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> Initial D model kits, show them off
kyonpalm
Posted: Feb 20 2009, 01:29 AM


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Lemme see... I have some models not-neccesarily-related-to-Initial-D...

First of all:
I... FAIL... AT... PAPERCRAFT... dry.gif
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Now, I DO have some die-casts but not all of them are in the best of condition...

Maserati 3200GT:
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Lamborghini Diablo SV:
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Ferrari Enzo:
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Porsche 911 GT1 '98:
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NOOOOOOOSSSSSS!!!!!!!
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admiralhonshu
Posted: Feb 20 2009, 06:13 AM


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Why did you tape it, together I mean, the paper models, they look so jank. LoL!
kyonpalm
Posted: Feb 20 2009, 09:10 AM


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QUOTE (admiralhonshu @ 2 hours ago)
Why did you tape it, together I mean, the paper models, they look so jank. LoL!

I didn't have any glue on hand, and really, I just didn't give a damn... laugh.gif

This post has been edited by ryosuke63 on Feb 20 2009, 09:10 AM
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lester7c
Posted: Feb 20 2009, 04:07 PM


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QUOTE (marcopreto @ Yesterday, 12:10 PM)
Hi:

Sorry for not posting sooner (I'm very busy in work and not modeling at all for some time now).

That particular body was painted the following way:

1- prime body (correcting any identified flaw);
2- base coat silver (Mr. Color silver);
3- purple coat (x3) - (this color is a mix of Mr. Color Clear Red, Mr. Color Clear Blue and a cheap iridescent nail polish);
4- Clear coat (x3) (Duplicolor Rally lack).

There is significant orange peel on the hood and in some other places because I failed to polish it out before applying the clear coat!

I hope it helps.

Cheers

Marco Preto

i am usig a paint can,... not a tamiya sprayer
marcopreto
Posted: Feb 21 2009, 07:25 AM


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QUOTE (lester7c @ Yesterday, 4:07 PM)
i am usig a paint can,... not a tamiya sprayer

Well, I told you how I did it!

I'm sure there are similar paints in spray cans!

The primer should protect the plastic body, and you should be able to even use automotive spray paints to paint it.

I believe that if you skip the silver base coat and use either an iridescent purple color or a metallic purple color, you can get a similar effect. And after this is well dried and cured, 2 coats of clear should give you a nice surface to polish.

I hope it helps.

Cheers

Marco Preto
lester7c
Posted: Feb 21 2009, 01:32 PM


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o i see. so i need 2 coats of clear and not 1.. i see my mistake in my 2nd model
marcopreto
Posted: Feb 22 2009, 11:46 AM


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QUOTE (lester7c @ Yesterday, 1:32 PM)
o i see. so i need 2 coats of clear and not 1.. i see my mistake in my 2nd model

There's not any rule! I like to use at least 2 coats of clear, because I find it easier to polish (but some time I use more coats).

I try to avoid very heavy coats because I usually mess up either with the paint (clear in this case) running down or "eating" the color coat. So I try to use lighter coats of clear and usually use 2, 3 or even 4 coats of clear. Like I've said I have no rule, just keep adding light coats until I get a almost smooth surface that is perfect for polishing (and this is done only after the paint is completly dry).

If you don't know what to expect from certain paints, try it on a piece of scrap plastic, like you would do on a model (that way you can see if the paints are compatibly and preview the finish you'll get without risking a model with many hours of work already spent on it)!

Cheers and best of luck on your future models

Marco Preto
yujioh
Posted: Mar 9 2009, 07:45 PM


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I didn't have any glue on hand, and really, I just didn't give a damn...
samtftse
Posted: Mar 11 2009, 02:39 AM


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wow all youre model kits are amazing wish i could do that
Twister1
Posted: Mar 12 2009, 03:52 AM


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are all too beautiful, I have to get someone sooner or later
lester7c
Posted: Mar 18 2009, 06:58 PM


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i have this video of decal application http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyl8gfnLMWQ&feature=related and my question is what was the transparengt things that he painted and he sprayed after applying the decals?. are those clear gloss?
marcopreto
Posted: Mar 20 2009, 09:16 AM


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Although I don't understand Japanese, I believe that he used a decal setting solution after applying the decals. There are several brands available, but basically all are a soft adhesive with a chemical to soften the decal film.

The stuff he sprays is urethane clear, a high gloss clear. Very toxic stuff to be used without convenient protective gear.

