After using the new oil, it seems the ticking isn't as loud as it once was, too bad I can't tell for sure since the car doesn't get a chance to warm up thanks to my ignition switch going out. Car won't even stay started for more than a minute...
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| Initial D World - Discussion Board / Forums > Technical Discussion > Honda Problem |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 09:53 AM |
| Well my engine has developed a ticking noise, so I thought it needed a valve adjustment (which I did twice just to be sure). Didn't fix it the ticking... Here's a video of the noise in question: http://www.viddler.com/SomeGuy207/videos/1/ Anyone know what it might be? (Please forgive my horrible camera work.) |
| Posted by: flohtingPoint Apr 30 2010, 10:02 AM |
| Model, engine, miles, age, timing belt replacement? Mainly just sounds like valve tick. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 10:09 AM |
| Ah, knew I forgot to add something to my post. 1998 EX with a Japanese B16a/GSR head, about 76k miles, and it's had work done to the head (crower valves, skunk 2 cams, etc.) before I bought it from my friend so I'm sure he's changed the belt. |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Apr 30 2010, 10:40 AM |
| It's a Honda. Engine swap. Seriously, it's a very easy job, can be done very cheaply, and if that engine's already had work, why not? |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 10:54 AM | ||
Well by work I meant upgrades, so I'd like to keep the head if possible. Now I've also had someone suggest that the ticking I'm hearing may be a rod bearing on it's way out, and I've read that the main reason for bearings to fail is due to lack of lubrication. But I've never once run this engine low on oil, and I'm sure my friend hasn't either. |
| Posted by: flohtingPoint Apr 30 2010, 10:59 AM |
| When did this ticking start? What was the last thing done (please dont say nothing)? What weight oil do you use? Ask your friend if he changed the timing belt, assume nothing. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 11:05 AM | ||
Noticed it last month before I went to adjust valves since I had some ticking in the head (which went away after adjusting valves) so the ticking I hear now is more noticeable. Last thing I've done is adjust the valves (Twice just to be sure I didn't mess up somehow). 5w-30 full synthetic. Will do, I'll call him when he gets off work. |
| Posted by: flohtingPoint Apr 30 2010, 11:13 AM |
| Did you adjust the valves yourself? Do you have any experience with this or were you just wrenching? Also, bump your oil thickness up, try 10W-40 and see how it sounds. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 11:18 AM |
| Well, I read this guide a bunch of times and followed it: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/valveadjust/valveadjust.php But I went to skunk2's website and looked up the valve lash numbers there and set them to those specs. After each valve, I double checked the lash just to make sure the screw didn't move while tightening the nut. Will try new oil, should I stick with synthetic or use regular? |
| Posted by: flohtingPoint Apr 30 2010, 11:19 AM | ||
Stick with synth, you shouldn't need dino. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 11:24 AM |
| Gotcha, but looking at valvolines website, I only see the synthetic go up to 10w-30. Would that suffice? |
| Posted by: flohtingPoint Apr 30 2010, 11:26 AM | ||
M1 sells 10W-40. I'm not sure if it's a national wide thing, but Advanced is having a sale on cases. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 11:33 AM | ||
Alright, I'll head to the store tomorrow and grab some, thanks. |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Apr 30 2010, 01:19 PM |
| Damn, I feel like a bit of a cock for suggesting an engine swap. If it makes you feel any better, from the video, I don't think that sounds like a bad crankbearing. Having torn one to shreds, I know what it's like. If it's on the way out, it'll cause huge vibrations when you try to start it. You might have a clogged oil passage somewhere causing the Valvetrain to be under-lubed. Gunk buildup is no fun. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 02:25 PM | ||
It's ok lol, but how would I go about unclogging them if they are clogged up? Is there some sort of additive? |
| Posted by: flohtingPoint Apr 30 2010, 02:33 PM | ||
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Check that first as that'll tell you if something is off. |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Apr 30 2010, 02:44 PM |
