-Kedah-SP | ooh.. depends lor ... sometime will broke the parts but i dont use super glue to stick them back because the glue will spoil the model and normally i use the glue ( i think ) its wont seem like we had broken the piece be4 ... but i donno where to get it . i borrow from my frd hahaa |
Nomake Wan | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 06:53 PM |
ShiMACHaze Group: Advanced Members Posts: 19,542 Member No.: 5,394 Joined: Feb 5th 2005 Location: Drydock | I don't suggest using plastic cement on Gunpla. I did that once on Deathscythe Hell's beam scythe and it actually melted the plastic. Never again. |
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Akira77 | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 08:05 PM |
IDW Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 70 Member No.: 7,899 Joined: May 21st 2005 Location: Update Profile | Metamorphic: How long have you been building kits for? What kind of cutters are you using? Is there any kit you'd recommend for starters? Fwiw, I'd like to make a UC kit, but not sure if i'd just want to build one first, or save myself the hassle and just get a fix instead. Nomake Wan: Which plastic cement did you use? |
Demon_Lord | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 08:49 PM |
炎髪灼眼の討ち手 Group: Advanced Members Posts: 637 Member No.: 23,377 Joined: Feb 25th 2007 Location: Pennsylvania | Wow...just wow, all the gundams in this thread are so freakin epic. You guys have so much talent!! I wish I could paint a gundam like you guys. The last time I tried, I ended up throwing it away because it was just that bad. +1 for epicness guys |
Nomake Wan | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 10:24 PM | ||
ShiMACHaze Group: Advanced Members Posts: 19,542 Member No.: 5,394 Joined: Feb 5th 2005 Location: Drydock |
It was years ago... I honestly don't remember the brand. I used to use it so that I could correct defects in Star Wars and Star Trek toys (cementing the laser cannons, wings, etc). But when I tried it on that scythe it just melted. | ||
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Kitty | Posted: Jul 14 2008, 10:49 PM | ||
Bad Luck Group: Advanced Members Posts: 653 Member No.: 23,812 Joined: Mar 30th 2007 Location: Parts Unknown |
My glue actually melts the parts too, but I think it kinda fuses the plastic together as it glues to them. It's that non-toxic Testor's brand in the blue metal tube. | ||
Metamorphic | Posted: Jul 15 2008, 01:41 AM |
IDW Goldmember Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,380 Member No.: 4,338 Joined: Nov 18th 2004 Location: Update Profile | Kyishi: I have fond memories of breaking stuff! In the manual theres a parts order option thats only available in Japan. I fortunately have a Japanese friend with family over there so whenever I need to get new parts I ask her. Akira: I started making Gundams since I was twelve but didnt take it as a serious hobby until I was 20 Im turning 24 this year so Ill say three years and a bit of experience. As for starter kits try some 1/144 kits hmmmm if UC tickles your fancy try the HGUC range. Nearly any mobile suit u can think of from UC is in their selection. As for tools I use the nipper that Ban Dai promotes to cut the parts off, conventional nail clippers to remove the stubbs and fine sandpaper to smooth the surface. With the common topic of cement I will be surprised if it doesnt melt your plastic how the stuff works is that it melts the plastic so that the plastic can bond together. in general u wont be needing cement for gundam kits. But I use it for minor repairs. a general tip is just apply a little bit to the mending surface and stick it together promptly. If you start wriggling it melted plastic will accumulate into a mush at the gaps and itll look fugly as for the brand I dont look further than Tamiya Anyway guys this is the site I look at for my information and purchase decisions. With current kits they have really helpful images of the trees so u know what your expecting, the whole manual and the colour guide for buying paint. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/gundam/ This post has been edited by Metamorphic on Jul 15 2008, 01:50 AM |
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