Close Topic Options

It doesn't need to lock up if the wheel is locked up. It will transfer torque to the slower spinning wheel. I mean, I'm not crazy, right? That is how it works?

We confirmed last night that the center diff is fucked. With the rear on the ground and the front in the air, spinning both fronts the same direction will yield a lockup once the driveline slop is gone, even though the center diff is fully open under no throttle conditions (such as ignition off), but once the prop shaft locks up the whole thing stops.

The spiders looked good when the trans was rebuilt, so who knows. I'll just have to do another rebuild and throw the Exedy in while it's out.

They don't really transfer torque so much as keep one tire from spinning faster than the other, which effectively transfers torque to the tire with traction.Clutch pack diffs (traditional diffs) hey do this by locking the wheels together with cams and clutches. Helical diffs do it with gears.

Effectively speaking they do the same thing (they limit slip, hence the name), but helical diffs sacrifice response, absolute traction, and the ability to function when one wheel is off the ground for better drivability, no noise, and low maintenance.

A clutch pack won't work if it isn't locking, which is why they need frequent oil changes and rebuilds. It eventually just turns into an open diff.

A helical diff never locks up, which makes it easier to turn.

This post has been edited by Banken on Apr 21 2014, 07:04 AM

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101977-hel...que-bias-ratio/

I thought this might help. Or make it worse. But it might help

This post has been edited by sideways on Apr 22 2014, 12:07 AM

The clutch pack is locking, trust me. I can hear it doing so when everything binds up. I could also feel it under hard on-throttle cornering previous to this issue. Regardless, the center diff is locked up. We confirmed this and the trans will come out shortly.

Well, we were wrong. The center diff was fine.

The transfer case was torn into next, and the front diff was for sure bad, leaning on a shaft would force one of the helical gears into the housing, causing it to skip. The diff was replaced and all is good there. My old Exedy, however, needed a rebuild thanks to damaged discs from the accident, and the rear end still scuffs the tires... So the issue in front likely damaged the rear, which we knew had plenty of abuse anyway. So that'll be rebuilt here as well.

Alignment is scheduled for Thursday evening, shakedown is Friday. Here's hoping there aren't any more snags since this is already forcing me to pull out of the USCA event at Gateway in July.

This post has been edited by Spaz on Apr 30 2014, 08:48 AM

Might as well throw in a straight cut gear box while you're in there

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


THIS THIS THIS THIS!!!

I'm about ready to...

Hasn't even left the shop and it's binding again, trans is going to come back out. And I'm also about ready to put it in storage for the rest of the summer and cancel my racing weekends.

Went to a track day last night, drove a couple others' cars, and came out having learned a lot. My goal was to learn to be smooth and precise, not jerky, not tossing the car around, and I was making notable improvements.

One of my instructors summed me up very well: "You have good instincts to go fast, and you know know where the lines are, you just need to apply smooth inputs and patience to that." That's a bit of a paraphrase since I don't remember exact words but that was the gist of it.

Also got a ride in the car that my wheels and tires came off of, and it reaffirmed that my build strategy with this one is sound; He's got a bunch of suspension stuff, stock boost with a clean up tune, and the car just tears up tracks. Talked to him about some alignment numbers and should be good to go once we figure out the driveline.

So, I'm planning to pick the car up tonight from the shop. The ACD is the culprit, it's not relieving pressure so the system is 100% locked 100% of the time. Disabling the pump and depressurizing the system solved the issue.

So the car has a 100% open center diff at the moment but I can at least drive it while I search for parts, probably just a solenoid.

You'd think they'd have some kind of diagnostic tool to find out exactly where the fault is, or something. Lock out the shaft to the front, rwd ftw. Not that an open center diff is going to ruin your life.

So does that mean all the power to the rear or all the power to the front when disabled?

Did changing the setting with the Snow/Gravel/Tarmac switch change anything?

This post has been edited by Banken on May 9 2014, 03:06 PM

It means it sends more power to whichever side has less traction. Exactly the opposite of what you want.

Exactly. So the solution is to toss it really hard into a corner to get the ass out, then stand on the throttle. Instant drift machine!

I kid, I kid.