| They make a product that you dump in your old oil, idle the engine for a couple minutes, then change it out. I'm not sure how far I trust that, though. If your car has had regular oil changes, I don't really think sludge buildup will be a huge problem. I'd just change to the thick stuff like Floh recommended and be sure to get a new oil filter. Change it immediately after you're done driving it, when the oil is still hot, that should allow most of it, and any thicker parts to flow right out. If the oil change history is questionable, go ahead and try the solvent product. Waxes in the oil tend to harden, and that's a large component in sludge. Synthetics don't really wear out the same way dino oil does, and they stay pretty homogeneous, only problem is the additives get used up, so you still have to change it. Side note: I wish I had an oil pressure gauge. That'd tell me how thin I can go. My guess is my car will probably only work on 40w90. |
| Posted by: SmGy Apr 30 2010, 03:04 PM |
| Guess I'll need to grab a oil pressure gauge tomorrow too. I've kept up on oil changes since I've had the car, and he changed it before he sold it to me almost two years ago. He's the one who told me to use the 5w-30 full synthetic in the first place. |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Apr 30 2010, 03:56 PM |
| Then it's probably not a clog, that sounds like a pretty clean history. |
| Posted by: Spaz Apr 30 2010, 10:02 PM | ||
O'Reilly is too. Shit's cheaper than it's been in years. We also just got in stock a house brand synthetic, which is the same quality as all the basic Valvoline/Castrol full synthetics. If you really want to make noises go away, Shell Rotella T 15w-40. |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Apr 30 2010, 10:05 PM |
| Oh damn, I should try that shell. BMW M20 engines' default noise is CLACKCLACKCLACK. Then again, I think the only real cure for that would be gear oil with some ZDDP in it. |
| Posted by: SmGy Jun 7 2010, 11:00 AM |
| Sorry for the late reply, never got a chance to change the oil until yesterday. After using the new oil, it seems the ticking isn't as loud as it once was, too bad I can't tell for sure since the car doesn't get a chance to warm up thanks to my ignition switch going out. Car won't even stay started for more than a minute... |
| Posted by: dj_Lott3 Jun 23 2010, 09:34 PM | ||
I'm not even sure an oil with a high ZDDP content would even help it, since the zinc and phosphorus act as sacrificial items to help PREVENT excessive wear. After the fact it'll just help with future wear. I would personally rebuild the head and spec everything to see if you can find the culprit. Also pay attention to the oil that you pick in the future (personally I use Amsoil) . Here's a great article on the topic.  http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=945638917 |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Jun 24 2010, 03:10 AM |
| Thanks for the advice, and that link has some sweet information, but M20's will never be quiet. My engine is pretty damn healthy for a 140,000 mile piece. Freshly rebuilt M20's still sound like diesels, it's just the way they work. |
| Posted by: dj_Lott3 Jun 24 2010, 07:35 AM | ||
My apologies. I was actually agreeing with your point on a high ZDDP content oil in relation to addressing the OPs issue. I should have read your post more carefully. |
| Posted by: MetalMan777 Jun 24 2010, 02:28 PM |
| It's cool. ZDDP is just one of the things that I miss about old cars. New ones never got any of that, leaded gas, and more importantly, free breathing exhausts. I miss the days before catalysts were required. |
| Posted by: sideways Jun 25 2010, 01:38 PM |
| Grab the longest screw driver youve got, place the tip against spots on the motor, and your ear on the handle. Poke around until you find the source of the noise. USE YOUR BEST JUDGMENt AND WATCH WTF YOURE DOING Seriously, not taking responsibility if you go and put that thing into your timing gear and tear your face off  That said, if you havent done this or even heard of it- Youll probably be surprised with what you can actually hear and to the level of clarity you can hear it. With the right screw driver I can hear the wind noise of exhaust gas as it pulses through a manifold. Youll have no trouble locating the source of the noise, just find where its the loudest. Specificly try spots along the head above the valves, try the side of the block if you can get to it, and try the manifold (cant watch your video- and im not assuming its an exhaust leak based on whats been said- but hey never know). Best of luck. Keep us informed on what happens. |
| Posted by: Spaz Jun 25 2010, 08:01 PM |
| ^ If you want something dedicated, they make actual automotive-geared stethoscopes with a long probe on the end. While not necessary, it'll definitely increase clarity even more. |
| Posted by: dj_Lott3 Jun 25 2010, 08:58 PM | ||
You may very well be right as that was my initial thought too. A tube works as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yu_PJ2B2Tjw |
| Posted by: SmGy Jun 26 2010, 07:37 AM | ||
I'll try this, but I'll need to replace the ignition switch before I can do anything  . |