I've never used it, and even when spraying the lacquer based gloss clear that I usually use, I use a respirator with a filter for organic solvents (like this one: http://www.queenslandsafety.com.au/images/...rs_halfmask.jpg ).

Here is the warning label of this kind of product from a European brand:
"This product contains Isocyanates.
The possible dangers are, Vapor and spray mists are harmful. Over spray may cause lung damage. May cause allergic skin and respiratory reaction, May affect the brain or nervous system causing dizziness, headache, or nausea. May cause eye, skin, nose, and throat irritation. So please download the Safe Working with Isocyanate PDF, before purchasing/using and read it fully. "

The guy in the video is risking his health, and this should be a rewarding hobby, not the source of any problems.


Cheers

Marco Preto

This post has been edited by marcopreto on Mar 20 2009, 09:39 AM
lester7c
Posted: Mar 20 2009, 03:12 PM


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can i just use acrylic clear spray for substitute?
ArEa51
Posted: Mar 21 2009, 01:56 AM


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yea, most likely you can use the acrylic clear spray
gunmonic
Posted: Mar 21 2009, 10:18 PM


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WOW nice sprays bro......
marcopreto
Posted: Mar 23 2009, 04:45 PM


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QUOTE (lester7c @ Mar 20 2009, 03:12 PM)
can i just use acrylic clear spray for substitute?

As ArEa51 said, most likely, but I suggest you test if that clear is compatible with the base color on a scrap piece of plastic. That way, if the clear and the color coat aren't compatible, you didn't ruin your model (I've messed up some models this way).

Cheers and best of luck with your models

Marco Preto
lester7c
Posted: Mar 31 2009, 03:43 AM


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here's my latest, sorry it's dark
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the original model of this is Arai's but I made it custom. as always

This post has been edited by lester7c on Mar 31 2009, 03:46 AM
marcopreto
Posted: Apr 28 2009, 11:16 AM


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I finally completed the Proj D FD3S model. There are several problems with it (namely the rear light cluster, other little problems with part fitting and I got severe problems with clear coat application - this last one was completely solved).

Here are some photos:

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Cheers

Marco Preto
lance
Posted: Apr 28 2009, 12:50 PM


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wow.. looks amazing O_O
Bladeoz
Posted: May 1 2009, 11:49 PM


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The model looks fantastic, you did a nice clean job I think! Was this out of a Kit box?

Looking at the model though, I remember how weird the body kit is at the back of the front wheel arches.
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marcopreto
Posted: May 2 2009, 12:19 PM


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Thank you for your kind words!

QUOTE
Was this out of a Kit box?


I used Fujimi's Initial D model (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10049243). I didn't detailed it a lot, but both in the interior and exterior I added or changed some parts. Most of those parts are visible on the previous photos of the model. I also used some photo etched parts for the screen wipers and for the hood clamps.

Cheers

Marco Preto

This post has been edited by marcopreto on May 2 2009, 12:24 PM
Möbius
Posted: May 3 2009, 10:27 AM


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QUOTE (marcopreto @ Jan 30 2009, 06:56 AM)
Just the usual stuff you can find on tuturials (clean mold lines and other problems; prime; light sanding and check for problems; correct problems (if any); reprime and light sanding and it's ready for the base color coat).



Why not? Even if its "just paper", scale modeling is just that, to build a scale model (with plastic, metal, whatever). At least that's my oppinion.

Checkout these sites (maybe they'll change your perspective):

http://prototyp.org/model/index.html

http://www.digitalnavy.com/index.html

Cheers

Marco Preto

Thanks for sharing those links, that is some seriously nice stuff. wink2.gif
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Bladeoz
Posted: May 3 2009, 06:12 PM


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Thats pretty sweet you can mod the model like that Marco! Thanks for the link as well biggrin.gif
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MattW
Posted: May 5 2009, 02:39 PM


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Lookin good as always. However, curbside models are fail, haha. Also, you should have found a way to pus the real wheels out a few mm, they look to far sunk into the wheel wells.
cham2020
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 10:49 PM


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This is a build for friend. Fujimi instructions are totally wrong for the dashboard so I found some Autoart AE86 as reference. I manage to find the 'Mahagony' color for the interior too because it's industrial color and shock when I manage to locate it.Completed early last month and passed to him already. Stock OOB car. Cost for building : RM XXX.XX

Enjoy...

Interior + Chassis
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Completed! The masking is done by one shot masking and I didn't bother to trace the fenders circle. Just cut through... Almost perfect for one time try..... tongue.gif

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