Changing the ACD setting did nothing because the system was literally at max pressure 100% of the time. Lock is achieved at about 16bar, and the safety valve opens at 18bar. The system had tons of pressure even with the car off, which was right away an indication that something isn't right. We left the system depressurized and disabled it entirely; I have no mode selection lights at all on the dash.

I'm in the process of sourcing a new solenoid, but it'll be tough. Not exactly a common part and not something Mitsu sells without the pump.

This post has been edited by Spaz on May 12 2014, 01:02 PM

Speaking of diffs... I think the spare transmission I have in my house has an aftermarket LSD in it. I hope. The gear oil change interval is a bitch on the wallet, though.

Ever notice how a lot of times the manufacturer won't sell the parts most likely to break by themselves? Things like that ~$50 solenoid always end up coming with a $1,500 pump. Or the ball joints of the front arm of a post-89 FC, which only come with a new arm.

I could look online here if you want... Evo parts are probably a lot easier to come by, and I assume something like this would be universal between JDM/USDM/etc.

This post has been edited by Banken on May 10 2014, 02:00 AM

8/9/10 all use the same solenoid, and the 10 has two. I would assume that 4/5/6/7 use the same as well, I've been around Mitsus long enough to know how they build these things.

I may end up needing the whole pump though, at least I'll pick one up, then try the solenoid. If it works, done deal, and I sell the pump sans solenoid for $100 less. if not, I throw the whole thing in, still no big deal. Problem gets solved regardless.

In other news, I got an alignment... And this is where things get REALLY interesting:

Image size reduced, original size: unknown. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

The passenger rear is AS GOOD AS IT GETS. Those numbers are with the camber eccentric MAXED negative, and the toe eccentric binds and won't go further toward zero. Now, here's the kicker; the camber eccentric on the driver's side is maxed POSITIVE. It will not go any more positive than -0.8. Toe is fine on that side. So I've come to the conclusion that the subframe needs to be realigned to the unibody. Only explanation as to why it would be like it is considering the unibody is straight... At least straight enough to not cause nearly half an inch of variation in bolt position, that would be pretty darn visible.

So it's more fun to come, but I'm not pulling my hair out wanting to sell the thing anymore now that the driveline is figured out. Put 715 miles on it since Friday (yay cruises!) and am right back head over heels for it.

The solution would be adding more negative to the right rear... -0.8 is more than a reasonable amount for a car that sees track duty.

I just got my rears set to -2.2 the other day (with camber bolts)...and I could probably use a little bit more (but would need to slot my struts for that).

I'm pretty sure the 4/5/6 don't use the same pump since apparently the 7+ AYC has twice as much power transferability.

Also, CT9A pumps go for about $400-500 on Yahoo Auctions...just FYI.

I'm aware of both the pricing and pump differences, but I'm speaking specifically of the solenoid being the same between them. As I said, it wouldn't surprise me. This would have to be verified, however.

Regardless, maybe reread what I wrote about the rear end alignment? SOMETHING is definitely off, I can take some pics of the camber eccentrics if you need me to. The driver's side is maxed out positive, the passenger side maxed negative. The upper arms bolt to the unibody so the subframe being offset perfectly explains what I'm seeing. Regardless, I need to fix it, 200 or less treadwear tires won't last with that much toe, and I'm nearly due for new ones, so it needs to be in spec by then.

Use some string and plumb bobs to measure the center of the sub frame compared to the centerline of the chassis. It's a technique listed in How to Make Your Car Handle.

I'll have to do that. I'll get in contact with a buddy with a lift.

I miss this Forum. I got some reading to do so I can see what you have done to your IX

Auto section FTW!

On the IX, not much, yet. Just spent way too much on diagnostics and need to drop more still on actual fixes. Pay day is Friday so I plan to get an ACD pump assembly on the way to have the driveline at near 100%. My next shake down is the 23rd. The alignment stuff can hold off but I do need to have a solid picture of how the car acts on these springs in a controlled environment with the driveline transferring power properly.

Based on the wallowy feel in hard fast corners from this past weekend, I'm guessing I'll want to go stiffer, which means revalving too... I've heard that the N1 EXVs don't handle more than 8k without modification.

This was also with a wonky alignment why don't you get that fixed and re-evaluate?

That's part of it, but I'm mainly concerned with body roll and how that specifically is affecting grip.